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"  OVER  THE   RANGE.1 


OVER  THE  RANGE 


TO 


THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 


A  COMPLETE   TOURIST'S   GUIDE 


COLORADO,   NEW    MEXICO,   UTAH,   NEVADA,   CALIFORNIA, 

OREGON,  PUGET  SOUND  AND  THE 

GREAT   NORTH-WEST. 


By  STANLEY   WOOD. 


Revised  and  Corrected  to  Date,  1895. 


CHICAGO: 

R.  R.  DONNELLEY  &  SONS  CO.,  PUBLISHERS. 

1895. 


COPYRIGHT, 
BY     S.     K.     HOOPER. 

1894. 


R.  R.  Donnelley  &  Sons  Co..  The  Lakeside  Press,  Chicago. 


PREFACE 


|T  is  no  light  undertaking  to  prepare  a  guide-book  which  shall 
adequately  describe  the  places  of  interest  on  the  great  trunk 
lines  between  Denver  on  the  hither  side  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, San  Diego  at  the  southern  extremity  of  California,  and 
Portland,  Seattle  and  Tacoma,  the  three  commercial  entre- 
pots of  the  Great  Northwest.  Yet  such  is  the  undertaking  purposed.  In 
a  work  of  this  character  fact  must  ever  stand  paramount  to  fancy,  and 
lucidity  of  expression  take  the  precedence.  No  attempt  will  be  made  at 
"fine  writing;"  every  effort  will  be  made  to  state  just  such  facts  as  the  traveler 
would  like  to  know,  and  to  state  these  facts  in  clear  and  explicit  language. 
The  country  traversed  is  most  interesting,  abounding  in  scenes  of  the 
greatest  variety,  from  the  broad  and  billowy  expanse  of  the  boundless 
prairie  to  the  rugged  grandeur  of  the  American  Alps,  from  the  picturesque 
quaintness  of  New  Mexico  and  the  nomadic  wildness  of  the  Indian  reser- 
vations to  the  polished  civilization  of  metropolitan  cities.  There  is  no 
journey  which  can  be  taken  on  the  continent  of  North  America  that  pre- 
sents so  much  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  and  which  can  be  taken  with  such  a 
comparatively  moderate  outlay  of  time  and  money,  as  the  one  described 
in  the  following  pages.  New  Mexico,  Colorado,  Nevada,  California, 
Oregon,  Washington  Territory!  What  a  field  for  investigation,  investment 
or  pleasure  !  These  are  the  lands  of  gold,  of  silver,  of  coal,  of  agriculture, 
of  all  fruits  known  to  the  temperate  and  sub-tropical  zones.  These  are  the 
lands  of  new  endeavors,  of  fresh  impulses,  and  for  these  reasons  are  of 
special  interest  to  tourists,  business  men  and  seekers  after  health  and 
pleasure.  Aside  from  the  interesting  character  of  the  subject  discussed, 
there  is  also  a  special  value  in  the  work  now  presented  to  the  reader, 
inasmuch  as  great  care  has  been  taken  to  gather  information  that  shall  be 
found  statistically  accurate.  In  a  work  of  this  character  it  is  difficult  to 
combine  accurate  information  with  matters  of  general  interest  in  such  a 
way  that  neither  shall  have  an  undue  prominence.  The  writer  has 
endeavored  to  attain  this  desirable  medium.  One  thing  is  certain,  nothing 
in  this  book  is  venal  in  its  character.  The  opinions  here  expressed  are 
those  of  the  writer  ;  the  descriptions  of  scenes  given  here  are  reproductions 
of  the  feelings  inspired  by  those  scenes.  There  has  been  no  bias  in  any 
direction.  On  the  contrary,  every  effort  has  been  made  to  write  judicially 
and,  at  the  same  time,  retain  the  enthusiasm  which  the  traveler  naturally 
feels  in  beholding  new  sights  and  scenes. 

In  order  that  no  element  of  information  may  be  lacking,  carefully 
prepared  tables  of  statistics  have  been  given  a  place  in  this  volume,  and 
the  reader  is  respectfully  requested  to  make  use  of  these  tables  because 
much  of  value  has  been  condensed  into  this  convenient  form. 

By  the  aid  of  the  tables  referred  to,  and  by  frequent  reference  to  the 

5 


PREFA  CE.  7 

three  excellent  maps  herein  given,  the  tourist  will  be  able  to  gain  an 
exceptionally  clear  idea  of  the  journey  he  is  making,  and  of  the  character- 
istics of  the  country  through  which  he  is  passing. 

As  another  aid  to  the  traveler  abundant  illustrations  have  been 
prepared,  which  will  give  the  purchaser  of  this  book  an  idea  of  what  he 
may  expect  to  see  ;  and  which,  after  he  has  beheld  these  places,  will  serve 
as  a  reminder  of  those  pleasant  scenes  which  by  their  assistance  can 
never  fade  from  his  memory. 

It  has  been  the  endeavor  of  the  writer  to  meet  as  nearly  as  possible 
thewants  of  all  classes  of  travelers.  Information  of  value  to  the  tourist 
for  pleasure,  the  health  seeker,  the  sportsman  and  the  man  of  business, 
will  be  found  in  the  pages  of  this  book.  Nothing  has  been  written  in  the 
interests  of  any  clique  or  class.  The  truth,  and  nothing  but  the  truth,  has 
been  told.  If  there  are  errors  they  are  such  as  must  necessarily  occur 
in  the  compilation  of  a  work  covering  such  a  vast  extent  of  territory. 
Accuracy  has  been  aimed  at,  and  as  a  whole,  the  writer  can  vouch  for  the 
accuracy  of  what  will  be  found  herein.  The  book  is  one  written  in  the 
field  and  not  in  the  study.  Facts  are  not  taken  at  second  hand.  The 
author  writes  of  what  he  saw  with  his  own  eyes,  and  not  what  he  read. 
The  statistics  have  been  gathered  from  authentic  sources,  and  have  been 
condensed  into  the  most  compact  and  convenient  form.  Hoping  the  book 
may  prove  a  useful  companion  to  the  traveler,  it  is  submitted  without 
further  comment  to  the  public. 


FROM  THE  MISSOURI  RIVER  TO  DENVER. 


HE  Missouri  River  has  become  to  be  regarded,  in  a  general 
way,  as  the  boundary  line  between  the  East  and  the  West, 
although,  in  truth,  the  terms  east  and  west  are  extremely 
elastic  in  their  application.  However,  for  the  purposes  of  this 
book  we  will  consider  that  all  on  the  sundown  side  of  the 
Missouri  River  is  West,  and  that  the  traveler  has  reached  one  of  the  three 
great  entrepots  to  this  vast  country  and  finds  himself  in  Omaha,  St.  Joseph 
or  Kansas  City.  From  either  of  these  thriving  cities  the  journey  to  Denver 
can  be  taken  by  way  of  first  class  transportation  lines  provided  with  all  the 
modern  conveniences  and  luxuries. 

From  Omaha  one  has  choice  of  the  Burlington  Route,  the  Rock  Island 
and  the  Union  Pacific,  and  from  Kansas  City  one  can  travel  by  any  of  the 
above  lines  with  an  additional  choice  between  the  Missouri  Pacific,  or  the  At- 
chison, Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  railroads.  With  Chicago  or  St.  Louis  as  the  initial 
point  one  can  go  direct  by  any  of  the  trunk  lines  to  the  Missouri  River  and 
continue  his  journey  to  Denver  over  his  choice  among  the  routes  mentioned 
above. 

The  trip  across  the  great  plains  from  the  Missouri  River  to  Denver  is 
full  of  interest  and  variety  to  one  who  beholds  this  vast  expanse  for  the  first 
time.  Nothing  can  give  such  a  vivid  impression  of  the  greatness  of  our  coun- 
try, and  the  adventurous  character  of  our  people,  as  the  sight  of  these  bound- 
less prairies  and  the  habitations  of  the  hardy  pioneers  who  are  rapidly  turning 
the  buffalo  sod  and  exposing  the  rich  black  soil  to  the  fertilizing  action  of 
the  sun  and  air,  and  substituting  for  nature's  scant  forage,  abundant  harvests 
of  corn  and  wheat.  The  railroads,  for  a  distance  of  three  or  four  hundred 
miles  to  the  west  of  the  Missouri  River,  pass  through  thriving  cities  to  which 
a  comparatively  thickly  settled  agricultural  country  is  tributary.  Then  the 
newer  territory  is  reached,  the  towns  are  of  less  frequent  occurrence  and 
smaller  in  size,  the  plains  appear  more  nearly  in  their  native  state,  only 
dotted  here  and  there  with  the  claim  cabins  of  the  settlers.  As  the  traveler 
looks  out  of  the  car  window  across  the  billowy  expanse,  he  sees  herds  of 
cattle  and  sheep,  grazing  on  the  rich  bunches  of  buffalo  grass,  and  occasion- 
ally he  will  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  flying  form  of  an  antelope  disappearing 
over  the  brow  of  a  distant  rise  of  land.  Not  uninteresting  are  the  prairie 
dog  villages  with  their  preternaturally  grave  inhabitants  sitting  on  their 
haunches  like  diminutive  kangaroos,  and  the  writer  has  seen  a  whole  car 
load  of  people  filled  with  the  most  pleasurable  excitement  over  the  efforts 
of  a  jack  rabbit  to  outspeed  the  iron  horse.  With  these  and  many  other 
novel  and  interesting  sights  the  time  is  whiled  away  until  some  traveler, 
more  experienced,  or  more  sharp  of  sight,  suddenly  cries  out    "The  Moun- 


"HTT'nT^-3 


;,; 


iiiiiMll^ilttML^ 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  " 

tains!"  There  is  a  rush  to  his  side  of  the  car  and  everybody  gazes 
earnestly,  and  amidst  eager  explanations  and  doubting  comments  the  blue 
of  the  sky  is  at  last  disintegrated  from  the  blue  of  the  mountains,  and  the 
most  skeptical  at  length  acknowledges  that  the  stain  of  ultramarine,  with 
its  undulating  sweep  against  the  western  horizon  is  really  the  distance- 
enchanted  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Soon  patches  of  fleecy  white 
appear,  and  with  a  sigh  of  disappointment  the  traveler  decides  that  the 
clouds  are  dropping  down  and  will  soon  shut  out  the  view  of  those  "senti- 
nels of  enchanted  land,"  but  gazing  more  intently,  it  dawns  upon  the  mind 
at  last  that  those  glimmering  expanses  are  not  veils  of  cloud,  but  are  in  fact 
mountain  fields  of  everlasting  snow  !  The  Snowy  Range  has  at  last  declared 
itself,  and  from  this  moment  until  the  trans-continental  journey  shall  have 
been  accomplished,  the  traveler  will  have  the  immediate  memory  or  the 
intimate  presence  of  the  mountains  with  him  continually. 

The  view  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  the  traveler  gains  on  ap- 
proaching Denver  from  the  east  is  one  of  unsurpassed  beauty,  and  that  this 
statement  may  not  rest  on  the  dictum  of  this  book,  let  us  take  the  testimony 
of  the  greatest  traveler,  and  the  most  graceful  descriptive  writer  America 
has  yet  produced.  Bayard  Taylor  says: — -"I  know  no  external  picture  of 
the  Alps  that  can  be  placed  beside  it.  If  you  take  away  the  valley  of  the 
Rhone,  and  unite  the  Alps  of  Savoy  with  the  Bernese  Overland,  you  might 
obtain  a  tolerable  idea  of  this  view  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Pike's  Peak 
would  then  represent  the  Jungfrau,  a  nameless  snowy  giant  in  front  of  you, 
Monta  Rosa  and  Long's  Peak,  Mount  Blanc.  The  altitudes  very  nearly 
correspond,  and  there  is  a  certain  similarity  in  forms.  The  average  height 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  however,  surpasses  that  of  the  Alps.  *  *  * 
From  this  point  there  appears  to  be  three  tolerably  distinct  ranges.  The 
first  rises  from  two  to  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plains,  is 
cloven  asunder  by  the  canons  of  the  streams,  streaked  with  the  dark  lines  of 
the  pine,  which  feather  its  summits  and  with  sunny,  steep  slopes  of  pasture. 
Some  distance  behind  it  appears  a  second  range,  of  nearly  double  the 
height,  more  irregular  in  its  masses,  and  of  a  dark  velvety  violet  hue.  Be- 
yond, leaning  against  the  sky,  are  the  snowy  peaks,  all  of  which  are  from  thir- 
teen to  (nearly)  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  These  three  chains,  with 
their  varying  but  never  discordant  undulations,  are  as  inspiring  to  the  im- 
agination as  they  are  enchanting  to  the  eye.  They  hint  of  concealed 
grandeurs  in  all  the  glens  and  parks  among  them,  and  yet  hold  you  back 
with  a  doubt,  whether  they  can  be  more  beautiful  near  at  hand  than  when 
beheld  at  this  distance." 

The  doubt  so  gravely  expressed  in  the  last  sentence  of  our  quotation, 
the  traveler,  when  he  shall  have  taken  the  trans-continental  tour,  will  be 
fully  able  to  resolve  for  himself.  He  will  have  beheld  a  bewildering  variety 
of  beauty,  and  in  the  quiet  evenings  at  home,  he  will  find  material  for  the 
most  exquisite  enjoyment  of  pleasing  reminiscence  and  reverie. 

With  such  an  approach,  Denver  must  needs  be  something  more  than 
ordinary  not  to  strike  the  traveler  as  a  discord  in  the  grand  harmony  of  the 
scene.  It  is  a  fact,  and  it  is  a  pleasure  for  the  writer  to  record  it,  that  Den- 
ver is  never  a  disappointment.  What  its  peculiar  charms  may  be,  and  how 
it  appears  to  the  stranger  within  its  gates,  will  be  described  in  the  succeed- 
ing chapter. 


VIEW  OF  PUBLIC   BUILDINGS,    DENVEF 


CITY    HALL. 

ARAPAHOE     COUNTY    COURT-HOUSE 


POST-OFFICE    AND    CUSTOM    HOUSE 
CAPITOL    BUILDING. 

U.    S.     BRANCH    MINT. 


FROM  DENVER  TO  PUEBLO. 


DENVER, 

Capital  of  Colorado. 

Population,  150,000. 
Elevation,  5i«95  feet. 


There  are  only  a  few  cities  in  the  world 
that  please  at  first  sight.  Denver  is  one  of 
this  favored  few.  The  liking  one  gets  for 
Boston,  Philadelphia  or  London  is  an  acquired 
taste,  but  one  falls  in  love  at  once  with  Paris, 
Denver  or  San  Francisco.  It  does  not  follow 
that  because  the  cities  mentioned  are  immedi- 
ately pleasing,  they  must  of  necessity  resemble 
each  other,  any  more  than  that  a  peach,  an 
apple  or  an  orange  should  have  a  similar  flavor.  We  like  the  fruit  and 
we  like  the  cities  without  having  to  learn  to  like  them,  but  not  for  the  same 
reasons.  One  feels  a  sense  of  exhilaration  in  the  atmosphere  of  Denver. 
The  grand  view  of  the  Snowy  Range  of  mountains  to  the  north  and  west 
and  the  broad  expanse  of  horizon-bounded  plains  to  the  east  and  south 
exalt  the  spirits,  the  bland  but  bracing  breezes  cool  the  fevered  pulse  and 
the  abundant  oxygen  of  the  air  thrills  one  like  a  draught  of  effervescing 
champagne.  A  beautiful  city,  beautifully  situated,  is  Denver,  with  broad 
tree-shaded  streets,  along  each  side  of  which  flow  streams  of  sparkling 
water,  necessary  to  the  growth  of  vegetation  in  a  country  where  the  annual 
rainfall  is  less  than  fifteen  inches,  with  public  buildings  of  massive  pro- 
portions and  attractive  architecture,  with  residences  erected  in  accordance 
with  the  canons  of  good  taste,  with  innumerable  lawns  of  shaven  grass, 
ornamented  with  shrubs  and  flowers,  with  charming  suburbs  and  an  out- 
lying country,  studded  with  fertile  farms  and  flowering  or  fruiting  orchards, 
peace  is  within  her  dwellings  and  plenty  within  her  palaces.  Denver  has 
now  nineteen  railroads,  two  extensive  street  railway  systems  operating, 
one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  electric  and  cable  railroads,  reaching  all 
the  various  portions  of  the  city.  Strangers  will  find  that  the  most  conveni- 
ent and  satisfactory  manner  of  viewing  the  city  is  from  the  windows  of  the 
street  cars.  The  town  is  lighted  by  gas  and  electricity,  its  principal  streets 
are  paved  with  asphaltum,  has  paid  fire  and  police  departments,  and 
obtains  its  water  from  mountain  sources  by  means  of  Holly  works,  and 
from  over  300  artesian  wells  varying  in  depth  from  350  to  1,600  feet.  The 
public  buildings,  exclusive  of  churches  and  schools,  cost  $4,771,000.  The 
real  estate  belonging  to  the  city  is  worth  $3,439,207,  the  bonded  debt  is 
$2,223,000  and  the  assessed  valuation  of  Denver  is  $76,856,000.  The  com- 
merce of  Denver  is  now  annually  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  forty 
millions  of  dollars.  Denver  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  Cherry  Creek  and 
the  Platte  River,  and  in  addition  to  being  the  Capital  of  the  State,  is  the 
county  seat  of  Arapahoe  County.  All  the  railroads  which  enter  Denver 
land  their  passengers  at  the  Union  Depot,  a  massive  and  handsome  edifice 
of  native  stone;  originally  built  in  1880,  and  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  Spring 


TO    THE   GOLD  EX  GATE. 


*5 


of  1894,  now  re-erected,  more  beautiful  and  complete  than  before.  Opposite 
the  main  entrance  of  the  Union  Depot,  on  Seventeenth  Street,  and  at  the 
south  end  of  the  building,  on  Sixteenth  Street,  cable  and  electric  car  lines 
diverge  to  all  parts  of  the  city,  passing  the  principal  hotels  and  all  points  of 
interest.  On  the  town-ward  side  of  the .  Union  Depot  are  the  carriage 
stands,  and  if  arrangements  for  transportation  have  not  already  been  made 
on  the  train,  with  the  carriage  company's  agent,  before  reaching  the  city, 
a  carriage  can  be  engaged  here.     Prices  are  regulated  by  ordinance  and 


ARAPAHOE   COUNTY   COURT   HOUSE,   DENVER. 


extortion  prohibited  by  law.  There  are  many  objects  of  interest  to  see  in 
Denver:  The  smelters,  the  public  buildings,  the  Tabor  Grand  Opera  House, 
the  Broadway  Theatre,  Brown  Palace  Hotel, —  probably  the  finest  in  the 
United  States, —  magnificent  business  blocks,  the  system  of  irrigation,  the 
beautiful  private  residences,  the  homes  of  mining  princes  and  cattle 
barons,  the  lovely  suburbs  and  Fort  Logan  the  United  States  .Military  POst. 
The  hotel  accommodations  of  Denver  are  probably  the  most  complete  of 
any  city  of  its  population  in  the  country.  There  are  ten  first-class  hotels 
provided  with  all  modern  improvements,  to  say  nothing  of  some  sixty  odd 
less  pretentious  ones.  A  day,  or  better  two  days,  can  be  profitably  spent 
in  Denver,  and  then,  refreshed  and  rested  from  the  long  ride  across  the 


i6 


OVER    THE   RAXGE. 


plains  from  the  Missouri  River  or  beyond,  the  tourist  is  ready  to  resume 
his  trans-continental  journey.  If  he  wishes  to  behold  the  wonders  of 
nature  and  to  get  a  familiar  acquaintance  with  the  grandeur  of  the  moun- 
tains, he  will  take  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  which  by  universal 
acclaim  has  been  designated  "  The  Scenic  Line  of  the  World." 

Seated  in  a  comfortable  car,  whose  large  windows  give  an  excellent 
outlook  on  the  scenery,  the  traveler  is  ready  and  anxious  to  be  off.  The 
busy  Union  Depot  may  amuse  him  for  a  moment,  but  anticipation  of  the 
wonders  in  store  makes  him  impatient  of  delay.  Soon  the  conductor  gives 
the  signal  to  the  engineer,  the  inevitable  late  passenger  is  seen  chasing  the 
rear  end  of  the  Pullman  out  of  the  depot,  and  whether  he  catches  it  or  not, 
one  thing  is  assured,  the  journey  to  the  Pacific  Coast  has  begun,  and  from 
this  time  on  the  eye  and  mind  will  both  find  plenty  to  do  in  noting  and 
recording  Nature's  most  marvelous  works.     The  first  stop  is  made  at 


4&iSliMffilffi 


J  »  IS  M  § :  "i  __     LWti  FT.eil  EJHgj-jffl  li|^j ., 


COLORADO'S    STATE   CAPITOL    BUILDING,   DENVER. 


Burnham.  The  station  for  the  suburb  of  West  Denver  and  the  site 
of  the  great  shops  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  buildings 
of  the  machine  shops  cover  an  area  of  five  acres  and  were  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $300,000.     (Distance  from  Denver,  2  miles.) 

Overland  Park  is  a  pleasant  suburb  to  the  southwest  of  Denver, 
and  is  supplied  with  one  of  the  best  race-courses  in  the  west.  It  is  a 
fashionable  resort  and  connected  with  Denver  by  the  suburban  train  ser- 
vice of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 

Petersburg-  is  a  small  town  surrounded  by  farms,  market  gardens 
and  plats  laid  out  as  additions  to  Denver.  (Distance  from  Denver,  8  miles.) 
To  the  west,  2}4  miles  distant,  lies  P'ort  Logan,  the  United  States  Military 
Post. 


TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE.  17 

Fort  Logan.  A  regimental  post  of  United  States  troops  has  been 
here  established,  and  has  become  the  centre  of  great  interest.  The  quar- 
ters are  elegant  and  substantial,  consisting  of  handsome  brick  edifices. 
The  parade  ground  is  ample  in  proportions,  and  no  expense  has  been 
spared  to  make  this  Post  a  model  of  its  kind.  The  military  band  gives 
frequent  concerts,  and  the  citizens  of  Denver  take  great  interest  in  and 
make  frequent  excursions  to  the  Post.  The  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Rail- 
road has  established  a  very  complete  suburban  train  service  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  Post,  and  the  public,  which  is  largely  patronized. 

Littleton  is  prettily  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Platte  River,  is 
the  centre  of  a  good  agricultural  country,  and  is  destined  to  be  the  location 
of  the  suburban  residences  of  many  of  Denver's  best  citizens.  Already  an 
adequate  suburban  train  service  has  been  inaugurated  for  the  convenience 
of  persons  having  country  homes  at  this  delightful  spot.  (Population,  1,200. 
Distance  from  Denver,  10  miles.     Elevation,  5,372  feet.) 

Wolliurst.  Four  miles  beyond  Littleton,  the  summer  home  of  United 
States  Senator  Wolcott. 

Aceqilia.  A  small  station  for  the  accommodation  of  ranchmen. 
Here  the  High  Line  Canal,  one  of  those  great  irrigating  ditches  character- 
istic of  Colorado,  crosses  the  track  and  takes  its  winding  way  to  the  north- 
east over  the  rolling  plains,  having  under  its  fertilizing  power  at  least  a 
hundred  thousand  acres  of  otherwise  arid  land.  (Population  nominal. 
Distance  from  Denver,  17  miles.     Elevation  5,530  feet.) 

Sedalia.  A  little  village.  Home  market  and  post  office  for  cattle 
growers  and  ranchmen.  (Population  200.  Distance  from  Denver,  25  miles. 
Elevation,  5,835  feet.) 

Castle  Rock.  The  town  takes  its  name  from  a  peculiar  upthrust 
of  rock  on  the  summit  of  a  conical  hill,  resembling,  in  the  distance,  an  old 
martelle  tower,  and  nearer  by  an  irregular  pentagonal  structure.  Under 
the  shadow  of  this  hill  and  surmounting  tower  lies  the  town,  which  is  a 
pretty  village  and  the  county  seat  of  Douglas  County.  Fine  quarries  of  red 
sandstone  are  worked  here,  and  pastoral  industries  contribute  to  the  pros- 
perity of  the  town.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from  Denver,  33  miles 
Elevation,  6,219  feet.) 

Douglas.     A  station  near  which  are  stone  quarries  and  grazing  lands. 
(Population,  nominal.  Distance  from  Denver,  35  miles.  Elevation,  6,323  feet.) 
Between  Douglas  and  Palmer   Lake  are  the  small  stations  of  Glade, 
Larkspur  and  Greeland. 

Perry  Park  is  reached  by  stage  from  Larkspur  station.  This  park 
abounds  in  curious  formations  of  red  sandstone;  is  watered  by  sparkling 
brooks  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  near  Denver. 

As  the  train  rolls  into  the  station  the 
traveler  sees  to  his  left  a  beautiful  little  lake 
cradled  in  the  hills.  Along  the  shore  has  been  . 
placed  a  handsome  cut  stone  embankment,  and 
a  neat  and  tasteful  boat  house  has  been  erected 
and  well  stocked  with  boats.  The  lake  is  a 
natural  body  of  water,  though  the  fact  that  a 
fountain  plays  in  its  centre,  casting  a  jet  of 
water  to  the  height  of  80  feet,  leads  many  to 


PALMER    LAKE. 

Health    and    Pleasure 

Resort. 

Population,  150. 

Distance  from   Denver. 

52  miles. 

Elevation,  7,237  feet. 

Eating  Station. 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  19 

suppose  that  it  is  entirely  artificial.  Palmer  Lake  in  addition  to  being  a 
place  of  great  beauty,  is  a  natural  curiosity,  poised  as  it  is,  exactly  on  the 
summit  of  the  "divide,"  a  spur  of  the  outlying  range  of  the  Rockies  extend- 
ing eastward  into  the  great  plains  and  from  the  crest  of  this  summit  the 
waters  divide  flowing  northward  into  the  Platte,  which  empties  into  the 
Missouri,  and  southward  into  the  Arkansas  as  it  wends  its  way  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi. Red  roofed  picturesque  cottages  nestle  here  and  there  among  the 
hills,  gayly  painted  boats  float  gracefully  upon  the  bright  blue  waters,  and 
on  either  hand  rugged  peaks,  pine  clad  and  broken  by  castellated  rocks, 
rise  into  a  sky  whose  cerulean  hue  is  reflected  in  the  placid  waters  of  the 
lake.  Excellent  hotel  and  livery  establishments  furnish  good  accommoda- 
tions for  sojourners. 

Glen  Park,  an  assembly  ground  modeled  after  the  famous  Chautau- 
qua, and  destined  to  become  equally  as  popular  in  the  West  as  its  prototype 
in  the  East,  is  only  half  a  mile  beyond  Palmer  Lake.  Objects  of  natural 
interest  are  abundant  and  the  walks  and  drives  to  Glen  D'Eau,  Bellview 
Point,  Ben  Lomond,  the  Arched  Rocks  and  the  canons  and  glens  adjacent 
afford  material  for  enjoyment  in  the  seeing  and  for  many  pleasant  memories. 
One  hundred  and  fifty  acres  are  comprised  in  the  town  site.  The  Park  is  at 
the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Range,  and  is  sheltered  at  the  rear  by  a 
towering  cliff  2,000  feet  high,  and  on  the  two  sides  by  small  spurs  of  the  range. 
A  noble  growth  of  large  pines  is  scattered  over  the  Park.  A  skillful  landscape 
engineer  has  taken  advantage  of  every  natural  beauty  and  studied  the  best 
topographical  effect,  in  laying  out  the  streets,  parks,  reservoirs,  drives,  walks, 
trails  and  lookout  points.  It  is  a  spot  that  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated,  and 
every  visitor,  whose  opinion  has  been  learned,  has  come  away  captivated. 
There  are  building  sites  for  all  tastes.  Some  have  a  grand  lookout,  taking  in 
a  sweep  of  the  valley  for  a  distance  of  50  miles,  with  the  fountain  in  Palmer 
Lake  and  the  beautiful  lake  itself  in  view.  Elephant  Rock,  Table  Moun- 
tain, the  town  of  Monument,  the  railroad  trains  from  both  ways  for  over  an 
hour  before  reaching  the  station  can  be  seen.  Others  have  pretty  vistas, 
partly  hidden  by  the  pine  branches,  promises,  so  to  speak  of  grand  views, 
but  not  so  ambitious  as  the  first.  Still  others  are  sylvan  nooks  where  the 
shades  are  deepest  and  the  murmur  of  the  cool  waters  of  the  babbling 
brooks  makes  music  forever. 

Monument.  The  five  miles  ride  from  Palmer  Lake  to  Monument 
is  interesting.  On  the  left  are  giant  upthrusts  of  brilliant  red  rocks  castel- 
ated  in  shape  and  reaching  an  altitude  of  two  and  three  hundred  feet.  The 
town  takes  its  name  from  the  creek  which  flows  near,  and  the  creek  is  so 
designated  from  the  curious  monumental  forms  of  rock  along  its  course. 
To  the  right  is  the  Front  Range  of  the  Rockies,  which  the  road  parallels 
from  Denver  to  Pueblo,  and  near  the  centre  of  this  stretch  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  miles,  stands  Pike's  Peak.  Agriculture  and  pastoral  industries 
are  tributary  to  Monument.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from  Denver,  56 
niiles.     Elevation,  6,974  feet.) 

Two  miles  beyond  is  Borst,  and  four  miles  further  Uusted,  both  mere 
side  tracks  for  convenient  shipping  of  cattle  and  produce. 

Monument  Park  is  reached  by  private  conveyance  from  Edgerton 
Station — distance  from  Denver,  67  miles.  This  valley  is  quite  remarkable 
for  the  verv  fantastic  forms  into  which  the  action  of  air  and  water  through 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


21 


Colorado   Springs. 

Residence  City  and 
Health  Resort. 

Population,  15,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
75  niles. 

Elevation,  5,005  feet. 


long  reaches  of  time,  have  worn  the  sandstone  rocks,  forming  grotesque 
groups  of  figures  that  very  generally  keep  their  broad  brimmed  sombreros, 
formed  of  iron  stained  cap-rock.  Visitors  to  Monument  Park  obtain  a  fine 
view  of  Pike's  Peak  and  Cheyenne  Mountain  Range.  A  hotel  in  the  Park 
is  open  at  all  times  for  the  accommodation  of  guests,  and  can  furnish  saddle- 
horses  and  carriages  on  premises.  The  grotesque  group  of  figures  into 
which  the  cream-colored  sandstone  rocks  have  been  worn,  some  of  them  re- 
sembling human  forms  have  been  given  quaint,  descriptive  titles,  viz.: 
Dutch  Wedding,  Quaker  Meeting,  Lone  Sentinel,  Dutch  Parliament,  Vul- 
can's Anvil  and  Workshop,  Romeo  and  Juliet,  Necropolis  or  Silent  City, 
The  Duchess,  Mother  Judy  and  Colonnade;  all  of  these  and  many  others  too 
numerous  to  mention  are  within  easy  walking  distance  to  "  The  Pines." 
The  Park  is  a  favorite  resort  and  has  comfortable  accommodations  for 
guests.  (Population  nominal.  Distance  from 
Denver,  67  miles.     Elevation,  6,354  feet.) 

Many  of  the  most  influential  business  men 
of  Colorado  have  their  residence  in  Colorado 
Springs.  No  more  delightful  home  city  can  be 
found  than  this.  Mansions  and  cottages  of  the 
highest  architectural  beauty  abound,  and  the 
society  js  composed  of  cultivated  and  wealthy 
people. 

The  town  was  originally  laid  out  as  a  health 
resort,  and  while  it  still  maintains  its  superiority  in  this  respect,  has  grown 
beyond  that  single  characteristic,  and  is  now  a  thriving  commercial  place, 
in  addition  to  being  a  favorite  residence 
city.  The  town  is  sheltered  on  the  west 
by  the  range  of  mountains  with  Pike's 
Peak  in  the  centre,  on  the  east  by  bluffs, 
on  the  north  by  the  spur  of  the  mountains 
called  the  "Divide,"  and  on  the  south- 
west by  Cheyenne  Mountain.  The  streets 
are  unusually  wide,  one  hundred  feet, 
and  the  avenues  are  160  feet  broad. 
Trees  line  both  sides  of  the  streets,  and 
on  Nevada  avenue,  the  central  street  of 
the  city,  there  are  six  rows-of  trees,  two 
on  each  side  and  two  down  the  centre. 
Water  for  irrigation  is  brought  into  the 
town  by  means  of  a  winding  canal,  and 
cold,  clear  water,  for  domestic  uses,  is 
conducted  from  mountain  sources  in  iron 
pipes.  The  pressure  is  such  that  no 
fire  engines  are  necessary,  the  water 
being  forced  from  hydrants  to  the  tops  of 
the  tallest  buildings.  Monument  Creek 
flows  west  of  the  town,  and  the  Fontaine 
qui  Bouille  to  the  south,  where  the  two 
streams  form  a  junction.  The  scenery 
around  Colorado  Springs  is  of  a  very  in- 


TO   THE  GOLD  EX  GATE.  2^ 

teresting  and  attractive  character.  The  hotels  of  Colorado  Springs  are 
noted  for  their  excellence;  special  attention  being  paid  to  the  entertainment 
of  tourists.  There  are  ample  accommodations  and  of  different  grades  to 
suit  all  tastes  and  pockets.  The  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  has  a 
very  handsome  stone  depot,  erected  in  accordance  with  good  taste  and 
correct  architecture.  The  plains  to  the  east  and  the  mountains  to  the  west 
give  unlimited  variety.  Cheyenne  Canon,  Austin's  Bluffs,  Crystal  Park, 
Cameron's  Cone,  Monument  Park  and  Manitou,  with  its  environs,  are  all 
within  the  radius  of  nine  miles. 

Cheyenne  Mountain.  It  is  impossible  to  contemplate  the  grandeur 
of  Cheyenne's  bold  outlines  and  great  massiveness,  and  to  become  in  the  least 
familiar  with  its  ever-varying  play  of  light  and  shadow,  without  acknow- 
ledging the  striking  beauty  of  this  noble  mountain.  From  Colorado  Springs, 
a  superb  view  of  its  front  is  seen.  Looking  at  the  mountain  it  will  be  ob- 
served that  at  almost  the  nearest  point,  in  reality  four  miles  distant,  the  base 
of  the  mountain  is  deeply  cleft  by  two  yawning  chasms,  the  outer  rocks  of 
which  present  sharp,  jagged  points.  These  clefts  are,  respectively,  the 
North  and  South  Cheyenne  Canons.  They  certainly  should  be  visited  by 
every  traveler  who  has  an  eye  for  the  beautiful.  On  the  eastern  side  of 
Cheyenne  Mountain,  and  accessible  from  South  Cheyenne  Canon,  is  the 
grave  of  the  well-known  auther  and  poet,  "  H.  H."  The  direct  road  from 
Manitou  takes  the  tourist  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  turns  off  to  the  southward 
from  the  road  to  Colorado  Springs,  on  the  top  of  the  hill  half  a  mile  from 
the  town;  they  can  also  be  reached  by  making  a  detour  of  one  and  a  half 
miles  through  Colorado  Springs,  and  following  the  continuation  of  Nevada 
avenue  to  the  southward.  Either  road  is  pleasant,  and  the  drive  or  ride  is 
one  replete  with  interest,  and  abounding  in  attractive  scenery.  An  electric 
car  line  runs  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  from  Colorado  Springs. 

Broadmoor.  Nestling  under  the  shadow  of  Cheyenne  Mountain  lies 
the  famous  Broadmoor  resort.  Connected  with  Colorado  Springs  and  Mani- 
tou by  an  electric  railway,  and  therefore  easy  of  access  from  either  of  these 
places,  this  beautiful  spot,  with  its  fine  casino,  lake,  drives,  etc.,  is  one  of 
the  many  attractions  surrounding  the  Western  Spa. 

Colorado  City.  This  town,  once  the  seat  of  the  state  capital,  is  two 
miles  west  of  Colorado  Springs,  on  the  Manitou  branch  of  the  Denver  & 
Rio  Grande  Railroad.  Located  in  this  thriving  little  town  are  extensive 
railroad  repair  shops,  glass  works,  where  the  bottles  for  the  famous  Mani- 
tou Water  are  made,  and  several  large  manufactories,  making  it  one  of  the 
principal  cities  of  the  state.  (Population,  1,800.  Distance  from  Denver, 
78   miles.      Elevation,   6,110   feet.) 

The  one  resort  of  all  the  West  is  certainly 
Manitou.  The  attractions  of  this  watering  place 
have  secured  for  it  fame,  and  fame  secures  for 
it  largely  increasing  patronage  each  year.  No 
resort  has  had  a  more  rapid  growth  than  this, 
and  none  has  more  truly  deserved  its  pros- 
perity. There  are  more  places  of  extraordinary 
interest  to  visit  in  the  vicinity  of  Manitou  than 
can  be  found  contiguous  to  any  other  resort  in 
the  world.  It  is  situated  six  miles  from  Colorado 


MANITOU. 

Watering  Place, 

flineral  Springs  and 

Health  Resort. 

Population,  1,800. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

Si  miles. 
Elevation,  6,324  feet. 


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TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


25 


Springs,  immediately  at 
the  foot  of  Pike's  Peak. 
Here  are  the  famous 
effervescent  soda  and 
iron  springs  which  in  an 
early  day  gave  the  name 
of  "Springs"  to  the  town 
of  Colorado  Springs.  A 
branch  of  the  Denver 
&  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
unites  the  two  places, 
over  which  trains  run 
daily  with  sufficient  fre- 
quency to  accommodate 
the  most  exacting.  There 
are  a  thousand  ways  in 
which  to  enjoy  oneself 
in  Manitou.  A  favorite 
pleasure  is  that  of  riding. 
The  saddle  horses  are 
excellent.  Comfortable 
saddles  for  ladies  and 
well  trained  horses  are 
furnished  by  all  the  liv- 
ery stables  at  reasonable 
prices.  A  burro  (donkey) 
brigade  is  a  feature  for 
the  special  benefit  of  the 
children,  a  careful  guide 
taking  the  little  ones  for 
a  ride  every  morning. 
Carriage  riding  and  ex- 
cursions on  foot  are 
excellent  means  of  diver- 
sion. Following  is  a 
partial  list  of  places  of 
interest  near  Manitou 
with  the  distance  in  miles 
from  town  attached: 


THE    SEVEN 


ENNE    CANON. 


Manitou  Grand  Caverns 2 

Cave  of  the  Winds 1 

Ute  Pass  and  Rainbow  Falls \y2 

Red  Canon 3 

Crystal    Park 3 

Garden  of  the  Gods 3 

Glen  Eyrie 5 

Summit  of  Pikes,  by  rail 9 

"         "        "       "   trail 13 

Seven  Lakes,  by  horse  trail 9 

"       by  carriage  road 25 

North  Cheyenne  Canon 8^ 

South  Cheyenne  Canon.-- g 

Broadmoor  Casino  by  electric  railway 7 


,,:< 

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t*  «•/.' 


PIKE'S 

PEAK. 

Colorado  s 

Landmark. 

Elevation, 

•4.«47 

feet. 

TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE.  27 

In  addition  to  these  well-known  localities  there  are  scores  of  canons, 
caves,  water-falls  and  charming  nooks  which  the  sojourner  for  health  or 
pleasure  can  seek  out  for  himself.  The  village  is  thronged  with  visitors 
throughout  the  summer  months  ;  it  is  somewhat  cooler  and  less  dry  than 
Colorado  Springs  in  the  summer,  and  warmer  in  winter.  The  springs  all 
contain  more  or  less  soda  and  some  iron.  They  are  peculiarly  adapted  for 
the  dyspepsia  of  the  consumptive,  and  the  Ute  Iron  Spring  is  especially 
remarkable  for  its  blood-making  qualities.  For  the  pleasure-seeker  and 
the  invalid,  Manitou  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  resorts  in  the  State. 
During  the  season  the  hotels  are  rilled  with  guests  from  all  parts  of  the 
Union.  Society  is  represented  by  many  of  its  best  people,  the  evenings 
are  made  merry  with  hops  and  social  gatherings,  and  the  days  delightful 
with  drives  r.nd  rides  and  walks  among  the  myriad  of  attractions  this  place 
affords. 

Before  Colorado  had  acquired  a  name, 
Pike's  Peak  was  the  landmark  of  the  Indian, 
the  trapper  and  the  explorer.  In  later  times  it 
was  the  beacon  by  which  the  adventurous  gold 
hunters  steered  their  prairie  schooners  into  the 
wonderful  and  mysterious  west ;  now  it  has  be- 
come the  goal  of  those  in  search  of  the  grand 
and  beautiful  in  Nature,  the  enjoyments  of  an 
attractive  summer  resort,  or  the  restoration  of 
impaired  health.  The  mountain  is  one  of  great  beauty,  and  never  entirely 
discrowned  of  snow.  The  Cog  Wheel  Railroad  to  the  summit  of  Pike's 
Peak  is  the  most  novel  railway  in  the  world.  When  it  reaches  its  objective 
point  above  the  clouds,  at  a  height  of  14,147  feet  above  sea-level,  it  renders 
almost  insignificant,  by  comparison,  the  famous  cogway  up  Mt.  Washing- 
ton and  the  incline  railway  up  the  Rhigi  in  Switzerland.  From  its  station  in 
Manitou,  just  above  the  Iron  Springs,  to  the  station  on  the  summit  of  Pike's 
Peak,  the  Manitou  &  Pike's  Peak  Railway  is  just  eight  and  three-quarter 
miles  in  length.  The  cost  of  construction  of  the  road  was  a  half  million  of 
dollars.  While  it  could  have  been  built  for  many  thousands  of  dollars  less 
by  putting  in  wooden  bridges  and  trestles,  light  ties  and  light  rails,  those  in 
charge  of  the  building  of  the  road  would  not  consent  to  the  use  of  any 
flimsy  material  for  the  sake  of  the  saving  of  any  sum  of  money  —  a  substan- 
tial road  that  would  insure  absolute  safety  being  economical,  as  well  as  a 
guarantee  for  putting  the  road  from  the  start  on  a  paying  basis.  The  rail- 
road closely  follows  Ruxton  Creek,  generally  at  an  elevation  of  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  above  it ;  the  sides  of  the  Glen  are  clothed  with  beautiful 
pines  and  spruces.  Some  very  pretty  falls  are  passed  on  the  way,  two  of 
which  are  named  respectively,  the  Shelter  and  the  Minnehaha.  Stupendous 
granite  boulders  are  in  places  piled  up  in  chaotic  confusion  over  the  stream, 
frequently  hiding  it  from  view.  Two  prominent  ones  are  plainly  visible 
from  Manitou,  and  are  appropriately  named  Gog  and  Magog.  One  of  the 
most  charming  features  during  the  ascent  is  the  opportunity  afforded  for 
exquisite  views  of  the  world  below,  on  looking  back  through  the  pine  trees 
with  the  far-stretching  plains  glowing  in  the  sun  and  forming  a  golden 
horizon.  It  goes  without  saying  that  the  view  from  the  summit  is  grand 
beyond   description.     To   any  one   accustomed  to  mountain   climbing   no 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  29 

guide  is  required  in  making  the  ascent  of  Pike's  Peak,  as  the  trail  is  good 
and  well-defined,  and  there  is  a  station  on  the  summit,  where  visitors  can 
obtain  food  and  shelter. 

Fountain.  A  pretty  little  town  on  the  Fontaine  qui  Bouille  Creek, 
fourteen  miles  south  of  Colorado  Springs.  The  town  has  taken  a  new 
growth  within  the  past  year,  and  being  surrounded  by  a  good  grazing  and 
agricultural  country,  has  a  fair  prospect  of  permanent  improvement.  (Pop- 
ulation 200.     Distance  from  Denver,  88  miles.     Elevation,  5,568  feet.) 

There  are  between  Fountain  and  Pueblo,  side-track  stations  as  follows: 
Buttes,  Wigwam,  Pinon,  Eden  and  Dundee.  These  places  are  useful  to  the 
railroad  and  convenient  for  the  residents  of  the  surrounding  country,  but 
they  possess  little  or  no  interest  for  the  traveler.  All  the  way  from  Denver 
to  Pueblo  the  traveler  has  the  Front  Range  of  mountains  on  his  right,  to 
the  west,  while  on  his  left  are  the  great  plains.  Below  Colorado  Springs 
the  country  is  very  fertile,  and  good  crops  are  grown  wherever  water  for 
irrigation  can  be  procured. 

"The  Pittsburgh  of  the  West"  is  a  title 
often  conferred  on  Pueblo,  and  it  is  the  name 
which  pleases  its  citizens  best,  and  which  comes 
the  nearest  to  expressing  the  salient  character- 
istics of  the  town.  It  is  a  live  city,  full  of  enter- 
prise and  push,  and  it  has  been  favored  by 
Nature,  both  in  the  matter  of  its  immediate 
situation  and  of  its  surroundings.  Plenty  of  coal 
is  found  not  fifty  miles  away,  iron  ore  is  not 
more  distant,  and  on  the  mesa,  just  south  of  the 
town,  is  Bessemer,  the  site  of  the  Colorado  Fuel  and  Iron  Works,  one  of  the 
largest  plants  of  this  character  in  the  world.  There  are  also  many  great 
smelters  for  the  reduction  of  gold  and  silver  ores,  together  with  a  large 
number  of  manufactories,  planing  mills,  flouring  mills,  machine  shops,  etc. 
The  city  of  Pueblo  is  surrounded  by  great  stretches  of  rich  agricultural 
land,  which  in  places  here  and  there  is  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 
But  it  is  only  here  and  there  that  cultivation  shows  its  elevating  work. 
Tourists  wonder  at  this,  and  cannot  divine  why,  if  the  land  is  rich,  it  should 
lie  fallow  and  uncultivated.  The  answer  is  easy  to  find.  All  this  land  is 
arid.  Crops  will  not  grow  without  water,  and  the  rains  of  heaven  are  not 
half  copious  enough  to  promote  the  growth  of  vegetation.  Where  the  land  is 
watered  by  irrigation  it  is  as  fertile  as  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  where  it  is  not 
irrigated  it  is  nearly  as  sterile  as  the  desert  of  Sahara.  This  condition  of 
affairs  will  not  long  remain.  Storage  reservoirs  to  conserve  the  winter  and 
spring  rainfall  and  snow  deposits  are  in  contemplation,  also  a  series  of  great 
canals  to  be  taken  from  the  Arkansas  river  to  carry  the  water  on  to  the 
waiting  land.  In  the  meantime  this  uncultivated  country,  which  appears 
so  barren,  supports  tens  of  thousands  of  sheep  and  cattle.  The  short,  dry 
crisp,  curled  buffalo  grass,  which  looks  about  as  succulent  as  shavings, 
actually  contains  great  nutritive  qualities,  and  if  cattle  or  sheep  can  get 
enough  of  it  they  grow  fat  and  command  the  highest  price  in  the  markets. 
Pastoral  and  agricultural  interests  contribute  to  Pueblo's  prosperity,  (wq 
trunk  lines  of  railroad  centre  here,  and  manufactories  increase  the  business 
of  the  town.     Many  people  of  great  wealth  make   Pueblo  their  home  and 


PUEBLO, 

Commercial  and 

Manufacturing  City. 

Population,  35,000. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
120   miles. 

Elevation,  4,667  feet. 
Dining  Station. 


TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


3i 


do  business  here.  Handsome  mansions,  pretty  cottages,  large  business 
blocks,  and  line  stocks  of  all  kinds  of  merchandise  testify  to  the  good  taste 
and  enterprise  of  Pueblo's  citizens.  It  is  admitted  on  all  sides  that  this 
must  of  necessity  become  the  leading  manufacturing  town  between  the 
Missouri  river  and  the  Pacific  coast,  and  the  manufacturers  in  the  East 
who  contemplate  extending  or  removing  their  works,  are  now  carefully 
studying  the  resources  of  Pueblo.  Pueblo  is  well  provided  with  hotels,  one 
of  them  representing  an  expense  of  $250,000  in  its  erection.  All  grades  of 
excellence  can  be  found  among  the  hostelfies,  and  the  traveler  will  find  no 
difficulty  in  securing  accommodations  suited  to  his  tastes.  Through  Pueblo, 
the  traveler  passes  to  reach  Santa  Fe,  Espanola,  Durango  and  Silvertoh  on 
the  south.  Canon  City,  Salida,. Leadville,  Glenwood  Springs,  Aspen,  Grand 
Junction,  Salt  Lake  City,  and  Ogden  on  west  enroute  to  San  Francisco; 
and  Gunnison,  Montrose  and  Ouray,  via  the  narrow  gauge  line  over  Mar- 
shall Pass. 

Parnassus  Spring's.  A  pleasant  drive  of  twelve  miles,  southwest 
of  Pueblo,  takes  us  to  Parnassus  Springs,  among  the  foot  hills  of  the  Green- 
horn Mountains.  These  waters — muriated  alkaline — have  been  tested  with 
marked  benefit,  especially  in  cases  characterized  as  gastric  complaints. 

Carlile  Spring's  are  situated  twenty  miles  above  Pueblo,  on  the 
Arkansas  river.  These  purgative  alkaline  waters  are  as  yet  unimproved, 
but  give  good  promise  of  becoming  popular  on  account  of  their  medicinal 
qualities. 

Clark's  Magnetic  Mineral  Spring.  This  celebrated  spring  in 
the  suburbs  of  Pueblo,  has  recently  been  improved  by  the  erection  of  a 
large  bath  house,  fitted  up  with  all  the  latest  improvements  and  con- 
veniences for  bathing. 


M(<     ^ 


PUEBLO  TO  OGDEN. 


P  ROM  Denver  to  Pueblo,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles,    the  traveler  has   followed   the    Front   Range  of  the 


Rocky  Mountains  and  kept  his  course  mainly  to  the  south. 
At  Pueblo,  however,  he  turns  his  face  westward,  and  this  will 
be  his  outlook,  in  the  main,  until  he  finds  himself  standing  on 
the  shore  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  watching  the  descent  of  the  sun  into  the 
wilderness  of  waters.  The  country  between  Pueblo  and  Florence  is  fine 
agricultural  land,  being  the  bottoms  of  the  Arkansas  River,  up  whose 
course  the  railroad  follows  until  Salida  is  reached,  ninety-seven  miles  from 
Pueblo.  Back  from  the  river  rise  high  buttes  of  sandstone  worn  into  fan- 
tastic shapes  by  the  action  of  the  elements.  Banded  with  a  great  variety  of 
colors  and  dotted  here  and  there  by  groups  of  pines,  the  scene  is  one  of 
much  interest  and  adds  an  element  of  variety  to  the  journey,  which  is  ex- 
ceedingly grateful  to  the  traveler.  The  river  bottoms  are  irrigated  by 
means  of  ditches  taken  from  the  river,  and  the  result  is  crops  of  marvelous 
growth  and  yield.  One  interesting  and  peculiar  feature  is  the  frequent 
occurrence  of  the  ancient  Egyptian  water  wheels  suspended  in  the  current 
of  the  Arkansas.  This  method  of  securing  water  for  irrigation  is  rarely  ob- 
served in  Colorado.  This  valley  of  the  Arkansas  is  also  a  good  fruit 
country,  and  grapes  and  apples  grow  in  abundance  and  of  fine  quality. 

Florence.  This  town  is  in  the  centre  of  the  coal  oil  fields  of  Colorado. 
Glancing  from  the  car  window  the  traveler  will  here  see  the  tall  derricks  of 
the  well  machinery  and  the  tanks  for  storing,  together  with  the  tank  cars  for 
transporting  the  oil.  There  are  between  fifty  and  sixty  wells  already  in 
operation  and  more  are  being  sunk.  The  oil  is  used  for  lubrication  and 
fuel,  and  gives  the  best  of  satisfaction.  Florence  is  the  junction  point 
of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  and  the  Florence  &  Cripple  Creek  Rail- 
roads ;  the  latter  line  having  been  completed  and  opened  for  business  to 
Colorado's  famous  Gold  Camp — Cripple  Creek — on  July  4th,  1894.  This 
new  railroad  has  made  this  bustling  little  city  one  of  the  foremost  in  the 
state.  (Population,  2,000.  Distance  from  Denver,  152  miles.  Elevation, 
5,199  feet.) 

The  Florence  and  Cripple  Creek  Railroad.  This  railroad, 
forty  miles  in  length,  has  been  but  recently  built  for  the  purpose  of  open- 
ing up  to  commerce  the  vastly  rich  gold  fields  of  Cripple  Creek  and 
vicinity.  The  principal  points  on  the  line  are  Arequa,  Anaconda,  Victor 
and  Cripple  Creek  itself,  all  of  which  are  heavy  shippers  of  rich  gold  ores. 
The  scenery  on  this  line  from  beginning  to  end,  is  of  a  most  beautiful  char- 
acter, canons  and  gorges,  mountain  peaks  and  passes,  valleys  and  vales- 
combined  in  a  panorama  of  startling  loveliness. 

32 


TO    THE   GOLD  EX  GATE.  33 

The  town  of  Cripple  Creek  has  advanced 


CRIPPLE    CREEK. 

Great  Gold  Hining 

Town. 

Population,  5,000. 

Elevation,  9,400   feet. 

Distance  from  Denver,  193 
fliles. 


with  the  prosperity  of  the  mining  district  of 
which  it  is  the  centre.  From  a  camp  of  a  few 
wooden  shanties  and  tents,  a  few  years  ago,  it 
has  risen  to  a  well-built,  well-defined  mining 
town.  .  Brick  buildings  are  being  erected  in  the 
business  centre  and  dwellings  of  a  permanent 
character  are  dotting  the  slopes  around  the 
town.  There  is  a  stability  about  it  which  is 
most  encouraging.  The  hotel  accommodations 
are  first-class,  considering  the  age  of  the  town.  The  population  is  about 
5.000.  There  is  an  excellent  .water  service,  the  supply  being  piped  from 
the  mountains  above,  and  the  town  is  peaceably  and  well  governed.  The 
advent  of  the  railroads,  the  great  attention  being  paid  to  gold  mining  and 
the  immense  quantities  of  ore  that  are  being  uncovered  in  the  mining 
district,  all  go  to  show  that  Cripple  Creek  is  but  entering  upon  an  era  of 
great  prosperity. 

The  Cripple  Creek  Gold  Mini  tig  District  is  situated  near 
the  western  base  of  Pike's  Peak  at  an  elevation  of  9,400  feet.  It  consists  of 
rolling  hills,  sparsely  wooded,  and  small  valleys  and  gulches.  Lying  a 
little  south  of  west  from  Colorado  Springs  at  a  distance  of  about  twenty 
miles  in  an  air  line,  seventy  miles  from  Denver  and  forty-four  miles  from 
Pueblo,  down  to  1891  it  was  to  all  intents  and  purposes  exclusively  a 
pastoral  district.  It  is  true  that  for  many  years  past,  in  fact  ever  since 
1859,  prospectors  have,  from  time  to  time,  been  over  the  ground  and  brought 
back  samples  which  demonstrated  the  presence  of  gold.  However,  no 
serious  efforts  were  made  toward  development,  though  some  exploration 
work  was  done,  as  for  instance  in  1S74  when  a  tunnel  was  driven  in  Arequa 
Creek,  and  again  in  1879  m  Poverty  Gulch.  In  these,  as  in  other  instances 
prospectors  were  unfortunate  and  just  missed  the  ore  which  is  now  being 
profitably  mined. 

In  February,  1891,  some  Colorado  Springs  men  determined  upon  a  serious 
attempt  to  test  the  capabilities  of  the  district,  taking  up  several  claims 
which  promised  so  well  that,  during  the  following  spring  and  summer,  many 
prospectors  flocked  in  and  by  the  close  of  the  year  some  2,000  people  were 
there,  really  determined  to  prove  its  worth.  The  camp  was  now  well  under 
way  and  during  1892  its  progress  was  rapid.  Work  was  mainly  confined  to 
the  location  and  establishment  of  claims,  and  testing  their  value.  In  the 
course  of  that  year  some  ten  or  a  dozen  mines  became  regular  shippers  of 
ore  and  their  output  reached  a  total  of  some  $600,000. 

During  1893  progress  has  been  still  more  rapid.  Numerous  new  claims 
have  been  located  and  the  number  of  regular  shipping  mines  has  increased 
to  some  seventy  or  eighty,  while  many  others  not  actual  shippers  have  pay 
ore  in  sight  and  the  total  output  has  increased  to  $2,400,000  for  the  year. 
This  would  seem  to  be  a  very  creditable  showing  but  a  much  increased 
rate  of  progress  may  be  hoped  for  in  the  immediate  future. 

Coal  Creek  Branch.  A  branch  line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
Railroad  runs  from  Florence  to  Coal  Creek,  a  distance  of  six  miles,  where 
excellent  and  extensive  coal  mines  are  in  operation.  This  line  is  one  of 
great  commercial  importance,  opening  one  of  the  most  extensive  coal  fields 
in  the  state. 


34 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


CANON   CITY. 

Health    and   Pleasure 

Resort. 

Business  Centre. 

Distance  from  Denver,  160 

Miles. 

Population,  3,500. 

Elevation,  5,243  feet. 


Coal  Creek  is  at  the  terminus  of  this  branch  of  the  line.     It  is  well 

supplied  with  stores  and  shops  of  all  kinds  and  does  a  thriving  business. 

(Population,  1,500.    Distance  from  Denver,  155  miles.    Elevation,  5,360  feet.) 

This  city  is  rightly  named,  for  it  stands  at 
the  entrance  to  the  greatest  canon  penetrated 
by  any  railroad.  The  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Arkansas  is  acknowledged  by  a  universal  con- 
sensus of  opinion  to  be  one  of  the  great  wonders 
of  the  world.  The  Arkansas  River,  which 
rises  in  Fremont  Park,  one  hundred  and 
seventy  miles  to  the  northwest  of  Canon  City, 
here  breaks  its  way  through  the  Front  Range  of 

mountains  and  enters  upon   its  uneventful  course  to  the  Mississippi.     The 

town  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Colorado,  and  is  essentially  a  place  of  pleasant 

homes.      It   is  the  county-seat  of   Fremont   County,   and   the   seat  of  the 

State  Penitentiary.  Its 

warm     and     equable 

climate    makes    it    a 

favorite  resort  for  in- 
valids.  In  addition  to 

its  pleasant  climate  it 

possesses       valuable 

mineral  springs,  both 

hot    and    cold.     The 

water    of     the     cold 

springs  is  almost  icy 

in    temperature,   and 

strongly  impregnated 

with  soda.     The  cold 

springs   are    situated 

just  above  the    Peni 

tentiary.  The  scenery 

round    about    Canon 

City     is    exceedingly 

attractive.    The  drive 

of  about  twelve  miles 

to  the   brink    of    the 

Royal  Gorge  and  the 

view  of  that  wonder- 
ful chasm    from    the 

top,  which  can  there 

be  obtained,  are  ex- 
periences never  to  be 

forgotten.     The  town 

and   its   contiguous  country  possess  the  finest  orchards   in  the  state,   and 

the   cultivation   of    fruit    has    become    a    leading  industry.       The   city   is 

well   built,  has   handsome  business   blocks   and    comfortable   and  elegant 

residences. 

The  Hot  Springs.     Having  left  Canon  City  and  traversed  a  mile 

to  the  westward  the  traveler  will   observe  to  his  left,  a  picturesque,  many 


GRAPE  CREEK  CANON. 


ROVAL  GORGE. 


36  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

gabled  building,  across  die  river,  a  rustic  foot  bridge  leading  thereto. 
This  is  the  Royal  Gorge  Hotel  situated  at  the  Hot  Springs.  The  hotel  has 
excellent  accommodations  for  guests  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  health  and 
pleasure  seekers.  The  springs  are  recommended  by  physicians  as  excel- 
lent in  cases  of  cutaneous  and  blood  diseases.  Prof.  Loew's  analysis  of  the 
waters  is  as  follows  : 

Grains  in  a  Gallon  of  Water 
Temperature  of  104  deg.  Fall. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 18.2 

Sulphate  of  Soda 79-3 

Carbonate  of  Soda 73.2 

Carbonate  of  Lime 33.5 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 12.8 

Lithia Trace. 

217.0 

Baths  have  been  provided  at  the  hotel  and  are  supplied  with   all    the 
modern  conveniences. 

Silver  Cliff"  Branch.  This  branch,  33  miles  in  length,  which  turns 
to  the  left  just  as  the  train  enters  the  Grand  Canon,  two  miles  above  Canon 
City,  has  its  terminus  at  West  Cliff.  It  passes  through  most  charming 
scenery  and  enters  an  exceedingly  fertile  country,  the  Wet  Mountain  Val 
ley  surrounding  the  terminal  station.  Its  greatest  claim  to  scenic  attrac- 
tion is  the  fact  that  it  passes  through  a  canon  only  less  grand  than  that  of 
the  Arkansas. 

Grape  Creek  CaiiOii.  Among  the  many  remarkable  canons  for 
which  the  State  of  Colorado  is  famous,  there  is  probably  none  which  presents 
more  attractions  to  the  lover  of  nature,  or  which  combines  the  sublime  with  the 
beautiful  more  perfectly,  than  that  of  Grape  Creek.  This  beautiful  stream 
takes  its  rise  among  the  lofty  and  almost  inaccessible  peaks  of  the  Sangre 
de  Cristo  Range,  and  flowing  nearly  northward,  waters  in  its  course  the 
beautiful  and  fertile  Wet  Mountain  Valley  ;  then  passing  near  the  famous 
Silver  Cliff  mining  camp  it  continues  its  tortuous  course  in  an  easterly 
direction  until  it  enters  the  Arkansas  River  about  a  mile  above  Canon  City, 
just  where  the  river  leaves  the  Grand  Canon,  after  its  terrific  conflict  with 
the  granite  cliffs,  and  tossing  its  foam  crests  high  in  the  air,  makes  its  last 
triumphant  exit  from  the  mountains.  The  walls  of  this  canon  present  a 
splendid  study  for  the  geologist,  as  piled  up  in  many  places  over  a  thousand 
feet  in  nearly  vertical  height,  they  exhibit  the  various  formations  of  primary 
rock  in  a  striking  and  peculiar  manner.  The  entrance  to  the  canon  for  over 
a  mile  follows  the  windings  of  the  clear  flowing  creek,  with  gently  sloping 
hills  on  either  side  covered  with  low  spruce  and  pinon,  and  with  grass  plats 
and  brilliant  flowers,  in  season,  far  up  their  slopes,  and  the  Spanish 
lance  and  bush  cactus  presents  their  bristling  points  wherever  a  little  soil 
affords  them  sustenance.  To  examine  this  canon  thoroughly  a  carriage 
or  saddle-horses  should  be  taken  from  Canon  City,  but  as  the  train  ascent  of 
the  grades  must  be^made  slowly,  a  very  satisfactory  view  can  be  gained 
from  the  cars  in  passing. 

West  Cliff".     This  town  is  beautifully   situated  in  the  Wet   Mountain 


38 


OVER   THE  RANGE. 


THE    ROYAL   GORGE. 

Valley,  surrounded  by  a  fine  grazing  and  agricultural  country.  The  view 
is  a  grand  one,  lofty  mountains  bounding  the  entire  circle  of  the  horizon. 
A  mile  from  the  station  is  Silver  Cliff,  which  after  the  discovery  of  the 
Racine  Boy  mine,  was  the  centre  of  a  tremendous  rush  of  miners,  resulting 
in  several  other  great  discoveries,  but  the  large  mines  were  few  in  number 
and  the  prospectors  left  for  other  fields.  The  good  mines  are  still  produc- 
tive and  add  their  quota  to  the  prosperity  of  the  valley.  West  Cliff  is  the 
shipping  point  for  Silver  Cliff  and  Rosita,  being  the  railroad  station.  (Pop- 
ulation, 800.     Distance  from  Denver,  194  miles.     Elevation,  7,864  feet.) 


ROYAL  GORGE. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

163 

miles. 

Greatest 

Height  of 

Walls,  2 

,627  feet. 

Length, 

7  miles. 

TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  39 

ju&i  beyond  Canon  City  the  railway  enters  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Arkansas,  the  narrowest  portion  of  which  is  known  as  the  Royal  Gorge. 
When  arsi  examined  it  seemed  impossible  that  a  railway  could  ever  be 
constructed  through  this  stupendous  canon  to  Leadville  and  the  west. 
There  was  scarcely  room  for  the  river  alone, 
and  granite  ledges  blocked  the  path  with. their 
mighty  bulk.  In  time,  however,  these  obstruc- 
tions were  blasted  away,  a  road-bed  closely 
following  the  contour  of  the  cliffs  was  made,  and 
to-day  the  canon  is  a  well-used  thoroughfare. 
But  its  grandeur  still  remains.  After  entering 
its  depths,  the  train  moves  slowly  along  the 
side  of  the  Arkansas,  and  around  projecting 
shoulders  of  dark-hued  granite,  deeper  and 
deeper  into  the  heart  of  the  range.  The 
crested  crags  grow  higher,  the  river  madly  foams  along  its  rocky  bed,  and 
anon  the  way  becomes  a  mere  fissure  through  the  heights.  Far  above  the 
road  the  sky  forms  a  deep  blue  arch  of  light ;  but  in  the  Gorge  hang  dark 
and  sombre  shades  which  the  sun's  rays  have  never  penetrated.  The  place 
is  a  measureless  gulf  of  air  with  solid  walls  on  either  side.  Here  the  gran- 
ite cliffs  are  a  thousand  feet  high,  smooth  and  unbroken  by  tree  or  shrub  ; 
and  there  a  pinnacle  soars  skyward  for  thrice  that  distance.  No  flowers 
grow,  and  the  birds  care  not  to  penetrate  the  solitudes.  The  river,  sombre 
and  swift,  breaks  the  awful  stillness  with  its  roar.  Soon  the  cleft  becomes 
still  more  narrow,  the  treeless  cliffs  higher,  the  river  closer  confined,  and 
where  a  long  iron  bridge  hangs  suspended  from  the  smooth  walls,  the 
grandest  portion  of  the  canon  is  reached.  Man  becomes  dwarfed  and 
dumb  in  the  sublime  scene,  and  Nature  exhibits  the  power  she  possesses. 
The  crags  menacingly  rear  their  heads  above  the  daring  intruders,  and  the 
place  is  like  the  entrance  to  some  infernal  region.  Escaping  from  the 
Gorge,  the  narrow  valley' of  the  upper  Arkansas  is  traversed,  with  the  strik- 
ing serrated  peaks  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  close  at  hand  on  the  west,  until 
Salida  is  reached. 

There  are  a  number  of  stations  between  Canon  City  and  Salida,  but 
none  of  them  are  of  special  interest  to  the  tourist,  except  that  fishing  and 
hunting  can  be  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  any  of  them. 

Parkdale.  This  is  the  point  where  tourists  who  desire  only  to  see 
the  famous  Royal  Gorge  disembark  from  the  west  bound  train,  to  return 
again  to  Pueblo,  Colorado  Springs  or  Denver.  (Population  nominal.  Dis- 
tance from  Denver,  172  miles.     Elevation,  5,737  feet.) 

Beautiful  Mountain  View.  Emerging  from  the  canon,  a  most 
beautiful  mountain  view  is  obtained  ;  to  the  left  stretch  the  serrated  sum- 
mits of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  while  to  the  front  and  right  are  the 
towering  peaks  of  the  Collegiate  Mountains. 

Wellsville  Hot  Spring's  are  on  our  left  across  the  Arkansas  River, 
six  miles  before  Salida  is  reached.  Here  is  a  natural  warm  plunge  bath, 
the  waters  of  which  are  strongly  impregnated  with  medicinal  qualities. 
The  Wellsville  Springs  are  a  favorite  resort,  and  are  made  the  objective 
point  for  many  pleasant  excursion  parties. 


40 


OVER    THE  RANGE. 


This  prosperous  town  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank   of  the  Arkansas  River,  anil    is   the   con- 
verging point  of  the  four  great  divisions  of  the 
Denver    &    Rio    Grande    Railroad.      The   first 
division  being  the  line  to  the  east ;  the  second  is 
the  main  line  to  the  west  via  Leadville,  Glenwood 
Springs  and   Grand   Junction ;  the   third   is  the 
narrow    gauge    line    to    Grand     Junction    over 
Marshall    Pass    and    via    Gunnison    and  Mon- 
trose, and  the  fourth  is  the  southern  extension 
to  Alamosa,  Durango,  Silverton  and  Santa  Fe. 
The  view  of  the  mountains  from  Salida  is  especially  grand.     The  Colleg- 
iate Range    rises    to    the    west  with  Yale,  Harvard  and  Princeton  Peaks 
in  plain  view  crowned  with  perpetual  snow,  while  to  the  south  stands  the 


SALIDA. 

Health   and   Pleasure 

Resort  and 

Business  Centre. 

Population,  3,000. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
217  miles. 

Elevation,  7,049  feet. 

Eating  Station. 


SROWN'S    CANON. 


Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  and  in  the  south-west  tower  Ouray  and  Shaveno. 
The  beauty  of  its  situation,  the  near  proximity  to  hot  medicinal  springs,  the 
wonderful  salubrity  of  its  climate,  make  Salida  an  extremely  popular  health 
and  pleasure  resort.  Tributary  to  the  town  are  mines  of  copper,  silver, 
gold,  iron  and  coal,  great  quantities  of  charcoal  are  burned  near  Salida. 
and  the  agricultural  and  pastoral  interest  are  of  great  extent. 

The  trip  from  Salida  to  Grand  Junction  and  Ogden  abounds  in  interest 
for  the  tourist.  It  leads  one  through  a  most  varied  country,  and  presents  to 
the  inspection  of  the  traveler  almost  every  variety  of  industry,  from  the  agri- 
culture and  stock  raising  of  the  Arkansas,  Eagle  and  Grand  River  Valleys 
to  the  gold  and  silver  mining  of  Leadville  and  Aspen,  and  it  may  be  said,  in 
passing,  that. Leadville  and  Aspen  are  two  of  the  greatest  mining  camps  in 
the  world  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  scenery  after  Salida  is  passed 
grows  in  interest  with  each  mile  of  advance.  We  are  steaming  up  the  left 
bank  of  the  Arkansas  River,  and  are  cussing  the  western  border  of   the 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  41 

Great  South  Park.  The  mountains  capped  with  snow  shut  us  in  throughout 
the  whole  circle  of  the  horizon.  The  Collegiate  Range,  including  the  peaks 
of  Yale,  Harvard  and  Princeton  to  our  left,  and  beyond,  the  great  volcano- 
made  cones  of  Ouray  and  Shaveno,  which  tower  above  Marshall  Pass. 
Away  off  to  the  right  are  the  Kenosha  Hills.  Agriculture  and  stock  raising 
are  the  main  industries  of  South  Park,  and  the  ranchmen  find  these  pur- 
suits of  an  exceedingly  lucrative  character.  A  number  of  small  stations 
are  passed  beyond  Salida  as  follows:  Brown's  Canon,  Hecla  Junction, 
Xathrop  and  Midway. 

Brown's  Canon.  After  passing  the  station  of  Brown's  Canon,  fine 
views  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  peaks  present  themselves  close  by,  and  then 
the  rocks  are  heaped  up  again  into  the  grand  defile  of  Brown's  Canon, 
where  one  of  our  illustrations  was  made. 

Calumet  Branch.  Just  before  entering  Brown's  Canon,  a  branch 
road  can  be  seen  running  off  to  the  northward.  That  is  the  short  road  up  to 
Calumet,  where  the  Colorado  Fuel  and  Iron  Company  have  iron  mines  of 
great  value  and  in  constant  operation,  for  the  ore  is  suitable  for  the  making 
of  Bessemer  steel.  These  mines  are  open,  quarry-like  excavations,  and 
the  ore  is  therefore  more  easily  handled  than  is  usual.  The  grade  on  this 
branch,  four  hundred  and  six  feet  to  the  mile,  is  said  to  be  the  heaviest  in 
the  world  where  no  cog-wheels  are  used.  Only  a  few  empty  cars  can  be 
hauled  up;  and  the  difficulty  is  almost  as  great  in  descending,  for  it  requires 
at  least  four  cars,  dragging  with  hard  set  brakes,  to  hold  an  engine  under 
control  in  going  down.  Marble  and  lumber  in  great  quantities  are  also 
shipped  down  this  little  branch  from  the  neighborhood  of  Calumet. 

Buena  Vista.  Buena  Vista  is  the  county  seat  of  Chaffee  County. 
The  town  was  incorporated  in  the  month  of  December,  1879,  and,  for  its 
age,  is  a  wonderfully  thriving  place.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Arkansas  River,  thirty-six  miles  below  Leadville  and  242  miles  from 
Denver.  The  town  is  quite  an  important  station,  and  is  surrounded  by 
good  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  fine  pasture  lands  for  stock  and  many 
improved  ranches.  The  city  has  an  abundance  of  pure  water,  fine  shade 
trees,  churches,  schools,,  stores,  etc.  (Population,  1,800.  Distance  from 
Denver,  242  miles.     Elevation,  7,970  feet.) 

Cottonwood  Springs.  The  Cottonwood  Hot  Springs  have  long 
been  famous  in  Colorado  for  their  curative  properties.  They  were  the 
resort  of  the  Indians  before  the  whites  took  possession  of  the  country,  and 
have  since  been  greatly  improved  and  made  accessible  to  invalids  and 
tourists.  The  springs  are  situated  six  miles  from  Buena  Vista,  whence  a 
stage  line  conveys  passengers  arriving  on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Rail- 
road to  the  springs.  For  cases  of  inflammatory  rheumatism,  lead  poison- 
ing, and  diseases  of  the  blood,  these  waters  possess  remarkable  curative 
properties.  The  scenery  of  the  valley  in  which  the  springs  are  situated  is 
of  great  loveliness,  the  Collegiate  Range  of  mountains  forming  an  imposing 
background.  Fine  trout  fishing  can  be  found  in  ten  minutes'  walk  up  and 
down  Cottonwood  Creek,  and  the  neighboring  hills  abound  in  game.  There 
are  good  accommodations  here  for  tourists  and  invalids. 

After  leaving  Buena  Vista  the  following  small  stations  are  passed: 
Americus,  Riverside,  Pine  Creek,  and  Twin  Lakes  (station). 


TWIN    LAKES. 

Pleasure  Resort. 
Elevation,  9,357  feet. 


TO   THE   GOLDEX  GATE.  43 

Granite.  At  this  point  the  stage  line  to  Twin  Lakes  connects  with 
the  trains.  Placer  mining  by  huge  hydraulic  systems  are  in  full  operation 
and  have  been  successfully  worked  for  the  past  twenty  years.  (Population, 
150.     Elevation,  8,945  feet.     Distance  from  Denver,  259  miles.) 

The  station  of  Twin  Lakes  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  lakes 
themselves.  These  most  beautiful  mountain  tarns  are  best  reached  by  a 
seven  miles  stage  ride  from  Granite  Station.  The  drive  is  in  itself  a 
delightful  experience,  and  the  lakes  prove  a  most  charming  culmination. 
You  find  yourself  in  a  little  valley  about  seven  miles  in  area.  Around  you 
on  all  sides,  looming  up  grand  and  precipitous,  are  snow-capped  mountain 
peaks,  each  of  them  towering  fully  a  mile  high,  from  where  you  stand, 
completely  walling  you  in  from  the  outer  world.  These  mountains  are 
Mount  Elbert,  La  Plata,  and  Twin  Peaks,  each 
of  them  higher  than  the  famous  Pike's  Peak, 
Lake  Mountain,  Mount  Sheridan,  and  Park 
Range.  They  are  all  more  or  less  covered,  up 
to  the  timber  line,  with  fir  and  spruce  trees,  the 
fragrance  of  which  perfumes  the  atmosphere, 
and,  owing  to  the  rarified  air,  the  tops  of  the 
peaks,  on  which  rest  the  eternal  snows,  seem  so 
near  that  you  think  you  could  almost  throw  a 
stone  to  their  summits,  though  in  fact  the  length  of  that  very  uphill  stone- 
throw  would  be  considerably  more  than  a  mile.  For  about  three-fourths  of 
its  area  the  valley  is  occupied  by  the  lakes,  and  to  an  ordinary  observer  it 
is  plain  that  these  lakes  were  formerly  one  and  occupied  the  whole  valley 
up  to  the  very  foot  of  the  mountains.  At  present,  however,  they  are  twins — 
Siamese  twins — for  they  are  connected  by  a  mountain  stream,  which,  as 
well  as  the  lakes  themselves,  abound  in  the  most  delicious  mountain  trout 
that  ever  nibbled  at  a  hook  or  smoked  on  a  platter. 

Now  let  us  row  out  into  the  middle  of  the  upper  lake.  It  seems  as  if 
you  were  in  the  centre  of  a  mighty  amphitheatre,  the  arena  of  which  is 
water,  the  sloping  sides  fir- clad  mountains,  and  the  roof  a  great  bowl  in- 
verted, painted  a  gorgeous  blue  and  lightly  resting  on  the  snow-capped 
mountains.  The  sizzling  dweller  of  cities  may  ask  what  is  the  thermometer 
here?  1  do  not  know.  I  never  saw  one  here.  These  people  have  no  more 
use  for  a  thermometer  than  a  toad  has  for  a  pocket-book.  Old  Sol  rises 
bright  and  fierce-looking  every  morning  in  an  Italian  sky,  but  his  rays  are 
so  tempered  by  the  breezes  from  the  mountains  that  by  time  they  reach  the 
valley  they  are  just  pleasantly  warm  and  exhilarating.  But  there  is  one 
thing  his  rays  will  do,  and  city  folk  would  better  beware  of  them  if  they  do 
not  want  to  peel  off  their  outer  cuticle,  they  will  sunburn  as  effectually  as  il 
conveyed  through  the  medium  of  a  burning  glass;  this  is  owing  to  the  rarity 
of  the  atmosphere.  Flannels  can  and  ought  to  be  worn  here  every  day,  and 
a  person  sitting  reading  or  writing  in-doors  for  an  hour  or  so,  in  a  room 
where  there  is  no  fire,  and  while  the  sun  is  shining  brightly  outside,  will  find 
the  cold  stealing  up  his  nether  limbs. 

Returning  to  Granite  and  resuming  the  journey,  the  following  small 
stations  are  passed:  Hayden,  Crystal  Lake,  Malta  and  Filer. 


44  OVER    THE  RANGE. 


LEADVILLE, 

The  Great   "Carbonate 
Camp.' ' 

Population,  20,000. 

Elevation,  10,200  feet. 

Distance     from     Denver, 
277  miles. 


This    wonderful    Cloud    City    first  became 
known  to  lame  in  1859  :vs  California  Gulch,  one 
of  the  richest  placer  camps   in  Colorado.     From 
1859  to  1864  $5,000,000  in  gold  dust  were  washed 
from  the  ground  of  this  gulch.     The  camp  was 
afterwards   nearly   abandoned,  and   it   was    not 
until  1876  that  the  carbonate  beds  of  silver  were 
discovered.     Immediately  after  this  discovery  a 
great  rush  ensued  to  the  carbonate  camp,  which 
was   named    Leadville,  and   the  population  rose 
from  a  nominal  number  to  30,000.     Leadville  is  the  county  seat  of  Lake 
County.     It  is  the  third  city  in   size  in  Colorado,  and  the  greatest  and  most 
unique  carbonate  mining   camp  in  the  world.     The  visitor  to  Leadville   is 
irresistibly   reminded  of   the   words   of   Joaquin    Miller:     "Colorado,    rare 
Colorado!     Yonder   she  rests;    her  head  of  gold  pillowed  on  the   Rocky 
Mountains,  her  feet  in  the  brown  grass;  the  boundless  plains  for  a  play- 
ground; she  is  set  on  a  hill  before  the  world,  and  the  air  is  very  clear,  so 
that  all  may  see  her  well."     The  city  is  lighted  by  gas  and  electricity;  has 
telephonic  communication  with  surrounding  points;  has  the  usual  conven- 
iences and  luxuries  of  cities  of  corresponding  size,  and  in  all  respect  ranks 
as  one  of  the  greatest  cities  of  this  great  State.     Leadville  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  cities  in  the  world  to  the  tourist.     It  abounds  in  scenes  of  a 
novel  and  characteristic  nature,  and  presents  views  of  life  entirely  foreign 
to  the  conventional.     Mining  methods   are   here   fully   illustrated  in  every 
form,  from  lode    mining  to  hydraulic  and   sluicing   work.     Leadville  has  a 
handsome   theatre,  the    Tabor  Opera   House,  having  a  seating  capacity  of 
1,000.     The  scenery  around  Leadville  is  magnificent.     It  is  walled  in  on  all 
sides  by   towering  mountains    whose  summits    are  crowned  with   eternal 
snow.     Occupying  so  high  an  altitude,  the  effect  is  remarkable,  and  tourists 
can  find  no  more  striking  nor  interesting  scenes  than  those  presented   by 
Leadville  and  its   weird  and    wonderful    surroundings.     Leadville  is  well 
supplied  with  good  hotels.     Livery  accommodations  are  first-class,  and  the 
boulevard  affords  one  of  the  finest  drives  in  the  State.     Situated  on  the  front 
ol  Mount  Massive,  at  the  mouth  of  Colorado  Gulch,  and  distant  five  miles 
from  Leadville  are  the  popular  Soda  Springs  and  Evergreen  Lakes.     The 
boulevard,  a  carefully  constructed  drive,  one  hundred  feet  in  width,  and 
as  smooth  as  a  race  track,  gives  access  to  the  springs  and  lakes,  a  stage 
connecting  with  Leadville  twice  a  day.     The  springs  are  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  soda,  and  are  of  a  highly  medicinal  character.     There  is  excel- 
lent trout  fishing  within  a  few  minutes'  walk  of  the  springs,  pleasant  drives 
and  rides  are  numerous,  and  placer  as  well  as  lode  mining  are  in  progress 
in  near  proximity,  easily  accessible  to  the   inspection  of  the  tourist.     As  a 
business  point,  Leadville  is  recognized  as  among  the  first  in  the  State;  with 
its   large   population,   great  smelting   works   and  vast   mining   industry,  it 
cannot  help  commanding  the  attention  of  business  men  and  investors. 

Between  Leadville  and  Tennessee  Pass  are  the  following  unimportant 
stations:     Leadville  Junction,  Keeldar  and  Crane's  Park. 

Tennessee  Pass.  Rising  along  a  tortuous  path  cut  at  a  heavy 
grade,  as  usual,  into  the  side  hills,  we  mount  slowly  into  Tennessee  Pass, 
which  feeds  the  head  of  Eagle  River  on  one  side  and  one  source  of  the 


MOUNT  OF  THE   HOLY  CROSS. 


46 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


Arkansas  on  the  other.  It  is  a  comparatively  low  and  easy  pass,  covered 
everywhere  with  dense  timber,  and  a  wagon  road  has  long  been  followed 
through  it.  Reaching  an  elevation  of  quite  10,433  Ieet»  tne  train  darts  into 
a  tunnel  half  a  mile  long  and  on  emerging  at  the  western  end  we  are  on  the 
Pacific  slope.  There  is  nothing  to  be  seen  except  an  occasional  pile  of 
ties,  or  a  charcoal  oven,  save  that  now  and  then  a  gap  in  the  hills  shows 
the  gray  rough  summits  of  Galena,  Homestake,  and  the  other  hights  that 
gudrd  the  Holy  Cross.  At  each  end  of  the  Pass  is  a  little  open  glade  or 
"park,"  where  settlers  have  placed  their  cabins  and  fenced  off  a  few  acres 
of  level  ground  whereon  to  cut  hay,  for  nothing  else  will  grow  at  this  great 
elevation. 

We  can  do  no  better  service  to  the  tourist  than  to  quote  Ernest  Inger- 
soll's  description  of  this  famous  mountain  given  in  "The  Crest  of  the 
Continent."  He  says:  "One  of  the  side  valleys,  coming  down  to  the 
track  at  right  angles  from  the  southwestward 
— I  think  it  is  Homestake  Gulch — leads  the  eye 
up  through  a  glorious  alpine  avenue  to  where 
the  cathedral  crest  of  a  noble  peak  pierces  the 
sky.  It  is  a  summit  that  would  attract  the  eye 
anywhere, —  its  feet  hidden  in  verdurous  hills, 
guarded  by  nightly  crags,  half-buried  in  seeth- 
ing clouds,  its  helmet  vertical,  frowning,  plumed 
with  gleaming  snow, — 


riOUNT   OF 

THE 

HOLY   CROSS. 

Elevation,     14,176     feet. 


'  Ay,  every  inch  a  king.' 

"It  is  the  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross,  bearing  the  sacred  symbol  in  such 
heroic  characters  as  dwarf  all  human  graving,  and  set  on  the  pinnacle  of 
the  world  as  though  in  sign  of  possession  forever.  The  Jesuits  went  hand 
in  hand  with  the  Chevalier  Dubois,  proclaiming  Christian  Gospel  in  the 
northern  forests;  the  Puritan  brought  his  Testament  to  New  England,  the 
Spanish  banners  of  victory  on  the  Golden  shores  of  the  Pacific  were  upheld 
by  the  fiery  zeal  of  the  friars  of  San  Francisco;  the  frozen  Alaskan  cliffs 
resounded  to  the  chanting  of  the  monks  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.  On  every 
side  the  virgin  continent  was  taken  in  the  name  of  Christ,  and  with  all  the 
eclat  of  religious  conquest.  Yet  from  ages  unnumbered,  before  any  of 
them,  centuries  oblivious  in  the  mystery  of  past  time,  the  Cross  had  been 
planted  here.  As  a  prophecy  during  unmeasured  generations,  as  a  sign  of 
glorious  fulfillment  during  nineteen  centuries,  from  always  and  to  eternity 
a  reminder  of  our  fealty  to  heaven,  this  divine  seal  has  been  set  upon  our 
proudest  eminence.  What  matters  it  whether  we  write  'God'  in  the  con- 
stitution of  the  United  States,  when  here  in  the  sight  of  all  men  is  inscribed 
this  marvelous  testimony  to  his  sovereignty!  Shining  grandly  out  of  the 
pure  ether,  and  above  all  turbulence  of  earthly  clouds,  it  says:  Humble  thy- 
self, O  man!  Measure  thy  fiery  works  at  their  true  insignificance.  Uncover 
thy  head  and  acknowledge  thy  weakness.  Forget  not,  that  as  high  above 
thy  gilded  spires  gleams  the  splendor  of  this  ever-living  Cross,  so  are  My 
thoughts  above  thy  thoughts,  and  My  ways  above  thy  ways." 

Craue's  Park  is  a  beautiful  park  in  the  mountains  at  the  western 
foot  of  Tennessee  Pass.  Here  are  to  be  seen  the  kilns  of  charcoal  burners, 
and  a  wonderful  valley  and  mountain  view. 


EAGLE    RIVER 
CANON. 

Height    of    Walls, 
2,000  feet. 


TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE.  47 

Red  Cliff  Canou.  Just  beyond  Crane's  Park  the  railroad  enters 
Red  Cliff  Canon,  a  comparatively  short  but  very  interesting  gorge  in  the 
mountains. 

Red  Cliff.  This  picturesque  little  town  is  the  country  seat  of  Eagle 
County,  and  the  entrepot  of  a  large  mining  district.  The  mines  of  the 
Battle  Mountain  and  other  districts  contribute  greatly  to  the  business  of  the 
place.  Leadville  with  its  smelters  is  only  25  miles  distant,  and  this  fact  is 
also  an  element  of  success  among  the  many  which  give  promise  of  future 
prosperity  to  the  town.  The  scenery  around  Red  Cliff  is  of  the  grandest 
and  most  beautiful  description.  To  reach  the  town  the  traveler  makes  the 
ascent  and  descent  of  Tennessee  Pass,  and  obtains  the  best  distant  view 
that  can  be  had  of  the  famous  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross.  Just  beyond  Red 
Cliff  are  the  wonders  of  Eagle  River  Canon.  (Population,  1,000.  Distance 
from  Denver,  300  miles.     Elevation,  8,615  feet.) 

Beyond  Red  Cliff  the  Eagle  River  Canon 
opens  to  the  view  at  first  a  comparatively  wide 
expanse,  later  more  narrow,  walled  in  on  each 
side  by  cliffs  of  vari-colored  rocks,  whose  lofty 
and  apparently  insurmountable  summits  bear 
the  dark  banners  of  the  pine.  Admiration  and 
awe  at  this  stupendous  work  of  Nature  take 
possession  of  the  mind,  when  suddenly  these 
emotions  are  overshadowed  by  wonder  and 
almost  incredulous  surprise  at  the  daring  of  man,  for  there  above  us  on 
the  right,  perched  like  the  nest  of  heaven-scaling  eagles,  rest  the  habita- 
tions of  men  !  There  are  the  shaft  houses  and  abiding  places  of  adventur- 
ous miners,  who,  having  climbed  these  cliffs,  pick  in  hand,  have  here 
discovered  rich  veins  of  the  precious  metal,  which,  being  blasted  from  its 
matrix,  is  conveyed  to  the  railroad  track  2,000  feet  below,  by  a  most  ingen- 
ious system  of  tramways  and  endless  steel  ropes.  There  is  something  very 
impressive  in  the  sight  of  these  frail  cliff-perched  dwellings;  and  the  shaft- 
penetrated,  tunnel-pierced  peaks  suggest  irresistibly  the  fabled  cavernous 
labyrinths  of  "  Kor."  Nowhere  can  the  traveler  find  a  more  interesting  and 
instructive  illustration  of  mining  methods  than  is  here  presented  by  the 
shaft-scarred  sides  of  Battle  Mountain  and  the  pinnacle-perched  eyries  of 
Eagle  River  Canon. 

Milltlirn.  Having  passed  through  the  canon,  the  train  brings  up  at  the 
eating  station  at  Minturn,  where  a  first  class  meal  is  always  obtainable. 
(Population,  nominal.  Elevation,  7,823  feet.  Distance  from  Denver,  308 
miles.) 

The  Valley  of  the  Eag'le.  Leaving  Minturn,  one  enters  the 
Valley  of  Eagle  River.  Quieter  scenes  of  pastoral  and  agricultural 
achievements  follow.  Here  are  comfortable  ranch  houses  surrounded  by 
fertile  fields ;  there  are  herds  of  cattle  feeding  contentedly  in  natural  pas- 
tures ;  while  on  all  sides  are  seen  evidences  of  peace,  prosperity  and  plenty. 
The  Eagle  River,  a  beautiful  stream,  whose  pellucid  waters  do  not  conceal 
the  bright  colored  gravel  of  its  bed,  meanders  through  the  valley,  adding 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scene,  and  carrying  with  it  the  practical  benefits  of  irri- 
gation, without  which  the  soil  would  produce  nothing  but  vegetation 
suitable  for  grazing  purposes.     The  clear,  cold  water  swarms  with  trout,  and 


48 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


here  the  disciples  of  old  Izaak  Walton  cannot  fail  to  find  ample  room  and 

verge  for  plying  their  gentle  craft. 

In  our  journey  through  the  valley  we  pass  the  following  stations:  Rock 

Creek,  Allenton,  Sher- 
wood, Eagle,  Gypsum, 
Dotsero,  Shoshone  and 
Sulphur  Springs. 


CANON 

OF    THE 

GRAND   RIVER. 

A    Marvelous   Gorge. 

One  of  the   World's 
Wonders. 


EXPLORING  THE  WALLS. 


Gradually  the  valley 
narrows,  high  bluffs  hem 
us  in  on  the  left,  the  river 
is  close  to  the  track  on 
the  right,  and  its  fertile 
banks  suddenly  change 
into  a  tumbled,  twisted, 
black  and  blasted  ex- 
panse of  scoria,  the  out- 
pouring of  some  ancient 
volcano  of  tremendous 
activity.  The  few  trees 
on  the  hither  side  of  the 
stream  are  also  black,  an 
inheritance  of  fire;  the 
waters  under  the  black 
banks,  and  reflecting  the 
blackened  trees,  take  on 
a  swarthy  hue  —  a  Styg- 
ian picture!  Just  beyond, 
a  distant  glimpse  of 
fertile  country,  and  the 
clear  waters  of  the  Eagle 
are  lost  in  the  muddy 
current  of  the  Grand, 
and  a  canon  greater  in 
extent  and  more  varied 
in  character  than  that  of 
the  Arkansas  opens  be- 
fore us.  As  the  train 
speeds  downward,  the 
mountains  on  the  horizon 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE.  49 

behind  us  seem  to  rise  up  towards  the  zenith  as  though  the  miracle  of  crea- 
tion was  being  repeated  before  our  eyes.  Soon,  however,  the  distant 
mountains  are  shut  out  and  only  the  sky  above,  the  river  and  track  beneath 
and  the  cliffs  around  are  visible ;  and  here  begins  a  panorama,  kaleido- 
scopic in  its  ever  changing  forms  and  colors,  the  wonder  of  the  one  who 
sees,  the  despair  of  the  one  who  wished  to  tell  others  what  he  saw. 

In  places  the  effect  is  that  of  giant  Egptian  art  and  architecture.  Vast 
bastions  of  granite,  strata  on  strata,  rise  to  a  stupendous  height,  braced 
against  rock  masses  behind  them,  infinitely  vaster.  Suggestions  of  the 
Sphinx  and  of  the  pyramids  can  be  caught  in  the  severe  and  gigantic  rock- 
piled  structures  on  every  hand.  These  are  not  made  up  of  boulders, 
nor  are  they  solid  monoliths;  like  those  in  the  Royal  Gorge.  On  the  con- 
trary, they  are  columns,  bastions,  buttresses,  walls,  pyramids,  towers, 
turrets,  even  statues,  of  stratified  stone,  with  sharp  cleavage,  not  in  the  least 
weather-worn,  presenting  the  appearance  of  Brobdignagian  masonry  — 
hence  I  use  the  phrase  "rock-piled  structures"  advisedly  and  as  best 
descriptive  of  what  there  exists. 

But  the  kaleidoscope  is  shaken  and  the  rock  pieces  are  re-arranged. 
The  effect  is  startling.  We  have  left  Egypt,  with  her  shades  of  gray  and 
her  frowning,  massive  and  gigantic  forms.  We  are  in  a  region  of  glowing 
colors,  where  the  vermillion,  the  maroon,  the  green  and  the  yellow  abound 
and  mingle  and  contrast.  What  strange  country  was  the  prototype  of  this? 
Ah  I  yonder  is  something  characteristic  —  a  terraced  pyramid  banded  with 
brilliant  and  varied  colors  —  the  teocoli  of  the  Aztecs. 

Whirling  around  a  headland  of  glowing  red  rock,  which  it  seems  ought 
to  be  called  "Flamingo  Point,"  we  are  in  a  region  of  ruddy  color  and  of 
graceful  forms.  Minarets,  from  whose  summits  the  muezzin's  call  might 
readily  be  imagined  falling  upon  the  ears  of  the  dwellers  in  this  "Orient  in 
the  West,"  spires  more  graceful  than  that  of  Bruges,  more  lofty  than  that 
of  Trinity,  towers  more  marvelous  than  Pisa's  leaning  wonder,  columns 
more  curious  than  that  of  Vendome,  splintered  and  airy  pinnacles,  infinite 
in  variety,  innumerable!  inimitable!  indescribable! 

In  a  moment  darkness  and  the  increased  rumble  of  wheels ;  then  light 
and  another  marvelous  view.  We  have  passed  tunnel  No.  i,  the  portcullis; 
darkness  again  for  a  moment,  then  the  blue  sky  above  us.  We  have 
entered  through  the  postern  gate;  darkness  for  the  third  time — absolute, 
unmitigated  blackness  of  darkness;  this  must  be  "the  deepest  dungeon 
'neath  the  castle  moat."  But  soon  again  we  see  the  blessed  light,  and  there 
before  us  lies  Glenwood  Springs! — Colorado's  Greatest  Resort. 

Glenwood  Springs  is  the  pleasure  and 
health  resort  of  Colorado,  as  well  as  a  flourishing 
and  growing  town.  It  is  the  county  seat  of  Gar- 
field County.  The  picturesque  scenery  of  the 
Grand  River,  from  its  source  midst  the  peaks 
and  crags  of  the  Rockies,  to  its  debouch  into  the 
magnificent  waters  of  the  broad  Colorado,  has 
been  the  theme  of  able  writers  in  prose  and 
poetry,  but  at  no  spot  in  its  rapid  march  to  the 
sea,  do  the  waters  of  the  Grand  glisten  and 
ripple  upon  the  shores  of  a  lovelier  valley  than 


Glenwood    Springs. 

Health   and    Pleasure 

Resort. 

Wonderful   Hot 
Springs. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
367   miles. 

Elevation,  5,758  feet. 

Population,  3,000. 


50  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

at  its  confluence  with  the  Roaring  Fork,  where  are  situated  the  springs  and 
city  of  Glenwood.  Here  the  sentinel  ranges,  which  have  guarded  the 
stormy  passage  of  the  turbulent  stream  through  mountain  pass  and  precip- 
itous canon,  seem  to  have  deployed  their  ranks,  that  they  might  surround 
and  embrace  a  valley  so  lovely  in  its  landscape  and  set  in  a  frame  of  such 
scenic  grandeur.  The  springs  themselves  are  phenomenal,  innumerable 
fountains  bubbling  up  over  an  area  covering  both  sides  of  the  river,  and 
varying  in  volume  from  twenty  to  one  thousand  cubic  inches  per  second. 
The  principal  springs  on  the  north  side  of  the  Grand  River  discharge  an 
immense  body  of  water,  heated  in  nature's  furnace  to  140  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, which  flows  in  a  broad  stream  to  its  outlet  through  an  aqueduct 
recently  constructed,  forming  a  beautiful  island,  upon  which  is  erected  a  com- 
modious and  well  appointed  bathing  house,  provided  with  every  convenience 
for  sitz,  plunge  and  vapor  bathing.  The  waters  have  been  found  of  great 
benefit  to  invalids,  and  as  a  result  the  springs  are  largely  patronized.  Aside 
from  the  beautiful  valley  selected  for  its  site,  and  the  attractions  pre- 
sented by  its  wonderful  springs,  Glenwood  City  possesses  many  advantages 
and  material  resources  which  are  destined  to  make  it  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant points  on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  town  has 
electric  lights,  water  works,  and  all  of  the  modern  improvements.  Glen- 
wood is  well  supplied  with  hotels.  The  new  Hotel  Colorado,  completed 
and  opened  in  June,  1893,  at  a  cost  of  £350,000,  is  probably  one  of  the  finest 
resort  hotels  in  the  United  States.  It  is  built  of  Roman  tiles  and  Colorado 
peach-blow  stone  and  contains  two  hundred  guest  rooms  and  forty  private 
baths,  is  built  in  Italian  style,  and  located  under  the  shadow  of  the  mountains, 
with  the  banks  of  the  famous  Tool  immediately  in  front  of  it.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  beautiful  parks  and  drives,  and  withal,  is  a  most  delightful 
place  to  spend  a  season.  This  beautiful  hotel  is  owned  by  Mr.  Walter 
Raymond  of  the  Raymond  Vacation  Excursions,  and  all  the  parties  man- 
aged by  him  spend  at  least  a  week  here.  The  hotel  is  under  the  manage- 
ment of  Mr.  A.  W.Bailey,  formerly  of  Manitou,  whose  ability  as  a  hotel 
manager  is  second  to  none  in  the  country.  There  are  two  other  hotels, 
though  less  pretentious,  the  Hotel  Glenwood  and  the  Hotel  Harlow. 

Accommodations  for  IJiitliili^.  The  bath  house  recently  erected 
at  the  wonderful  hot  springs  here,  is  of  the  most  elegant  design.  It  is  built 
of  red  sandstone,  and  the  walls  of  all  rooms  are  of  red  or  cream  colored 
pressed  brick,  wainscoted  with  Texas  pine  and  colored  enamels.  There 
are  forty-four  large  bath  rooms,  in  two  departments,  for  the  respective 
sexes.  Each  bath  room  has  two  compartments.  One  is  lined  with  enamel 
and  set  with  a  porcelain  tub,  having  bronze  appliances  for  readily  supply- 
ing hot,  warm  or  cold,  mineral  water ;  and  hot,  warnV  or  cold,  fresh  water, 
also  showers  of  warm  or  cold  water.  Any  desired  temperature,  from  450  up 
to  1200  Fahrenheit  can  be  supplied.  The  other  compartment  is  furnished 
as  a  dressing  room,  and  provided  with  a  settee  for  reclining  after  the  bath. 
These  compartments  have  high  ceilings  and  are  well  lighted  from  elevated 
windows  by  day,  and  by  incandescent  electric  lamps  at  night.  Light  re- 
freshments are  served  in  each  room  by  attendants  summoned  by  electric 
bells.  Massage  treatment  is  administered  in  a  room  for  that  purpose. 
Besides  the  bath  rooms,  the  building  contains  handsome  sitting  and  smok- 
ing rooms  with  open  fires,  physician's  room,  billiard  room,  coffee  kitchen, 


52  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

linen  rooms,  hair  dressing  rooms,  laundry,  etc.  All  rooms  are  kept  supplied 
with  fresh  air  at  an  equable  temperature  throughout  the  year.  Every 
accessory  for  the  luxurious  and  health-giving  bath  is  provided  in  the  build- 
ing. The  baths  are  supplied  from  the  main  spring,  which  yields  a  constant 
flow  of  2,500,000  gallons  per  day  of  highly  mineralized  hot  water,  at  a 
temperature  of  124.20  Fahrenheit.  This  water  is  a  remarkable  remedial 
agent,  aiding  or  effecting  cures  of  scrofula,  rheumatism,  gout,  lead  poison- 
ing, diabetes,  Bright's  disease,  and  all  skin  and  blood  diseases.  The  new 
bath  house  stands  on  the  margin  of  the  Mammoth  Swimming  Pool. 

The  Bathing'  Pool.  This  is  remarkable  for  its  size  and  the  com- 
pleteness of  its  conveniences.  It  is  nearly  six  hundred  feet  in  length,  by 
one  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  width  at  the  widest  part.  Its  depth  gradually 
increases  from  three  and  one-half  feet  at  one  end  to  six  feet  at  the  other. 
The  walls  are  of  red  sandstone,  and  the  bottom  is  paved  with  hard  pressed 
brick.  Its  surface  area  is  43,000  square  feet,  or  one  acre  ;  and  the  capacity, 
1,500,000  gallons.  It  is  constantly  supplied  with  mineral  water  from  the 
main  and  Yampa  Springs,  and  kept  at  a  temperature  of  about  950  Fahren- 
heit. There  are  one  hundred  and  thirteen  dressing  rooms,  in  separate 
departments  for  the  sexes.  These  are  warmed  in  winter,  and  a  hooded  way 
leads  into  the  water.  At  night  the  pool  is  brilliantly  lighted  by  arc  electric 
lights.  Bathing  suits  are  supplied  at  a  moderate  charge.  Thousands  who 
have  tried  bathing  in  the  pool  pronounce  it  the  most  delightful  of  baths. 
The  exercise  which  it  admits  of  while  bathing  is  deemed  especially  bene- 
ficial to  many  kinds  of  invalids. 

The  Vapor  Caves.  A  remarkable  feature  of  these  springs  are  the 
vapor  caves  —  natural  openings  in  the  rocks  to  which  the  steam  from  the 
hot  springs  obtains  access.  In  one  of  these  natural  caves  the  company  has 
erected  a  unique  vapor  bath  house  with  ample  dressing  rooms,  a  number  of 
private  vapor  rooms,  shower  bath  room,  etc.,  all  lighted  by  electric  lights, 
affording  vapor  baths  in  either  cave  or  private  rooms  at  a  temperature  of 
1050  to  110°  Fahrenheit.  These  baths  are  not  only  a  luxury  to  those  who 
are  well,  but  are  especially  recommended  by  physicians  for  a  number  of 
serious  ailments. 

Aspen  Branch.  Extending  from  Glenwood  Springs  in  a  southerly 
direction  is  the  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  Aspen,  and 
its  wonderful  mines.     The  following  points  are  on  this  line. 

Carbondale.  Situated  at  the  confluence  of  Rock  Creek  and  Roaring 
Fork,  twelve  miles  south  of  Glenwood  Springs.  This  is  the  proposed  point 
for  coking  ovens  and  blast  furnace  to  be  erected  by  the  Colorado  Fuel  & 
Iron  Company.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from  Denver,  379  miles.  Ele- 
vation, 6,181  feet.) 

The  Elk  Mountain  Railway,  starting  at  Carbondale,  where  it 
connects  with  the  Aspen  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  runs 
up  the  valley  of  Rock  Creek,  in  a  southerly  direction,  for  about  twenty-two 
miles,  and  then  in  nearly  an  easterly  line  to  Robinson's  Lake,  thirty  miles 
from  Carbondale.  The  line  will  be  constructed  from  Robinson's  Lake  to 
the  mines  in  the  vicinity  of  Crystal,  in  the  near  future,  making  a  distance 
of  thirty-five  miles  from  Carbondale. 

Avalanche   Creek.     Twelve  miles  from  Carbondale.     This  will  be 


54 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


the  shipping  point  for  silver  and   iron  ores  located  six   to  eight   miles   up 
Avalanche  Creek. 

Penny's  Hot  Spring's.     Fourteen  miles  south  of  Carbondale,  on 

Rock  Creek.     These  springs  are  said  to  be  equal  to  those  of  Glenwood  in 
healing  and  restorative  power. 

Coal  Basin,  Nineteen  miles  from  Carbondale.  At  this  station  all 
the  coal  from  Coal  Basin  will  be  received.  This  is  the  largest  and  finest 
body  of  coking  coal  in  Colorado,  and  is  largely  controlled  by  the  Colorado 
Fuel  &  Iron  Company.  Extensive  coking  ovens  will  be  erected  at  this  point. 
Prospect.  Twenty-one.  miles  from  Carbondale.  At  or  near  this 
point  will  be  located  the  coal  breaker  and  extensive  plant  of  the  Pacific 
Coal  &  Coke  Company,  who  own  the  extensive  anthracite  coal  fields  of 
Chair  Mountain.  This  company  is  preparing  to  ship  five  hundred  tons  of 
anthracite  coal  per  day.  This  coal  is  said  to  be  equal  to  the  best  red  ash 
coal  of  Pennsylvania. 

Robinson's  Lake.  Thirty  miles  from  Carbondale.  At  this  point 
are  located  the  finest  marble  and  slate  quarries  west  of  the  Missouri  River. 
Yule  Creek  joins  Rock  Creek  here,  and  all  the  valuable  silver  ores  of  that 
district  will  be  loaded  here. 

Crystal.  This  is  an  old  mining  camp  and  is  thirty-five  miles  south- 
east from  Carbondale,  on  the  head  waters  of  Rock  Creek.  In  the  vicinity 
of  this  camp  are  located  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  patented  silver  mines. 
It  is  estimated  that  the  output  from  this  district  will  be  one  hundred  tons 
per  day. 

Scenic  Attraction.  The  line  passes  the  base  of  Sopris  Mountain 
and  Chair  Mountain,  and  terminates  in  the  great  elbow  of  the  Elk  Moun- 
tains at  Crystal.  No  finer  scenery  can  be  found  in  the  West.  In  a  ride  of 
two  hours  the  tourist  can  be  transported  from  the  beautiful  valley  of  Roar- 
ing Fork  nearly  to  the  summit  of  the  Elk  Mountain  Range,  and  car  view 
nearly  all  the  prominent  peaks  from  Mount  Massive  west. 

Returning  to  Carbondale,  the  stations  on  the  main  line  to  Aspen  are  as 
follows:  Emma,  Snow  Mass  and  Woody  Creek. 

Aspen,  the  county  seat  of  Pitkin  County,  is 
located  in  one  of  the  most  noted  mining  regions 
of  Colorado,  seventy-five  miles  northwest  from 
Buena  Vista,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Aspen 
branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 
The  valleys  of  the  Roaring  Fork  River  and  its 
confluents,  Castle,  Hunter's  and  Maroon  Creeks, 
are  especially  fitted  for  agriculture,  and  the  hills 
and  mesas  adjacent  form  a  fine  range  for  stock, 
which  in  addition  to  the  mining  interests  will 
surely  make  Aspen  one  of  the  most  prosperous 
cities  in  the  State.  Stores  and  shops  of  all  kinds,  carrying  large  lines  of 
goods,  are  abundant,  and  the  business  done  here  would  do  credit  to  a  town 
boasting  five  times  its  present  population.  The  good  faith  of  the  people  is 
manifested  by  the  character  of  the  buildings  they  have  erected.  It  is  a 
town  of  beautiful  homes,  and  has  most  excellent  society.  All  the  principal 
religious  denominations  have  suitable  houses  of  worship,  and  the  public 
schools  are  of  an   excellent  order.     The   hotels  are  good,  there    is   a   fine 


ASPEN. 

Great  Mining  Town. 

Health   and   Pleasure 
Resort. 

Population,  11,000. 

Elevation,  7,874  feet. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
408  miles. 


TO    THE   GOLD  EX  GATE. 


55 


Opera  house,  and  the  town  is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  Castle  Creek. 
An  electric  light  plant  illuminates  the  principal  places  of  business  as  well 
as  the  streets.  The  climate  is  delicious  and  especially  beneficial  in  all 
pulmonary  complaints.  Aspen  is  a  garden  town,  and  displays  many  beau- 
tiful lawns,  sprinkled  and  beautified  by  flowers. 

The  main  industry  of  Pitkin  County,  of  which  Aspen  is  the  county  seat, 
is  mining.  The  town  is  situated  upon  the  great  zone  or  belt  which  passes 
through  the  country  in  a  northeasterly  and  southwesterly  course,  and  has 
tributary  territory  for  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  each  way.  The  ores  are 
of  good  grade  and  are  found  in  remarkably  large  deposits.  The  Great 
Central  lead,  with  its  spurs  and  lateral  feeders,  resembles  a  river  with  many 

branches.  Silver  and  lead 
are  the  principal  min- 
eral products,  although 
gold  has  been  found  and 
profitably  worked  at  In- 
dependence, in  the  east- 
ern part  of  the  county, 
and  the  Iron  ores  at 
Cooper's  Camp,  in  the 
southwestern  part,  are 
found  in  immense  de- 
posits, and  are  of  the 
very  finest  quality.  Build- 
ing stone  is  found,  and 
the  rock  is  unsurpassed 
in  texture  or  color,  and 
the  surrounding  hills 
will  be  great  producers 
for  outside  markets. 
Some  coal  is  found  in 
Pitkin  County,  but  not 
in  extensive  measures  as 
in  Garfield,  the  great  coal 
county  of  the  United 
States,  which  adjoins  up- 
on the  north.  There  is 
no  territory  of  similar 
area  with  richer  or  more 
varied  products  than  Pit- 
kin County.  The  scenery 
around  this  thriving  city 
is  wonderfully  varied  and 
beautiful.  Situated  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains, 
and  surrounded  by  the 
most  wonderful  works  of 
nature.  Aspen  will  always 
bean  attractive  place  to 

MARBLE  CANON.  thc  tOUrist    a,ul    the   l0Ver 


56  OVER    THE  RANGE 

of  the  grand  and  marvelous.  Hunting  and  fishing  are  found  here  in  their 
perfection.  Nature  seems  to  have  made  Aspen  her  favorite  child,  and  has 
poured  out  at  her  feet  all  the  rich  gifts  of  her  cornucopia.  (Population, 
11,000.     Distance  from  Denver,  408  miles.     Elevation,  7,874  feet.) 

Returning  to  Glenwood  Springs,  we  cross  to  the  western  bank  of  the 
river,  and  resume  our  journey  towards  the  Occident,  down  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Grand. 

New  Castle.  Here  are  located  extensive  coal  mines  and  coking 
ovens  of  the  Colorado  Fuel  &  Iron  Company.  (Distance  from  Denver,  379 
miles.     Population,  1,500.     Elevation,  5,560  feet.) 

Rifle.  The  debarking  point  for  Meeker  and  other  points  reached  by 
stage  lines.  Excellent  hunting  and  fishing  grounds  surround  Rifle  in  all 
directions.  Elk,  deer,  bear,  trout  and  all  kinds  of  game  are  in  abundance. 
(Distance  from  Denver,  393  miles.     Population,  200.     Elevation,  5,500  feet.) 

The  Grand  Valley  is  noted  for  its  agricultural  resources,  being 
one  of  the  most  prolific  producing  portions  of  the  state.  All  manner  of 
grains  are  raised  in  great  abundance,  and  the  fruits,  especially  peaches, 
grown  in  this  valley  are  unsurpassed.  The  principal  railroad  points  are 
Parachute  and  DeBeque. 

In  the  Valley  of  the  Grand  River,  and  sur- 


Grand  Junction. 

Chief  City  of 

Grand    River    Valley,    at 

Junction  of  Grand  and 

Gunnison    Rivers. 

Population,  4,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
456  miles,  via   Standard 

Gauge  Line;  425  miles 
via  Narrow  Gauge  Line. 

Elevation,  4,594  feet. 

Eating  Station. 


rounded  by  a  fertile  and  well  watered  country, 
Grand  Junction  is  the  leading  city  of  western 
Colorado.  An  extensive  system  of  irrigating 
ditches  has  been  established,  and  all  the  land 
under  these  ditches  taken  up,  and  most  of  it 
cultivated.  The  comparatively  low  altitude  of 
this  valley  (it  being  the  lowest  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains  with  but  one  exception  in  Utah) 
makes  it  especially  adapted  to  the  cultivation 
of  fruit.  Peaches,  grapes,  apricots,  pears  and 
small  fruits  flourish  here  in  great  luxuriance, 
and  most  of  the  farmers  have  planted  orchards 
and  vineyards  of  greater  or  less  extent.  The 
usual  farm  products  thrive  in  the  valley,  and  large  crops  can  be  counted  on 
with  the  greatest  confidence.  Grand  Junction  is  the  county  seat  of  Mesa 
County,  and  has  business  and  public  buildings  of  a  substantial  character. 
Shade  trees  have  been  planted  on  each  side  of  the  streets,  giving  the  town 
a  most  pleasing  and  attractive  appearance.  There  is  one  thing  sure  about 
the  Grand  River  Valley,  and  that  is,  it  will  never  want  for  water;  and  with 
plenty  of  water  for  irrigation  secured,  the  future  prosperity  of  the  valley 
and  the  consequent  growth  of  Grand  Junction  are  both  assured.  Back  in 
the  hills  great  herds  are  pastured,  and  extensive  coal  mines  and  large 
natural  gas  wells  add  to  the  many  resources  of  this  thriving  city. 

Grand  Junction  is  well  named,  for  here  is  the  converging  point  of  the 
standard  and  narrow-gauge  lines  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
with  the  Rio  Grande  Western  line  for  Ogden,  Salt  Lake  and  the  Pacific 
Coast,  as  well  as  the  confluence  of  the  two  largest  rivers  in  Colorado,  the 
Gunnison  and  the  Grand. 

Fruita  is  the  next  station  to  the  west,  and  while  the  town  does  not 
appear  to  amount  to  a  great  deal,  yet  the  experiment  which  is  being  carried 


TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


57 


GRAND   CANON    OF  THE   COLORADO. 


on  here  is  of  interest  to  all.  The  experiment  to  which  reference  has  been 
made  is  that  of  fruit  culture,  the  effort  being  to  prove  this  valley  as  well 
fitted  for  this  purpose  as  Utah.  So  far  the  experiments  have  been  success- 
ful. (Population,  ioo.  Distance  from  Denver,  436  miles.  Elevation,  4,523  feet.) 
The  Colorado  Desert.  For  a  stretch  of  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  beyond  Fruita  no  agricultural  country  will  be  seen  —  over  one 
hundred  miles  of  this,  in  fact,  is  known  as  the  "Colorado  Desert."  But  well 
informed  people  assert  that  all  this  desert  needs  to  be  made  fertile  is 
irrigation.  Water  can  be  got  on  this  land  from  the  Grand  River,  and  per- 
haps before  another  decade  has  passed  away  the  "Colorado  Desert"  will 


5S 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


be  ranked  with   that  geographical   myth  of  twenty  years  ago,  "The  Great 
American  Desert-" 

The  Book  Cliffs.  The  intervening  space  of  one  hundred  miles 
between  the  Grand  River  and  the  Green  would  be  monotonous  were  it  not 
for  the  glimpses  one  obtains,  to  the  left,  of  the  snow-crowned  San  Rafael 


CASTLE  GATE. 


and  Sierra  La  Sal  Mountains,  and  the  constant  presence,  to  the  right,  of  the 
multiform  and  varicolored  Book  Cliffs.  These  Cliffs  are  the  northern  shore 
of  what  in  former  ages  must  have  been  a  great  inland  sea,  across  whose 
basin  the  railroad  runs.  They  vary  in  altitude  from  seven  thousand  to  nine 
thousand  feet  and  divide  the  waters  of  the  Grand  River  from  those  of  the 
White,  extending  two  hundred  miles  from  east  to  west.  There  are  no 
stations  of  any  importance  between  Grand  Junction  and  Green  River,  the 
train  pausing  in  transit  only  for  water. 

Green  River.     This  is  an  eating  station,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  59 

Green  River,  and  on  alighting  from  the  cars  the  traveler  is  astonished  at 
the  elegance  of  the  hotel  and  the  beauty  of  its  surroundings,  situated,  as  it 
is,  away  out  on  the  edge  of  the  desert.  A  handsome  lawn  of  shaven  grass 
surrounds  the  hotel,  ornamented  with  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers.  All  the  mod- 
ern conveniences  are  to  be  found  within,  even  to  the  latest  style  of  electric 
light,  and  one  of  the  best  meals  to  be  found  on  the  entire  journey  is  here  set 
before  the  traveler.  The  hotel  buildings  are  owned  by  the  railroad  com- 
pany, and  no  pains  have  been  spared  to  make  everything  first  class.  Green 
River  is  a  shipping  point  of  considerable  importance  for  stock.  From 
Green  River  a  stage  line  runs  to  the  new  gold  discoveries  in  the  Henry 
Mountains  to  the  south.  (Population,  nominal.  Distance  from  Denver,  531 
miles.     Elevation,  4,069  feet.) 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado.  From  the  bridge  across  Green 
River  the  traveler,  can,  if  the  day  is  clear,  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  rugged  walls 
of  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  scarcely  fifty  miles  to  the  southward. 

Climbing'  the  Wasatch  Range.  From  Green  River  to  Soldier 
Summit,  a  distance  of  ninety-nine  miles,  the  grade  is  a  constant  ascent,  the 
scenery  growing  wilder  and  more  varied  as  the  advance  is  made.  The 
road  extends  to  the  northward,  and,  after  passing  Sphinx,  Desert  Switch 
and  Cliff  Siding,  unimportant  side  tracks,  reaches  Lower  Crossing,  twenty- 
five  miles  from  Green  River. 

Lower  Crossing  is  situated  on  Price  River  in  the  midst  of  interest- 
ing scenery.  Stock  raising  is  tributary  to  the  town.  (Population  nominal. 
Distance  from  Denver,  556  miles.     Elevation,  4,630  feet.) 

Price.  Situated  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Price  River,  the  town  has  a 
very  fertile  valley,  though  of  limited  extent,  surrounding  it.  What  arable 
land  there  is  has  been  carefully  utilized,  and  large  crops  of  potatoes,  alfalfa, 
oats  and  vegetables  are  raised  here,  through  the  aid  of  irrigation.  There 
are  mines  of  asphaltum  to  the  northward,  which  are  worked  extensively, 
and  the  product  shipped  to  the  east.  Price  is  also  an  important  shipping 
point  for  cattle  and  sheep.  The  scenery  here  is  very  attractive,  and  the 
hunting  and  fishing  are  excellent.  (Population,  100.  Distance  from  Den- 
ver, 595  miles.     Elevation,  5,547  feet.) 

Fort  Du  Chesne.  Eighty  miles  to  the  northward  from  Price,  on 
the  Uintah  and  Uncompahgre  Indian  reservation,  is  Fort  Du  Chesne,  the 
Government  post,  supplies  for  which  are  forwarded  from  Price.  Fort  Du 
Chesne,  has  four  companies  of  infantry  and  two  of  cavalry,  numbering  in 
all  three  hundred  men.  There  are  4,000,000  acres  in  the  reservation,  all  of 
which  are  at  the  service  of  only  2,500  Indians. 

Helper.  End  of  the  railroad  divisions  and  dining  station.  (Popula- 
tion, 500.     Elevation,  6,000  feet.) 

Eleven  miles  beyond  Price  station  the 
I  train  enters  the  famous  portals  of  Castle  Gate, 
which  stand  at  the  entrance  of  the  Price  River 
Canon.  Castle  Gate  is  similar  in  many  re- 
spects to  the  gateway  in  the  Garden  of  Gods. 
The  two  huge  pillars,  or  ledges  of  rock  com- 
posing it,  are  offshoots  of  the  cliffs  behind. 
They  are  of  different  heights,  one  measuring 
five  hundred,  and  the  other  four  hundred  and 


CASTLE   GATE. 

Entrance  to 

Price  River  Canon. 

Height,  500  feet. 


60  OVER    THE  RANGE 

fifty  feet,  from  top  to  base.  They  are  richly  dyed  with  red,  and  the  firs  and 
pines  growing  about  them,  but  reaching  only  to  their  lower  strata,  render 
this  coloring  more  noticeable  and  beautiful.  Between  the  two  sharp  pro- 
montories, which  are  separated  only  by  ;i  narrow  space,  the  river  and  the 
railway  both  run,  one  pressing  closely  against  the  other.  The  stream  leaps 
over  a  rocky  bed,  and  its  banks  are  lined  with  tangled  brush.  Once  past 
the  gate,  and  looking  back,  the  bold  headlands  forming  it  have  a  new  and 
more  attractive  beauty.  They  are  higher  and  more  massive,  it  seems,  than 
when  we  were  in  their  shadow.  No  other  pinnacles  approach  them  in  size  or 
majesty.  They  are  landmarks  up  and  down  the  canon,  their  lofty  tops  catch- 
ing the  eye  before  their  bases  are  discovered.  It  was  down  Price  River 
Canon,  and  past  Castle  Gate,  that  Albert  Sidney  Johnston  marched  his  army 
home  from  Utah.  For  miles  now,  and  until  the  mountains  are  crossed,  the 
route  chosen  by  the  General  is  closely  followed.  The  gateway  is  hardly  lost 
to  view  by  a  turn  in  the  canon  before  we  were  scaling  the  wooded  heights. 
The  river  is  never  lost  sight  of.  The  cliffs  which  hem  us  in  are  filled  with 
curious  forms.  Now  there  is  seen  a  mighty  castle,  with  moats  and  towers, 
loopholes  and  wall;  now  a  gigantic  head  appears.  At  times  side  canons, 
smaller  than  the  one  we  are  in,  lead  to  verdant  heights  beyond,  where  game 
of  every  variety  abounds. 

Kyune.  Large  stone  quarries  are  worked  here.  (Distance  from 
Denver,  614  miles.) 

Pleasant  Valley  Junction.  This  little  town  is  situated  in  the 
midst  of  rich  and  extensive  coal  measures.  A  branch  road  runs  to  the 
coal  mines  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  to  the  southward.  The  coal  is 
valuable  for  coking,  and  is  used  in  the  various  smelters  of  the  territory. 
(Population,  200.     Distance  from  Denver,  620  miles.     Elevation,  7,177  feet.) 

Coal  Branch.  From  Pleasant  Valley  Junction  the  Coal  Branch 
extends  to  Mud  Creek,  a  distance  of  20  miles.  The  intervening  stations  are 
Hale,  Schofield  and  Coal  Mine.  The  chief  business  of  the  road  is  the 
transportation  of  coal,  which  is  mined  extensively  here. 

Soldier  Summit.  Here  we  are  on  the  highest  railroad  point  on  the 
Wasatch  Range.  Good  pasturage  covers  the  mountain  tops,  and  great 
herds  of  cattle,  horses  and  sheep  graze  here  among  the  sage  brush.  The 
scenery  here  is  wild  and  picturesque,  and  the  view  is  wide,  embracing  a 
great  sweep  of  serrated  mountain  summits.  (Population,  nominal.  Dis- 
tance from  Denver,  627  miles.  Elevation,  7,465  feet.)  From  this  point  the 
descent  is  made  to  the  Utah  Valley. 

Red  Narrows.  Here  the  cliffs  rise  on  each  side  of  the  track, 
assuming  fantastic  forms,  and  glowing  with  varied  colors,  among  which  red 
is  predominant ;  hence,  the  name. 

Thistle  Junction.  This  is  the  junction  point  of  the  main  line 
and  the  San  Pete  Valley  branch  extending  to  Salina.  (Population,  500. 
Elevation,  5,043  feet.     Distance  from  Denver,  652  miles.) 

The  San  Pete  Valley  Branch  of  the  Rio  Grande  Western  starts 
toward  the  vast  mines  and  quarries,  grain  fields  and  fruit  gardens  that  lie 
toward  the  south  from  Thistle.  Glance  lor  a  moment  down  this  branch  line. 
Two  miles  from  Thistle  is  Asphaltum  station,  where  there  is  a  bed  of  nearly 
pure  asphaltum,  covering  a  scpiare  mile,  and  from  eight  to  fourteen  feet 
thick.     Six  miles  further,  and  at  Nebo  a  view  is  caught  of  Mount  Nebo,  one 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  61 

of  the  tallest  and  grandest  peaks  in  Utah,  snow-capped  all  the  year.  About 
a  mile  below  Nebo  the  road  enters  the  Indian  Reservation,  and  six  miles 
onward  is  Indianola,  around  which  cluster  the  adobe  houses  and  tepees  of 
a  branch  of  the  great  Ute  tribe,  whence  Utah  has  its  name.  They  do  a  little 
farming  and  stock-raising,  and  a  good  deal  of  hunting  and  fishing,  and,  all 
things  considered,  are  generally  doing  well.  Whirling  on  through  twenty 
miles  of  pastures  and  farms,  past  Hilltop  and  Milburn,  at  Fairview  a  glor- 
ious view  of  the  San  Pete  Valley,. "the  granary  of  Utah,"  bursts  upon  the 
enchanted  eye.  The  whole  country  for  fifty  miles  is  a  mingling  of  field  and 
garden.  Only  two  miles  more,  and  the  train  sweeps  into  Mount  Pleasant, 
nestled  in  peach  and  apricot,  apple,  pear  and  plum  trees,  all  bowed  down 
with  their  loads  of  fruit.  The  town  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on 
a  commanding  site.  It  has  about  3,000  population,  a  flouring-mill  and 
planing  mill,  and  is  the  seat  of  Wasatch  Academy,  a  Presbyterian  school 
of  some  repute.  Five  miles  in  twelve  minutes,  and  Spring  City  is  passed, 
with  great  masses  of  snow-crowned  mountains  east  and  southeast  of  it,  and, 
in  ten  miles  more,  Ephraim's  bowers  of  fruit  and  shade  are  entered.  In  a 
population  of  2,200,  there  are  800  school  children,  besides  all  those  too 
young  for  schooling.  A  new  depot,  new  hotel  and  many  other  new  build- 
ings tell  the  story  of  prosperity. 

A  dash  of  six  miles  onward,  and  Manti  is  reached,  with  2,300  people, 
and  hardly  a  poor  man  among  them.  Here,  at  the  top  of  four  lofty  terraces 
hewn  from  the  mountain  side,  stands  the  magnificent  Mormon  temple, 
which  has  cost  $2,500,000,  and  is  only  second  to  the  one  in  Salt  Lake  City. 
It  is  nearly  two  hundred  feet  long,  one  hundred  wide  and  one  hundred  high, 
with  massive  towers  at  each  end  rising  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  in 
the  air.  It  is  built  of  snow-white  oolite,  quarried  out  of  the  site  on  which  it 
stands,  and  the  whole  workmanship  is  exquisite.  It  can  be  plainly  seen  for 
forty  miles  up  and  down  the  valley.  A  hot  spring,  on  the  edge  of  the  town, 
pours  out  a  hundred  cubic  feet  a  minute  of  water  gifted  with  remarkable 
medicinal  qualities.  Just  below  Manti  are  the  strange  "Saleratus  Beds," 
where  for  two  miles  or  more  the  road  runs  through  vast  deposits  of  soda 
pure  enough  for  cooking  purposes. 

The  train  rushes  on  through  a  continuous  succession  of  grain  fields  and 
orchards.  Sterling,  Gunnison  and  Willow  Creek  are  passed,  the  Sevier 
Valley  is  entered,  and  the  locomotive  screams  its  greeting  to  Salina,  the 
present  terminus  of  the  branch.  Just  back  of  the  town  are  mountains  of 
rock  salt,  much  of  it  as  clear  as  crystal,  and  absolutely  pure.  Millions  on 
millions  of  tons  of  it  can  be  blasted  out  as  cheap  as  dirt.  About  a  mile 
south  of  these  mountainous  monuments  to  the  memory  of  Lot's  wife  is  a 
mountain  of  almost  pure  gypsum,  and  there  is  a  kaolin  enough  to  furnish 
all  the  potteries  and  candy-makers  of  the  world.  The  whole  region  abounds 
with  game  and  fish.      Returning  again  to  the  main  line  we  find  that  the 

Spanish  Fork  Canon  is  charmingly  picturesque,  and  a  spot 
which  would  delight  the  artist.  It  is  characterized  by  fresh  foliage,  soft 
contours,  charming  contrasts,  and  sparkling  waters.  Emerging  from  the 
canon  the  traveler  realizes  that  one  sta^e  of  his  mountain  journey  has  been 
achieved,  and  before  him  lies  one  of  the  most  fertile  valleys  in  the  world. 

Utah   Valley.      This  favored  spot  presents  the  appearance  of  a  well- 


62  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

cultivated  park.  It  has  an  Arcadian  beauty,  and  resembles  the  vales  of 
Scotland.     In  the  centre  rests  Utah  Lake,  where 

"...  the  stars  and  mountains  view 
The  stillness  of  their  aspect  in  each  trace 
Its  clear  depth  yields  of  their  far  height  and  hue." 

A  little  back  from  the  lake  stand  the  towns  of  Provo  and  Springville, 
shaded  by  the  near  peaks  of  the  range.  Utah  Valley  possesses  a  fertile 
soil,  a  delightful  climate,  and  is  one  of  the  best  farming  sections  of  Utah: 
Fruit  trees  and  grape  vines  grow  as  readily  as  hay  and  cereals.  Eastward 
the  oblong-shaped  basin  is  shut  in  by  the  Wasatch  Mountains;  and  on  the 
west  in  the  Oquirrh  Range.  Northward  are  low  hills,  or  mesas,  crossing 
the  valley  and  separating  it  from  that  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake;  while  in  the 
south,  the  east  and  west  ranges  approach  each  other  and  form  blue-tinted 
walls  of  uneven  shape.  To  the  left  of  this  barrier  Mount  Nebo,  highest 
and  grandest  of  the  Utah  peaks,  rises  majestically  above  all  surroundings. 
Its  summit  sparkles  with  snow,  its  lower  slopes  are  wooded  and  soft,  while 
from  it,  and  extending  north  and  south,  run  vast,  broken,, vari-colored  con- 
freres. The  valley  is  like  a  well-kept  garden  ;  farm  joins  farm  ;  crystal 
streams  water  it;  and  scattered  about  in  rich  profusion  are  long  lines  of 
fruit  trees,  amid  which  are  trim,  white  houses.  All  these  evidences  of 
prosperity  testify  to  the  virtues  of  industry,  frugality  and  perseverance, 
which  no  one  can  deny  are  possessed  by  the  Mormon  farmers. 

Spanish  Fork.  This  is  the  first  town  in  Utah  Valley  that  the  west- 
bound tourist  enters.  It  is  situated  on  the  Spanish  Fork  River,  and  is  a 
most  pleasant  rural  village.  Fruit  and  shade  trees  abound.  Agricultural, 
horticultural,  and  pastoral  industries  are  pursued  by  the  inhabitants.  Vine- 
yards nourish,  wine  is  made,  dairy  products  are  a  specialty,  and  the  cereals 
and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  are  cultivated.  (Population,  2,500.  Distance 
from  Denver,  664  miles.     Elevation,  4,721  feet.) 

Springville.  This  is  another  typical  Mormon  town.  It  is  only  four 
miles  from  Spanish  Fork,  and  naturally  possesses  similar  characteristics. 
The  town  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  a  strong  hot  spring  pours  its 
waters  into  a  stream  just  above  the  town,  in  Hobble  Canon.  The  water 
does  not  freeze  in  winter,  and  thus  a  flouring  mill  run  by  it  is  enabled  to 
work  the  year  round.  (Population,  2,500.  Distance  from  Denver,  667 
miles.     Elevation,  4,565  feet.) 

Tintic  Branch  extends  southward  from  Springville,  on  through 
Payson  and  Goshen,  a  region  rich  in  all  agricultural  productions.  West  of 
Goshen,  the  branch  line  enters  Pinon  Canon,  and  runs  for  ten  miles  through 
as  wild  and  rugged  scenes  as  can  be  found  in  all  this  region  of  scenic 
wonders.  The  track  through  the  canon  is  a  dizzy  puzzle  in  engineering. 
It  winds  and  climbs,  twists,  turns  and  wriggles,  and  at  last  absolutely 
crosses  itself  backward  and  forward,  tying  itself  into  a  loop  like  a  double 
bow-knot.  There  are  but  two  similar  track  tangles  in  the  United  States, 
one  in  California  and  the  other  in  Colorado.  Out  of  this  canon  labyrinth, 
the  line  emerges  at  Silver  City  in  the  far-famed  Tintic  mining-camp;  and 
just  on  beyond  that,  will  doubtless  ere  long  rush  its  iron-horse  into  the 
newly  discovered  Deep  Creek  bonanza  region,  whose  richness  is  now  attract- 
ing wide-spread  attention. 


64 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


This  pretty  little  city  belongs  to  the  best 
type  of   Mormon  towns,  and  a  description  of  it 
will  serve  to  give  the  reader  a  good  idea  of  the 
characteristics  of  all  the  towns  built  by  the  Mor- 
mons. The  dwellings,  as  a  rule,  are  comfortable, 
but  not  imposing  in  appearance.     Many  of  them 
are  constructed  of  adobe  or  sun-dried  bricks,  and 
all  are  situated  in  lots  of  generous  proportions 
and  surrounded  by  ornamental  and   fruit  trees. 
Water  for  irrigating  purposes  flows  down  each 
side  of  the  streets,  and  shade  trees  in  abundance 
and  of  luxuriant  growth  render  the  walks  cool 
and  inviting.     Gardens  filled  with  fruits,  flowers  and  vegetables    are  the 
rule,  and  a  quiet,  peaceful,  industrious  semi-rural  life  is  the  good  fortune  of 
the  residents  here.     The  town  is  eminently  fitted  for  a  health  and  pleasure 


PROVO. 

County  Seat  of  Utah  Co. 
Summer  Resort. 

Population,  5,000. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
672   miles. 

Elevation,  4,517  feet. 


SPANISH    FORK. CANON. 


resort,  and  has  also  great  advantages  as  a  manufacturing  centre.  The 
Timpanogas  River  furnishes  unexcelled  water  power,  while  inexhaustible 
supplies  of  artesian  water  are  to  be  found  at  a  depth  of  from  forty  to  two 
hundred  feet.  The  city  has,  in  fact,  the  finest  water  supply  of  any  in  Utah 
Territory.     Provo  has  a  fine  public  school  system  and  is  the  seat  of  the 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


65 


Brigham  Young  Academy,  which  was  amply  endowed  by  the  first  President 
of  the  Mormon  Church,  from  whom  the  school  takes  its  name.  Its  churches 
and  public  buildings,  including  an  opera  house,  are  a  credit  to  its  people, 
who  are  of  a  literary  tasfe  and  inclined  to  liberality  of  thought.  Utah  Lake, 
a  fine  body  of  fresh  water,  lies  to  the  southwest,  and  to  the  north  and  east 
are  the  Wasatch  Mountains.  Farming,  horticulture  and  the  raising  of 
cattle  and  sheep  are  tributary  industries,  while  in  the  town  are  large  saw 
mills,  flouring  mills  and  woolen  mills,  the  most  extensive  in  Utah. 

Utah   Lake.     Mention  has  already  been  made  of  this  beautiful  body 
of  water,  but  the  statistical  traveler  may  want  to  know  something  more 


TRAMWAY    IN    LITTLE   COTTONWOOD   CANON. 

definite  about  its  dimensions.  The  lake  is  thirty  miles  lung,  six  miles  wide, 
and  is  fed  by  the  American  Fork,  Spanish  Fork  and  Provo  Rivers,  and 
Salt,  Peteetweet  and  Hobble  Creeks.  Its  outlet  is  the  Jordan  River  which, 
flowing  northward,  empties  into  Great  Salt  Lake.  There  are  plenty  of  fish 
in  Utah  Lake,  chiefly  trout  and  mullet. 

American  Fork.  On  the  western  extremity  of  Utah  Lake,  is 
American  Fork,  a  thriving  town  beautifully  situated  and  embowered  in 
trees.  Agricultural  and  pastoral  industries  are  tributary  to  its  prosperity. 
(Population,  1,800.  Distance  from  Denver,  685  miles,  Elevation,  4,567 
feet.) 


66  OVER    THE  RANGE. 

Lehi.  Three  miles  from  American  Fork  is  Lehi,  another  thriving 
town  also  on  Utah  Lake.  Fruit  and  shade  trees  abound  and  make  the 
town  a  place  of  sylvan  beauty.  The  same  industries  thrive  here  as  in  the 
sister  town  mentioned  above.  (Population,  3,000.  Distance  from  Denver, 
688  miles.     Elevation,  4,544  feet.) 

Bingham  Junction.  This  station  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Bing- 
ham and  Alta  branches  of  the  road,  and,  therefore,  is  quite  a  bustling  place 
in  the  way  of  railroad  business,  though  it  has  but  a  nominal  population. 
(Distance  from  Denver,  706  miles.     Elevation,  4,366  feet.) 

I  H  ng ha  111  Branch.  This  branch  extends  southwest  to  Bingham,  a 
distance  of  sixteen  miles.  The  intervening  stations  are  Revere,  Lead  Mine 
and  Terra  Cotta. 

Bingham.  The  town  may  almost  be  classed  as  a  suburb  of  Salt 
Lake  City,  as  it  is  less  than  an  hour's  ride  from  the  capital  of  Utah  Territory. 
The  main  industry  of  the  surrounding  population  is  mining.  (Population, 
goo.     Distance  from  Denver,  724  miles.     Elevation,  4,375  feet.) 

Alta  Branch.  This  branch  extends  to  the  northward  from  Bing- 
ham Junction  to  Alta,  a  distance  of  thirty-five  miles.  The  intermediate 
stations  are  Sandy  and  Wasatch.  The  line  passes  through  the  Little 
Cottonwood  Canon  en  route. 

Alta.  This  is  a  mining  town  known  all  round  the  world.  The  place 
is  not  only  entertaining  in  itself,  but  in  its  neighborhood  are  a  large  number 
of  easily  accessible  gorges,  lakes  and  hilltops  full  of  artistic  material  and 
of  trout  fishing ;  or,  if  the  tourist  goes  late  in  the  season,  of  good  shooting 
and  ample  opportunity  for  dangerous  adventures  in  mountaineering.  The 
Little  Cottonwood  canon  is  one  of  those  great  crevices  between  the  peaks 
of  the  Wasatch  Range,  plainly  visible  from  Salt  Lake  City,  and  dis- 
tinguished by  its  white  walls,  which,  when  wet  with  the  morning  dews,  gleam 
like  monstrous  mirrors  as  the  sunlight  reaches  them  from  over  the  top  of 
the  range. 

The  River  Jordan.  After  the  valley  of  Utah  Lake  has  been  left 
behind,  en  route  to  Salt  Lake  City,  on  the  left  of  the  track  is  seen  a  small 
river  of  yellow  water  meandering  through  the  sage  brush  and  volcanic 
scoria.  The  river  is  the  Jordan,  so  called  because  it  connects  the  Utah 
with  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  as  its  namesake  does  Galilee  and  the  Dead  Sea. 

In  July,  1847,  Brigham  Young  stood  on  En- 


SALT  LAKE  CITY. 

Capital   of  Utah 
Territory. 

Population,  50,000. 

Elevation,  4,228  feet. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
716  miles. 


sign  Peak,  the  "  Mount  of  Prophesy,"  and  an- 
nounced to  his  followers  that  down  in  the  valley 
below  should  be  founded  the  new  "City  of 
Zion,"  the  future  home  of  the  Latter  Day  Saints. 
Up  to  1871  the  original  settlers  virtually  lived 
apart  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  This  was 
owing  to  the  religious  views  of  the  Mormons, 
which  made  them  a  peculiar  and  isolated  peo- 
ple. To  mining  is  due  the  first  incursion  of 
Gentile  population,  which  population  has  steadily  increased,  until  at  present 
the  community  of  Salt  Lake  City  differs  but  little  from  any  other  in  its 
social,  business  or  religious  aspect,  except  that  it  possesses,  in  addition  to 
the  accepted  religious  associations  which  exist  elsewhere,  one  which  differs 
from  all  others.     The  city  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Wasatch  Mountains, 


Kffr    "i  r" 


68  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

which  are  a  part  of  the  great  Continental  Range  dividing  the  Far  West 
from  the  plains  which  extend  from  the  base  of  the  Rockies  to  the 
Missouri  River.  The  finest  residence  portion  of  the  city  occupies  the 
mountain  bench,  once  the  shore  of  a  great  inland  sea,  from  which,  ages 
ago,  the  waters  receded  until  they  settled  in  the  basin  of  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  distant  eighteen  miles  from  the  water  marks  yet  plainly  to  be 
seen  above  the  city.  The  location  is  such  as  to  command  a  view  of 
the  entire  valley,  both  ranges  of  mountains,  and  the  southern  portion 
of  the  lake.  The  streets  are  one  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet  wide  and 
bordered  on  each  side  with  long  rows  of  shade  trees.  Streams  of  pure 
water  are  conducted  in  ditches  along  both  sides  of  all  the  streets.  The  busi- 
ness sections  are  well  built,  and  the  business  streets  are  paved.  One  of 
the  largest  business  enterprises  of  the  city  is  the  Cooperative  Establishment. 
For  convenience  it  is  universally  called  the  "Co-op.";  its  title  in  full  is  the 
"  Zion's  Cooperative  Mercantile  Institution."  It  has  a  central  building  for 
headquarters  and  branches  throughout  the  city  and  Territory.  Whenever 
one  sees  a  building  with  the  mystic  initials  "Z.  C.  M.  I."  on  its  sign,  one 
may  know  it  is  a  branch  of  the  great  "Co-op."  The  headquarters  of  this 
institution  are  of  brick,  three  hundred  and  eighteeen  by  fifty-three  feet 
in  size,  three  stories  high,  and  built  over  a  large  cellar.  This  building  is 
crowded  with  merchandise  of  every  description,  and  does  an  extensive 
wholesale  and  retail  business.  "Temple  Square"  is  a  great  attraction  for 
the  tourist.  Here  are  situated  the  Mormon  Temple,  Tabernacle  and 
Assembly  Hall.  The  Tabernacle  is  immense  in  its  proportions,  the  roof 
resembling  an  upturned  boat,  and  is  visible  from  nearly  every  part  of  the 
city.  The  Temple  is,  with  the  single  exception  of  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral 
in  New  York,  the  grandest  and  costliest  ecclesiastical  structure  in  this 
country.  It  was  begun  in  1853,  completed  in  1893  and  cost  nearly  $6,000,000. 
It  is  two  hundred  feet  long,  a  hundred  feet  wide,  and  a  hundred  feet  high, 
with  four  towers,  one  at  each  corner,  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height. 
The  walls  are  ten  feet  thick,  and  the  massiveness  and  solidity  of  its  con- 
struction insure  its  defiance  of  the  ravages  of  time  for  ages  to  come.  It  is 
built  wholly  of  snow-white  granite  from  the  Cottonwood  Canon;  and, 
standing  on  one  of  the  loftiest  points  in  the  city,  can  be  seen  for  fifty 
miles  up  and  down  the  valley.  Near  by  is  the  Bee  Hive,  once  the  home  of 
Brigham  Young  and  opposite  the  house  of  President  Taylor.  The  Hot 
Springs  of  Salt  Lake  are  highly  medicinal,  and  the  large  baths  are 
resorted  to  for  many  ailments.  Within  a  short  radius  of  the  city  the 
attractions  are  varied  and  numerous.  Fort  Douglas,  the  Lake,  Emigration 
City,  Bingham,  Little  and  Big  Cottonwood  Canons  are  easily  reached. 
From  Ensign  Peak  a  panoramic  view  of  the  surrounding  country  is  had. 
One  may  look  from  it  down  the  greater  part  of  Utah's  length,  while  near  at 
hand  lie  the  city  and  lake.  The  Fort  is  also  a  popular  resort,  and  not  only 
commands  an  extensive  view,  but  affords  excellent  opportunities  of  study- 
ing garrison  life.  The  rides,  drives  and  rambles  are  innumerable.  Every 
taste  is  catered  to.  For  those  who  love  grandeur,  there  are  the  mountains, 
with  their  narrow  trails,  secluded  parks,  wild  canons  and  deep  gorges  ;  for 
those  preferring  gentler  aspects,  the  valley,  glowing  with  freshness,  affords 
continual  pleasure  ;  for  those  craving  the  mysterious,  there  is  the  lake,  large, 
silent  and  strange.     The  hotels  are  excellent,  the  climate  unexcelled,  and 


Great 

Salt    Lake. 

Area, 

2,500  square 

miles. 

Mean 

Depth,  20 

feet. 

Specific 

Gravity, 

1. 107. 

Length,  126  m 

iles. 

Breadth,  45   m 

iles. 

70  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

days  may  be  passed  delightfully  in  exploring  and  in  studying  the  wealth  of 
attractions.  There  are  theatres,  reading  rooms,  good  horses,  perfect  order 
and  universal  cleanliness.  Many  of  the  private  houses  are  palatial,  and 
altogether  the  city  is  one  of  rare  beauty  and  interest. 

As  far  as  can  be  learned,  the  first  mention 
in  history  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  was  by  the 
Baron  La  Houtan,  in  1689,  who  gathered  from 
the  Western  Indians  some  vague  notions  of  its 
existence.  Capt.  Bonneville  sent  a  party  from 
Green  River  in  1833  to  make  its  circuit,  but  they 
seem  to  have  given  up  the  enterprise  on  reach- 
ing the  desert  on  the  northwest,  on  which  they 
lost  their  way,  and  after  weeks  of  aimless 
wandering  found  themselves  in  Lower  California. 
To  General  John  C.  Fremont  must  be  given  the 
credit  of  first  navigating  its  waters.  In  1842,  on 
his  way  to  Oregon,  General  Fremont  pushed  out  from  the  mouth  of  Webber 
River,  in  a  rubber  boat,  for  the  nearest  island.  He  found  it  to  be  a  desolate 
rock,  fourteen  miles  in  circumference  and  named  it  Disappointment  Island. 
Captain  Stansbury,  on  a  subsequent  visit,  re-named  it  Fremont's  Island, 
which  name  is  retained.  In  1850  Captain  Stansbury  spent  three  months  in 
making  a  detailed  survey  of  the  Lake,  its  shores  and  islands.  In  brief,  he 
found  the  west  shore  a  salt-encrusted  desert;  the  north  shore  composed  of 
wide  salt  marshes,  overflowed  under  steady  winds  from  the  south;  the  east 
shore  possessed  good,  irrigable  lands;  the  south  shore  was  set  with  moun- 
tain ranges  standing  endways  towards  the  lake,  with  the  grassy  valleys, 
Spring,  Toelle  and  Jordan,  intervening.  The  principal  islands  are  Ante- 
lope and  Stansbury,  rocky  ridges  ranging  north  and  south,  rising  abruptly 
from  the  water  to  a  height  of  three  thousand  feet.  Antelope  is  the  nearest 
to  Salt  Lake  City,  and  is  sixteen  miles  long.  Stansbury  is  twenty  miles  to 
the  westward  and  is  twelve  miles  in  length.  Both  have  springs  of  fresh 
water  and  good  range  for  the  stock,  with  which  they  are  now  covered. 
( )f  minor  islands  there  are  Fremont,  Carrington,  Gunnison,  Dolphin,  Mud, 
Egg  and  Hat,  besides  several  small  insular  promontories  without  names. 
The  first  white  man's  boat  to  navigate  the  lake  was  probably  that  of  Fre- 
mont;  Captain  Stansbury  came  next  with  his  exploring  boat  curiously 
named  the  "Salicornia"  ;  next  in  order  were  the  Walker  brothers,  mer- 
chants of  Salt  Lake  City,  who  sailed  for  some  years  a  lonesome  pleasure 
yacht.  There  is  now  a  considerable  yachting  fleet,  which  is  yearly  growing 
in  size.  The  lake  covers  an  area  of  2,500  square  miles.  Its  mean  depth 
does  not  probably  exceed  twenty  feet,  while  the  deepest  place  between 
Antelope  and  Stansbury  is  60  feet.  These  two  principal  islands  used  to  be 
accessible  from  the  shore  by  wagon,  but  now  boats  must  be  used.  From 
1847  to  1856  the  lake  gradually  filled  five  or  six  feet,  and  then  slowly  sub- 
sided to  its  old  level.  In  1863  it  began  to  fill  again,  and  in  four  or  five  years 
reached  a  point  considerably  higher  than  its  present  level,  perhaps  four  or 
five  feet.  In  the  year  1875  a  pillar  was  set  up  at  Black  Rock,  by  which  to 
measure  the  rise  and  fall,  resembling  a  tide,  but  having  no  ascertained  time. 
It  is  very  slight  compared  what  it  formerly  was.  Professor  Gilbert  of  the 
Geological  Survey,  says  that  twice  within  recent  geological  time  it  has  risen 


72 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


nearly  a  thousand  feet  higher  than  its  present  stage,  and,  of  course,  covered 
vastly  more  ground.  He  calls  that  lake  after  Captain  Bonneville,  the  origi- 
nal explorer  of  these  regions,  and  whom  Irving  has  immortalized,  Lake 
Bonneville.  Causes  which  learned  men  assign  as  producing  what  they  call 
a  glacial  period  might  easily  fill  the  lake  until  it  extended  nearly  the  whole 
length  of  Utah.  During  the  last  high  stage,  Professor  Gilbert  says  there  were 
active  volcanoes  in  it.  It  is  generally  agreed  that  its  first  outbreak  was  via 
Marsh  Creek,  and  the  Portneuf  into  the  Snake.  At  the  present  height  of 
that  channel  (where  the  Utah  and  Northern  passes  out  of  Cache  Valley)  it 
remained  a  long  time  stationary  and  then  seems  to  have  receded  rapidly  to 
a  second  stationary  point,  and  so  on  down  to  its  present  stage.  There  is  one 
very  heavy  beach-mark  on  all  the  hills  surrounding  its  extended  area  and  on 
the  hills,  which  were  then  islands,  and  a  curious  thing  is  the  fact  that  this 
beach-mark  varies  in  altitude  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  feet, 
showing  that  the  earth  in  this  valley  is  still  far  from  having  reached  a 
stable  equilibrium. 

The  most  mysterious  thing  about  this  inland  sea,  aside  from  its  salti- 
ness, is  the  fact  that  it  has  no  known  outlet.  A  great  number  of  fresh 
water  streams  pour  into  the  lake  from  all  sides,  yet  the  water  remains  salt 
and  the  lake  does  not  overflow.  The  saline  or  solid  matter  held  in  solution 
by  the  water  varies  as  the  lake  rises  and  subsides.  In  1842  Fremont 
obtained  "fourteen  pints  of  very  white  salt"  from  five  gallons  of  the  water 
evaporated  over  a  camp  fire.  The  salt  was  also  very  pure,  assaying  97.80 
fine.  In  1850  Dr.  L.  D.  Gale  analyzed  a  sample  of  it  which  yielded  20  per 
cent,  of  pure  common  salt,  and  about  2  per  cent,  of  foreign  salts,  chlorides 
of  lime  and  magnesia.  Sergeant  Smart,  U.  S.  A.,  analyzed  a  sample  in 
1877,  and  found  an  imperial  gallon  to  contain  nearly  2\l/2  ounces  of  saline 
matter,  amounting  to  fourteen  per  cent.,  as  follows : 


Common  salt 1 1-735 

Lime  carbonate .016 

Lime  sulphate .073 

Epsom  salt 1-123 

Chloride  of  magnesia .843 

Percentage  of  solids. —  13-79° 

Water 86.210 


One  hundred  grains  of  the  dry 
solid  matter  contained  : 

Common  salt 85.089 

Lime  carbonate .117 

Lime  sulphate -531 

Epsom  salt 8.145 

Chloride  of  magnesia 6.1 18 


It   compares   with   other  saline 
waters  about  as  follows  : 


Atlantic  Ocean-. 
Mediterranean  -- 

Dead  Sea 

Great  Salt  Lake- 


Water. 

96.5 
96.2 
76. 
86.2 


Solid. 

-  3-5 

-  3-8 
..  24. 

-  13-8 


And  in  specific  gravity,  distilled 
water  being  unity : 


Ocean  water 1.026 

Dead  Sea 1.116 

Great  Salt  Lake 1.107 


The  solid  matter  in  the  water  varies  between  spring  and  fall,  between 
dry  and  wet  seasons,  and  also  between  different  parts  of  the  lake,  for  nearly 
all  the  fresh  water  is  received  from  the  Wasatch  on  the  east.  It  is  the 
opinion  of  salt  makers  that  an  average  of  the  lake  at  its  present  stage 
would  show  the  presence  of  17  per  cent,  of  solid  matter. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 


73 


Salt  Lake  has  become  a  fashionable  bathing  resort.  In  the  long  sunn} 
days  of  June,  July,  August  and  September,  the  water  becomes  deliciously 
warm,  much  warmer  in  fact  than  the  ocean,  and  this  pleasant  temperature  is 
reached  a  month  earlier  and  remains  a  month  later.  The  water  is  so  dense 
that  one  is  sustained  without  effort,  and  vigorous  constitutions  experience 
no  inconvenience  from  remaining  in  it  a  long  time.  A  more  delightful  and 
healthy  exercise  than  buffeting  its  waves  when  it  is  a  little  rough  can 
hardly  be  imagined.  There  is  a  magnificent  bathing  resort  on  the  Lake, 
near  Salt  Lake  City. 


BEE   HIVE   HOUSE. 


Saltair.  The  Rio  Grande  Western  Railroad  has  opened  a  new 
bathing  resort  at  Saltair,  on  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  about  eighteen  miles  from 
the  city.  During  the  season  bathing  trains  are  run  almost  hourly  from  Salt 
Lake  City  to  Saltair.  These  trains  enable  all  overland  passengers  stopping 
off  at  Salt  Lake  City  to  have  a  bath  in  the  great  dead  sea.  Here  is  located 
the  finest  bathing  pavillion  on  the  continent,  each  of  the  elegant  bath-rooms 
is  fitted  with  shower-bath,  stationary  water-bowls,  mirrors,  chairs,  incan- 
descent electric  lights,  etc.,  making  Saltair  one  of  the  most  attractive  water- 
ing places  on  the  continent.  There  is  a  first-class  restaurant  ;  careful  male 
and  female  attendants  and  a  silver-cornet  band  furnishes  music  day  and 
evening.  Prof.  John  Aluir,  the  celebrated  scientist  and  litterateur,  speaks  as 
follows  concerning  a  bath  in  the  Great  Salt  Lake  : 

"Since  the  completion  of  the  trans-continental  railways  this  magnifi- 
cent lake  in  the  heart  of  the  continent  has  become  as  accessible  as  any  water- 
ing-place on  either  coast,  and   I   am  sure  that  thousands  of  travelers,  sick 


74 


OVER   THE  RANGE. 


and  well,  would  throng  to  its  shores  every  summer  were  its  merits  but  half 
known.  Saltair  is  only  a  few  minute's  ride  from  the  city  and  has  good  hotel 
accommodations  and  then  besides  the  bracing  waters,  the  climate  is 
delightful.  The  mountains  rise  into  a  cool  sky,  furrowed  with  canons 
almost  Yosemitic  in  grandeur  and  filled  with  a  glorious  profusion  of  flowers 
and  trees.  Lovers  of  science,  lovers  of  wilderness,  lovers  of  pure  rest  will 
find  here  more  than  they  ever  may  hope  for." 

Salt  Lake  to  Ogden.  From  Salt  Lake  to  Ogden  the  Rio  Grande 
Western  Railroad  traverses  a  narrow  plain.  On  the  west  lies  the  Great 
Salt  Lake,  while  to  the  north  rise  the  serrated  peaks  of  the  Wasatch  Moun- 
tains. This  region  is  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  Farms  reach  their 
golden  or  green  fields  over  its  length  and  breadth,  and  little  streams  run  in 
bright  threads  out  of  the  mountain  canons  down  across  the  meadows.  The 
lake  is  in  full  view  of  the  traveler  most  of  the  way,  and  is  a  never-ending 
source  of  interest.  The  train  speeds  on,  and  entering  an  amphitheatre,  set 
around  with  mountains,  reaches  Ogden,  the  western  terminus  of  the  Denver 
&  Rio  Grande  and  Union  Pacific  Railroads.  (Population,  32,000.  Distance 
from  Denver,  753  miles.     Elevation,  4,286  feet.) 


QUEEN'S   CANON. 


GRAND   CANON,    FROM    TO-RO-WASP. 


SALIDA    TO    GRAND    JUNCTION 


VIA  MARSHALL  PASS. 


T  Salida  the  tourist,  holding  tickets  over  the  line  of  railroad, 
with  which  this  book  treats,  may  have  the  choice  of  two 
routes  to  Grand  Junction.  Either  the  standard  gauge  line  via 
Leadville  and  Glenwood  Springs,  as  described  in  the  fore- 
going pages,  or  the  narrow  gauge  line  via  Marshall  Pass, 
Gunnison  and  Montrose.  At  Grand  Junction  these  two  lines  unite  and 
continue  on  to  Salt  Lake.     The  points  of  interest  enroute  are  as  follows: 

Poncha.  This  little  town,  five  miles  west  of  Salida,  is  the  station  for 
Poncha  Hot  Springs  and  the  Junction  of  the  Monarch  Branch  with  the  main 
line.  It  is  really  a  suburb  of  Salida,  and  is  connected  with  that  town  by  a 
beautiful  boulevard,  which  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  of  drives. 

Monarch  Branch.  From  Poncha  this  branch  runs  in  a  rich  mining 
country,  its  terminus  is  Monarch,  a  prosperous  mining  town,  237  miles  from 
Denver  and  1 1  miles  from  Poncha.  The  intermediate  stations  on  the  line 
are  Maysville  and  Garfield.     Mining  is  the  chief  industry. 

As  a  resort  for  invalids,  Poncha  Hot  Springs 
offers  superior  inducements,  especially  to  those 
suffering  from  chronic  troubles.  The  sick  get 
well  here  in  less  time  and  with  less  medicine 
than  in  any  other  sanitarium  outside  of  Colo- 
rado. The  return  to  health  here  is  made  radi- 
cally permanent.  A  great  variety  of  diseases 
are  cured  by  the  peculiar  earth-heated  and 
earth-medicated  waters  and  an  intelligent  sys- 
tem of  baths.  The  effect  on  the  sick  is  wonder- 
fully beneficial,  corollatinga  specific  energy  with 
the  climate  and  pure  atmosphere,  and  the  very  feeble  are  enabled  to 
tolerate  much  hotter  baths  than  in  damper  or  lower  altitudes,  and  secure 
correspondingly  greater  results.  The  analysis  of  the  Poncha  Hot  Springs 
corresponds  almost  exactly  with  the  waters  of  the  Hot  Springs  in  Arkansas. 
The  temperature  of  the  various  Arkansas  Hot  Springs  varies  from  go  to 
175°,  that  of  the  Poncha  Springs  varies  from  90  to  185 °  Fahrenheit.  The 
water  is  as  clear  as  crystal  and  perfectly  odorless  and  tasteless.  It 
quenches  thirst  whether  cold  or  hot,  and  does  not  disturb  the  stomach  in 
any  manner.  There  are  one  hundred 'of  these  Hot  Springs,  all  flowing  from  a 
great  field  of  tufa,  the  natural  precipitation  of  ages,  loss  of  temperature 
from  contact  with  the  atmosphere  and  chemically  the  same  as  the  tufa  of 
the  Arkansas  Hot  Springs.  The  springs  have  a  capacity  large  enough  to 
bathe  40,000  persons  daily.  The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  Poncha  Hot 
Springs : 

76 


Poncha  Springs, 

Mot  Springs, 
Watering  Place, 
and  Health  Resort. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

221  niles. 
Elevation,  7,480  feet. 


78  OVER   THE  RANGE. 


Silicic  Acid 32.73 

Sesqui-oxide  of  Iron 1.27 

Alumina 5.20 

Lime 20.00 

Magnesia .74 

Cholorine .06 

Carbonic  Acid  Gas 22.50 


Organic  Matter 6.24 

Water 1.72 

.Sulphuric  Acid 4.46 

Potash 2.08 

Soda 1. 00 

Iodine 1.50 

Bromine 1.50 


The  waters  are  said  to  be  a  sure  cure  for  rheumatism  and  all  blood  and 
skin  diseases,  and  catarrhal  affections. 

Poncha  Pass.  After  leaving  Poncha  Station  the  railroad  begins  to 
climb  the  mountains,  and  makes  its  entry  into  Marshall  Pass  by  way  or 
Poncha  Pass.  As  the  train  makes  a  long  curve  around  the  side  of  a  great 
hill,  about  two  miles  above  the  town  of  Poncha,  the  tourist  can  see  the  Hot 
Springs  on  the  side  of  the  opposite  hill  to  the  left,  a  deep  gorge  intervening, 
at  the  bottom  of  which  flows  a  clear  mountain  stream.  The  scenery  here  is 
wild  and  beautiful,  and  the  interest  increases  with  each  mile  of  the  ascent. 

Mears  JunctioD.  This  little  station,  227  miles  from  Denver,  in  the 
heart  of  the  hills,  is  the  junction  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  branch  with  the 
main  line,  and  from  this  point  the  real  ascent  of  Marshall  Pass  begins. 

San  Luis  Valley  Branch.  This  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  extends  from  Mears  Junction  to  Alamosa  where  it  connects  with 
the  line  coming  over  Veta  Pass,  to  Silverton  and  to  Creede,  as  described 
elsewhere  in  this  volume.     Enroute  the  first  station  of  importance  is 

Villa  Grove,  This  town  is  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  great  San  Luis  Valley,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  agricultural  country. 
There  are  many  good  mines  of  gold,  silver  and  coal  in  the  near  vicinity. 
Eight  miles  from  Villa  Grove  on  the  Orient  Branch,  is  located  the  famous 
Orient  Iron  mine,  from  which  is  annually  produced  about  60,000  tons  of  a 
fine  quality  of  iron  ore.  This  ore  is  smelted  and  formed  into  all  kinds  of 
commercial  iron  and  steel  at  the  works  of  the  Colorado  Fuel  &  Iron  Com- 
pany located  at  Bessemer,  near  Pueblo.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from 
Denver,  247  miles.     Elevation,  7,971  feet.) 

Hot  Springs.  Five  miles  beyond  Villa  Grove  is  situated  a  group  of 
hot  springs  of  great  medicinal  value.  There  are  so  many  of  these  springs 
in  Colorado  that  all  of  them  have  never  been  fully  developed,  and  this  par- 
ticular group  of  springs  has  not  been  given  the  attention  they  really  deserve. 

For  a  distance  of  fifty-two  miles  this  branch  extends  through  the  grand 
San  Luis  valley  in  an  absolutely  straight  line  with  a  gradual  descent 
towards  the  south.  Moffat,  Garrison  and  Mosca  are  the  principal  stations 
enroute  and  are  all  towns  of  considerable  importance  as  entrepots  for  this 
wonderful  agricultural  valley.  There  are  a  number  of  small  lakes  in  the 
valley,  insuring  water  in  abundant  quantities  for  irrigating  purposes  and 
constituting  a  home  for  myriads  of  wild  fowl.  Hunters  from  Denver, 
Pueblo,  Leadville,  Salida  and  Alamosa,  and  in  fact  from  all  parts  of  the 
state  visit  this  valley  each  season.  Alamosa  the  end  of  this  division  will  be 
found  fully  described  in  another  part  of  this  book. 

After  leaving  Mears  Station  on  the  main  line  the  road  advances  by  means 
of  a  series  of  curves  absolutely  bewildering,  following  the  convolutions  of  the 
gulches.  As  the  altitude  grows  greater,  the  view  becomes  less'obstructed  by 
mountain  sides,  and  the  eye  roams  over  miles  of  cone-shaped  summits. 
The  timberless  tops  of  towering  ranges  show  him  that  he  is  among  the  heights 


OVER    THE  RANGE. 


and  in  a  region  familiar  with  the  clouds.  Then 
he  beholds,  stretching  away  to  the  left,  the  most 
perfect  of  all  the  Sierras.  The  sunlight  falls 
with  a  white,  transfiguring  radiance  upon  the 
snow-crowned  spires  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo 
Range.  Their  sharp  and  dazzling  pyramids, 
which  near  at  hand  are  clearly  defined,  extend 
to  the  southward  until  cloud,  and  sky  and  snowy 
peak  commingle  and  form  a  vague  and  bewil- 
dering   vision.      To   the   right,   towers  the  fire 

scarred  front  of  old  Ouray,  gloomy   and   grand,  solitary  and  forbidding. 

Ouray  holds  the   pass,   standing  sentinel    at  the    rocky  gateway  to    the 


Marshall    Pass. 

Railroading 
Among  the  Clouds. 

A  Marvel 
of  Engineering  Skill. 

Elevation,    10,856  feet. 


CRESTED    BUTTE   MOUNTAIN    AND    LAKE. 


fertile  Gunnison.  Slowly  the  steeps  are  conquered  until  at  last  the  train 
halts  at  the  station,  upon  the  Summit  of  Marshall  Pass.  The  awful  silence 
of  the  storm-tossed  granite  ocean  lies  beneath.  The  traveler  looks  down 
upon  four  lines  of  road,  terrace  beyond  terrace,  the  last  so  far  below  as  to 
be  quite  indistinct  to  view.  These  are  only  loops  of  the  almost  spiral  path- 
way of  descent.  Wonder  at  the  triumphs  of  engineering  skill  is  strangely 
mingled  with  the  feelings  of  awe  and  admiration  at  the  stupendous  gran- 
deur of  the  scene. 

Marshall  Pass  Station,  fs  directly  on  the  summit  of  the  pass, 
and  the  track  is  enclosed  by  a  large  snow  shed.  Fine  views  can  be 
obtained,  however,  from  the  loop  holes,  from  either  end  of  the  shed  or 
from  the  observatory,  erected  above   the  station.     The  elevation,  is  10,856 


82  OVER    THE  RANGE. 

feet  above  the  sea.  The  descent  begins,  and  the  road  winds  around 
projecting  headlands,  on  the  verge  of  vast  precipices,  threads  dark  recesses 
where  patches  of  light  fall  through  leafy  canopies  upon  the  green  slopes, 
follows  the  windings  of  the  Tomichi,  and  later  courses  through  cultivated 
meadows  dotted  with  hay-stacks  and  small  ranch  houses.  As  the  train  rolls 
swiftly  on,  a  backward  glance  gives  the  traveler'  a  comprehensive  idea  of 
the  vast  heights  overcome  in  the  passage.  The  stations  between  Marshall 
Pass  and  Gunnison  are  as  follows:  Hilden,  Shawano,  Chester,  Buxton, 
Sargent,  Elko,  Crookton,  Doyle,  Bonita,  Parlin  and  Mounds.  These  sta- 
tions are  all  small  but  situated  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  scenery. 

The  Waunita  Hot  Springs  are  situated  eight  miles  from  Parlin. 
The  waters  have  long  been  famous  for  their  great  medicinal  qualities, 
and  they  have  been  frequented  by  those  suffering  from  ill  health  with  the 
most  surprising  and  gratifying  results.  Good  accommodations  have  been 
provided  for  guests.  The  scenery  surrounding  the  Springs  is  unsurpassed, 
and  no  pleasanter  place  can  be  found  by  the  searcher  after  health  or 
pleasure. 

Tomichi  Meadows.  Beyond  Parlin  the  line  crosses  a  wide 
expanse  of  natural  meadow  land,  through  which  meanders  the  beautiful 
Tomichi  Creek. 

Gunnison  is  the  county  seat  of  Gunnison 
County,  and  is  situated  on  the  Gunnison  River. 
From  its  central  position  in  the  great  Gunnison 
Valley,  it  must  of  necessity  always  be  the  dis- 
tributing point ;  and,  therefore,  its  growth  is 
assured  as  being  coincident  with  that  of  the 
country  in  which  it  is  situated.  From  Gunnison 
extends  a  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
Railroad  up  to  Crested  Butte,  situated  in  the 
heart  of  a  rich  gold  and  silver  mining  country, 


GUNNISON. 

Population,   2,500. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
290  miles. 

Elevation,   7,683  feet. 

Eating  Station. 


and  being  the  centre  of  the  wonderful  anthracite  coal  measures  of  the  state. 
The  town  is  beautifully  situated  and  is  in  such  close  proximity  to  some  of 
the  most  attractive  scenery  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  that  it  has  become  a 
favorite  objective  point  with  tourists.  The  Gunnison  River  and  its  many 
confluent  trout  brooks  offer  fine  sport  for  the  fisherman,  and  the  hills 
abound  in  game.  The  La  Veta  Hotel,  the  eating  station  for  passengers, 
is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  Colorado,  having  been  erected  at  an 
expense  of  $225,000.  It  is  elegantly  furnished,  and  offers  first  class  accom- 
modations for  the  tourists  who  may  wish  to  spend  a  few  days  or  weeks 
here,  hunting  and  fishing. 

Crested  Butte  Branch.  From  Gunnison  the  Crested  Butte 
branch  of  the  road  extends  to  the  northwest  to  Crested  Butte,  a  distance  of 
twenty-eight  miles.  The  line  extends  up  the  Gunnison  River,  which 
swarms  with  trout  and  is  an  extremely  picturesque  stream.  The  Elk 
Mountains  are  in  plain  view,  and  add  grandeur  to  the  scene.  The  interven- 
ing stations  are  Almont,  Jack's  Cabin,  and  ( daciers. 

Crested  Butte.  This  pretty  village  is  situated  most  delightfully 
among  the  mountains,  one  castellated  peak  directly  opposite  the  town 
conferring  the  name  it  bears.  This  is  the  centre  of  the  most  remarkable 
coal  region  yet  discovered  in  Colorado,  and  abounding  also  in  rich  mines  of 


84  OVER    THE  RANGE. 

gold  and  silver.  At  Crested  Butte,  just  back  of  the  village,  is  found 
abundant  measures  of  exceedingly  bituminous  coal,  which  is  mined  largely 
and  made  into  coke.  Four  miles  north  of  the  town  anthracite  coal,  equal 
in  every  respect  to  the  best  found  in  Pennsylvania,  is  ta*ken  from  the  top  of 
a  mountain,  and  shipped  all  over  Colorado  and  Utah.  The  fishing  and 
hunting  in  the  mountain  streams,  and  over  the  wooded  hills,  furnish  abun- 
dant sport  for  the  residents  and  tourists,  and  the  rides  and  drives  afford 
an  almost  infinite  variety.  (Population,  1,200.  Distance  from  Denver, 
318   miles.     Elevation,  8,878  feet.) 

Anthracite.  Four  miles  beyond  Crested  Butte.  The  present  ter- 
minus of  this  branch,  and  as  its  name  indicates  the  shipping  point  for  the 
anthracite  coal  mined  in  the  vicinity. 

Sapinero  stands  at  the  eastern  entrance  to  the  Black  Canon,  and  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Gunnison  River.  The  town  was 
named  after  a  sub-chief  among  the  Utes,  who  was  regarded  by  the  whites 
as  a  man  of  unusual  intellectual  and  executive  ability.  In  addition  to  com- 
manding the  entrance  to  the  canon,  Sapinero  is  the  junctional  point  for 
the  Lake  City  extension  of  the  line,  and  from  whence  stages  run  to  the  new 
gold  region  of  Goose  Creek.  (Population,  100.  Distance  from  Denver,  316 
miles.     Elevation,  7,255  feet.) 

The  Goose  Creek  Gold  Mining  district  is  located  on  Goose,  Wild 
Cat,  and  Cebolla  Creeks,  and  bids  fair  to  outrival  many  of  the  older  gold 
camps.  Dubois  and  Spencer  are  the  principal  towns,  and  present  indica- 
tions for  a  new  Leadville  or  Creede  are  flattering  to  say  the  least. 

Lake  City  Branch.  This  extension  is  thirty-six  miles  in  length, 
and  has  its  terminus  at  Lake  City.  The  line  turns  to  the  left  about  a  mile 
west  of  Sapinero,  and  passes  through  a  remarkable  canon  en  route. 

Lake  Fork  Canon.  This  canon  is  a  most  attractive  bit  of  scenery. 
It  is  noted  for  its  narrowness,  and  the  height  and  grandeur  of  its  walls. 
For  thirteen  miles  the  railroad  winds  through  this  tortuous  chasm,  the  walls 
rising  on  each  hand  to  a  height  varying  from  eight  hundred  to  thirteen 
hundred  feet.  The  river  claims  the  right  of  way  but  the  railroad  also 
asserts  its  rights,  and  by  the  exercise  of  engineering  skill  has  forced  a 
passage.  In  many  places  the  solid  wall  of  granite  has  been  blasted  away, 
and  from  the  fallen  blocks  a  solid  embankment  constructed,  upon  which 
the  rails  have  been  laid.  The  Lake  Fork  is  a  rapid  and  tumultuous  stream, 
abounding  in  rapids  and  presenting  a  most  interesting,  varied  and  exhil- 
arating panorama  to  the  eye.  Emerging  from  the  canon  and  gaining  a 
greater  altitude,  the  view  is  one  of  magnificent  extent  and  grandeur. 
Northward  the  peaks  of  the  Elk  Range  form  a  long  line  of  well-separated 
summits.  Northeastward,  the  vista  between  nearer  hills  is  filled  with  the 
clustered  heights  of  the  Continential  Divide  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross.  Just  below  them  confused  elevations  show 
where  Marshall  Pass  carries  its  lofty  avenue,  and  to  the  southward  of 
that  stretches  the  splendid,  snow  trimmed  array  of  the  Sangre  de  Christo. 
The  enterprising  and  thriving  mining  town  of  Lake  City  stands  in  a  little 
park  at  the  junction  of  the  Lake  Fork  of  the  Gunnison  River  with  Hensen 
Creek,  both  typical  mountain  streams.  A  substantial  and  pretty  town  has 
been  established.  Mines  of  marvelous  value  surround  the  town,  and  the 
advent   of  the   railroad   has  given  new  life   and   energy  to    all   the  com- 


GATE  OF   LADORE. 


86 


OVER   THE  RANGE. 


LAKE  CITY. 

Picturesque  Mining 
.Town. 

Population,  1,500. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
352  miles. 

Elevation,  8,604  feet. 


mercial  and  speculative  projects  of  the  people. 
The  development  of  her  mining  resources  has 
been  retarded  during  the  past  by  the  lack 
of  transportation  facilities,  but  this  has  only 
caused  its  stores  of  wealth  to  be  held  in 
abeyance  for  awhile  before  their  coinage. 
Many  another  district  a  few  years  ago  thought 
equally  profitless  has  risen  to  become  the  scene 
of  steady  dividend  making  labor  through  the 
perfection  of  processes.  It  will  not  be  long 
before,  by  like  means,  the  reviving  of  Lake  City's  mines  will  occur,  and 
enable  her  to  catch  up  with  her  more  fortunate  sisters  in  the  wide  circle  of  the 
San  Juan  silver  region.  The  romantic  surroundings  of  this  pretty  town, — 
the  lovely  lakes  from  which  it  takes  its  characteristic  name,  the  grand  moun- 
tains and  the  grassy  parks — have  made  it  a  favorite  for  the  lovers  of  nature 
in  the'  past,  and  will  still  attract  them  in  the  future.  This  is  a  paradise  for  a 
sportsman.  Over  these  rolling  uplands,  among  the  aspen  groves,  upon  the 
foot  hills  and  along  the  willow-bordered  creek  deer  now  throng,  and  even 
an  occasional  elk  and  antelope  are  to  be  seen.  In  the  rocky  fastnesses  the 
bear  and  panther  find  refuge,  and  every  little  park  is  enlivened  by  the 
flitting  forms  of  timid  hares  and  the  whirring  escape  of  the  grouse  disturbed 
by  our  passing. 

Beyond  Gunnison,  the  railway  traverses  the 
valley  of  the  same  name,  following  the  river 
closely,  and  encountering  nothing  but  meadows 
and  low,  grayish  cliffs.  The  Gunnison  River 
abounds  in  fish,  and  is  a  great  resort  for  the 
disciples  of  Isaac  Walton.  Soon,  however,  the 
channel,  which  the  stream  has  worn,  becomes 
narrower.  The  cliffs  grow  higher  and  steeper, 
the  vegetation  is  less  abundant,  and  suddenly  the 
sunlight  is  cut  off  by  broken  summits,  and 
directly  after  leaving  Sapinero,  where  the  ob- 
servation car  is  attached,  the  Black  Canon  holds 
us  fast  in  its  embrace.  This  gorge  is  grander,  deeper,  darker,  and  yet  more 
beautiful  than  the  one  we  have  so  lately  penetrated.  It  is  twice  as  long, 
has  more  verdure,  and,  although  the  walls  are  dark-hued  enough  to 
give  the  place  its  name,  still  they  are  of  red  standstone  in  many  places,  and 
from  their  crevices  and  on  their  tops,  shrubs,  cedars  and  pifions  grow  in 
rich  abundance.  The  river  has  a  deep,  seagreen  color,  and  is  followed  to 
Cimarron  Creek,  up  which  the  road  continues,  still  through  rocky  depths,  to 
open  country  beyond.  The  Black  Canon  never  tires,  never  becomes  com- 
monplace. 

Chippeta  Fall  starts  from  a  dizzy  height,  is  dashed  into  frag- 
ments by  lower  terraces,  and,  tossed  by  the  winds,  reaches  the  river  in  fine 
white  spray;  there  another  cataract  leaps  clear  of  the  walls,  and  thunders 
unbroken  upon  the  ground  beside  us.  In  the  cliffs  are  smaller  streams, 
which  trickle  down  and  are  lost  in  the  river  below.  At  times  the  canon 
narrows,  and  is  full  of  sharp  curves,  but  again  has  long  wide  stretches,  which 
enable  one  to  study  the  steep  crags  that  lower  heavenward  two  or  three 
thousand  feet. 


BLACK  CANON 

OF  THE 

GUNNISON. 

Height  of  Walls, 
2,500  feet. 

Length  of  Canon, 
14  miles. 


88  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

Currecanti  Needle,  the  most  abrupt  and  isolated  of  these  pinnacles, 
has  all  the  grace  and  symmetry  of  a  Cleopatra  obelisk.  It  is  red-hued  from 
point  to  base,  and  stands  like  a  grim  sentinel,  watchful  of  the  canon's 
solitudes.  At  the  junction  of  the  Gunnison  and  the  Cimarron  a  bridge 
spans  the  gorge,  from  which  the  beauties  of  the  canon  are  seen  at  their 
best.  Sombre  shades  prevail  ;  the  stream  fills  the  space  with  its  heavy 
roar,  and  the  sunlight  falls  upon  the  topmost  pines,  but  never  reaches  down 
the  dark  red  walls.  Huge  bowlders  lie  scattered  about ;  fitful  winds  sweep 
down  the  deep  clefts;  Nature  has  created  everthing  on  a  grand  scale; 
detail  is  supplanted  by  magnificence,  and  the  place  is  one  appealing  to  our 
deepest  feelings.  It  greets  us  as  a  thing  of  beauty,  and  will  remain  in  our 
memory  a  joy  forever.     Long  ago  the  Indians  of  this  region  built  their  coun- 


TROUT    FISHING 
ON  THE  CIMARRON 


cil  fires  here.  By  secret  paths,  always  guarded,  they  gained  these  fastnes- 
ses, and  held  their  grave  and  somber  meetings.  The  firelight  danced 
across  their  swarthy  faces  to  the  cliffs  encircling  them.  The  red  glow  lit  up 
with  Rembrandt  tints  the  massive  walls,  the  surging  streams  and  clinging 
vines.  They  may  not  have  known  the  place  had  beauties,  but  they  realized 
its  isolation,  and  fearing  nothing  in  their  safe  retreat,  spoke  boldly  of  their 
plans. 

Cimarron.  Is  a  most  attractive  little  station,  nestled  among  the  gulches 
on  the  banks  of  the  sparkling  Cimarron  Creek.  Here  is  a  meal  station, 
#nd  here  the  observation  car  is  detached.  Sportsmen  make  headquarters 
at  Cimarron,  for  the  hills  are  full  of  game  and  the  streams  abound  in 
trout.  (Population,  200.  Distance  from  Denver,  331  miles.  Elevation, 
6,906  feet.) 

Cimarron  Canon.  Where  Cimarron  Creek  empties  into  the  Gun- 
nison through  a  short  canon  the  road  leaves  Black  Canon,  which  continues 


CURRECANTI    NEEDLE,    BLACK  CANON. 


9° 


OVER   THE  RANGE. 


on  with  the  larger  stream,  heightening  in  awfulness.  Down  there  the  fall 
(it  the  river  increases  so  rapidly  that  to  follow  it  to  the  end,  the  railroad 
would  emerge  a  thousand  feet  below  the  valley  which  it  seeks,  if  a  practic- 
able grade  should  be  kept,  so  the  engineers  have  turned  the  road  out  to  the 
valley  through  Cimarron  Canon,  and  in  four  or  five  miles  a  verdureless 
expanse  is  reached,  and  for  hours  the  road  traverses  a  region  which  is 
picturesque  in  its  poverty  and  desolation  ;  and  in  the  summer  the  distant 
and  sun-heated  buttes,  with  the  arid  plains  between,  remind  the  traveler  of 
the  Wastes  of  Arabia  Petra. 


A    UTE   COUNCIL    FIRE. 


Cedar  Divide  is  reached  directly  after  emerging  from  Cimarron 
Canon.  From  here  the  Uncompahgre  Valley,  its  river,  and  the  distant, 
picturesque  peaks  of  the  San  Juan  are  within  full  sight  of  the  traveler. 
Descending  to  the  valley  and  following  the  river  past  Montrose,  the 
Gunnison  is  again  encountered  at  Delta. 

The  town  of  Montrose  can  take  just  pride  in  the  grandeur  of  its 
mountain  view.     Situated  in  the  Uncompahgre  Valley,  Montrose  is  almost 


CHIPETA    FALLS    IN    THE    BLACK  CANON. 


92  OVER    THE  RANGE. 


MONTROSE. 

Population,  2,000. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
353   miles. 

Elevation,  5,811   feet. 


surrounded  by  mountains.  The  San  Juan  Moun- 
tains tower  into  the  heavens  to  the  south,  cap- 
tained by  Mounts  Sneffles  and  Uncompahgre, 
both  over  fourteen  thousand  feet  high.  Along 
the  western  horizon  trend  the  Uncompahgre 
Peaks  to  where  the  Dolores  joins  the  Grand 
River,  a  distance  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles.  The  Uncompahgre  Valley  is  fertile,  and 
along  the  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
Railroad  from  Montrose  to  Ouray,  is  under  high  state  of  cultivation.  The 
cereals,  fruit  and  vegetables,  together  with  forage  plants,  flourish  here  in 
the  greatest  luxuriance.  Here  was  the  Indian  reservation,  and  here  lived 
Ouray,  the  friend  of  the  white  man.  It  is  only  a  few  years  since  th  good 
chief  died,  and  his  farm  and  buildings  are  still  pointed  out  to  the  traveler, 
on  the  line  to  the  town  of  Ouray,  about  two  miles  south  of  Montrose.  The 
land  in  the  valley  surrounding  Montrose  is  gradually  being  brought  under 
cultivation.  Irrigating  canals  have  been  constructed,  and  the  rich  soil 
responds  generously  to  the  demands  of  the  farmer.  Mining  and  pastoral 
industries  also  contribute  greatly  to  the  success  of  Montrose.  There  can 
be  found  excellent  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  vicinity. 

Delta  is  twenty-one  miles  from  Montrose,  and  is  the  county  seat  of 
Delta  County.  It  is  situated  in  the  delta  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
Uncompahgre  and  the  Gunnison  Rivers.  The  town  is  in  a  fine  agricultural 
region  and  is  supported  by  farming,  pastoral  and  mining  industries.  It  is 
destined  to  become,  in  time,  a  considerable  business  centre.  (Population, 
400.     Distance  from  Denver,  374  miles.     Elevation,  4,980  feet.) 

Between  Delta  and  Grand  Junction  there  are  a  number  of  small  sta- 
tions which  will  not  interest  the  traveler,  but  the  scenery  through  which  the 
railroad  passes  (while  it  is  not  especially  startling)  will  interest  him.  After 
passing  Delta  the  road  crosses  the  Uncompahgre  and  follows  the  west  bank 
of  the  Gunnison  (the  same  river  that  was  left  at  Cimarron,  forty-four  miles 
behind  us).  In  about  five  miles  we  cross  to  the  east  bank  of  the  Gunnison 
and  roll  along  beneath  cliffs  which  tower  on  our  right  above  the  train, 
leaving  but  little  room  between  rocks  and  river.  At  Bridgeport  the  cars 
plunge  into  the  Bridgeport  Tunnel,  2,256  feet  in  length,  one  of  the  longest 
tunnels  on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  Shortly  an  iron  bridge, 
over  a  fine  stream  (the  Grand  River)  is  passed,  and  we  find  ourselves  at  the 
junction  of  the  Gunnison  with  the  Grand  River;  and  of  the  two  main  lines 
of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  with  the  Rio  Grande  Western  Rail- 
way 


PUEBLO  TO  ALAMOSA. 


o  |ROM  Pueblo  to  Cuchara  Junction,  a  distance  of  50  miles,  the 
railroad  extends  to  the  southward  across  the  plains  which 
stretch  in  one  vast  unbroken  expanse  to  the  eastern  horizon, 
while  to  the  west  lies  the  Greenhorn  Range  with  its  interven- 
ing foothills. 

Spanish  Peaks.  To  the  south  rise  the  famed  Spanish  Peaks, 
springing  directly  from  the  plains,  remarkable  for  their  symmetry  of  out- 
line, and  reaching  an  altitude  respectively  of  13,620  and  12,720  feet.  The 
Indians,  with  a  touch  of  instinctive  poetry,  named  these  beautifully  moun- 
tains "Wahatoya,"  or  twin  breasts.  As  a  matter  of  orthographical  interest, 
the  reader  may  be  pleased  to  know  that  the  Indian  spelling  of  the  word 
is  as  follows:     "  Huacjatollas  !" 

Trinidad  Branch.  From  Cuchara  Junction,  one  line  of  the  road 
extends  in  a  southern  direction  to  Trinidad,  the  largest  city  in  Southern 
Colorado  and  the  centre  of  the  famous  coal  measures  of  El  Moro. 

This  branch  of  the  road  does  not  pass  directly  through  grand  scenery, 
as  it  extends  to  the  southward  across  the  plains,  and  to  the  east  of  the  moun- 
tains; but  the  line  is  of  great  commercial  importance,  as  by  its  connections 
at  Trinidad  it  affords  a  direct  through  route  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Locally, 
also,  it  is  of  especial  importance  as  El  Moro  and  Trinidad  are  in  the  heart 
of  one  of  the  greatest  coal  regions  in  the  west,  and  the  agricultural  and 
pastoral  industries  of  the  plains  are  of  large  proportions.  From  Cuchara 
Junction  the  stations  occur  in  the  following  order:  Tuna,  Rouse  Junction, 
Santa  Clara,  Boaz,  Apishapa,  Barnes,  Chicosa  and  El  Moro. 

El  Moro  is  worthy  of  special  mention  because  of  its  extensive  coal 
mines  and  coking  ovens;  the  latter  are  250  in  number,  and  the  greatest  in 
the  State.  The  town  derives  its  name  from  the  great  butte  (El  Moro)  which 
towers  above  it,  presenting  a  very  striking  object  to  the  view.  (Population, 
250.     Distance  from  Denver,  206  miles.     Elevation,  5,879  feet.) 

This  is  the  metropolis  of  southeastern  Colo- 
rado, and  the  terminus  of  this  branch  of  the  Den- 
ver &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  Trinidad  is  the 
trade  and  money  centre  for  an  immense  territory, 
including  portions  of  northern  Texas,  southern 
Colorado  and  northern  New  Mexico.  In  natural 
resources,  Trinidad  is  exceedingly  rich,  being  the 
centre  of  the  largest  coal  belt  in  the  world,  and  the 
supply  depot  for  most  of  the  coke  used  in  the 
Great  West.  In  addition  to  coal  and  coke  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  iron  exists  in  unlimited  quanti- 
ties. The  supply  of  gypsum,  granite,  alum,  fire-clay,  silica,  grit  or  grind- 
stone, limestone  and  the  finest  of  building  stone  is  absolutely  inexhaustible, 
Trinidad,  from   the   natural   deposit  alone,   must  of   necessity   become  a 

93 


TRINIDAD. 

Commercial  and  Hanu- 

facturing  City. 

Population, 

8,000. 

Elevation, 

5,994  feet. 

Distance  from   Denver, 

210  miles. 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  HATE.  95 

manufacturing  centre  of  vast  importance,  and  has  already  taken  advanced 
steps  in  this  regard.  A  §200,000  rolling  mill  is  now  in  operation.  The 
manufacture  of  cement,  mineral  paint,  lime,  and  plaster  of  paris,  are  all 
important  industries,  while  the  production  of  building  brick  is  very  large  in 
its  proportions.  Fire-brick  and  silica  brick  will  soon  be  an  additional 
industry.  In  and  around  Trinidad  no  less  than  three  thousand  laborers  are 
now  employed,  and  this  large  and  daily  increasing  number  of  men  spend 
their  money  in  Trinidad.  The  city  has  water-works,  gas-works,  electric 
light,  street  cars,  and  other  metropolitan  improvements.  The  schools  and 
churches  are  very  superior,  while  the  business  houses  and  residences  are  a 
credit  to  the  city.  Its  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  insures  a  delight- 
ful climate,  free  from  malaria  and  other  poisons  common  to  lower  altitudes, 
while  the  scenic  surroundings  are  unsurpassed,  Raton  Peak  and  the 
distant  range  adding  their  grandeur  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  Trinidad  is 
a  railroad  centre,  with  three  great  trunk  lines  already  in  operation,  with 
three  more  moving  toward  it ;  is  the  most  important  wool  centre  in  Colorado, 
being  the  orignal  market  for  3,000,000  pounds,  and  is  also  a  great  cattle 
centre  and,  for  that  reason,  the  largest  hide  and  pelt-receiving  point  in  the 
State.     Resuming  the  journey  to  Alamosa,  the  tourist  returns  to 

Cucbara  Junction.  A  small  town  at  the  junction  of  the  New 
Mexico  and  Trinidad  extensions  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 
The  supporting  industries  are  pastoral  and  agricultural  pursuits.  (Popula- 
tion, 200.     Distance  from  Denver  169  miles.     Elevation,  5,942  feet.) 

Walsenburg".  A  flourishing  town  doing  a  large  business,  both  at 
home  and  abroad.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  fine  pastoral  country,  and  also 
derives  revenue  from  agriculture.  Coal  is  mined  near  here  in  large  quan- 
tities. (Population,  1,000.  Distance  from  Denver,  176  miles.  Elevation, 
6,189  feet.) 

La  Veta.  A  prosperous  village  surrounded  by  a  pastoral  country 
and  in  the  midst  of  most  beautiful  scenery,  being  near  the  foothills  of  La 
Veta  Mountain  and  the  famous  pass  known  by  the  same  name.  The 
Spanish  Peaks  are  also  in  plain  view  to  the  east.  (Population,  600.  Dis- 
tance from  Denver,  191  miles.     Elevation,  7,024  feet.) 

The  ascent  of  this  famous  pass  is  one  of  the 
great  engineering  achievements  of  the  Denver  & 
Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  line  follows  the 
ravine  formed  by  a  little  stream,  La  Veta  Moun- 
tain rising  to  the  right.  At  the  head  of  this 
gulch  is  the  wonderful  "  Mule-Shoe  Curve,"  the 
sharpest  curve  of  the  kind  known  in  railroad 
engineering.  In  the  centre  of  the  bend  is  a 
bridge,  and  the  sparkling  waters  of  the  moun- 
tain stream  can  be  seen  flashing  and  foaming  in 
theirrocky  bed  below.  Standing  on  the  rear  platform  of  the  car  as  the  train 
rounds  the  curve,  the  tourist  can  see  the  fireman  and  engineer  attending  to 
their  duties.  From  this  point  the  ascent  of  Dump  Mountain  begins,  rocks  and 
precipitous  escarpments  of  shaley  soil  to  the  right  and  perpendicular  cliffs 
and  chasms  to  the  left.  The  ascent  is  slowly  made,  two  meat  Mogul  engines 
urging  their  iron  sinews  to  the  giant  task.  The  view  to  the  eastward  is  one 
of  great  extent  and  magnificence.    The   plains  stretch  onward  to  the  dim 


VETA    PASS. 

Elevation,  9,393  feet. 

rtaximum  Grade,  211 
feet  to  the  mile. 

Distance  Across  Pass, 
13  miles. 


96 


OVER   THE  RANGE 

I  JBIJIH    II 


CLIMBING   THE  MOUNTAINS   AT   VETA    PASS. 


horizon  line  like  a  gently  undulating  ocean,  from  which  rise  the  twin  cones 
of  Wahatoya,  strangely  fascinating  in  their  symmetrical  beauty.  At  the 
summit  of  the  pass  the  railroad  reaches  an  elevation  of  9,393  feet  above  the 
sea. 

Veta  Mountain  is  to  the  right,  as  the  ascent  of  the  pass  is  made,  and 
rises  with  smooth  sides  and  splintered  pinnacles  to  a  height  of  11,176  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  stupendous  proportions  of  this  mountain,  the  illimita- 
ble expanse  of  the  plains,  the  symmetrical ,  cones  of  the  Spanish  Peaks 
present  a  picture  upon  which  it  is  a  never-ceasing  delight  for  the  eye  to 
dwell.  The  train  rolls  steadily  forward  on  its  winding  course,  and  at  last 
reaches  the  apex,  glides  into  the  timber  and  halts  at  the  handsome  stone 
station  over  9,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  distant  sea.     The  downward 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  97 

journey  is  past  Sierra  Blanca  and  old  Fort  Garland  and  through  that 
pastoral  and  picturesque  valley  known  as  San  Luis  Park. 

Placer.  At  Placer,  one  can  say  that  the  descent  of  Veta  Pass  has 
been  accomplished,  although  it  is  still  down  grade  as  far  as  Alamosa.  This 
little  town  is  situated  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  and  at 
the  western  extremity  of  La  Veta  Pass.  Good  hunting  and  fishing  can  be 
found  in  the  neighboring  foothills.  The  tributary  industries  are  agriculture 
and  stock  raising.  (Population,  75.  Distance  from  Denver,  212  miles. 
Elevation,  8,410  feet.) 

Garland.  This  town  was  formerly  known  as  Fort  Garland,  and  was 
a  United  States  military  post.  Sierra  Blanca,  elevation,  14.483  feet,  the 
highest  mountain  in  the  United  States  with  one  exception,  is  seventeen  miles 
distant.  Good  trout  fishing  and  shooting  can  be  found  in  the  adjacent  foot- 
hills. Garland's  tributary  industries  are  agriculture  and  stock  raising. 
(Population,  200.     Distance  from  Denver,  226  miles.     Elevation,  7,936  feet.) 

Sierra  Blanca  is  the  monarch  of  the  Rocky 


SIERRA   BLANCA 

Highest  Mountain 

of 
The  Rocky  Range. 

Elevation, 
14,483  feet. 


Range,  and  is  characterized  by  the  peculiarity 
of  a  triple  peak.  The  mountain  rises  directly 
from  the  plain  to  the  stupendous  height  of 
14,483  feet,  over  two  miles  and  three-fifths  of 
sheer  ascent.  A  magnificent  view  of  this  moun- 
tain is  obtained  from  the  cars  as  soon  as  the 
descent  from  Veta  Pass  into  the  San  Luis 
Valley  has  been  made.  Surely  it  is  worth  a 
journey  across  the  continent  to  obtain  a  view  of  such  a  mountain ! 
Although  a  part  of  the  range,  it  stands  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  like  a 
monarch  taking  precedence  of  a  lordly  retinue.  Two-thirds  of  its  height  is 
above  timber-line,  bare  and  desolate,  and  except  for  a  month  or  two  of  mid- 
summer, dazzling  white  with  snow,  while  in  its  abysmal  gorges  it  holds 
eternal  reservoirs  of  ice. 

"Oh,  sacred  mount  with  kingly  crest 

Through  tideless  ether  reaching,      m 
The  earth  world  kneels  to  hear  the  prayer 

Thy  dusky  slopes  are  teaching. 
With  mystic  glow  on  sunset  eyes 
All  trembling  lie  thy  blood-red  leaves, 
Their  silken  veins  with  gold  inwrought, 
Oh,  glorious  is  thy  world-wide  thought." 

The  lower  slopes  of  the  mountain  are  clad  in  vast  forests  of  pine  and 
hemlock,  while  its  grand  triad  of  gray  granite  peaks  lift  into  the  sky  their 
sharp  pyramidal  pinnacles,  splintered  and  furrowed  by  the  storm-com- 
pelling and  omnipotent  hand  of  the  Almighty.  To  the  north  and  south,  for 
a  distance  of  nearly  two  hundred  miles,  it  is  flanked  by  the  serrated  crests 
of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  the  whole  forming  a  panorama  of  unex- 
ampled grandeur  and  beauty. 

Sail  Luis  Park.  This  great  and  fertile  valley  is  located  in  Southern 
Colorado,  bordering  New  Mexico,  and'  is  drained  by  the  Rio  Grande,  one 
of  the  largest  of  Colorado's  rivers,  into  which  flows  from  the  lofty  mountain 
ranges  surrounding  the  park,  almost  numberless  little  mountain  streams. 
This  park,  which  was  once  the  bottom  of  a  vast  mountain  lake,  contains 
fully  10,000  square  miles — equal  to  the  entire  area  of  Massachusetts.     The 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  99 

soil  is  alluvial,  from  six  to  fifteen  feet  deep,  and  the  surface  is  naturally 
well  adapted  for  irrigation,  which  the  rivers  and  streams  in  the  park  are 
abundantly  capable  of  providing.  The  park,  or  valley,  as  it  is  frequently 
called,  is  from  7,000  to  7,300  feet  above  sea  level.  This  elevation  insures  a 
light,  pure  atmosphere,  free  from  all  malarial  conditions,  and  especially 
favorable  for  those  disposed  to  pulmonary  affections.  The  climate  is  cool 
in  the  summer,  and  not  severe  in  the  winter — scarcely  ever  more  than  an 
occasional  snowfall  of  two  or  three  inches  in  the  valley.  Too  much  in  praise 
of  the  attractions  and  beauty  of  the  climate  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  cannot 
be  said.  The  grand  chain  of  mountains,  which  entirely  surround  the  park, 
present  scenery  unsurpassed  in  the  world.  Spring  wheat  will  yield  from 
thirty  to  fifty  bushels  to  the  acre,  oats  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  bushels,  peas 
from  thirty  to  forty  bushels,  potatoes  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred 
bushels  to  the  acre  ;  beans,  cabbage,  all  kinds  of  root  crops,  are  unexcelled 
anywhere.  Hops  do  well ;  tomatoes  and  melons  are  grown,  but  with  some 
effort.  Corn,  in  consequence  of  the  elevation,  except  for  garden  purposes, 
does  not  pay.  Alfalfa — the  clover  of  the  mountains — does  well,  yielding 
from  four  to  six  tons  in  two  cuttings.  Common  red  clover,  timothy  and 
red  top  do  well.  The  native  grasses,  by  irrigation,  yield  two  tons  per  acre. 
All  kinds  of  small  fruit  do  exceedingly  well.  Grapes  are  untried,  but  it  is 
believed  they  will  succeed.  Apples  and  cherries  do  well,  plums  and  pears 
may,  but  peaches  cannot  be  grown.  Surrounding  the  valley,  embracing 
the  foot-hills  and  lower  mountain  ranges,  is  a  range  covering  millions  of 
acres,  where  cattle,  horses  and  sheep  can  feed  for  more  than  nine  months 
in  the  year.  The  grasses  are  more  abundant  and  nutritious  than  upon  the 
lower  elevations.  The  stock  so  grazed  upon  these  free  ranges  in  the  sum- 
mer and  fed  upon  the  home  farms  in  the  valley  in  the  winter,  can  be 
handled  without  hazard,  and  with  certainty  of  profitable  return  to  the 
farmer  and  large  ranchmen. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  considerable  towns 


ALAMOSA. 

Junctional  City. 

Eating  Station. 

Population,  1,500. 

Distance  From  Denver, 

Via  Veta  Pass,  250  Miles, 
Via  Salida,  302  Hiles. 
Elevation,  7,546  feet. 


of  the  San  Luis  Valley.  It  is  situated  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande  river,  and  at  the 
junction  of  the  New  Mexico,  San  Luis  and  Creede 
branches  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 
The  resources  of  the  San  Luis  Valley  have  been 
described  above,  and  it  goes  without  saying  that 
these  resources  are  naturally  tributary  to  the 
welfare  of  .Alamosa. 

The  town  is  well  supplied  with  stores  of  all 
kinds,  some  of  which  carry  large  stocks  of  goods. 
Great  quantities  of  hay  and  grain,  and  farm  produce  generally,  are  shipped 
from  this  station,  which  also  commands  a  large  local  trade.  Within  a  short 
distance  of  the  town  a  natural  gas  supply  has  been  discovered,  which  only 
needs  adequate  development  to  make  it  an  element  of  great  prosperity  to 
the  city.  There  are  also  a  large  number  of  ever-flowing  artesian  wells  near 
the  city,  which  insure  a  never-failing  source  of  pure  water.  The  eating 
house  at  Alamoso,  while  unpretentious  in  its  exterior,  furnishes  one  of  the 
best  meals  to  be  obtained  anywhere,  and  has  a  wide-spread  and  well-de- 
served reputation.  The  scenery  surrounding  the  town  is  grand,  and  the 
near  proximitv  of  the  river  makes  it  a  favorite  resort  for  sportsmen. 

Creede  Branch.     From  Alamosa  a  branch   of  the  Denver  &  Rio 


IOO 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


SUMMIT  OF  VETA  MOUNTAIN. 

Grande  extends  up  the  valley  a  distance  of  seventy  miles  to  the  great  hot 
springs  at  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  and  the  famous  gold  and  silver  mining  camp 
of  Creede.  The  line  passes  through  an  exceedingly  fertile  agricultural 
country  lying  on  both  sides  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  irrigated  by  the  great 
canals  taken  out  from  the  river.  In  the  proper  season  of  the  year  thousands 
of  acres  of  wheat  and  oats,  alfalfa  and  other  farm  produce  can  be  seen 
growing  in  the  greatest  luxuriance  on  both  sides  of  the  track. 

Monte  Vista.  This  flourishing  town  is  an  example  of  rapid  growth 
and  a  proof  of  the  self-sustaining  character  of  the  country.  The  surround- 
ing country  is  full  of  coal,  oil  and  gas.  Very  rich  mines  are  being  devel- 
oped (ore  running  from  $1,000  to  $2,000  per  ton)  in  the  mountains  southwest 
of  Monte  Vista,  which  is  located  in  the  midst  of  300,000  acres  of  the  richest 
irrigable  land  with  abundance  of  water  to  supply  it.  Monte  Vista  is  a  new, 
growing,  enterprising  prohibition  town,  and  has  a  superior  class  of  citizens. 
It  is  rapidly  becoming  an  extra  desirable  residence  locality.  It  has  a  first 
class  roller  process  flouring  mill,  fifteen  stores,  two  banks,  a  planing  mill, 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  101 

three  lumber  yards,  three  weekly  papers,  three  livery  stables,  large  public 
library,  an  $8,000  school-house,  a  $75,000  hotel,  seven  church  organizations, 
a  secular  Sunday  society,  secret  societies,  military  company,  cornet  band, 
etc.  In  the  vicinity  is  one  farm  of  7,000  and  another  of  4,000  acres.  The 
Colorado  Home  for  Disabled  Volunteer  Soldiers  and  Sailors  is  located  here. 
Some  two  hundred  veterans  occupy  the  magnificent  building  and  surround- 
ing cottages,  enjoying,  in  their  declining  years,  a  well  earned  respite  from 
the  turmoil  of  war.  (Population,  1,200.  Distance  from  Denver,  267  miles. 
Elevation,  7,665  feet.) 

Del  Norte.  This  is  the  oldest  town  in  what  is  known  as  the  San  Juan 
country,  and  is  the  county  seat  of  Rio  Grande  county.  The  town  site  was 
surveyed  in  1872,  though  the  town  company  was  formed  in  1871.  The  town 
is  so  situated  as  to  be  on  the  line  between  the  agricultural  and  mining 
sections.  To  the  north  and  east  of  the  town  are  the  rich  and  rapidly  settling 
agricultural  and  pastoral  lands  of  the  San  Luis  Valley,  to  the  south  and 
west  are  the  great  mines  of  San  Juan.  Del  Norte  is  beautifully  situated  in 
a  basin  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  sheltered  from  the  blasts  of  winter  and 
having  the  most  delightful  weather'  in  summer.  The  Rio  Grande  flows 
through  the  edge  of  the  Del  Norte  town  site,  and  offers  to  manufac- 
turing interests  exceptionally  fine  water  power.  Del  Norte  has  some 
excellent  business  and  dwelling  houses,  fine  public  school  buildings,  two 
good  church  buildings — above  the  average,  the  Presbyterian  College  of  the 
Southwest  (a  staunch  educational  institution),  a  fine  flouring  mill  of  the 
latest  roller  process,  a  large  brewery  using  home  grown  barley,  two  banks, 
court  house  costing  $30,000,  the  United  States  land  office,  where  all  business 
regarding  lands  in  this  district  must  be  transacted,  and  countless  other 
enterprises  that  cannot  be  mentioned  here.  On  Lookout  Mountain,  600  feet 
above  the  town,  is  mounted  a  large  telescope,  to  be  used  in  connection  with 
the  Presbyterian  College  of  the  Southwest.  The  view  from  the  Lookout 
observatory  is  grand  in  the  extreme.  The  streets  of  Del  Norte  are  wide, 
and  the  town  is  noted  for  its  growth  of  trees  —  mostly  cottonwoods.  Water 
for  irrigating  purposes  is  supplied  by  means  of  a  main  canal  from  the  Rio 
Grande,  with  laterals  over  the  town  site  along  the  sides  of  streets.  The 
distance  from  Del  Norte  to  the  following  points  is  :  To  Alamosa,  30  miles  ; 
to  Saguache,  35  miles;  to  Villa  Grove,  45  miles  ;  to  Monte  Vista,  15  miles; 
to  Veteran,  18  miles;  to  Summitville,  27  miles;  to  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  30 
miles;  to  Creede,  40  miles;  to  Shaw's  Springs,  6  miles;  to  Carnero,  25 
miles.  Del  Norte  is  certainly  a  very  attractive  town.  (Population,  1,200. 
Distance  from  Denver,  281  miles.  Elevation,  7,880  feet.)  From  Del  Norte 
the  line  follows  the  river  amidst  most  attractive  scenery.  South  Fork  is  a 
small  station  on  the  river,  and  is  a  favorite  stopping  place  for  anglers. 

The  hot  springs  at  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  to 
gether  with  the  magnificence  of  the  scenery, 
make  it  one  of  the  most  attractive  pleasure 
resells  in  Colorado.  As  the  Gap  is  approached 
the  valley  narrows  until  the  river  is  hemmed  in 
between  massive  walls  of  solid  rock,  that  rise 
to  such  a  height  on  either  side  as  to  throw  the 
passage  into  a  twilight  shadow.  The  river 
rushes  roaring  down   over  gleaming  gravel  or 


Wagon  Wheel  Gap 
Hot  Springs. 

Distance  from  Denver,  311 
Miles. 

Elevation,  8,440  feet. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 


103 


precipitous  ledges.  Progressing,  the  scene  becomes  wilder  and  more 
romantic,  until  at  last  the  waters  of  the  Rio  Grande  pour  through  a  cleft  in 
the  rocks  just  wide  enough  to  allow  the  construction 
of  a  road  at  the  river's  edge.  On  the  right,  as  one 
enters,  tower  cliffs  to  a  tremend- 
ous height,  suggestive  in  their 
appearance  of  the  palisades  on 
the  Hudson.  On  the  left  rises 
the  round  shoulder  of  a  mass- 
ive mountain.  The  vast  wall 
is  unbroken  for  more  than  half 
a  mile,  its  crest  presenting  an 
almost  unserrated  sky  line. 
Once  through  the  gap  the 
traveler,  looking  to  the  south, 
sees  a  valley  encroached  upon 
and  surrounded  by  hills.  Here 
is  the  old  stage  station,  a  primi- 
tive and  picturesque  structure 
of  hewn  logs  and  adobe,  one 
storv  in  height,  facing  the 
south,  and  made  cool  and  in- 
viting by  wide-roofed  verandas 
up  the  Rio  grande.  extending  along  its  entire  front. 

Not  a  hundred  feet  away  rolls  the  Rio  Grande  swarming  with  trout.  A 
drive  of  a  mile  along  a  winding  road,  each  turn  in  which  reveals  new  scenic 
beauties,  brings  the  tourist  to  the  famous  springs.  The  medicinal  qualities 
of  the  waters,  both  of  the  cold  and  hot  springs,  have  been  thoroughly  tested 
and  proved  to  be  of  a  very  superior  quality.  Lieutenant  Wheeler,  U.  S.  A., 
gives  the  following  analysis  of  these  springs  :  No.  1  has  a  temperature  of 
about  1 50°  Fahrenheit,  is  bubbling  continually,  and  is  about  eight  feet  wide 
by  twelve  feet  long;  No.  2  is  a  small  bubbling  spring,  cold,  and  about  one 
foot  in  diameter,  and  gives  out  a  strong  odor  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen ; 
No.  3  is  situated  some  distance  from  Nos.  1  and  2,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  it 
bubbles  continually  and  is  of  a  temperature  of  1400  Fahrenheit.  This  spring 
is  about  three  feet  wide  and  the  same  in  length  ;  it  is  called  the  Soda 
Spring.  In  one  thousand  parts  of  the  water  of  the  springs  of  Wagon  Wheel 
Gap  a r^  contained  parts  as  follows: 

No.  1 


No.  2.      No.  j. 


Sodium  Carbonate 6942 

Lithium  Carbonate Trace. 

Calcium  Carbonate 14.08 

Magnesium  Carbonate 10.91 

Potassium   Sulphate Trace. 

Sodium  Sulphate 23-73 

Sodium    Chloride 29.25 

.Silicic  Acid 5.73 

Organic    Matter Trace. 

Sulphuretted  Hydrogen Trace. 

Total 152.12 


Trace. 

144.50 

Trace. 

Trace. 

31.00 

22.42 

5.10 

22.42 

Trace. 

Trace. 

10.50 

13.76 

11.72 

33-34 

1.07 

4.72 

Trace. 

12.00 

71.39     218.77 


TO    THE  GOLDEN  GATE.  105 

There  are  two  good  hotels  at  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  one  at  the  springs, 
another  close  to  the  station,  giving  ample  accommodation  for  invalids  and 
sportsmen.  The  bathing  facilities  at  the  springs  consist  of  two  first  class 
bath  houses,  one  at  each  of  the  hot  springs,  which  are  supplied  with  modern 
conveniences. 

Antelope  Springs.  Twenty  miles  west  of  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  in 
Antelope  Park,  are  situated  Antelope  Springs,  in  a  region  which  is  becom- 
ing a  great  resort  for  sportsmen  and  abounding  in  fish  and  game.  The 
waters  of  the  springs  are  medicinal  and  resemble  the  more  widely-known 
mineral  waters  of  the  gap,  in  that  they  are  both  hoth  hot  and  cold,  and  differ 
among  themselves  in  their  mineral  constituents.  The  scenery  is  wild  and 
beautiful.  For  a  hunting  party,  or  as  a  place  for  a  few  days'  outing  in 
camp,  no  more  pleasing  spot  can  be  found. 

Trout  Fishing1  in  the  Kio  Grande.  There  is  no  stream  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that  affords  finer  trout  fishing  than 
the  Rio  Grande.  Trout  reaching  the  wonderful  weight  of  nine  pounds  have 
been  frequently  taken,  and  those  weighing  from  one  to  three  pounds  can  be 
caught  in  great  abundance.  This  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  best  fishing 
resorts  in  America. 

Ten  miles  beyond  Wagon  Wheel  Gap  on 
Willow  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio  Grande,  is 
Creede,  the  new  but  already  famous  mining 
camp.  This  camp  was  located  but  a  few  years 
ago,  and  is  to-day  one  of  the  largest  produc- 
ing camps  in  the  State,  and  has  a  population  of 
five  thousand.  While  Creede  is  known  as  a 
silver  camp,  it  is  not  distinctly  so.     The  ore  in 


CREEDE. 

Great  Hining  Camp. 
Population,  5,000. 

Distance  from   Denver, 

320  niles. 
Elevation,   9,016   feet. 


that  district  varies,  and  almost  every  property  has  more  or  less  of  a  per- 
centage of  gold.  The  vein  matter  is  so  rich  in  the  leading  mines  that  even 
did  they  not  contain  gold  they  could  be  worked  at  a  profit.  But  with  Lead- 
ville,  so  with  Creede.  The  deeper  the  mines  are  going,  the  heavier  the 
percentage  of  gold.  This  has  been  the  invariable  rule  with  the  large  pro- 
ducing properties,  which,  from  the  indications,  will  soon  have  enough  gold 
to  pay  for  their  working.  The  camp  is  active  and  is  progressing.  A  great 
deal  of  development  work  is  going  on,  contracts  being  let  for  extensive 
work  every  day.  New  districts  are  being  opened  up,  revealing  new  forma- 
tions and  good  paying  ore.  The  properties  that  first  brought  the  camp  into 
prominence  are  continuing  their  large  output. 

There  are  several  good  hotels  in  Creede,  and  the  wayfarer  will  be 
assured  of  all  modern  comforts. 


ALAMOSA  TO  ESPANOLA  AND  SANTA  FE. 


HE  New  Mexico  branch  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
extends  southward  from  Alamosa  to  Espahola,  passing 
through  an  interesting  country  to  the  tourist,  especially  after 
New  Mexico  has  been  entered.  Here  can  be  seen  what 
remains  of  the  ancient  Spanish  civilization,  as  well  as  the 
habitations  of  the  Pueblo  Indians  and  the  ruins  of  the  pre-historic  Cliff 


EMBUDO,    RIO  GRANDE  VALLEY. 


Dwellers.     Leaving  Alamosa  the  road  turns  to  the  south  and   crosses  the 
southern  portion  of  the  San  Luis  Valley. 

La  Jara.  Within  the  last  few  years  many  new  towns  have  sprung 
up  in  the  valley,  owing  to  the  development  of  its  agricultural  industries, 
through  the  construction  of  great  irrigating  canals.  Old  settlements  have 
acquired  new  vigor  and  advanced  greatly  in  prosperity.     La  Jara  is  one  of 

1 06 


TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


107 


the  towns  that  has  received  this  new  impulse.  Its  people  are  enterprising 
and  industrious.  Agriculture  and  pastoral  pursuits  contribute  to  the  town's 
success.  (Population,  300.  Distance  from  Denver,  265  miles.  Elevation, 
7,609  feet.) 

Manassa.  This  is  a  village  for  a  colony  of  Mormons,  which  has  been 
established  near  Antonito.  These  Mormons  do  not  practice  polygamy  and 
are  industrious  and  law  abiding  citizens. 

Antonito,  This  town  is  a  thriving  and  prosperous  place,  the  last  one 
of  any  special  importance  on  the  railroad  in  the  southern  part  of  the  San 
Luis  Valley.  Stock  raising  and  agriculture  occupy  the  attention  of  the 
surrounding  population.  There  is  a  fine  stone  depot  here,  and  there  are 
many  creditable  business  blocks.  It  is  the  station  for  Conejos,  one  mile 
distant ;  for  Manassa,  a  large  and  prosperous  Mormon  settlement,  in  which 
polygamy  is  not  practiced,  eight  miles  distant,  and  for  San   Rafael,  four 


^ 


OLD    CHURCH    OF   SAN    JUAN. 


miles  distant.  Its  position  in  the  heart  of  the  San  Luis  valley  (for  full 
description  of  which  see  Alamosa)  insures  it  a  generous  and  constantly 
increasing  support  from  agricultural  and  pastoral  industries.  Being  the 
junctional  point  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad's  New  Mexico  and 
San  Juan  branches  gives  it  a  large  railroad  business.  Tourists  will  do  well 
to  stop  at  Antonito  and  visit  the  old  Mexican  town  of  Conejos,  which  is  the 
most  accessible  town  of  the  typical  Mexican  character  in  Colorado.  Here 
may  be  found  the  plazas,  churches  and  ancient  adobe  houses  peculiar  to 
the  early  civilization  of  the  Spanish.  Fine  fishing  can  be  found  near 
Antonito.  Antonito  itself  is  a  modern  town  with  all  the  life  and  push  oi  the 
American,  full  of  business  and  enterprise.  (Population,  400.  Distance 
from  Denver,  279  miles.     Elevation,  7,888  feet.) 

Palnrilla  is  twenty-three  miles  from  Antonito,  and  here  the  road 
enters  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico  and  passes  through  a  number  of  small 
stations  of  no  especial  interest  to  the  tourist.  As  a  matter  of  statistics,  the 
names  of  these  stations  and  their  distances  from    Denver  are  given;    Pal- 


io8 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


A  TYPICAL    MEXICAN. 


milla,  290  miles.  Volcano,  297  miles.  No  Agua,  306  miles.  Tres  Piedras, 
313  miles.  Serviletta,  323  miles.  Caliente,  335  miles.  Barranca,  344  miles. 
Comanche,  346  miles.  Embudo,  351  miles.  Alcalde,  359  miles.  Chamita, 
365  miles.  Espafiola,  370  miles.  The  traveler  will  notice  that  the  names  of 
the  stations  have  assumed  a  Spanish  form,  and  should  he  happen  to 
address  any  of  the  swarthy  men  that  chance  to  be  lounging  around  the 
stations,  he  would  very  likely  to  receive  a  reply  in  the  language  of  His- 
pania.  The  Spanish  spoken  is  not  Castilian  by  any  means,  but  is  about  as 
near  it  as  "  pidgin  English "  is  to  genuine  Chinese,  being  a  mixture  of 
English,  Spanish  and  Indian  dialects. 

Barranca  is  a  quiet  little  station  in  New  Mexico,  344  miles  from 
Denver.  Its  only  claim  for  special  mention  is  the  fact  that  here  the  traveler 
takes  the  stage  for  Ojo  Caliente,  the  celebrated  hot  springs,  which  lie 
among  the  hills,  eleven  miles  to   the   westward.     Stages  to  and  from  the 


TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


log 


0J0  CALIENTE. 

Famous  Hot  Springs. 

Health  and  Pleasure 
Resort. 

Elevation,  7,324  feet. 


springs  connect  with  passenger  trains,  making 
quick  time  over  an  excellent  road.  The  altitude 
of  the  springs  is  7,324  feet,  and  the  climate 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year  mild  and  pleasant. 
The  springs  have  been  noted  for  their  curative 
properties  and  from  time  immemorial,  having 
been  frequented  by  the  Indians  previous  to 
Spanish  occupation  and  highly  esteemed  by  both 
races  sinces  that  date.  They  have  proved  re- 
markably successful  in  the  treatment  of  rheuma- 
tism, skin  diseases,  derangement  of  the  kidneys 
and  bladder,  and  especially  of  all  venereal  diseases.  Cases  of  paralysis, 
after  resisting  the  usual  appliances  of  medicine,  have  been  sent  to  Ojo 
Caliente,  and  immediately  and 
permanently  relieved.  The 
springs  lie  in  a  pleasant  valley, 
one  thousand  feet  lower  than 
Barranca,  surrounded  by  high 
bluffs  capped  with  basaltic 
cliffs.  On  the  top  of  these  cliffs 
are  table-lands  on  which  are 
found  the  ruins  of  prehistoric 
buildings,  not  unlike  the  Indian 
pueblos  of  the  present  day,  but 
of  which  the  Indians  know  noth- 
ing and  even  their  traditions 
furnish  no  account.  Four  miles 
above  the  village  are  larger 
springs  of  tepid  water,  the  min- 
eral deposits  from  which  have 
built  up  great  mounds,  full  of 
strange  caves  and  glittering 
with  saline  incrustations.  About 
three  miles  from  Ojo  Caliente 
is  a  high  mountain  called  Cerro 
Colorado,  from  its  peculiar 
reddish  brown  color,  which,  ac- 
cording to  the  statement  of  the  inhabitants,  exhibited  marked  evidences  of 
volcanic  action  only  sixty-two  years  ago.  It  has  a  well  defined  crater,  and 
offer's  an  inviting  field  for  the  investigations  of  the  geologist. 

Comanche  Canon.  Six  miles  below  Barranca  the  train  enters 
Comanche  Canon.  Through  this  canon  the  road  makes  its  descent  into 
the  Rio  Grande  Valley.  Rugged,  difficult  and  striking,  the  canon  com- 
mands the  admiration  of  the  spectator.  Through  breaks  in  the  walls  can  be 
caught  glimpses  of  the  valley  and  river,  the  noble  Rio  Grande  beneath. 
Experienced  travelers  who  have  made  the  "grand  tour"  say  that  this 
scene  resembles  choice  bits  in  Switzerland.  Ernest  Ingersoll  thus  describes 
the  valley  in  his  charming  book,  "  The  Crest  of  the  Continent"  :  "Emerg- 
ing from  Comanche  Canon,  a  bend  to  the  southward  is  made  along  the 
western  bank  of  the  lower  part  of  the  canon  of  the  Rio  Grande.     In  many 


PUEBLO    INDIANS. 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE.  m 

portions  of  this  narrow  valley,  only  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  features  of 
great  interest  to  the  eye  occur,  equaling  the  walls  of  Comanche,  which 
was  itself  ignored  until  the  railway  brought  it  to  the  light.  The  river  here 
is  about  sixty  yards  wide,  and  pours  with  a  swift  current  troubled  by  in- 
numerable fallen  rocks.  At  times  it  is  swollen  and  yellow  with  the  drift  of 
late  rains,  but  in  clear  weather  its  waters  are  bright  and  blue,  for  it  has  not 
yet  soiled  its  color  with  the  fine  silt  which  will  thicken  it  between  Texas  and 
Mexico.  On  the  opposite  bank,  near  the  level  of  the  river,  runs  the  wagon 
road  that  General  Edward  Hatch,  formerly  commander  of  the  department 
of  New  Mexico,  cut  some  years  ago  to  give  ready  communication  between 
his  headquarters  at  Santa  Fe  and  the  posts  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
Territory  and  in  southern  Colorado.  This  is  the  track  now  followed  by  all 
teamsters,  but  the  old  road  from  the  south  to  Taos  ran  over  the  hills  far  to 
the  eastward,  passing  through  Picuris." 

Embudo.  At  the  mouth  of  Comanche  Canon  stands  an  odd  conical 
hill  dividing  the  current  of  the  river.  Noticing  its  resemblance  to  a  funnel 
the  Mexicans  called  it  Embudo,  and  the  station  here  takes  the  same  name. 
Embudo  is  chiefly  important  as  the  point  of  departure  for  Taos,  whose 
remarkable  pueblo  is  described  further  on. 

Espanola.  This  little  village  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Denver 
&  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  and  is  of  interest  to  the  tourist  because  of  its  con- 
tiguity to  ancient  pueblos  and  the  ruins  of  Cliff  dwellings.  The  Santa  Fe 
Southern  Railroad  connects  here  with  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad, 
and  by  it  the  journey  is  continued  to  Santa  Fe.  Espanola's  tributary  indus- 
tries are  pastoral  and  agricultural.  (Population,  ioo.  Distance  from 
Denver,  370  miles.     Elevation,  5,590  feet.) 

Places  of  interest  near  Espanola. 
Santa  Cruz  is  a  most  interesting  old  Mexican 
town,  situated  on  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte, 
directly  opposite  Espanola.  Its  chief  attraction 
is  the  ancient  church  erected  in  the  sixteenth 
century,  which  contains  several  paintings  and 
images  sent  over  from  Spain. 

The  Pneblo  of  San  Juan  is  situated 
on  the  Rio  Grande,  about  four  miles  above 
Espanola,  and  one  and  one-half  mile  from  the  railroad.  There  are  twenty- 
six  similar  Indian  towns, nineteen  of  which  are  situated  in  New  Mexico,  and 
seven  in  Arizona.  Nine  of  them  are  on  the  line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad,  or  its  immediate  vicinity,  viz. :  Taos,  Picuris,  San  Juan, 
Santa  Clara,  San  Yldefonso,  Pojuaque,  Nombe,  Cuyamauque,  and  Tesuque. 
The  different  pueblos  closely  resemble  each  other  in  construction.  The 
dwellings  are  all  built  of  mud-colored  adobes,  or  sun-dried  bricks,  and  are 
arranged  so  as  to  inclose  a  plaza  or  public  square.  The  walls  are  from  two 
to  four  feet  in  thickness,  and  the  roofs  are  of  timber,  covered  with  dirt  a 
foot  or  more  in  depth  ;  many  houses  are  two,  and  some  even  four  and  five 
stories,  or  rather  terraces,  in  height,  each  successive  story  being  set  back 
some  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  from  the  side  walls  of  the  next  story  below. 
The  usual  manner  of  entering  these  dwellings  is  by  ascending  a  ladder 
outside  the  building  to  the  roof,  and  through  a  hole  descending  to  the  inter- 
ior by  another  ladder;  though  some,  as  a  modern  improvement,  have  doors 


SANTA  CRUZ 
PUEBLO  OF  SAN 

JUAN. 
PUEBLO  DE  TAOS. 


ri2  OVER   THE  RANGE 

cut  through  the  side  walls.  This  method  was  doubtless  adopted  as  a 
defensive  measure  during  troublesome  times-,  when  it  was  often  necessary 
to  convert  the  pueblo  into  a  fortress  from  which  to  repel  hostile  invasions. 

Pueblo  of  Santa  Clara  A  few  miles  below  the  pueblo  of  San 
Juan  is  the  pueblo  of  Santa  Clara,  just  across  the  river  from  Chamita,  a 
station  on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  line.  Its  characteristics  are  similar  to 
those  of  the  pueblos  already  described. 

The  Pueblo  tie  Taos.  Thirty  miles  above  Embudo  is  the  Pueblo 
de  Taos.  This  is  considered  the  most  interesting  as  well  as  the  most  per- 
fect specimen  of  a  Pueblo  Indian  fortress.  It  consists  of  two  communistic 
houses,  each  five  stories  high,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  church,  now  in  a 
ruined  condition,  which  stands  near,  although  apart  from,  the  dwellings. 
Around  the  fortress  are  seven  circular  mounds,  which  at  first  suggest  the 
idea  of  being  the  work  of  Mound  Builders.     On  further  examination  they 


•j&tmmx&SHmm 


NEW    MEXICAN    LIFE. 


prove  to  be  the  sweating  chambers,  or  Turkish  bath,  of  this  curious  people. 
The  largest  appears  also  to  serve  the  purpose  of  a  council  chamber  and 
mystic  hall,  where  rites  peculiar  to  the  tribe,  about  which  they  are  very 
reticent,  are  performed.  The  Pueblo  Indians  delight  to  adorn  themselves 
in  gay  colors,  and  form  very  interesting  and  picturesque  subjects  for  the 
artist,  especially  when  associated  with  their  quaint  surroundings.  They  are 
skilled  in  the  manufacture  of  pottery,  basket  making  and  bead  work.  The 
grand  annual  festival  of  these  Indians  occurs  on  the  30th  of  September,  and 
the  ceremonies  are  of  a  peculiarly  interesting  character. 

All  of  these  ancient  pueblos  are  easy  of  access  via  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad,  and  abound  in  objects  of  interest  dating  back  many 
hundreds  of  years  before  the  occupation  of  the  country  by  the  whites,  and 
will  fully  repay  the  tourist  for  the  time  and  expense  necessary  to  visit 
them. 

Espanola  to  Santa  Fe.  At  Espanola  the  Santa  Fe  Southern 
Railroad  connects  with  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  and   carries  the  tourist 


TO   THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


"3 


SANTA    FE, 

The  Oldest  Town   in  the 
United  States. 

Commercial   City  and 
Health    ResoVt. 

Population,  7,000. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
408  miles. 

Elevation,   7,046  feet. 


still  further  southward  to  the  capital  of  New  Mexico,  one  of  the  most 
interesting  cities  on  the  North  American  continent,  Santa  Fe.  En  route 
one  can  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  ruins  of  ancient  cliff  dwellings  perched  in 
the  alcoves  of  the  perpendicular  bluffs  which  rise  near  the  track.  The 
journey  is  only  a  distance  of  thirty-eight  miles  through  a  country  presenting 
novelty  to  the  eyes  of  those  unfamiliar  to  sub-tropical  scenes,  but  not  of  an 
especially  startling  character. 

The  capital  of  the  territory  of  New  .Mexico  is 
the  oldest  city  in  the  United  States,  there  being 
evidence  to  show  that  it  was  inhabited  as  early 
as  1325,  or  nearly  three  hundred  years  before 
the  pilgrim  fathers  landed  on  Plymouth  Rock. 
The  city  of  Holy  Faith  is  situated  on  both  sides 
of  the  Santa  Fe  Creek.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
and  the  buildings  are  almost  all  constructed  of 
adobe,  and  only  one  story  in  height.  The  city  is 
filled  with  antiquities,  the  most  remarkable  of 
which,  perhaps,  is  the  church  of  San  Miguel, 
built  in  1582,  and  the  Palace,  erected  in  1710. 
The  city  is  free  from  malaria  and  excessive 
heat  and  cold,  and  from  wind  and  sand  storms.  It  is  supplied  with  pure 
water  and  pure  air  from  the  the  mountains  surrounding ;  it  has  delightful 
scenery  beneath  bright  sunshine  with  glorious  sunsets;  it  has  .trout  in  its 
streams,  and  game  in  the  adjacent  hills  and  mountains;  the  people  are 
daily  supplied  at  their  doors  with  the  freshest  and  choicest  esculents  of 
home  production  ;  and  besides  possessing  wonderful  health-giving  proper- 
ties, it  is  one  of  the  most  comfortable  residence  cities  in  the  world.  This 
fact  is  rapidly  becoming  known  and  appreciated,  as  witness  its  growing 
popularity  both  as  a  summer  residence  for  people  from  the  South,  and  as 
a  winter  residence  for  people  from  the  North,  and  as  an  all-the-year-round 
residence  and  sanitarium  for  people  variously  in  search  of  health,  comfort, 
pleasure  and  business. 

Santa  Fe  is  the  chief  money  centre  of  the. Territory.  It  has  two  old  and 
well  established  national  banking  houses,  besides  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
dollars  for  loan  in  private  hands.  It  has  a  live  board  of  trade,  the  most 
able  and  distinguished  bar  in  the  Southwest.  A  splendid  agricultural, 
pastoral,  and  mining  country  is  tributary  to  the  city.  (Population,  7,000. 
Distance  from  Denver,  408  miles.     Elevation,  7,046  feet.) 


ALAMOSA  TO  SILVERTON. 


T  Antonito  the  line  branches,  that  to  Espanola  and  Santa  F6 
extending  due  south  and  that  to  Silverton  turning  to  the 
westward.  The  trip  from  Antonito  to  Silverton  is  one  of 
great  interest  and  abounds  in  scenic  attractions.  The  road 
gradually  climbs  out  of  the  valley  of  San  Luis  and  up  the 
eastward  slope  to  the  Conejos  range  of  mountains.  The  line  from  Big 
Horn  to  Arboles  is  constantly  among  the  hills,  and  the  stations  are  either 
for  the  convenience  of  stockmen  or  shipping  points  for  lumber,  and  while 
of  commercial  importance  to  the  railroad,  of  little  interest  to  the  tourist. 
During  the  summer  the  Conejos  Mountains  furnish  one  of  the  finest  ranges 
for  stock  in  Colorado,  and  it  goes  without  saying  that  these  grass-carpeted 
hills  and  vales  are  fully  occupied.  The  forest  growth  on  the  western  slope 
is  of  a  larger  and  more  dense  character  than  that  of  the  eastern.  Many 
sawmills  have  been  here  established,  and  the  manufacture  of  lumber  is  a 
large  industry.  The  climb  to  Chama  is  full  of  interest.  The  line  pursues 
a  tortuous  course,  following  the  convolutions  of  the  hills  and  making  the 
ascent  up  the  less  difficult  grades  of  the  gulches. 

.Los  Pilios  Valley.  Describing  a  number  of  large  curves  around 
constantly  deepening  depressions,  we  reached  the  breast  of  a  mountain, 
whence  we  obtain  our  first  glimpse  into  Los  Pinos  Valley,  and  it  comes  like 
a  sudden  revelation  of  beauty  and  grandeur.  The  approach  has  been 
picturesque  and  gentle  in  character.  Now  we  find  our  train  clinging  to  a 
narrow  pathway  carved  out  far  up  the  mountain's  side,  while  great  masses 
of  a  volcanic  conglomerate  tower  overhead,  and  the  faces  of  the  opposing 
heights  are  broken  into  bristling  crags.  The  river  sinks  deeper  and 
deeper  into  the  narrowing  vale,  and  the  space  beneath  us  to  its  banks  is 
excitingly  precipitous.  We  crowd  upon  the  platform,  the  outer  step  of 
which  sometimes  hangs  over  an  abyss  that  makes  us  shudder,  till  some 
friendly  bank  places  itself  between  us  and  the  almost  unbroken  descent. 
But  we  learn  to  enjoy  the  imminent  edge,  along  which  the  train  creeps  so 
cautiously,  and  begrudge  every  instant  that  the  landscape  is  shut  out  by 
intervening  objects.  To  say  that  the  vision  here  is  grand,  awe-inspiring, 
impressive  or  memorable,  falls  short  of  the  truth  in  each  case.  It  is  too 
much  to  take  in  at  once.  We  are  so  high  that  not  only  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  where  the  silvery  ribbon  of  the  Los  Pinos  trails  in  and  out  among 
the  trees,  and  underneath  the  headlands,  but  even  the  wooded  tops  of  the 
further  rounded  hills  are  below  us,  and  we  can  count  the  dim,  distant  peaks 
in  New  Mexico. 

Phantom  Curve.  One  ot  the  most  striking  scene?  o:i  the  line  of 
this  ascent  is  Phantom  Curve.  Just  after  the  side-track  station  of  Sublette 
(305  miles  from  Denver)  has  been  passed,  the  road  makes  a  great  bend 

114 


u6 


OVER    THE  RANGE 


around  the  side  of  a  mountain ;  on  the  left  rise  tall  monuments  of  sandstone, 
cut  by  the  elements  into  weird  and  fantastic  figures.  Here  is  indeed  a  wild 
spot,  with  the  valleys  so  deep  below,  the  grotesque,  red  monumental  rocks 
around,  the  tall,  shelving  cliffs  above.  A  mile  beyond  the  Curve  the  rail- 
road crosses  the  head  of  the  ravine  on  a  high  bridge  of  trestle  work.  From 
this  point  the  track  runs  directly  toward  the  valley,  on  a  line  almost  at 
right  angles  with  it,  to  where  it  narrows  into  a  mere  fissure  in  the  rocks  at 
Toltec  Gorge. 

The  approach  to  this  great  scenic  wonder 
prepares  the  traveler  for  something  extraordi- 
nary and  spectacular.  A  black  speck  in  the 
distance  against  the  precipitous  surface  of  a 
frowning  cliff  is  beheld  long  before  Toltec  is 
reached,  and  is  pointed  out  as  the  entrance  to 
the  tunnel  which  is  the  gateway  to  the  Gorge. 
As  the  advance  is  made  around  mountain  spurs 
and  deep  ravines,  glimpses  are  caught  of  pro- 
found depths  and  towering  heights,  the  black 
speck  widens  into  a  yawning  portcullis,  and  then  the  train,  making  a  detour 
of  four  miles  around  a  side  canon,  plunges  into  the  blackness  of  Toltec 
tunnel,  which  is  remarkable  in  that  it  pierces  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
instead  (if  its  base.  Fifteen  hundred  feet  of  perpendicular  descent  would 
take  one  to  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  while  the  seared  and  wrinkled  expanse 
of  the  opposite  wall  confronts  us,  lifting  its  massive  bulwarks  high  above  us. 

"Fronting  heaven's  splendor, 
Strong  and  full  and  clear." 

When  the  train  emerges  from  the  tunnel  it  is  upon  the  brink  of  a  preci- 
pice.    A  solid  bridge  of  iron  and  masonry,  set  in  the  rock  after  the  manner 


Toltec    Gorge, 

A   Scenic  Wonder. 

Depth  of  Gorge, 

1,500  feet. 

Distance  from   Denver, 
314   miles. 


f    ' 


-      :-  :!     : 


of  a  balcony,  supports  the       iSH 
track,  and  from  this  coigne  phantom  curve. 

of  vantage  the  traveler  be- 
holds a  most  thrilling  spectacle.     The  tremendous  gorge,  whose  sides  are 
splintered  rocks  and  monumental  crags  and  whose  depths  are  filled  with 
the  snow-white  waters  of  a  foaming  torrent,  lies  beneath  him,  the  blue  sky 
is  above  him  and  all  around  the  majesty  and  mystery  of  the  mountains. 


TOLTEC   GORGE. 


n8 


OVER   THE  RANGE. 


GARFIELD    MEMORIAL 


Garfield  Memorial.     To 

the  left  of  the  track,  just  beyond 
the  bridge,  stands  a  monument  of 
granite.  Curiosity  is  naturally 
excited  at  beholding  this  polished 
shaft,  and  the  questions  which 
arise  as  to  its  origin  can  be  briefly 
answered  as  follows:  On  the 
26th  day  of  September,  1881,  the 
National  Association  of  General 
Passenger  Agents  (then  on  an 
excursion  over  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad),  at  the  time 
President  Garfield  was  being 
buried  in  Cleveland,  held  memor- 
ial services  at  the  mouth  of  Toltec 
tunnel  and  since  have  erected 
this  beautiful  monument  in  com- 
memoration of  the  event. 

Cumbres.  This  small  sta- 
tion is  on  the  summit  of  the 
Conejos  Range,  which  we  are  now 

crossing,  and,  having  passed  it,  we  are  on  the  Pacific  slope.     (Population, 
nominal.     Distance  from  Denver,  329  miles.     Elevation,  10,015  feet.) 

Cliania.  This  is  an  eating  station,  where,  in  spite  of  primitive  accom- 
modations, an  excellent  meal  can  be  obtained.  Large  quantities  of  lumber 
are  shipped  from  here,  and  the  surrounding  country  is  an  excellent  range 
for  stock.  (Population,  300.  Distance  from  Denver,  343  miles.  Elevation, 
7,863  feet.) 

Amargo.  This  little  station  is  in  the  midst  of  attractive  scenery,  but 
is  especially  worthy  of  mention  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  station  at  which 
tourists  and  health  seekers  take  the  stage  for  Pagosa  Springs. 

Pagosa  Springs,  the  far  famed  "big  medi- 
cine "  of  the  Utes,  the  greatest  thermal  fountains 
on  the  continent,  are  situated  in  Archuleta  County, 
twenty-eight  miles  northwest  of  Amargo,  the 
nearest  railway  station,  on  the  New  Mexico 
extension  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 
These  Springs  lie  upon  the  northern  bank  of 
the  San  Juan  River,  at  an  altitude  of  seven 
thousand  feet,  and  in  a  situation  combining 
numerous  advantages  and  attractions.  To  the 
north  are  the  peaks  of  the  San  Juan  range,  east 
and  west  are  the  grassy  plains  dotted  with  immense  pines  and  far  to  the 
south  the  undulating  prairie  stretches  into  New  Mexico.  With  such  an 
environment,  the  Pagosa  Springs  must  ere  long  gain  the  celebrity  to  which 
their  medicinal  qualities  undoubtedly  entitle  them.  The  Indians  having 
long  been  aware  of  the  healing  powers  of  these  "  great  medicine  waters," 
and  have,  until  recently,  jealously  guarded  their  possession.  It  is  not  sur- 
prising that  these  children  of  the  wilderness,  who  find  relief  from   distress 


Pagosa   Springs. 

The    "  Big  Medicine"    of 
the  Indians. 

HOT  SPRINGS, 

Health  and  Pleasure 
Resort. 

Elevation,  7,108  feet. 


iuai 

CASTLE  OF  THE  CUFF  DWELLERS,  MANCOS  CANON,  COLORADO. 


120  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

mainly  from  the  medications  of  Nature,  should  deplore  the  loss  of  these  power- 
ful thermal  waters.  Within  a  basin  seventy  feet  long  and  fifty  feet  wide, 
formed  from  its  own  alkaline  deposits,  which  are  twenty  or  thirty  feet  thick, 
the  water  bubbles  up  at  a  temperature  of  153"  Fahrenheit.  There  are  four 
other  springs  in  the  immediate  locality,  their  similarity  to  the  main  source, 
as  shown  by  analysis,  suggesting  a  common  origin.  Upon  a  cold  morning 
the  steam  which  rises  from  these  different  springs  can  be  seen  at  a  distance 
of  several  miles.  These  purgative,  alkaline  waters,  with  the  large  excess  of 
sulphate  of  soda,  so  much  increased  in  medicinal  virtue  by  the  degree 
of  temperature,  would  seem  to  designate  Pagosa  as  the  Bethesda  for 
sufferers  from  calculus  disorders,  gravel  with  uric  diathesis,  rheumatism 
and  skin  diseases,  when  alterative  and  depleting  treatment  is  indicated. 
New  bath  houses  are  being  erected,  and  the  tourist  will  find  good  accom- 
modations here. 

The  Pacific  Slope.  From  Chama  to  Durango,  the  ride  is  down 
grade  and  through  a  most  interesting  country.  Hills  and  valleys  of  great 
beauty,  meadows  covered  with  thick  growing  grass,  forests  of  giant  trees, 
are  some  of  the  many  attractions  of  this  trip.  For  details  of  information 
concerning  the  small  stations,  the  tourist  is  referred  to  the  tables  given  in 
another  part  of  this  book.  The  line  passes  through  the  Indian  reservation. 
Ignacio.  At  Ignacio  the  Indian  reservation  is  reached  and  the  rude 
tepees  of  the  Southern  Utes  can  be  seen  pitched  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio 
de  las  Florida.  Occasionally  a  glimpse  can  be  caught  of  a  stolid  brave, 
tricked  out  in  all  his  savage  finery,  gazing  fixedly  at  the  train  as  it  speeds 
by.  Frequently  there  is  quite  a  little  group  of  these  aborigines  at  the 
station,  and  they  are  always  ready  to  exchange  bows  and  arrows,  trophies 
of  the  chase,  or  specimens  of  their  rude  handiwork,  in  return  for  very  hard 
cash. 

This  thriving  city  is  the  county  seat  of  La 
Plata  County,  Colorado,  and  is  the  commercial 
centre  of  southwestern  Colorado.  It  is  the 
market  for  the  agricultural  region  of  Farming- 
ton  and  Bloomfield,  New  Mexico,  and  the  valleys 
of  the  Rio  de  las  Animas,  the  Rio  Florida,  etc. 

Two  miles  below  Durango  is  the  wonderful 
"  ninety-two  feet  thick  "  vein  of  coal,  one'of  the 
largest  in  the  State,  and  here  are  also  great  coke 
ovens.  All  the  surrounding  hills  are  more 
heavily  timbered  than  in  any  other  part  of 
Colorado.  In  addition  to  its  many  other  resources  Durango  boasts  of  two  of 
the  largest  smelters  in  the  State,  reducing  from  their  native  state  the 
precious  ores  of  the  wonderfully  rich  mines  of  the  entire  San  Juan. 

With  two  railroads  in  operation,  and  several  in  contemplation,  and  with 
its  natural  resources  Durango  will  in  time,  and  a  very  short  time  too,  prove 
to  be  the  metropolis  of  the  Great  Southwest. 

The  famous  Cliff  Ruins,  a  description  of  which  will  be  found  further 
on,  are  reached  from  Durango,  by  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  Railroad  to 
Mancos  Station,  thence  by  saddle  horses  or  wagons. 

In  a  word,  Durango  is  one  of  the  most  progressive  towns  in  Colorado, 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  country  of  unexampled  richness.     Mining,  agricul- 


DURANGO. 

Metropolis 

of  the  San  Juan. 

Population,  8,000. 

Distance  from    Denver, 

via  Veta  Pass  450  miles. 

Via  Salida,  502  miles. 

Via  Ridgway,  540  miles. 

Elevation,  6,520  feet. 


122  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

tural  and  pastoral  pursuits  all  contribute  to  her  success;  but  best  of  all 
her  business  men  are  alive,  and  by  their  liberality,  generosity  and  push 
insure  a  good  future  for  the  city. 

Farming'ton,  Bloomfield  and  Aztec  are  growing  towns  in  New 
Mexico,  just  over  the  southern  line  of  La  Plata  County.  They  are  in  the 
heart  of  a  large  agricultural  and  stock  growing  district,  and  near  many 
ruins  of  the  homes  of  the  ancient  Cliff  Dwellers. 

Trimble  Hot  Springs  are  reached  nine  miles  above  Durango. 
The  spacious  hotel  stands  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  road  to  the  left  of 
the  track.  Here  are  medicinal  hot  springs  of  great  curative  value,  and 
here,  in  the  season,  gather  invalids  and  pleasure  seekers  to  drink  the  waters 
and  enjoy  the  delights  of  this  charming  resort.  The  water  as  it  pours  out  of 
the  rock  is  at  a  temperature  of  120  degrees,  and  runs  constantly  in  a  stream 
three  inches  in  diameter.  Within  two  feet  of  it  is  another  spring  flowing 
as  much  more  in  a  stream  of  cold  water.  Bath  houses  have  been  erected, 
and  the  hot  and  cold  water  can  be  mixed.  The  medicinal  properties  of 
these  springs  are  beyond  question.  Four  miles  further  up  the  Animas 
valley  are  the  Pinkerton  springs  of  warm  water,  closely  resembling  in 
properties  those  at  Trimble's.  Leaving  the  springs  behind,  the  train 
speeds  up  the  valley,  which  gradually  narrows  as  the  advance  is  made,  the 
ascending  grade  becomes  steeper,  the  hills  close  in,  and  soon  the  view  is 
restricted  to  the  rocky  gorge  within  whose  depths  the  raging  waters  of  the 
Animas  sway  and  swirl. 

Magnificent  Scenery.  From  Durango,  the  metropolis  of  the  San 
Juan,  to  Silverton,  the  scenery  is  of  surpassing  grandeur  and  beauty.  The 
railroad  follows  up  the  course  of  the  Animas  River  (to  which  the  Spaniards 
gave  the  musical  but  melancholy  title  of  "  Rio  de  las  Animas  Perdidas,"  or 
River  of  Lost  Souls)  until  the  picturesque  mining  town  of  Silverton  is 
reached.  The  valley  of  the  Animas  is  traversed  before  the  canon  is 
entered,  and  the  traveler's  eyes  are  delighted  with  succeeding  scenes  of 
sylvan  beauty.  To  the  right  is  the  river,  beyond  which  rise  the  hills  ;  to  the 
left  are  mountains,  increasing  in  rugged  contour  as  the  advance  is  made ; 
between  the  track  and  the  river  are  cultivated  fields  and  cosy  farm-houses, 
while  evidences  of  peace,  prosperity  and  plenty  are  to  be  seen  on  every  hand. 

This  beautiful  canon  has  characteristics  pe- 
culiarly its  own.  The  railroad  does  not  follow 
the  bed  of  the  stream,  but  clings  to  the  cliffs 
midway  of  their  height,  and  a  glance  from  the 
car  windows  gives  one  the  impression  of  a  view 
from  a  balloon.  Below,  a  thousand  feet,  are  the 
waters  of  the  river,  in  places  white  with  foam,  in 
quiet  coves,  green  as  ocean's  depths.  Above, 
five  hundred  feet,  climb  the  combing  cliffs,  to 


ANIHAS   CANON. 

A  Gem  of  Beauty. 
Depth,      1,500      feet. 

Distance     from     Denver, 
470  miles. 


which  cling  pines  and  hemlocks.  The  canon  here  is  a  mere  fissure  in  the 
mountain'sheart,  so  narrow  that  one  can  easily  toss  a  stone  across  and  send 
it  bounding  down  the  side  of  the  opposing  rock-wall  until  it  falls  into  the 
waters  of  the  river  rushing  through  the  abyss  below.  Emerging  from  this 
wonderful  chasm,  the  bed  of  the  gorge  rises  until  the  roadway  is  but  a  few 
feet  above  the  stream.  The  close,  confining  and  towering  walls  of  rock  are 
replaced  by  mountains  of  supreme  height.     The  Needles,  which  are  among 


124 


OVER   THE  RANGE. 


the  most  peculiar  and  striking  of  the  Rockies,  thrust  their  sharp  and  splin- 
tered peaks  into  the  regions  of  eternal  frost. 

Elk  Park  is  a  quiet  little  nook  in  the  midst  of  the  range,  with  vistas 
of  meadow  and  groves  of  pines,  a  spot  which  would  furnish  the  artist  many 
a  subject  for  his  canvas.  At  the  end  of  Elk  Park  stands  Garfield  Peak, 
lifting  its  summit  a  mile  above  the  track.  Beyond  are  marshalled  the  ever- 
lasting mountains,  and  through  them  for  miles  extends,  in  varying  beauty 
and  grandeur,  the  Canon  of  the  Animas.  Frequent  waterfalls  glisten  in  the 
sunlight,  leaping  from  crag  to  crag  only  to  lose  themselves  at  last  in  the 
onflowing  river.  Emerging  finally  from  this  environment  of  crowding  cliffs, 
the  train  sweeps  into  Baker's  Park  and  arrives  at  Silverton  in  the  heart  of 
the  San  Juan. 

This  thriving  and  picturesque  little  city  is 
the  county  seat  of  San  Juan  County,  Colorado, 
and  derives  its  support  from  the  surrounding 
mines,  which  are  scattered  in  every  portion  of 
the  county.  The  output  of  the  camp  has 
swelled  from  an  annual  product  of  $40,000  to 
$2,000,000  in  three  years.  From  600  to  1,000  tons 
of  ore  are  shipped  weekly  from  Silverton,  and 
the  product  is  constantly  increasing.  An  indus- 
try of  no  small  importance,  and  which  is  rapidly 
assuming  large  dimensions,  is  the  system  of 
leasing  mines,  and  it  may  be  said  that  at  least  one-half  of  the  producing 
mines  are  now  being  worked  by  lessees.  Hundreds  of  prospects  that  are 
in  a  condition  to  ship  paying  mineral  are  now  laying  idle,  awaiting  the 
arrival  of  thrifty  miners  to  take  and  work  them  under  this  system.  The 
scenery  around  Silverton  is  of  the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  character, 
Entrance  to  Baker's  Park,  in  which  the  town  lies,  is  made  through  the 
famous  Animas  Canon.  Hid  in  a  theatre  of  hills,  the  picturesqueness  of 
the  surroundings  cannot  be  adequately  described.  Sultan  Mountain,  one  of 
the  grandest  of  the  San  Juan  Range,  towers  above  the  town  ;  its  summit 
crowned  with  snow  from  which  descend  innumerable  rills,  glittering  like 
silver  in  the  sunbeams. 


SI LVERTON. 

Picturesque  Mining 
Town. 

Population,     2,500. 

Distance  from    Denver, 
495    miles. 

Elevation,  9,224  feet. 


DURANGO   TO   RIDGWAY 

VIA  RIO   GRANDE   SOUTHERN   RAILROAD. 


EAVING  Durango  via  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  line,  the 
tourist  is  whisked  across  the  Rio  de  Las  Animas  up  Lightner 
Creek,  past  the  silver  and  gold  smelters  with  their  seething 
furnaces  and  smoke  and  dust-begrimed  workmen,  and 
shortly  past  the  famous  coal  banks  where  the  black  diamond 
is  dug  from  the  bowels  of  Mother  Earth,  and  from  there  hauled  to  the 
smelters  where  it  is  used  for  the  reduction  and  refining  of  its  more 
exalted,  but  not  more  useful  brethren. 

Up  through  the  valley  the  train  speeds  along  among  huge  pines  which 
thus  far  have  escaped  the  woodman's  axe,  and  which  will  be  free  from  such 
invasion  as  long  as  Uncle  Sam  claims  this  particular  spot  as  the  especial 
reservation  for  the  military  post  at  old  Fort  Lewis. 

From  Fort  Lewis  the  line  passes  through  seemingly  endless  forests  of 
pine  trees,  and  after  the  reservation  is  passed  an  occasional  saw-mill  is 
sighted  from  its  emitting  unearthly  screeches,  which  the  knowing  ones  say 
is  merely  the  head  sawyer  sharpening  up.  Descending  the  mountain  into 
the  valley,  the  beholder  looks  out  on  a  broad  expanse  of  fertile,  well-watered 
country,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  snow-capped  mountains,  and  dotted 
with  the  rancheros  of  the  hardy  pioneer,  who  has  been  well  repaid  for  his 
daring  in  locating  in  this  far-away  but  beautiful  valley,  by  its  productive- 
ness, and  now  that  the  railroad,  that  greatest  of  all  civilizers,  has  come,  he 
has  abundant  opportunities  for  the  disposition  of  his  products. 

In  the  centre  of  this  valley  lies  Mancos  station,  which  is  the  junction 
with  the  main  line  of  the  proposed  extension  of  this  road  into  Arizona. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  portions  of  Colo- 
rado, to  the  scientist,  antiquarian  and  indeed, 
the  general  tourist,  is  that  part  in  which  are 
found  the  cliff-dwellings  of  a  long  extinct  race. 
Some  of  the  most  remarkable  of  these  ancient 
ruins  are  situated  in  the  Mancos  canon,  within 
a  day's  ride  of  Durango.  A  brief  description  of 
one  of  these  will  serve  as  a  characterization  of 
all.  Perched  seven  hundred  feet  above  the 
valley,  on  a  little  ledge  only  just  large  enough  to  hold  it,  stands  a  two-story 
house  made  of  finely-cut  sandstone,  each  block  about  fourteen  by  six  inches, 
accurately  fitted  and  set  in  mortar,  now  harder  than  the  stone  itself.  The 
floor  is  the  ledge  of  the  rock,  and  the  roof  the  overhanging  cliff.  There  are 
three  rooms  on  the  ground  floor,  each  one  six  by  nine  feet,  with  partition 
walls  of  faced  stone.    Traces  of  a  floor  which  once  separated  the   upper 

126 


THE 

Cliff 

Dwellings. 

Relics  of 

A  Pre=Historic  Race. 

Ruins 

Older 

than  History. 

RWF\.T" 


ANIMAS   CANON    AND  THE    NEEDLE    MOUNTAIN. 


128  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

from  the  lower  story  still  remain.  Each  of  the  stories  is  six  feet  in  height, 
and  all  the  rooms  are  nicely  plastered  and  painted,  what  now  looks  a  dull 
brick  red  color,  with  a  white  band  along  the  floor.  The  windows  are  "f  " 
shaped  apertures  with  no  signs  of  glazing,  commanding  a  view  of  the  whole 
valley  for  many  miles.  One  of  our  illustrations  shows  a  fortified  watch-tower, 
indicating  that  these  strange  cliff -dwelling  people  were  prepared. to  resist 
assault.  Traditions  are  few  and  of  history  there  is  nothing  concerning  this 
lost  race.  Their  ruined  houses  only  remain,  and  some  broken  fragments  of 
the  implements  made  use  of  in  war  and  peace.  Researches  are  in  progress 
concerning  these  extremely  interesting  ruins  and  new  facts  are  being 
developed  concerning  their  architecture ;  but  it  is  quite  improbable  that 
any  certain  light  will  ever  be  thrown  on  their  origin  or  history. 

To  the  south  of  Mancos  station,  within  a  day's  ride,  and  easily  accessi- 
ble, are  the  principal  ruins  of  the  strange  habitations  of  this  extinct  and 
mysterious  race.  To  those  seeking  curiosities  and  wonders,  the  great 
Canon  of  the  Mancos,  the  great  Montezuma  Valley,  the  McElmo  Canon, 
the  Lower  Animas  Valley,  and  the  Chaco  Canon  are  the  wonderlands  of  the 
world.  They  contain  thousands  of  homes,  and  a  town  of  the  ancient  race 
of  Mound  Builders  and  "  Cliff  Dwellers,"  that  has  attracted  the  curious 
ever  since  the  discovery  of  America.  The  great  Mancos  Canon  contains 
hundreds  of  these  homes  which  were  built  and  occupied  thousands  of  years 
ago.  Yet  many  of  them  are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  in  them 
have  been  found  many  specimens  of  pottery  and  implements  of  husbandry 
and  warfare.  This  canon  is  cut  through  Mesa  Verde,  a  distance  of  thirty 
miles,  and  the  walls  on  either  side  rise  to  a  perpendicular  height  of  two 
thousand  feet.  These  cliff  dwellings  are  built  in  the  sides  of  the  canon,  as 
shown  in  the  illustration.  Fifteen  miles  farther  west  from  the  Mancos  is 
situated  the  great  Montezuma  Valley,  where  thousands  of  fine  specimens  of 
pottery  have  been  found  among  the  ruins  of  that  ancient  people.  On  the 
west  side  of  this  valley  is  the  great  McElmo  Canon,  also  full  of. the  ancient 
homes  of  the  "Cliff  Dwellers."  Thirty-five  miles  south  of  Durango,  in  the 
valley  of  the  Animas,  are  some  extensive  ruins  of  the  Aztecs,  and  fifty  miles 
further  south  are  the  wonderful  ruins  in  the  Chaco  Canon.  These  ancient 
Pueblos  are,  without  doubt,  the  most  extensive  and  the  best  preserved  of 
any  in  the  United  States.  Of  these  Prof.  Hayden  in  his  report  of  the 
Geological  Survey  of  the  United  States  for  the  year  1866,  says:  "The 
great  ruins  in  the  Chaco  Canon  are  pre-eminently  the  finest  examples  of 
the  works  of  the  unknown  builders  to  be  found  north  of  the  seat  of  ancient 
Aztec  Empire  in  Mexico."  There  are  eleven  extensive  Pueblos  in  this 
canon,  nearly  all  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  their  appearance  indi- 
cates that  they  were  once  the  home  of  fifteen  hundred  to  three  thousand 
people  each.  From  the  thousands  of  ruins  of  cities,  towns  and  families 
found  throughout  this  great  San  Juan  Valley,  it  is  evident  that  once 
this  great  valley  was  the  home  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  this 
extinct  race.  That  they  were  a  peaceful  and  agricultural  race  of  people  is 
evidenced  by  the  large  number  of  their  implements  of  husbandry  and 
the  specimens  of  corn  and  beans  found  in  these  ruins,  besides  irrigating 
ditches  and  reservoirs  for  the  storage  of  water. 

Mancos.  The  debarking  point  for  the  cliff  ruins  as  mentioned  above 
and  the  leading  town  of  the  valley.     Shipping  point  for  large  numbers  of 


CLIFF   DWELLINGS, 


13°  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

cattle  and  sheep.  (Distance  from  Denver  490  miles.  Population  300.  Ele- 
vation 7,008  feet.) 

Leaving  Mancos,  the  road  winds  up  the  sloping  sides  of  a  flat-topped 
mountain,  and  there  on  its  summit,  among  huge  pines  centuries  old,  bubbles 
up  a  clear,  cold  spring  of  sparkling  water,  forming  the  stream  thai  ilows 
down  through  the  beautiful  Lost  Canon,  and  which  is  called  by  the  unpoetic 
name  of  "  Lost  Canon  Creek." 

Lost  Canon  is  a  novelty  in  itself,  as  its  sides  are  densely  wooded  and 
softly  carpeted  with  a  thick  bed  of  moss  and  leaves,  beautifully  colored  by 
millions  of  Colorado  wild  flowers  whose  delicate  beauty  is  unrivaled. 

Emerging  from  Lost  Canon  the  traveler  is  whirled  up  to  the  beautiful 
Valley  of  the  Dolores  River,  with  its  many  ranches  and  farms,  past  the 
town  of  the  same  name.  Off  to  the  left,  flowing  to  the  eastward,  comes 
bubbling  down  the  mountain  side  into  the  larger  river,  the  West  Dolores, 
and  no  more  famous  or  prolific  trout  stream  exists  than  this. 

Dolores.  One  of  the  principal  towns  in  Southwestern  Colorado,  It  is 
the  shipping  point  for  the  southeastern  part  of  Utah  and  from  whence  the  Gold 
Hunters  start  on  their  prospecting  trips  to  the  canons  of  the  San  Juan  and 
Colorado  Rivers.  (Population  500.  Distance  from  Denver,  510  miles.  Ele- 
vation 6,957  feet.) 

Dolores  Canon.  Continuing  on  up  the  main  river,  the  valley  begins 
to  narrow  down,  until  we  are  once  more  within  the  walls  of  a  canon  which 
takes  its  name  from  the  stream  flowing  through  it.  While  this  canon  is  not 
particularly  deep,  its  natural  beauties  are  manifold  and  are  sure  to  make  a 
lasting  and  delightful  impression  on  the  beholder. 

Rushing  out  of  the  canon  the  tourist  is  now  landed  at  Rico. 

Kico  is  one  of  the  most  important  mining  towns  of  the  State,  whose 
mines  dot  the  mountain 'sides,  and  whose  product  is  packed  to  the  cars  on 
the  backs  of  the  ever  patient  and  faithful  burro,  without  which  no  mining 
camp  can  be  complete. 

Rico  ranks  among  the  "  cities  of  the  first  class  "  and  has  all  the  facilities 
and  improvements  of  a  town  of  ten  times  its  population.  Its  principal 
industries  are  those  connected  with  mining  interests,  though  considerable 
agricultural  country  surrounds  it.  The  town  is  located  in  what  was  at  one 
time  the  crater  of  a  large  volcano.  Precipitous  mountains  with  poetic 
names  arise  upon  all  sides  of  it,  gradually  widening,  until  by  describing  a 
circle  of  their  summits  they  appear  as  the  top  of  a  huge  funnel.  Among 
them  is  the  famous  Telescope  Mountain,  a  freak  of  nature  only  to  be  seen 
to  form  a  proper  realization  of  the  aptness  of  its  name.  The  place  has 
much  of  historic  interest,  as  evidences  of  early  Spanish  discoveries  are 
found  on  many  sides.  (Population  3,000.  Distance  from  Denver,  via  Ridg- 
way,  444  ;  via  Durango,  546  miles.     Elevation  8,737  feet.) 

Lizard  Head  Pass.  Leaving  Rico,  the  line  continues  up  the 
Dolores,  which  grows  smaller  and  smaller,  until  it  becomes  a  mere  silver 
thread  winding  in  and  out  among  huge  rocks  and  boulders.  Thirteen 
miles  north  of  Rico,  and  after  climbing  many  miles  of  three  and  four  per 
cent,  grades,  the  summit  of  the  Lizard  Head  Pass  is  reached  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  nearly  11,000  feet.  From  the  summit  and  to  the  left  will  be  seen 
the  Lizard   Head,  a  peculiar  rock  formation  capping  a  tall,  bare  mountain. 


*  mw>fr30$~   ^ 


I32  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

This  rock  derives  its  name  from  its  resemblance  to  the  head  of  a  mountain 
lizard,  though  at  the  same  time  it  may  be  said  to  resemble  the  shaft  of  some 
large  monument. 

Descending  the  pass  through  the  mountain  gorges  over  rushing  moun- 
tain streams,  one  finds  one's  self  at 

Trout  Lake.  No  more  graphic  description  of  this  sheet  of  beautiful 
blue  water  can  be  given  than  a  verse  from  a  poem  by  "  H.  H." 

"The  mountain's  wall  in  the  water  ; 
It  looks  like  a  great  blue  cup  ; 
And  the  sky  looks  like  another 
Turned  over,  bottom  side  up." 

Here  the  sport-inclined  tourist  may  spend  a  few  days,  for  the  lake  is 
inhabited  by  thousands  and  thousands  of  mountain  trout.  Accommodations 
of  a  primitive,  though  wholesome  character,  can  be  obtained  of  the  neigh- 
boring ranchmen.  (Population  nominal.  Distance  from  Denver,  via  Ridg- 
way  427  miles  ;  via  Durango  563  miles.     Elevation  9,400  feet.) 

Shortly  after  leaving  Trout  Lake,  the  famous 

Ophir  Loop  is  passed.  Here  the  skill  of  the  engineer  was  taxed  to 
its  utmost,  for  the  track  winds  in  zig-zags  down  the  mountain  side,  rushing 
through  a  deep  cut  here,  over  a  mountain  torrent  and  a  high  bridge  there, 
darting  around  sharp  curves,  in  and  out  of  snowsheds,  until  on  the  opposite 
mountain  and  high  above  us  is  to  be  seen  a  line  of  freshly-turned  earth, 
which  the  knowing  ones  say  is  the  track  over  which  we  have  just  passed. 

From  Vance  Junction,  a  side  trip  of  ten  miles,  which  will  repay 
the  tourist,  can  be  made  to 

Telluride,  a  mining  town  of  some  2,500  inhabitants,  nestling  among 
snow-capped  mountains,  rising  to  stupendous  heights  and  rich  in  gold  and 
silver.  Like  all  the  towns  of  the  San  Juan,  mining  is  the  principal  resource 
of  the  city ;  at  Telluride  are  located  some  of  the  largest  and  richest  mines 
in  the  country.  (Distance  from  Denver,  via  Ridgway  423  miles  ;  via  Duran- 
go ^82  miles.     Elevation  8,756  feet.) 

From  Vance  Junction  the  journey  is  continued  down  the  San  Miguel 
River,  past  Placerville,  until  the  river  leaves  the  rail,  and  again  we  com- 
mence to  go  up  ;  this  time  over  the  Dallas  Divide.  This  pass  resembles 
Marshall  Pass,  though  not  quite  so  long.  After  reaching  the  summit,  the 
line  runs  down  the  eastern  slope  along  Leopard  Creek,  high  above  it  on  the 
mountain  side,  giving  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  Uncompahgre  Range 
to  the  south  with  its  gentle  slopes  softly  colored  by  the  deep,  dark  foliage  of 
dense  pine  and  fir  forests;  gradually  rising  until  the  mountains  develop  into 
a  huge  mass  of  shattered  pinnacles,  their  topmost  points  covered  with  the 
everlasting  snow. 

Ridgway.  This  bustling  little  town  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
Rio  Grande  Southern  Railroad,  and  its  junction  point  with  the  Ouray  branch 
of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  shops  and  headquarters  are 
here,  giving  employment  to  a  large  portion  of  its  inhabitants.  A  fine  agri- 
cultural, as  well  as  a  very  rich  mining  region  surround  Ridgway,  and  give 
promise  of,  making  it  a  large  and  prosperous  city.  (Distance  from  Denver 
378  miles  ;  via  Durango  612  miles.    Population,  1,000.    Elevation,  7,002  feet.) 


CATHEDRAL  SPIRE.— OPHIR  LOOP. 


SILVERTON  TO  MONTROSE. 


HE  trip  from  Silverton  to  Montrose  across  the  intervening  range  of 
mountains,  is  not  at  all  the  difficult  undertaking  it  looks  to  be. 
Here,  blocking  the  way,  is  one  of  the  most  rugged  and  lofty  chains 
of  the  great  Rocky  Mountain  system,  which  but  recently  only  the 
adventurous  prospector  and  his  sure  footed  burro  (donkey)  dared  to 
cross  ;  but  now  the  journey  has  been  rendered  an  easy  accomplishment  by  the 
building  of  the  Silverton  Railway  over  Red  Mountain  to  Ironton,  from  whicn  point 
comfortable  stages  carry  the  tourist  a  distance  of  eight  miles  to  Ouray,  where  the 
trip  is  continued  by  way  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad.  The  construction 
of  the  Silverton  Railway  was  a  task  of  great  magnitude,  and  one  remarkable 
feature  about  it  is  that  it  owes  its  existence  to  the  enterprise  and  daring  of  one 
man.  For  years  Mr.  Otto  Mears  has  been  the  "pathfinder"  of  the  San  Juan 
country,  and  the  toll  roads  constructed  by  him  have  opened  the  way  to  the  many 
rich  mining  camps  of  that  argentiferous  region.  Recently  enlarging  his  field  of 
usefulness,  he  began  unaided  and  alone  the  building  of  this  mountain  railroad; 
himself  being  both  bond  owner,  stockholder,  corporation,  president,  board  o» 
trustees,  treasurer,  auditor,  general  manager,  chief  engineer  and  paymaster.  The 
result  has  been  one  of  the  most  remarkable  achievements  in  engineering  of  modern 
times.  The  road  has  the  same  gauge  as  that  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande,  and 
like  it  finds  no  grade  so  stubborn  as  to  be  insurmountable.  Taking  the  cars  at  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  depot,  at  Silverton,  the  ascent  of  the  mountains  is  at  once 
begun.  There  is  no  preliminary  skirmishing  along  level  ground  for  Silverton  lies 
at  the  bottem  of  a  bowl-shaped  valley,  and  the  mountains  rise  round  about  on  all 
sides  to  tremendous  heights.  With  curves,  whose  sinuosity  surpasses  that  of  the 
serpent's  trail,  the  railroad  climbs  up  the  gulches,  until  at  the  mining  station  of 
Chattanooga  the  track  makes  an  almost  perfect  loop,  the  cars  traveling  several  miles 
forward  and  the  same  distance  back  —  and  there  lies  Chattanooga  directly  beneath 
us  !  All  that  has  been  gained  is  altitude.  This  is  equivalent,  however,  to  a  direct 
progress  of  a  thousand  feet,  though  it  has  taken  a  journey  of  fifteen  thousand  feet 
to  accomplish  it.  At  the  summit  of  the  range  the  railroad  reaches  an  altitude  of 
12.000  feet,  and  the  view  is  something  to  be  remembered  a  life  time.  At  one  point 
of  the  descent  it  has  been  necessary  to  construct  a  switch-back  reversing  the  course 
of  the  train,  and  yet  continuing  the  descent.  This  switch-back  is  a  novel  applica- 
tion of  engineering  science,  and  is  an  exceedingly  interesting  piece  of  railroad 
work.  The  ascent  and  descent  of  Red  Mountain  by  this  wonderful  railway,  give 
the  tourist  not  only  an  opportunity  to  behold  the  grandest  of  mountain  scenery, 
but  also  the  privilege  of  witnessing  on  all  sides  the  progress  of  mining  operations. 
The  shafts,  shaft  houses,  tunnels,  and  "prospect"  holes  of  mines  in  fact  or  in 
futuro,  are  to  be  seen  on  all  sides.  The  mines  of  Red  Mountain  are  numerous,  and 
several  of  them  rank  among  the  richest  in  the  world.     At  Ironton,  a  typical  mining 

134 


BEAR    CREEK    FALLS. 


136 


OVER    THE    RANGE. 


town,  the  Silverton  Railroad  has  its  terminus,  and  here  stages  are   taken  for  the 
eight  miles  ride  to  Ouray. 

A  Romantic  Stage  Ride.  The  stage  ride  forms  on<e  of  the  most 
attractive  features  of  this  most  attractive  journey.  Lasting  only  three  hours,  pass- 
ing over  the  summits  of  ranges  and  through  the  depths  of  canons,  the  tourist  will 
find  this  a  welcome  variation  to  his  method  of  travel,  and  a  great  relief  and  recrea- 
tion. The  old  fashioned  stage,  with  all  its  romantic  associations,  is  rapidly  becom- 
ing a  thing  of  the  past.  A  year  or  two  more  and  it  will  have  disappeared  entirely 
from  Colorado.  Here,  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the  grandest  scenery  on  the  conti- 
nent, the  blue  sky  above,  and  the  fresh,  pure  exhilarating  mountain  air  sending  the 
blood  bounding  through  one's  veins,  to  clamber  into  a  Concord  coach  and  be 
whirled  along  a  splendidly  constructed  road,  as  solid  as  the  living  rock  from  which 
it  has  been  carved  at  an  expense  in  some  instances  of  $40,000  a  mile,  and  as  smooth 
as  a  city  boulevard,  is  surely  a  novel  and  delightful  experience.     The  scenery  on 


ON    THE    UNCOMPAHGRE. 


this  journey  between  Silverton  and  Ouray  is  of  the  greatest  magnificence.  This  is 
especially  true  of  this  portion  of  the  route  traversed  by  stage.  The  Silverton  and 
Ouray  toll  road  has  long  been  noted  for  its  attractions  in  the  way  of  scenery,  the 
triangular  mass  of  Mount  Abraham's  towers  to  the  left,  while  the  road  winds 
around  the  curves  of  the  hills  with  the  sinuosity  of  a  mountain  brook. 

Bear  Creek  Falls.  The  scene  from  the  bridge  over  Bear  Creek  is  one 
which  once  beheld  can  never  be  forgotten.  Directly  under  the  bridge  plunges  a 
cataract  to  the  depth  of  two  hundred  and  fifty-three  feet,  forming  a  most  note- 
worthy and  impressive  scene.  The  toll  road  passes  through  one  of  the  most  famous 
mining  regions  in  the  world,  and  the  fame  of  Red  Mountain  is  well  deserved  both 
from  the  number  and  richness  of  its  mines.  Before  Ouray  is  reached  the  road 
passes  through  Uncompahgre  Canon.  Here  the  roadbed  has  been  blasted  from 
the  solid  rock  wall  of  the  gorge,  and  a  scene  similar  in  nature  and  rivaling  in 
grandeur  that  of  Animas  Canon  is  beheld. 


OURAY. 

The  Gem  of  the 

Rockies. 

Health    and     Pleasure 

Resort. 

Elevation,    7,721    feet. 

Distance  from  Denver, 

389  miles. 

Population,  2,5O0. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  13? 

This  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  situated 
towns  to  be  found  anywhere.  Its  scenery  is  idylic. 
The  village  is  cradled  in  a  lovely  valley,  surT 
rounded  by  rugged  mountains.  The  situation  of 
the  town  is  thus  briefly  described  in  the  Crest  of  the 
Continent:  "  The  valley  in  which  the  town  is  built 
is  pear-shaped,  its  greatest  width  being  not  more 
than  half  a  mile,  while  its  length  is  about  twice  that 
down  to  the  mouth  of  the  canon.  Southward  —  that 
is  toward  the  heart  of  the  main  range  —  stand  the 
two  great  peaks,  Hardin  and  Hayden.  Between  is 
the  deep  gorge  down  which  the  Uncompahgre  finds 
its  way  ;  but  this  is  hidden  from  view  by  a  ridge  which  walls  in  the  town  and  cuts 
off  all  the  further  view  from  it  in  that  direction,  save  where  the  triangular  top  of 
Mount  Abrahams  peers  over.  Westward  are  grouped  a  series  of  broken  ledges, 
surmounted  by  greater  and  more  rugged  heights.  Down  between  these  and  the 
western  foot  of  Mount  Hayden  struggles  Canon  Creek  to  join  the  Uncompahgre  ; 
while  Oak  Creek  leaps  down  a  line  of  cataracts  from  a  notch  in  the  terraced  heights 
through  which  the  quadrangular  head  of  White  House  Mountain  becomes  grandly 
discernable  —  the  eastermost  buttress  of  the  wintry  Sierra  San  Miguel.  At  the 
lower  side  of  the  basin,  where  the  path  of  the  river  is  beset  with  close  canon-walls, 
the  cliffs  rise  vertical  from  the  level  of  the  village,  and  bear  their  forest  growth 
many  hundreds  of  feet  above.  These  mighty  walls,  two  thousand  feet  high  in  some 
places,  are  of  metamorphic  rock,  and  their  even  stratification  simulates  courses  of 
well-ordered  masonry.  Stained  by  iron  and  probably  also  by  manganese,  they  are 
a  deep  red-maroon  ;  this  color  does  not  lie  uniformly,  however,  but  is  stronger  in 
some  layers  than  in  others,  so  that  the  whole  face  of  the  cliff  is  banded  horizontally 
in  pale  rust  color,  or  dull  crimson,  or  deep  and  opaque  maroon.  The  western  cliff 
is  bare,  but  on  the  more  frequent  ledges  of  the  eastern  wall  scattered  spruces  grow, 
and  add  to  its  attractiveness.  Yet,  as  though  Nature  meant  to  teach  that  a  bit  of 
motion, —  a  suggestion  of  glee  was  needed  to  relieve  the  sombreness  of  utter 
immobility  and  grandeur,  however  shapely,  she  has  led  to  the  sunlight,  by  a  crevice 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  eastern  wall  that  we  cannor  see,  a  brisk  torrent  draining 
the  snowfields  of  some  distant  plateau.  This  little  stream,  thus  beguiled  by  the 
fair  channel  that  led  it  through  the  spruce  woods  above,  has  no  time  to  think  of  its 
fate,  but  it  is  flung  out  over  the  sheer  precipice  eighty  feet  into  the  valley  below. 
We  see  the  white  ghost  of  its  descending,  and  always  to  our  ears  is  murmured  the 
voice  of  the  Naiads,  who  are  taking  the  breathless  plunge.  Yet  by  what  means  the 
stream  reaches  that  point  from  above  cannot  be  seen,  and  the  picture  is  that  of  a 
strong  jet  of  water  bursting  from  an  orifice  through  the  crimson  wall,  and  falling 
into  rainbow-arched  mist  and  a  tangle  of  grateful  foliage  that  hides  its  further 
flowing." 

The  town  has  one  hotel  of  great  magnificence  worthy  of  a  city  of  ten  times  its 
population,  besides  a  good  supply  of  other  hostelries  of  a  less  splendid  character. 
Ouray  is  a  health  resort  worthy  of  patronage  by  invalids,  possessing  hot  springs  of 
a  fine  medicinal  character  and  abounding  in  attractions  to  divert  the  mind.  Plenty 
of  sport  can  be  had  about  here.  The  mountain  sheep  and  wapiti  have  not  yet  been 
killed  off ;  deer  and  trout  are  abundant.  The  rides  up  the  roads  and  trails  to 
neighboring  mines  and  mining  camps,  through  valley  and  canon,  and  over  moun- 
tain and  mesa,  are  not  soon  exhausted,  and  the  lover  of  botany  or  geology,  or  the 
student  of  mineralogy  and  mining,  could  scarcely  find  a  finer  field  anywhere  than 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Ouray. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


139 


Oliray  to  Montrose.  Leaving  Ouray,  a  ride  of  thirty-five  miles,  via  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  brings  the  traveler  to  Montrose,  on  the  main  line  of 
the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  between  Denver  and  Salt  Lake.  Two  miles  from 
Ouray  the  country  begins  to  become  open  and  soon  one  is  passing  through  farms 
and  an  excellent  agricultural  valley.  En  route  one  passes  the  confluence  of  the 
Uncompahgre  and  Dallas,  and  the  mesas  and  terraces  on  either  side  abound  with 
almost  every  species  of  game,  deer,  elk,  mountain  sheep,  bear,  and  smaller  animals. 

Ridgway. — Eleven  miles  from  Ouray.  The  junction  point  with  the 
Rio  Grande   Southern   Railroad.      A   description   of    this    charming    little   city 


CHIEFS    OF    THE    UNCOMPAHGRE    UTES. 


will  be  found  elsewhere  in  this  volume.  Further  on,  twenty-two  miles  from 
Ouray,  you  come  to  the  old  Los  Fiiios  Agency,  where  Chiefs  Douglas,  Jack, 
Colorow,  Piah,  and  other  Indians,  who  participated  in  the  massacre  of 
Thornburg  and  the  Meekers,  tested  the  nerve  of  General  Hatch  and  his  associates 
in  1879.  '  The  store-house,  council  chamber,  etc.,  are  still  standing.  The  military 
camp*  is  passed  twenty-six  miles  from  Ouray,  and  five  miles  further  on,  one  reaches 
the  residence  of  Chippeta,  the  widow  of  Ouray,  the  dead  Ute  chief,  who,  during 
his  reign,  held  the  Utes  in  check,  and  was  always  the  friend  of  the  white  man.  At 
Montrose  the  tourist  can  take  the  main  line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
and  resume  the  trans-continental  journey. 


LEADVILLE  TO   DILLON. 


From  Leadville  a  branch  line  of 
the  widely  radiating  Denver  and  Rio 
Grande  system  extends  over  Fremont 
Pass  to  Dillon.  The  general  direction 
taken  by  the  line  is  to  the  northeast, 
with  a  deflection  from  Fri?co  to  Dillon 
to  the  northwest.  The  Great  Middle  Park 
of  Colorado  lies  to  the  north  of  Dillon, 
just  over  the  range  of  the  Williams  River 
Mountains.  The  country  between  Lead- 
ville and  Dillon  is  extremely  mountainous, 
and  mines  of  great  value  have  been  dis- 
covered in  this  region.  The  railroad 
crosses  the  Park  Range  at  Fremont  Pass, 
and  in  the  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  pass 
the  Arkansas  River  has  its  sources.  The 
Blue  River  heads  on  the  Pacific  slope  near 
the  pass,  and  the  south'  branch  is  crossed 
,„.      ,  ty  the  railroad  near   the  small  station  of 

Wheeler,  the  north  branch  is  encountered  at  Frisco  in  the  vicinity  of  which  the 
two  jo.n  and  form  the  main  stream,  which  empties  into  the  Grand  in  the  south- 
west  corner  of  Middle  Park. 

The  ride   from   Leadville  to  Fremont  Pass  is  one  of   great    interest  to  lovers 

of  the  grand  and  beautiful  in   nature.      The  mountain  ranges  which  surround  the 

Carbonate  Camp  "  are  in  plain  view,  and  every  turn   in  the  road  reveals  new 

attractions.     This  extension  of  the  line  is  known  as  the  Blue  River  branch      It  is 

141 


142  OVER     THE    RANGE 

thirty-six  miles  in  length,  with  its  terminus  at  Dillon.  The  intervening  stations 
are  Birds  Eye,  Alicante,  Fremont  Pass,  Robinson,  Kokomo,  Wheeler,  Frisco  and 
Dillon. 

Source  of  the  Arkansas.  The  line  from  Leadville  follows  up  the 
Arkansas  River,  and  here  we  have  an  object  lesson  in  the  growth  of  rivers.  We 
see  from  what  small  beginnings  great  things  in  the  way  of  water  courses  grow. 
We  see  how  a  little  brook  which  one  could  dam  with  a  couple  of  shovels  of  mud 
may  push  its  way  along,  "  undermining  what  it  cannot  overthrow  ;  sliding  around 
the  obstacle  that  deemed  itself  impassable,  losing  itself  in  willowy  bogs,  tumbling 
headlong  over  the  error  of  a  precipice  or  getting  heedlessly  entrapped  in  a  confined 
canon  ;  escaping  down  a  gorge  with  indescribable  turmoil,  and  always  growing 
bigger,  bigger,  broader  and  stronger,  deeper  and  more  dignified  ;  till  it  can  leave 
the  mountains  and  strike  boldly  across  a  thousand  miles  of  untracked  plain  to 
"  fling  its  proud  heart  into  the  sea.'  " 

Almost  in  the  very  springs  of  the  river,  where  an  amphitheatre  of  gray 
quartzite  peaks  stand  like  stiffened  silver-gray  curtains  between  the  Atlantic  and 
the  Pacific,  we  curl  round  a  perfect  shepherd's  crook  of  a  curve,  and  then  climb  its 
straight  staff  to  the  summit  of  Fremont  Pass. 

Through  a  charming  valley  the  approach  to 
Fremont  Pass  is  made.  A  famous  pass,  with  the 
historic  name  of  him  who  has  been  called  "The 
Pathfinder,"  although  a  later  day  has  witnessed 
greater  achievements  than  his  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  A  journey  here  deserves  the  title  of  a 
pilgrimage,  for  from  the  summit  of  this  pass  the 
traveler  can  discern  the  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross. 
The  scene  is  one  replete  with  vivid  interest.  Fainter 
and  fainter  grow  the  lines  of  objects  in  the  valley, 
until  at  last  the  clouds  envelope  the  train,  and  at  the  next  moment  the  observer 
looks  down  upon  a  rolling  mass  of  vapor  through  which  the  light  strikes  in  many 
colored  beams.  The  sublimity  of  the  scene  forbids  all  thoughts  other  than  those 
of  reverence  and  rapture. 

"  The  snow-crowned  monarchs  of  an  upper  world, 
Rugged  and  steep  and  bare,  the  mountains  rise; 
Their  very  feet  are  planted  in  the  skies; 
Adown  their  sides  are  avalanches  hurled. 

"  Time  was  when  few  and  daring  were  the  men 
Who  mignt  behold  this  pass,  that  Fremont  gained 
Through  toil  and  danger,  and  its  heights  attained, 
Perils  beset  the  long  leagues  down  again. 

"  Now  all  may  come  who  seek,  afar  from  crowds, 
The  grand  in  nature,  for  we  now  engage 
The  potent  eemi  of  this  iron  age. 
Fire,  steam  and  steel,  and  rise  above  the  clouds  ! 

The  railroad  crosses  the  pass  at  an  elevation  of  about  two  miles  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  ranks  among  the  highest  railroad  passes  in  the  world. 

Mount  Of  the  Holy  CrOSS.  From  the  crest  of  Fremont  Pass  the 
traveler  looks  eagerly  about  and  soon  catches  sight  of  the  sacred  symbol  which 
gives  name  to  the  famous  mount.  The  snow-white  emblem  of  Christian  faith 
gleams  with  bright  splendor  against  the  azure  sky.  The  wayfarer  at  last  realizes 
that  he  has  reached  the  height  "  around  whose  summit  splendid  visions  rise. 
This  is  one  of  the  best  points  of  view  from  which  to  behold  this  wonderful 
mountain,  a  more  extended   description  of  which  will  be  found  in   the   chapter 


FREMONT  PASS. 

One     of    the     Highest 

Railroad  Passes 

in  the  World. 

Elevation,  11,329  feet. 


144 


OVER     THE    RANGE 


entitled,     From     Leadville 
to  Aspen. 

Downward  to 
Dillon.  On  the  Pacific 
Slope  are  the  mines  which 
made  this  region  famous. 
The  Robinson  Consoli- 
dated, the  White  Quail, 
the  Wheel  of  Fortune,  etc 

Moving  on  down  the 
pleasant  valley,  whose  level 
bottom  is  carbonate  tinted, 
not  with  ore  dust,  but  with 
an  almost  continuous  thicket 
of  stunted  red  willows,  we 
pass  the  Chalk  Mountain 
mines,  the  Carbonate  Hill 
district,  Clinton  Gulch, 
where  gold  ore  is  alleged  to 
be  wonh  more  attention 
than  it  is  receiving,  and  so 
come  to  Elk  Mountain  and 
Kokomo.  The  ore  found 
here  is  a  hard  carbonate, 
running  about  twenty-five 
ounces  in  silver  and  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  in  lead,  be- 
sides a  third  of  an  ounce 
in  gold,  which  is  carefully 
separated  at  the  smelter. 
Much  of  it  is  so  admirably 
constituted  that  it  "  smelts 
itself," — that  is,  it  requires 
little  or  no  addition  of  lead, 
iron  and  other  accessories 
to  its  proper  fluxion.  Con- 
tinuing the  journey  we  be- 
hold alluring  pictures  of 
mountains  and  canons,  of 
belts  of  timber  and  pleasant 
uplands,  of  green  meadows 

and  sparkling  streams  beloved  of  gamey  trout  and  the  haunts  of  deer  and  elk.  This 
country  is  still  a  paradise  for  the  sportsman,  and  the  rod  and  gun  find  ample 
range  for  their  employment  here. 

Dillon  is  the  terminus  of  the  Blue  River  branch,  and  is  situated  in  a  mining 
country.  Distance  from  Breckenridge,  10  milts  ;  Frisco,  3  miles;  Montezuma,  12 
miles;  Decatur,  15  miles;  Rock  Creek,  10  miles.  The  station  is  the  nearest 
point  for  the  lower  Blue  River  Valley,  into  which  good  roads  extend.  Saddle 
horses  and  wagons  can  be  hired  to  go  down  this  river  into  the  hunting  and  fishing 
grounds  of  Middle  Park.  (Population,  300.  Distance  from  Denver,  313  miles, 
Elevation,  8,86i  feet.) 


CASCADES    OF    THE    BLUE. 


OGDEN   TO  SAN   FRANCISCO. 


OGDEN, 

Railroad  and  3Ianufac- 
turing   Town. 

Population,  33,000. 

Elevation,  4,286  feet. 

Distance  from  Denver, 
754  miles, 

Distance  from  San 
Francisco.    883     miles. 


At  Ogden  the  tourist  steps  from  the  train  of 
the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  into  that  of  the 
Southern  Pacific,  the  transfer  being  made  with 
very  little  trouble,  and  in  a  few  minutes  time,  at  the 
fine  new  Union  Depot.  A  glance  around  will  show 
one  that  Ogden  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  west 
slope  of  the  Wasatch  Mountains.  It  is  well  laid  out 
and  substantially  built ;  the  streets  are  wide,  reg- 
ular, well  paved,  lined  with  shade  and  ornamental 
trees,  and  lighted  with  electricity.  By  a  good  system 
of  water  works  the  mountain  streams  and  springs  are 
made  to  supply  an  abundance  of  pure  water.  Many 
of  the  private  residences  and  grounds  are  very  hand- 
some, and  the  business  blocks  solid  and  elegantly  constructed  Of  the  climate  too 
much  cannot  be  said.  Utah  claims  the  finest  climate  in  the  United  States.  Colorado 
makes  the  same  assertion;  so  does  California.  There  is  no  doubt  that  each  of  these 
great  commonwealths  has  good  grounds  for  its  claims.  Colorado  and  Utah  have 
similar  characteristics,  while  California  is  quite  different;  circumstances  are 
said  to  alter  cases,  and  this  saying  holds  true  in  climate  as  well  as  in  other 
matters.  While  the  climate  of  Colorado  or  Utah  might  be  a  specific  for  one 
class  of  diseases,  that  of  California  might  be  much .  more  beneficial  for 
another  class.  The  advice  of  an  intelligent  and  unprejudiced  physician 
should  be  taken  before  an  invalid  decides  on  his  choice  of  location.  In  Utah 
the  winters  are  short  and  mild,  and  the  spring  and  fall  months  give  almost  perfect 
weather;  the  summers  are  warm  but  not  oppressively  hot,  and  the  nights  are  always 
cool  and  never  moist.  Pulmonary  troubles  will  surely  find  relief,  and  generally 
a  cure.  Ten  miles  north  of  Ogden  are  Hot  Springs,  whose  sulphur  water 
possesses  peculiar  medicinal  properties,  and  are  pronounced  superior  to  the 
Arkansas  Springs.  Hundreds  of  invalids  visit  these  springs  annually,  and  they  are 
steadily  growing  in  popularity.  The  educational  and  religious  advantages  of 
Ogden  are  on  a  par  with  those  of  eastern  cities  of  the  same  size.  Here  is  the 
centre  of  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  and  mining  districts  of  Utah.  Ogden 
has  better  railroad  facilities  than  any  other  town  in  the  territory.  It  is  affection- 
ately called  by  its  inhabitants  the  "Junction  City  of  the  West."  It  is  the  terminus 
of  five  leading  trunk  lines,  namely:  The  Denver  &  Rio  Grande,  the  Union  Pacific, 
the  Southern  Pacific,  the  Utah  &  Northern,  and  the  Utah  Central  Railroads. 
The  outlook  for  manufacturing  is  excellent,  the  Weber  River  furnishing  almost 
unlimited  water  power.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  great  quantities  in  the  near  vicinity. 
while  the  wool  clip  of  the  territory,  and  those  of  Idaho,  Wyoming,  Montana  and 
Nevada  is  enormous,  and  could  be  advantageously  manufactured  into  cloth  at  this 
point. 

Geological  Features.     Looking  from  the  car  window  after  passing 

145 


146  OVER    THE    RANGE 

Ogden,  the  traveler  can  see  many  things  in  this  region  indicating  a  thrilling  geologi- 
cal history.  That  striation,  extending  along  the  side  of  the  foot  hills  to  the 
right,  marks  the  water  line  of  a  vast,  pre-historic  inland  sea,  that  shrunk  ages  ago 
to  the  comparatively  small  proportions  of  Salt  Lake.  In  all  probability  the  whole 
area  between  the  Wasatch  Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevadas  was  once  an  im- 
mense body  of  water,  in  which  the  mountain  ranges  rose  as  islands.  The  lakes 
of  the  present  day  are  all  that  remain  of  this  vast  pre-historic  sea.  The  deposits 
which  cover  the  low  lands  are  chiefly  calcareous,  and  are  often  filled  with  fresh 
water  and  land  shells,  indicating  a  comparatively  modern  origin.  The  formation 
of  the  islands  and  the  shore  ranges  of  Salt  Lake  is  metamorphic,  the  strata  are 
distinctly  marked  and  highly  inclined,  but  attaining  no  great  elevation,  being 
generally  overlaid  with  sandstone  and  limestone  of  the  carboniferous  age,  but  partly 
altered,  the  former  constituting  the  loftier  eminence,  in  places  it  is  rich  in  fossils, 
while  in  others  it  loses  the  granular  character,  and  becomes  sub  crystalline  or 
threaded  by  veins  of  calcareous  spar,  the  sandstones,  from  metamorphic  action, 
taking  the  character  of  quartz.  As  the  train  advances,  evidences  of  volcanic  action 
become  numerous. 

BrighlXlll.  A  half  hour's  ride  from  Ogden  brings  the  traveler  to  Brigham, 
a  busy  little  town  surrounded  by  an  agricultural  settlement,  but  possessing  nothing 
of  special  interest  to  the  tourist.  (Population,  1, 800.  Distance  from  Ogden,  17 
miles.     Elevation,  4,229  feet.) 

Corilllie.  Between  Brigham  and  Corinne  the  Bear  River  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge  twelve  hundred  feet  in  length.  The  town  of  Corinne  has  a  good  agricultural 
country  around  it,  and  wherever  irrigation  has  been  secured  large  crops  have 
responded  to  industrious  cultivation.  The  raising  of  stock,  is  also  a  tributary 
industry,  and  cattle  do  well  on  the  surrounding  excellent  ranges,  which  are  found 
in  the  greatest  perfection  north  of  the  town.  (Population,  500.  Distance  from 
Ogden,  24  miles.     Elevation.  4,231  feet.) 

A  small  station  surrounded  by  country  covered 
with  sage  brush,  and  only  worthy  of  mention  for  its 
history.  At  this  point,  on  Monday,  May  10,  1869, 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  building  west  and  the 
Central  Pacific  Railroad,  building  east,  met.  The 
junction  was  made,  and  the  news  flashed  all  over 
the  world  that  the  first  great  trans-continental  rail- 
road of  America  had  become  an  accomplished  fact. 
The  importance  of  that  event  cannot  be  overesti- 
mated, and  to  enumerate  the  results  emanating  from  that  meeting  would  be 
the  task  of  a  historian.  An  epitome  of  what  that  meeting  meant  can  be  best  ex- 
pressed by  quoting  that  clever  and  quaintly  humorous  poem,  written  by  Bret 
Harte,  commemorative  of  the  occasion,  under  the  title  of 

WHAT    THE    ENGINES    SAID 

What  was  it  the  Engines  said, 
Pilots  touching — head  to  head, 
Facing  on  the  single  track. 
Half  a  world  behind  each  back  ? 
This  is  what  the  Engines  said 
Unreported  and  unread  : 

With  a  prefatory  screech, 
In  a  florid  Western  speech, 
Said  the  Engine  from  the  West 


PROMONTORY. 

A  Point    of 
Historical  Interest. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN   GATE.  147 

"  I  am  from  Sierra's  crest ; 
And  if  altitude's  a  test, 
Why,  I  reckon,  it's  confessed. 
That  I've  done  my  level  best." 

Said  the  Engine  from  the  East : 
;  They  who  work  best  talk  the  least. 
S'pose  you  whistle  down  your  brakes  ; 
What  you've  done  is  no  great  shakes,— = 
Pretty  fair, — but  let  our  meeting 
Be  a  different  kind  of  greeting. 
Let  these  folks  with  champagne  stuffing'. 
Not  their  Engines,  do  the puffi «£"." 

•*  Listen  !     Where  Atlantic  beats 
Shores  of  snow  and  summer  heats  ; 
Where  the  Indian  autumn  skies 
Paint  the  woods  with  wampum  dyes, 
I  have  chased  the  flying  sun. 
Seeing  all  he  looked  upon. 
Blessing  all  that  he  has  blest, 
Nursing  in  my  iion  breast 
All  his  vivifying  heat, 
All  his  clouds  about  my  crest  ; 
And  before  my  flying  feet 
Every  shadow  must  retreat." 

Said  the  Western  Engine,  "  Phew  ! ' 
And  a  long,  low  whistle  blew. 
"Come  novv,  really,  that's  the  oddes. 
Talk  for  one  so  very  modest, — 
You  brag  of  your  East !  you  do  ? 
Why,  I  bring  the  East  to  you  t 
All  the  Orient,  all  Cathay, 
Find  through  me  the  shortest  way 
And  the  sun  you  follow  here 
Rises  in  my  hemisphere. 
Really, — if  one  must  be  rude — 
Length,  my  friend,  ain't  longitude 

Said  the  Union,  "  Don't  reflect,  ot 
I'll  run  over  some  Director." 
Said  the  Central,  "  I'm  Pacific, 
But,  when  riled,  I'm  quite  terrific. 
Yet,  to-day  we  shall  not  quarrel, 
Just  to  show  these  folks  this  moral, 
How  two  Engines — in  their  vision — 
Once  have  met  without  collision." 

That  is  what  the  Engines  said, 
Unreported  and  unread  ; 
Spoken  slightly  through  the  nose, 
With  a  whistle  at  the  close. 

Monument.  Before  Monument  is  reached  the  side-track  stations  of  Rozel 
and  Lake  are  passed.  At  Rozel,  the  great  Salt  Lake  is  close  to  the  track  on  the 
left,  and  at  Monument,  a  point  of  the  same  name  extends  into  the  lake.  Here 
we  take  our  last  view  of  the  interesting  and  mysterious  sea  which  has  been  our 
almost  constant  companion  since  leaving  Salt  Lake  City.  Before  us  stretches 
a  vast  unfertile  country,  and  here,  if  anywhere,  can  be  found  that  makeshift  of  the 
easy  going  and  old  fashioned  geography  —  the    "Great  American  Desert." 

Keltoii,     This  little  place  is  situated  on  the  eastern  edge  of  the  desert, 


m&i 


lEfBlb 


>d 


»•  - 


*s*A 


OVER   THE    RANGE. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  149 

and  here  tne  water-trains  of  the  railroad  company  obtain  their  supply  of  the 
aqueous  fluid  and  deliver  to  the  stations  to  the  westward  on  this  division.  Look- 
ing to  the  north  the  traveler  will  see  the  Red  Dome  mountains,  while  to  the 
southeast  rises  Pilot  Knob,  a  prominent  feature  in  the  landscape.  (Population 
small.     Distance  from  Ogden,  92  miles.     Elevation,  4,222  feet.) 

Towns  in  the  Desert.  From  Kelton  to  Toano  the  road  traverses 
the  northern  edge  of  the  desert,  amidst  a  scene  of  general  desolation.  In  a  general 
way  this  unfertile  region  may  be  described  as  sixty  square  miles  of  alkaline  sands, 
evidently  a  portion  of  the  great  ocean  bed  already  referred  to  Like  the  arid 
country,  between  Fruita  and  Green  River,  in  Utah,  through  which  we  came, 
on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  which  only  needs  irrigation  to  become 
fertile,  this  region  is  the  counterpart.  The  stations  on  the  desert  are  of  no  special 
interest,  but  as  a  matter  of  record  may  be  named  as  follows  :  —  Ombey,  Matlin, 
Terrace,  Bovine,  Lucin,  Gartney,  Tecoma,  Montello,  Ullin,  and  Loray.  The 
train  has  been  ascending  the  grade,  and  from  Kelton,  with  an  altitude  of  4,222 
feet,  to  Toano.  with  an  altitude  of  5.975  feet,  we  have  made  a  net  gain  of 
1,753  feet,  The  mountains  to  the  south  are  the  Toano  Range,  where  mines  have 
been  discovered,  and  which  gave  a  phenomenal  output  of  ore  some  years 
ago,  but  concerning  which,  since  that  time,  little  has  been  heard.  The  great 
peak  almost  directly  south,  which  has  been  our  landmark  for  the  last  fifty  miles  is 
Pilot  Knob,  rising  to  a  height  of  twenty-five  hundred  feet  directly  from  the 
plains.  This  Knob  was  the  beacon  of  the  early  emigrant  by  which  he  steered  his 
ship  of  the  desert,  knowing  that  near  it  lay  Humboldt  Wells,  where  plenty  of 
water  and  grass  could  be  obtained  for  his  almost  famished  stock. 

Toano.  A  little  station  marking  the  western  verge  of  the  desert.  (Popula- 
tion small.     Distance  from  Ogden,  1S3  miles.     Elevation,  5,975  feet.) 

From  Toano  the  ascent  of  Cedar  Pass  is  begun. 
For  22  miles  the  grade  is  upward,  though  not  re- 
markably steep,  the  road  rising  only  191  feet.  The 
Cedar  Pass  Range  is  comparatively  low  and  ex- 
tends from  north  to  south,  the  south  fork  of  the 
Humboldt  River  flows  through  these  hills.  The 
Ruby  Valley  lies  to  the  east,  and  is  sixty  miles  long 
by  ten  wide.  The  valley  is  occupied  by  farmers 
and  is  very  fertile.  There  are  a  number  of  small 
fakes  in  the  valley,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  Ruby  and  Franklin. 

Moors.  This  station  occupies  the  summit  of  Cedar  Pass.  Snow  sheds  and 
fences,  which  can  be  seen  here  and  for  some  distance  beyond,  testify  to  the  fact 
that  the  elevation  is  such  as  to  cause  protection  against  the  danger  of  snow  block- 
ades. (Population  small.  Distance  from  Ogden,  210  miles.  Elevation,  6,167  feet.) 
Wells.  The  grade  has  been  a  descending  one  since  we  left  Moors,  and 
the  descent  will  be  continued  for  nearly  three  hundred  miles.  The  railroad  com- 
pany has  adopted  the  monosyllabic  title  of  Wells  for  this  station,  but  for  nearly 
half  a  century  this  place  has  borne  the  popular  title  of  "  Humboldt  Wells."  Here 
the  railroad  repair  shop  and  round  house  are  located,  and  the  town  consists  of  these 
and  twenty-five  or  thirty  other  buildings,  including  a  hotel.  In  this  vicinity,  the 
emigrants  in  the  old  days  of  overland  travel  to  California,  were  wont  to  make  their 
camp  and  recuperate  their  stock  after  the  trying  ordeal  of  the  desert.  The 
wells  from  which  the  place  takes  its  name  are  very  curious,  consisting  of  circular 
openings  in  the  ground  varying  in  size,  being  from  four  to  eight  feet  in  diameter, 
and  filled  to  the  brink  with  water.      No  bubbles  arise  on  the  surface  of  the  water, 


CEDAR  PASS, 

The  Divide  between  the 
Desert  and  Hum- 
boldt Valley. 

Highest    Elevation, 
6,166  feet. 


150  OVER    THE    RANGE 

which  trickles  off  through  the  grass  and  sinks  into  the  porous  soil.  It  is  said  that 
the  wells  have  been  frequently  sounded  and  no  bottom  found.  The  water  is  some- 
what brackish.  There  are  about  twenty  of  these  pools  in  the  little  valley,  and  their 
life  giving  influence  can  be  seen  in  the  abundant  growth  of  grass.  Because  of 
these  peculiar  pools  Wells  is  a  station  of  considerable  interest  to  the  tourist.  (Pop- 
ulation, 300.     Distance  from  Ogden,  219  miles.     Elevation,  5,628  feet.) 

Valley  of  the  Humboldt.  After  the  journey  across  the  desert,  the 
Valley  of  the  Humboldt  presents  a  most  delightful  appearance  to  the  eyes  of  the 
traveler,  who  is  considerably  wearied  by  the  constant  view  of  sand  and  sagebrush. 
The  valley  is  eighty  miles  in  length  and  ten  in  breadth  and  is  occupied  by  agricul- 
turists and  stock  raisers.  The  river  which  makes  this  section  of  the  country  fertile 
rises  thirty  miles  northwest  of  Wells,  and,  flowing  southwest  nearly  three  hundred 
miles-  empties  into  Humboldt  Lake,  which  has  no  outlet.  The  railroad  follows  the 
river  closely  for  two  hundred  and  seventy  miles  and  leaves  it  at  Brown's  Station, 
where  one  has  a  fine  view  of  the  lake.  The  railroad  follows  for  the  greater  part 
of  the  way  the  north  side  of  the  river,  while  the  old  emigrant  trail,  parts  of  which 
can  vet  be  seen,  pursues  its  course  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream. 

Tulasco,  Bishops,  Deeth,  Halleck,  Peko,  Osino,  are  all  small  side  track 
stations,  useful  to  the  residents  of  the  valley  and  to  the  railroad,  but  of  no  especial 
interest  to  the  tourist.  After  passing  Peko,  the  railroad  crosses  the  north  fork  of 
the  Humboldt  River  and  at  Osino  a  canon  of  the  same  name  is  entered,  and  we 
\e<-ve  behind  us  the  pleasant  valley  of  the  Humboldt. 

Elko.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  towns  on  the  line  since  leaving  Ogden. 
li  1*  the  county  seat  of  Elko  County  and  is  well  supplied  with  churches,  schools, 
business  blocks  and  comfortable  residences.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  the  state  uni- 
versity. Elko  is  an  important  shipping  point  for  stock  and  for  the  output  of  the 
Eureka,  Tuscarora,  White  Pine  and  Cape  mines,  all  being  within  a  radius  of  from 
twenty-five  to  one  hundred  miles.  Beyond  Elko  some  ten  miles  the  South  Fork  of 
the  Humboldt  joins  the  river  on  the  south,  watering  along  its  course  an  excellent 
grazing  country.  (Population,  752.  Distance  from  Ogden,  275  miles.  Eleva- 
tion, 5,065  feet.) 

Carlin.  Between  Elko  and  Carlin  is  the  small  station  of  Moleen.  Some 
hay  meadows  intervene  and  the  road  passes  through  Five  Mile  Canon,  where  the 
tourist  will  behold  some  rugged  scenery.  Gold  and  silver  mines  within  a  radius  of 
twenty  miles  are  tributary  to  the  town.  (Population,  394.  Distance  from  Ogden, 
29S  miles.     Elevation,  4,897  feet.) 

Twelve  Mile  Canon.  The  road  pene- 
trates the  range  of  mountains  (which  trends  from 
north  to  south)  by  way  of  this  canon.  The  walls 
rise  on  either  side  in  rugged  grandeur,  attaining  in 
places  a  height  of  a  thousand  feet.  From  the  pe- 
culiar stratification  of  the  rocks,  resembling  that  of 
the  famous  rockwalls  of  the  Hudson,  this  canon  has 
been  called  the  Palisades  of  the  Humboldt.  Red 
Cliff  is  a  striking  promontory  in  the  midst  of  the 
canon,  stained  with  rubescent  colors  and  rising 
above  the  track  for  more  than  rive  hundred  feet. 

Palisade.  This  little  town  nestles  in  the  heart  of  Twelve  Mile  Canon, 
and  is  the  junction  point  of  the  Eureka  and  Palisade  Railroad  with  the  Southern 
Pacific.    The  former  road  is  a  narrow  gauge  and  was  built  mainlv  to  convey  ore  an<f 


THE  PALISADES  OF 
THE  HUMBOLDT. 

Height  of  Walls,  1,000 
feet. 

Objects  of  Interest, 

Red    Cliff  and    Devil's 

Peak. 


TO     THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  151 

bullion  to  the  great  trunk  line.  Eureka,  its  terminus,  is  a  mining  town  of  about 
six  thousand  population,  engaged  principally  in  mining.  Here  are  stamp  mills 
and  smelters  handling  fifty  tons  of  ore  daily.  Palisade  is  the  site  of  the  machine 
shops  of  the  Eureka  and  Palisade  Railroad  and  is  also  a  great  shipping  point. 
Beyond  Palisade  Station  is  Devil's  Peak,  an  isolated  projection  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river,  rising  from  the  water  to  the  height  of  three  hundred  feet. 
(Population,  300.      Distance  from  Ogden,  308  miles.      Elevation,  4,840  feet.) 

Cluro.  A  small  station  which  stands  at  the  lower  entrance  of  Twelve  Mile 
Canon,  and  is  worthy  of  mention  for  this  fact. 

Gravelly  Ford.  This  place  is  entitled  to  mention  because  of  its 
historic  interest.  It  was  here  that  the  old  California  trail  crossed  the  river.  The 
"  Eord  "  was  often  the  scene  of  Indian  raids,  and  the  hardy  pioneers  and  the 
aborigines  more  than  once  tried  conclusions  here,  and  the  blood  of  both  the  white 
and  the  red  man  often  stained  the  flow  of  the  Humboldt. 

Beowawe.  At  this  point  the  Humboldt  forces  its  way  through  the  Red 
Range  of  mountains  forming  a  natural  "  gate,"  which  is  the  significance  of  the 
name  Beowawe  in  the  Indian  tongue.  Beyond  the  station  the  road  passes  through 
Dottom  lands  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  shrubbery,  the  willow  predominating. 
To  the  south  eight  or  ten  miles  lies  Hot  Springs  Valley,  taking  its  title  from  the 
hot  springs  which  are  found  there  in  great  number.  These  springs  are  inter- 
mittent in  their  flow,  resembling  in  this  characteristic,  though  in  a  lesser  degree, 
che  geysers  of  the  Yellowstone.  Beowawe  is  a  station  of  no  very  great  commer 
dal  importance,  but  possesses  interest  because  of  the  peculiar  features  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  (Population  small.  Distance  from  Ogden,  326  miles.  Eleva- 
tion, 4,695   feet.) 

Tlie  Valley  Region.  To  the  north  and  soiAb  of  tne  Humboldt  and 
nearly  opposite  Argenta,  are  several  valleys;  among  the  most  '-uportant  is 
Paradise  Valley  —  to  the  north — sixty  miles  long  by  ten  miles  wide,  and  settled 
by  prosperous  ranchmen.  Eden  Valley,  also  to  the  north,  is  twenty  miles  long  by 
five  miles  broad,  and  thickly  settled.  Reese  River  Valley,  is  to  the  south,  of  variable 
width,  not  wider  than  ten  miles,  and  about  seventy-five  miles  in  length.  The  Reese 
River  possesses  the  peculiarity  of  sinking  into  the  sand  before  it  reaches  the  Hum. 
boldt,  and  only  in  times  of  great  abundance  of  water  does  it  flow  beyond  the  point 
of  its  subsidence. 

Battle  Mountain.  Important  as  a  shipping  station  for  the  wining 
regions  in  the  hills  to  the  north  and  south  ;  also  the  junction  of  the  Nevada  Cen- 
tral Railroad  with  the  Southern  Pacific.  This  is  a  narrow  gauge,  and  its  southern 
terminus  is  Austin,  ninety-three  miles  distant  from  Battle  Mountain,  with 
a  population  of  three  thousand:  The  Nevada  Central  penetrates  a  rich  mining 
district,  and  not  less  than  twenty  camps  contribute  to  its  prosperity.  Batfifc 
Mountain  takes  its  name  from  the  range  of  mountains  to  the  north  of  the  Hum- 
boldt, between  the  Reese  River  and  Owyhee  ranges.  (Population,  522.  Distance 
from  Ogden,  359  miles.     Elevation,  4,511  feet.) 

Groleomla.  A  station  for  the  shipment  of  ores  supplied  by  adjacent 
gold  and  silver  mines.  The  Golconda  mine  is  the  nearest,  being  three  miles  to  the 
south.  (Population,  400.  Distance  from  Ogden,  402  miles.  Elevation,  4,392 
feet.) 

Wiimemucca.  County  seat  of  Humboldt  County.  The  town  derives 
its  name  from  a  noted  Indian  Chief  who  made  his  home  in  this  region.  (Popu- 
lation, 2,000.     Distance  from  Ogden,  419  miles.     Elevation,  4,333  feet.) 


AT  THE  GOLDEN   GATE. 


HUMBOLDT. 

An  Oasis  in  the  Desert. 

The  Effect  of  Irriga- 
tion. 

Distance    from    Ogden 
459  miles. 

Elevation,    4,236  feet. 


TO     THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  153 

The  Nevada  Desert.  We  have  now  fairly  entered  upon  the  Nevada 
Desert,  which  we  shall  travel  over  to  the  westward  until  Wadsworth  is  reached,  a 
di-tance  of  138  miles.  This  stretch  of  country  is  the  most  desolate  and  the  most 
uninteresting  of  any  of  the  deserts  crossed  on  the  transcontinental  journey.  It 
is  characterized  by  an  almost  total  absence  of  vegetation  of  any  kind,  and  by  a 
remarkable  distribution  of  scoria,  the  remains  of  extinct  volcanic  action.  These 
deposits  of  black  lava  are  scattered  over  a  grayish  expanse  of  sand,  and  are 
of  a  general  cubical  form,  varying  in  size  from  that  of  a  pea  to  that  of  a  good-sized 
house. 

As  the  train  stops  at  Humboldt,  the  passengers 
are  surprised  to  see  a  beautiful  little  park  filled  with 
thrifty  trees  and  carpeted  with  luxuriant  green- 
sward. This  oasis  in  the  desert  is  the  result  of 
irrigation,  and  the  fountain  of  cold,  clear  water  that 
throws  its  rainbow  tinted  spray  into  the  air,  tells  the 
story  as  to  how  this  magical  transformation  has  been 
brought  about.  The  charm  of  contrast  is  complete, 
and  taking  all  things  into  consideration,  I  know  of 
no  place  to  be  met  with  on  the  trip  across  the 
continent  that  the  tourist  will  regard  with  more 
pleasure  than  the  unexpected  vision  of  this  emerald 
of  the  desert.  Star  Peak,  the  highest  mountain  in  the  Humboldt  Range,  crowned 
with  perpetual  snow,  can  be  seen  only  seven  miles  distant  to  the  northeast,  and 
it  is  a  pleasure  to  learn  that  the  desert  gives  way  to  the  Lanson  Meadows  five 
miles  to  the  northwest,  from  which  large  crops  of  hay  are  cut. 

Rye  Patch.  A  small  station,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that 
wild  rye  grows  here  in  great  quantities.  There  is  in  operation  here  a  ten-stamp 
mill  which  is  supplied  with  ore  from  the  Eldorado  and  Rye  Patch  mining  districts 
lying  to  the  east  within  a  radius  of  fifteen  miles.  (Population,  65.  Distance  from 
Ogden,  470  miles.     Elevation,  4,257  feet.) 

Oreana.  A  small  station  of  no  especial  interest.  A  smelter  is  located 
here,  and  the  widened  expanse  of  the  river  at  this  point  is  owing  to  the  fact  that 
a  dam  has  been  thrown  across  it  to  secure  water  power.  The  railroad  crosses  the 
Humboldt  five  miles  west  of  Oreana.  (Population,  55.  Distance  from  Ogden,  480 
miles.     Elevation,  4,181  feet.) 

Bl'OWllS.  At  Browns  station  the  tourist  has  a  good  view  of  Humboldt 
Lake,  as  the  road  approaches  it  closely.  The  town  itself  is  of  minor  importance. 
(Population,  25.     Distance  from  Ogden,  508  miles.     Elevation,  3,929  feet.) 

Mirage.  Side  track  station,  deriving  its  name  from  the  phenomenon 
peculiar  to  the  desert,  which  has  allured  many  an  early  emigrant  to  destruction 
through  its  deceptive  influences.  The  green  trees,  the  lake  of  bright  water  in  which 
can  be  seen  the  reflection  of  surrounding  objects,  which  the  mirage  presents  to 
view,  are  only  optical  illusions,  and  those  who  left  the  beaten  track  to  seek  the 
refreshment  apparently  at  hand,  frequently  paid  the  penalty  of  their  rashness  with 
their  lives.  (Population,  small.  Distance  from  Ogden,  520  miles.  Elevation, 
4,247  feet.) 


154  OVER    THE    RANGE 


THE  LAKE    REGION. 

Facts  Concerning 

Interesting 
Bodies  of  Water. 


A  glance  at  the  map  of  Nevada  will  reveal  the 
fact  that  we  have  now  reached  what  may  very 
appropriately  be  called  the  lake  region.  These 
lakes  have  not  the  clear,  sweet  water  which  one 
generally  associates  with  the  term ;  but  on  the 
contrary  are  brackish,  and  hold  great  quantities 
of  alkali  and  chloride  of  sodium  in  solution.  The 
most  important  of  these  lakes  are: 
Humboldt  Lake.  This  sheet  of  water  takes  its  name  from  the  river 
which  flows  into,  or  rather  through  it;  the  fact  being  that  the  waters  of  the  river 
are  collected  in  this  basin,  and  are  then  conducted  further  west  into  Carson  Sink— 
or  Lake.  All  the  drainage  carried  in  the  channel  of  the  Humboldt  River,  in  its 
course  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  is  concentrated  here  ;  the  surplus,  as  has 
been  said,  passing  south  into  Carson  Lake  which  has  no  outlet.  Humboldt  Lake  is 
thirty-five  miles  long  by  ten  miles  wide. 

Carson  Lake.  This  lake,  which  receives  the  waters  of  the  Humboldt 
River,  through  Carson  Sink,  is  due  south  from  Humboldt  Lake,  and  has  no  outlet. 
The  map  shows  two  distinct  bodies  of  water,  namely :  Carson  Sink  and  Carson 
Lake;  but  during  the  prevalence  of  rain  both  are  united,  and  cover  a  large  extent 
of  country.      Carson  Lake  proper,  is  twenty  miles  long  by  ten  wide. 

Mud  Lake  is  situated  north  of  Granite  Point,  some  fifty  miles.  The 
famous  "  Black  Rock  "  stands  at  the  head  of  Mud  Lake.  This  promontory  is 
eighteen  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  a  strong  feature  in  the  landscape.  The  name 
of  this  lake  is  especially  descriptive  of  its  peculiar  characteristics,  especially  during 
the  summer  when  the  water  is  low  and  muddy.  It  has  no  outlet,  and  at  its  season 
of  greatest  enlargement  is  fifty  miles  long  by  twenty  broad. 

WinneillUCCa  Lake  is  of  small  extent,  being  about  fifteen  miles  long  by 
ten  wide ;  it  has  connection  with  Pyramid  Lake,  which  lies  a  short  distance  to  the 
eastward. 

Pyramid  Lake  is  made  the  receptacle  of  the  waters  of  the  Truckee  River, 
the  outlet  of  Lake  Tahoe,  and  is  about  twice  the  size  of  Winnemucca  Lake,  being 
thirty  miles  long  by  twenty  broad. 

Walker's  Lake  has  no  outlet.  It  is  fifty  miles  long  by  twenty  wide, 
and  lies  about  a  hundred  miles  to  the  south  of  Mirage. 

Hot  Springs.  A  small  station,  taking  its  name  from  the  springs  which 
send  up  the  steam  from  their  heated  waters  on  the  right  of  the  track.  (Population, 
42.     Distance  from  Ogden,  535  miles.     Elevation,  4,072  feet.) 

Desert.  This  is  the  last  station  in  the  Nevada  Desert,  marking  its  western 
boundary.  From  here  the  grade  is  an  ascending  one,  and  when  Wadsworth  is 
reached,  nine  miles  beyond,  the  desert  will  have  been  left  entirely.  (Population 
small.     Distance  from  Ogden,  546  miles.     Elevation,  4,018  feet.) 

Wadsworth.  The  tourist  finds  a  pleasant  greeting  at  Wadsworth,  for  on 
arriving  at  the  station  he  sees  a  beautiful  little  park,  neatly  enclosed  and  orna- 
mented with  a  carefully  kept  lawn  and  handsome  shade  trees.  The  park  is  not  so 
extensive  as  that  at  Humboldt,  but  is  none  the  less  a  delight  after  the  long  journey 
across  the  desert.  The  town  is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Truckee  River, 
and  is  prosperous  and  well  built.  Here  are  located  the  railroad  shops  for  this 
division  of  the  railroad,  and  considerable  freight  business  is  transacted  with  the 
mining  camps  situated  to  the  south.  The  Truckee  River  has  its  source  in  lakes 
Tahoe  and  Donner,  and  is  a  pure  and  sparkling  stream.  Six  miles  south  are  the 
Pine  Grove  Copper  Mines,  while  ten  miles  south   are  the  Desert  Gold   Mines 


RENO. 

Junctional  Point. 

Distance    from  Ogden, 
589  miles. 

Population,  4,500 

Altitude,  4,49*  feet. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  155 

tributary  to  Wadsworth.     (Population,   700.     Distance    from   Ogden,   555   miles. 
Eievation,  4,085  feet). 

In  addition  to  being  the  county-seat  of  Washoe 
County,  Reno  is  a  thriving  business  centre.  It 
possesses  all  the  modern  improvements,  including 
electric  lights.  Its  business  blocks  are  well  built 
and  its  public  buildings  creditable  to  the  city.  The 
town  was  named  after  General  Reno,  who  lost  his 
life  in  the  battle  of  South  Mountain.  This  is  the 
junctional  point  for  the  Nevada  &  California  Rail- 
road, a  narrow  gauge,  the  present  terminus  for 
which  is  Moran.  Here  also  the  tourist  can  take 
the  Virginia  &  Truckee  Railroad  for  Carson  City, 
Virginia  City  and  points  to  the  north  and  south.  Condensing  che  statement  of 
connections,  they  are  as  follows  :  Virginia  &  Truckee  Railroad  for  Carson,  Virginia 
and  Mound  House,  connecting  there  with  Carson  &  Colorado  Railroad  for  Haw- 
thorne (stages  for  Aurora  and  Bodie),  and  for  Belleville,  Candelaria  and  Keeler; 
Nevada  &  California  Railroad  for  Moran  (stages  for  Millford,  Susanville,  Quincy, 
Fort  Bidwell,  Cal.,etc.  Stages  can  also  be  taken  to  Eagleville,  Alturas,  Cedarville 
and  Lake  View  or  Davis  Creek.  Reno  possesses  a  lively  interest  to  the  traveler, 
as  it  is  the  junction  point  to  the  world  famed  Comstock  Mines. 

Climbing  the  Sierra  Nevada  Range,  After  leaving  Reno  the 
grades  grow  steeper,  and  the  traveler  prepares  himself  for  the  grand  and  striking 
scenery  which  he  will  have  the  pleasure  of  beholding  until  the  passage  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  has  been  made.  For  fifty  miles  the  ascent  continues  until 
Summit  Station  is  reached,  the  highest  point  attained  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Rail- 
road on  its  transcontinental  line  from  Ogden  to  San  Francisco.  From  Reno  the 
road  follows  up  the  course  of  the  Truckee  River,  and  soon  enters  Truckee  Canon. 
The  course  of  the  river  is  tortuous  and  the  road  quickly  changes  sides,  giving 
varied  and  interesting  views  of  towering  rocks,  foaming  waters  and  pine  clad 
mountains.     In  quick  succession  the  following  small  stations  are  passed  : 

Verdi,  Essex,  Mystic,  Floriston,  Boca,  Prosser  Creek,  Proctor  and  Winsted. 
The  country  between  Verdi  and  Proctor  seems  pretty  well  given  up  to  the 
production  of  lumber,  great  quantities  of  ties,  logs  and  boards  being  piled  beside 
the  track.  The  river  is  used  as  a  facile  means  of  transporting  these  products  of 
the  forest.     Ice  store  houses  also  abound  here. 

Truckee.  Roofed  like  an  alpine  village  to  shed  the  deep,  moist  snows  of 
winfr,  Truckee  stands  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  The 
town  is  well  built  and  extends  mainly  along  the  north  bank  of  the  Truckee  River. 
Lumber  is  the  leading  industry,  and  where  the  town  now  stands,  once  stood  a  dense 
forest.  It  is  estimated  that  the  Truckee  Basin  will  supply  at  least  4,000,000,000 
feet  of  lumber,  or  enough  to  keep  the  saw  mills  going  at  their  present  rate  for  a  hun- 
dred years.  The  round  house  for  this  division  of  the  railroad  is  located  here. 
Truckee  is  the  shipping  point  for  Donner  Lake  and  the  towns  of  the  Sierra 
Valley.  Stages  can  be  taken  for  Lake  Tahoe  (fourteen  miles)  Donner  Lake 
(two  miles),  and  Webber  Lake  ;  also  for  Sierraville,  Sierra  City  and  Plumas 
Eureka  Mine.  (Population,  1,500.  Distance  from  Ogden,  623  miles.  Elevation, 
5,819  feet.) 


156 


OVER    THE    RANGE, 


"  There  is  a  grandeur  and  enchantment  at  all  times  in  the  scenery  which 
environs  the  lakes  of  this  region  and  never-ending  means  of  pleasure  and  exhil- 
aration on  their  waters;  and  the  panorama  of  mountain  and  valley,  meadow-Ian^ 
and  woodland,  sunshine  and  cloud,  as  viewed  from  Tahoe  City  is  spacious,  inspir- 
iting and  impressive.  This  view  is  an  unspeakably  fine  one;  within  the  magnificent 
frame  of  the  Tahoe  range  is  Lake  Tahoe,  sometimes  tranquil,  sometimes  turbulent 
but  always  lovely.  The  summer  sunsets  on  Lake  Tahoe  are  remarkable  for  their 
great  beauty  and  wealth  of  coloring  and  are  grander  than  those  mirrored  on  Lakes 

Como  and  Maggiore.  No  painter 
would  ever  dare  to  put  upon  canvas 
the  variegated  colors  of  Tahoe's  wa- 
ters in  a  summer  sunset.  It  would 
appear  such  an  exaggeration  that  he 
would  lose  caste  among  those  who 
demand  that  the  artist's  pencil  shall 
be  true  to  nature.  None  but  those 
who  have  witnessed  the  scene  would 
be  persuaded  of  its  reality.  Such 
beauty  could  not  be  were  it  not  fot 
the  highly  reflective  qualities  of  the 
pure  translucent  waters  which  serve 
as  a  polished    mirror    of     French 


plate  glass."  Such  is  the  glowing 
language  of  a  much  traveled  author, 
whose  words,  though  eloquent,  fail 
of  depicting  the  entrancing  loveliness 
of  the  scenes  which  one  can  here  be- 
hold. But  it  is  no  reflection  upon 
the  descriptive  powers  of  any  write: 
to  say  that  he  has  fallen  short  of  the 
yeality.  Surely  if  these  scenes  are 
beyond  the  powers  of  the  artist,  no 
discredit  can  follow  when  the  writer's 
pen  fails  to  attain  to  the  full  measure 
of  their  grandeur  and  beauty. 


TAHOE 
SCENERY. 


LAKE    TAHOE, 

The    "  Gem    of   the 
Mountains. " 

Distance  froni  Truckee, 
14  miles. 

Length,  of  Lake, 

22  miles- 
Breadth  of  Lake 
10  miles. 

Depth,    1,700    feet. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  157 


Lake  Tahoe,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  moun- 
tain lakes  in  the  world,  lies  in  the  heart  of  the 
Sierras,  6,216  feet  above  the  sea,  while  mountain 
peaks  surround  it,  rising  to  an  additional  height  ot 
from  two  to  four  thousand  feet.  It  is  22  miles  in 
length,  io  miles  in  breadth  and  from  ioo  to  1,700 
feet  in  depth.  Its  waters  are  famous  the  world  over 
for  their  crystal  purity,  and  their  transparency  is  so 
absolute  that  the  fish,  which  abound  in  great 
numbers,  can  be  seen  distinctly  as  they  swim 
beneath  you,  at  a  distance  of  eighty  feet.  On  its 
lovely  shores  are  situated  some  of  the  most  delight- 
ful summer  resorts.  The  mid-summer  air  is  cool 
and  invigorating,  the  hunting  and  fishing  excellent 


and  the  landscape  picturesque  and  a  never-ending  delight  to  the  eye.  The  ride  by 
stage  from  Truckee  to  the  lake,  is  a  most  charming  experience,  and  is  thus 
described  by  Mr.  N.  H.  Chittenden,  a  traveler  of  some  distinction  :  "  It  was  a 
glorious  morning,  bright  and  cool,  a  rain  having  fallen  the  previous  evening, 
tempering  the  dry  mountain  air,  fragrant  with  the  sweet  odor  of  the  pines,  to  a 
delicious,  exhilarating  freshness,  and  also  effectually  laying  the  dust.  It  is  a 
magnificent  drive,  following  up  the  dashing  Truckee,  a  fitting  outlet  for  the 
world's  crowning  gem  of  mountain  lakes.  From  thirty  to  fifty  feet  in  width, 
clear  as  crystal  pure  and  cold,  it  courses  swiftly  down  the  mountains,  frequently 
a  foaming  rapid,  but  interrupted  in  its  headlong  descent  by  several  dams.  The 
valley  is  from  three-quarters  to  a  mile  across,  the  mountains  generally  not  precipitous 
or  very  high,  though  presenting  several  bold,  towering  granite  cliffs  and  peaks  from 
five  hundred  to  one  thousand  and  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  The  most  prom- 
inent of  these,  from  their  resemblance  to  the  human  face,  are  known  as  the  '  Old 
Woman'  and  'Old  Man'  of  the  mountains,  and  the  '  Duke  of  Wellington.'  Thick 
forests  of  red,  yellow  and  sugar  pine,  fir  and  cedar,  extend  the  whole  way, 
except  where  cleared  by  the  lumbermen.  The  great  saw  mill  companies  are 
annually  cutting  millions  of  feet  of  the  choicest  trees,  having  already  advanced 
about  eight  miles  up  the  river  and  back  three  or  four  miles  therefrom.  The  lum- 
ber flumes  extend  from  the  great  mills  at  Truckee  to  the  farthest  camps,  and  the 
sides  of  the  mountains  are  grooved  with  log  chutes.  Down  the  former  are  run  vast 
quantities  of  wood  and  timber,  while  down  the  latter  immense  logs  are  shot,  with 
the  velocity  of  thunderbolts,  into  the  river.  At  the  Eight-Mile  Crossing,  a  five-foot 
monster  plunged  in  as  we  passed,  striking  a  forerunner  fairly  endwise,  with 
terrific  force,  and  the  noise  of  distant  thunder.  Horse  railways  and  long  ox  teams 
ire  also  employed  in  hauling  out  the  logs  from  over  the  summit  of  the  mountains." 
The  tour  of  the  lake  is  made  by  an  excursion  steamer  which  is  taken  at  Tahoe 
City.  The  surroundings  of  the  lake  are  picturesque  in  the  extreme.  Beginning  at 
the  right,  the  coronet  of  mountains,  which  surrounds  the  lake,  may  be  named  as 
follows:  the  Rubicon  Peaks,  9, 28 7. feet  above  the  sea;  Mount  Tallac,  9,715  feet 
in  height ;  Mount  Ralston,  9,140  feet;  Pyramid  Peak,  10,052  feet;  Job's  Peak, 
10,637  feet;  Geneva  Peak,  9.135,  and  the  summits  of  the  Tahoe  Range.  Down  the 
steep,  forest-covered  sides  of  these  mountains  swiftly  descend  numerous  beautiful 
streams,  Ward's  Creek,  Blackwood's,  McKinney's,  Phipp's,  Meek's  Bay,  Lonely 
Gulch,  Cascade  Falls,  Cascade  Lake,  Taylor,  Little  Truckee  River,  Big  Truckee 
River,  Jim  Small's  Creek,  Sevory  Cove  Creek,  Glenbrook,  Secret  Harbor,  Big, 
Griffin's,  Cornelian  Bay  and  Gordon's  Creek  being  the  most  important. 


I    3: 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  1.59 

The  shores  of  Lake  Tahoe  are  indented  with  beautiful  bays,  Crystal,  Corne- 
lian, Meeks  and  Emerald,  the  latter  being  the  largest  and  most  frequented.  It  is 
about  eighteen  miles  from  Tahoe  City,  three  miles  long,  and  about  half  a  mile  in 
width.  Ben  Holladay  built  a  summer  residence  here,  which  his  family  occupied 
until  it  was  burned  in  1879.  , 

Capt.  Dick,  an  eccentric  old  English  sailor,  chose  this  wild  mountain  retreat 
for  his  home,  built  a  cabin,  and  chiseled  out  a  tomb  in  the  solid  rock,  on  the  lonely 
rock-bound  island  near  the  entrance.  Falling  overboard,  while  intoxicated,  Lake 
Tahoe,  which  it  is  said,  never  gives  up  its  dead,  became  his  last  resting-place,  in- 
stead of  the  grave  he  had  prepared. 

The  shores  of  the  lake  are  dotted  with  summer  residences  and  pleasure  resort 
villages.  Among  the  latter  may  be  mentioned  Tahoe  City,  Glenbrook,  Tallac, 
Rowlands  and  McKinneys.  Glenbrook  is  a  very  pretty  village  and  is  the  business 
centre  for  Lake  Tahoe.  The  thousand  and  one  attractions  of  this  lovely  lake  can 
obtain  but  little  justice  in  60  brief  a  description  as  can  be  given  here;  indeed,  the 
most  elaborate  description  would  fall  far  short  of  the  reality,  and  only  he  who  has 
had  the  extreme  good  fortune  to  visit  the  spot  can  form  an  adequate  idea  of  its  charms. 

Dormer  Lake.  Made  memorable  by  the 
terrible  fate  of  the  Donner  party,  thirty-four  of 
whom  died  of  starvation  on  its  shores  in  the  year 
1846,  and  taking  its  name  from  the  leader  of  this 
unfortunate  company,  Donner  Lake  commands 
especial  attention  for  its  historical  associations.  Its 
beauty  gives  it  a  leading  position  among  the  lakes 
of  the  Sierras  and  has  been  made  familiar  through 
the  well  known  paintings,  by  Bierstadt.  Only  three 
miles  from  Truckee,  it  is  easy  of  access.  It  is  about 
three  miles  long,  one  and  a  half  miles  wide,  and 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep.  Its  shores  are 
gravelly  and  the  lake  is  surrounded  by  great  forests  of  pine,  fir  and  tamarack. 

Webber  Lake,  a  perfect  gem,  lies  in  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  about  twenty- 
six  miles  from  Truckee,  at  an  altitude  of  6,925  feet  above  the  sea  level.  It  is 
circular  in  shape  ;  its  waters  crystal  white,  and  with  a  depth  of  eighty-four  feet. 
It  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  fishing  grounds  in  California,  the  trout  being 
large  and  numerous,  gamey  and  delicious.  About  three-quarters  of  a  mile  away 
from  the  lake  are  the  falls,  having  a  descent  of  105  feet. 

Independence  Lake,  sixteen  miles  from  Truckee,  and  ten  miles  from 
Webber,  is  another  one  of  those  beautiful  gems.  It  is  two  and  one-half  miles  long 
and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.     Its  waters  are  alive  with  trout. 

Climbing'  the  Sierra  Nevada  Range.  The  ascent  of  the  Sierras 
begins  at  Truckee.  In  order  to  protect  travelers  from  delay  in  inclement  weather, 
the  railroad  company  have  constructed  an  almost  uninterrupted  line  of  snow 
sheds  for  forty  miles.  These  sheds  interrupt  the  view,  but  they  serve  an 
eminently  practical  purpose  and  are  necessary  for  winter  travel.  Through  the 
loopholes  cut  in  the  sides  of  the  sheds  the  tourist  catches  tantalizing  glimpses 
of  magnificent  scenery.  Donner  Lake  can  be  seen  below  us,  gleaming  like  a  dia- 
mond in  its  granite  setting,  while  a  panorama  of  pine-clad  hills  and  splintered 
mountain  pinnacles  is  spread  before  us.  Plunging  onward  through  the  snow  sheds, 
the  two  great  engines  drag  the  train  upward,  while  below  can  be  seen  the  winding 
roadway  we  are  ascending.  Rumbling  through  a  tunnel  the  train  comes  to  a  halt 
on  the  highest  railroad  point  in  the  Sierras. 


DONNER,  WEBBER, 

AND 

INDEPENDENCE 
LAKES. 

Waters  of  Crystal 
Whiteness. 


160  OVER    THE    RANGE 


SUMMIT. 

The  Highest    Railroad 

Point  in  the  Sierra 

Nevadas. 

Elevation,  7,017  feet. 

Distance   from  Ogden, 
638  miles. 


Appropriately  named,  this  station  is  the  sum- 
mit of  our  railroad  ascent.  For  many  years  it 
held  the  pre-eminence  as  the  highest  railroad  point 
in  North  America,  and  it  still  deserves  renown 
as  the  first  to  lay  claim  to  so  lofty  an  estate*  This 
is  the  "divide"  from  which  flow  various  streams 
through  devious  courses  to  empty  at  last  at  widely 
divergent  points  into  the  great  Sacramento.  Among 
these  streams  are  the  Bear,  the  American  and  the 
South  Yuba  Rivers.  The  scenery  around  Summit  is 
of  the  grandest  description.  The  mountains  tower  above  us  to  an  altitude  of  ten 
thousand  feet.  Lakes  lie  below  us  and  waterfalls  glimmer  down  the  sides  of  dis- 
tant precipices.  Here  the  sportsman  can  find  ample  scope  for  enjoyment.  Bear 
and  deer  and  a  vast  variety  of  game  haunt  the  wooded  fastnesses  and  the  streams 
abound  in  trout.  The  east-bound  tourist  who  wishes  to  visit  Lakes  Tahoe  and 
Donner  can  take  the  stage  at  Summit,  and,  after  enjoying  the  delights  of  the 
mountain  drive  and  an  unobstructed  view  of  the  scenery,  together  with  a  satisfying 
visit  to  the  lakes,  can  again  resume  his  journey  by  taking  the  cars  at  Truckee,  thus 
avoiding  the  up  grade  return  to  Summit. 

Cascade.  Six  miles  beyond  Summit  we  pass  Cascade,  crossing  a  branch  of 
the  Yuba  River.  To  the  westward  lies  Summit  Valley,  a  charming  spot  for  a  sum- 
mer resting  place.  It  is  well  watered  and  abounds  in  luxuriant  meadows,  which 
are  utilized  by  stock  and  dairy  men,  who  have  found  here  an  ideal  spot  for  their 
purposes.  Cascade  is  a  growing  shipping  point  for  cattle  and  their  products. 
(Population,  28.     Distance  from  Ogden,  644  miles.     Elevation,  6,538  feet.) 

Soda  Spring's.  Many  large  soda  springs  give  their  name  to  this  side 
track.  Their  waters  are  pleasant  to  the  taste  and  medicinal  in  character.  One  of 
the  springs  has  been  improved  and  its  waters  are  bottled  for  shipment.  There  are 
also  hot  springs  in  the  near  vicinity.  (Population  small.  Distance  from  Ogden, 
647  miles.     Elevation,  6,749  feet.) 

Emigrant  Gap.     Here  we  catch  the  last  sight  of  the  old  emigrant  wagon 

road,  which  we  have  seen  from  time  to  time  for  the  last  two  hundred  and  fifty 

miles.     (Population,  120.  Distance  from  Ogden,  659  miles.     Elevation,  5,221  feet.) 

Blue  Canon,  Shady  Run,  Towles,  and  Alta,  are  small  stations  which  we  pass 

in  rapid  succession. 

Dutch  Flat.  Population,  700.  (Distance  from  Ogden,  675  miles.  Eleva- 
tion, 3,595  feet.) 

Historic  Ground.  To  the  "men  of  '49"  the  names  of  Alta  and 
Dutch  Flat  call  up  many  memories  of  stirring  times.  The  stages  still  run  from 
Dutch  Flat  to  "You  Bet  "and  "  Little  York,"  where  mines  are  still  worked; 
but  the  palmy  days  made  historic  by  the  achievements  of  the  "John  Oakhursts," 
"  Sandy  McGees,"  and  "  Hank  Monks"  have  passed  away.  A  glimpse  can  be 
caught  of  a  scenic  attraction  of  paramount  interest  as  the  train  passes  Shady  Run. 
This  is  the  famous  American  Cation,  with  walls  two  thousand  feet  high,  and  of 
such  wonderful  perpendicularity  that  the  American  River,  which  flows  between 
them,  has  never  been  ascended  for  a  distance  of  two  miles— the  extent  of  the  canon. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  161 


CAPE    HORN. 


A  Scenic  Wonder. 


There  are  few  mountain  passes  more  famous 
than  that  known  to  the  world  as  "Cape  Horn." 
The  approach  to  it  is  picturesque.  The  north 
fork  of  the  American  River  is  seen  raging  and 
foaming  in  its  rocky  bed,  fifteen  hundred  feet 
below  and  parallel  with  the  track.  A  little  further 
on  we  see  the  north  fork  of  the  North  River  leap- 
ing in  snowy  cascades  down  the  mountain  side. 
The  train  rolls  on  and  soon  is  clinging  to  the  side 
of  a  mountain  wall,  which  climbs  to  the  clouds  above  it  and  drops  to  the  waters 
beneath  ;  a  hand  thrust  from  the  window  of  the  car  could  drop  a  stone  straight 
as  the  plummet  falls,  into  the  chasm,  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  below.  We 
are  rounding  Cape  Horn  !  The  road  having  been  carved  from  the  solid  rock, 
the  workmen,  when  building  the  same  were  suspended  from  the  cliff  above  by 
means  of  ropes  until  they  had  blasted  sufficient  to  gain  a  foothold.  A  beautiful 
valley  lies  beneath  us  to  the  left,  and  across  this  vale  on  the  opposite  side  can  be 
seen  the  line  of  road  on  which  we  shall  soon  appear.  The  descent  now  begins,  and 
Rice's  Ravine  is  crossed,  the  trestle  bridge  being  S7S  feet  in  length  and  113  feet  in 
height.  The  narrow  gauge  railroad,  which  we  see  beneath  us,  is  the  line  from 
Colfax  to  Nevada  City.  From  the  trestle  we  pass  to  an  embankment,  and  from 
the  embankment  to  the  solid  roadway  on  the  side  of  the  bluff.  We  have  followed 
the  curving  road  until  now  we  are  opposite  the  tremendous  precipice,  from  whose 
fearful  height  we  have  but  just  descended. 

Colfax.  Named  after  the  statesman,  Schuyler  Colfax,  a  steadfast  friend  to 
the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  during  the  early  days  of  its  existence.  This  town  is 
thriving  and  prosperous.  Fruit  raising  has  taken  the  place  of  the  original  industry 
of  mining,  and  the  financial  results  appear  to  be  eminently  satisfactory.  There  is 
a  large  and  handsome  depot  erected  at  this  place,  it  being  the  distributing  point 
for  Grass  Valley,  Nevada  City,  and  a  large  area  of  agricultural  and  mining 
country.  The  trains  of  the  Nevada  County  Railroad  (narrow  gauge)  run  to  and 
from  this  depot.  (Population,  700.  Distance  from  Ogden,  6S9  miles.  Elevation, 
2,422  feet  ) 

Auburn.  The  approach  to  Auburn  is  made  through  a  rugged  country,  a 
tunnel  seven  hundred  feet  in  length  being  passed  just  before  reaching  Clipper  Gap 
—  beyond  this  can  be  seen  the  famous  gold  fields,  now  abandoned-  The  town  of 
Auburn  is  embowered  with  fruit  trees,  is  well-built  and  prosperous.  Many  of  the 
residents  of  San  Francisco  and  Sacramento  spend  a  part  of  their  summers  at  this 
mountain  town.  Fruit  raising  has  usurped  the  place  of  mining  among  these  foot 
hills  of  the  western  slope  —  vineyards,  orchards  and  vegetable  gardens,  are  now 
seen  on  all  sides.  This  condition  of  things  exists  all  along  the  slope,  and  for  a 
distance  of  twenty  miles  we  pass  through  California's  semi-tropical  fruit  belt.  The 
quarrying  of  stone  and  stock  raising  are  also  important  industries.  (Population, 
1,700.     Distance  from  Ogden,  707  miles.     Elevation,  1,360  feet.) 

Newcastle.  Is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  farming  region,  and  is  an 
important  shipping  point  for  all  California  fruits.  Here  are  also  a  number  of 
extensive  canning  and  fruit  drying  establishments,  with  unlimited  capacity.  The 
early  citrous  fruits  are  grown  and  shipped  from  this  point.  (Population,  350.  Ele- 
vation, 956.      Distance  from  Ogden,  712  miles.) 

Rocklin.  This  little  town  lies  at  the  base  of  the  foothills,  and  is  famed  for 
the  excellent  quality  of  the  granite  found  in  its  quarries.  The  round  house  and 
machine  shops  of  the  railroad  company  located  here  are  built  of  this  material. 


163 


TO    THE      GOLDEN    GATE.  163 

The  State  House  at  Sacramento  is  also  erected  of  Rocklin  granite.     (Population, 
1,100.  Distance  from  Ogden,  721  miles.     Elevation,  249  feet.) 

Junction.  This  station  is  the  junction  point  for  the  east  side  of  the  great 
Sacramento  Valley  and  Portland,  Oregon  ;  it  is  here  the  branch  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad  intercepts  the  main  Transcontinental  Line.  (Population,  350. 
Distance  from  Ogden,  725  miles.     Elevation,  163  feet.) 

TllC  Plains  Region.  A  glance  from  the  car  window,  or  a  reference  to 
the  elevation  of  Junction  Station,  given  in  the  paragraph  above,  will  show  the 
tourist  that  the  region  of  mountains  and  foothills  lies  behind  him,  and  that  the 
fertile  plains  of  California  have  been  reached.  Broad  expanses  of  gently  rolling 
country  greet  the  eye,  dotted  here  and  there  with  the  round-topped,  dark-foliaged 
live  oaks,  which  form  strikingly  characteristic  features  in  the  landscape.  Here 
and  beyond  in  the  Sacramento  Valley  are  the  great  wheat  fields  of  the  State,  famous 
in  the  past  for  their  enormous  yield  and  the  magnificent  scale  upon  which  the 
raising  of  this  cereal  is  carried  on.  Now,  however,  fruit  raising  is  gradually 
usurping  this  territory,  and  orchards  and  vineyards  are  frequently  seen. 

American  River  Bridge.  This  bridge  spans  the  current  of  the 
American  River,  and  Sacramento  is  only  three  miles  distant.  (Distance  from 
Ogden,  740  miles.     Elevation,  49  feet.) 

As  is  the  almost  universal  rule  in  the  case 
of  large  cities  one  gets  a  very  unsatisfactory  view 
of  the  town  from  the  railroad  station.  Several 
days  can  be  pleasantly  and  profitably  spent  by  the 
tourist  in  Sacramento.  It  is  handsomely  built,  and 
its  shaded  streets  and  flower  ornamented  yards  pre- 
sent an  exceedingly  attractive  appearance.  It  has 
a  complete  system  of  electric  street  railways. 
Being  the  capital  of  California,  the  county  seat  of 
Sacramento  County,  and  the  second  commercial  city 


SACRAMENTO, 

California's  Capital. 

Population,  32,000. 

Elevation,  30  feet. 

Distance   from    Ogden, 
743  miles. 


in  the  State,  it  has  a  most  prosperous  present  and  promising  future.  More  trains 
arrive  and  depart  each  day  than  in  any  other  town  or  city  in  the  State. 
Sacramento,  being  the  geographical  centre,  it  is  the  great  distributing  point 
for  California.  Three-fourths  of  all  the  fruits  shipped  from  this  State  each 
year  are  shipped  from  this  point.  It  is  at  this  place  all  the  principal  buyers 
and  shippers  locate  for  the  purchase  of  fruits  and  vegetables.  The  Southern 
Pacific  Company's  shops  (which  employ  from  2,000  to  3,000  men  constantly, 
covering  an  area  of  twenty-five  acres  of  land),  the  largest  cannery  and 
packing  houses  in  the  State,  a  woolen  mill,  foundry,  machine  shops,  etc., 
are  located  in  Sacramento.  For  a  manufacturing  town,  the  location  of 
Sacramento  cannot  be  excelled.  It  is  ninety  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  numerous  daily  trains,  and  by  river  steamers.  Many  of  its 
wholesale  houses  rival  those  at  San  Francisco  in  the  amount  of  business  transacted. 
It  has  fine  wide  streets  lined  with  shade  trees,  many  substantial  business  blocks, 
elegant  residences,  and  good  hotels.  The  State  Capitol,  State  Printing  Office, 
State  Agricultural  Exposition  Building  (the  largest  west  of  the  Missouri  river),  a 
Free  Library,  the  largest  Art  Gallery  (with  one  or  two  exceptions)  in  the  United 
States,  an  Old  Ladies'  Home  (where  old  ladies  have  the  same  care  and  attention, 
if  not  better,  than  they  would  have  in  their  own  homes),  are  located  in  Sacra- 
mento, the  two  latter  were  donated  to  the  city  by  that  most  estimable  and  philan- 
thropic of  ladies,  Mrs.  E.  B.  Crocker,  In  fact,  Sacramento  is  the  great  metropolis 
of  the  Sacramento  valley. 


164  OVER    THE    RANGE 

The  first  railroad  in  California,  extending  from  Sacramento  into  El  Dorado 
County,  was  formally  opened  on  February  22d,  1856.  Work  on  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  was  inaugurated  at  Sacramento,  January  8th,  1863,  and  the  last  spike  was 
driven  May  10th,  1869.  Sacramento  is  on  the  line  of  the  California  &  Oregon, 
Western  Pacific,  Central  Pacific,  California  Pacific,  and  Sacramento  &  Placerville 
Railroads.  All  these  roads  are  of  the  Southern  Pacific  System.  The  Company's 
principal  hospital,  is  also  located  in  this  city.  A  line  of  steamboats  runs  to 
San  Francisco  on  the  Sacramento  River  and  the  bay.  and  another  as  far  up  the 
same  stream  as  Red  Bluff.  The  Sacramento  River  is  spanned  opposite  the 
city  by  a  railroad  and  wagon  bridge,  connecting  it  with  the  town  of  Washington, 
Yolo  County  ;  and  the  American  River  is  bridged  on  the  line  of  Twelfth 
street,  and  also  by  a  railroad  bridge  a  short  distance  above.  All  the  bridges 
in  the  county  and  all  roads  are  free.  The  Capital  of  California  was  permanently 
located  at  Sacramento,  February  25th,  1854,  and  in  1869  the  present  Capitol 
Building  was  completed,  at  a  cost  of  about  $3,000,000.  The  building  is  the 
finest  in  the  state.  In  the  Capital  Park  are  also  the  exposition  pavilion  of  the 
State  Agricultural  Society,  and  the  State  Printing  Office,  in  which  are  printed,  in 
addition  to  the  usual  work  for  the  State,  the  text-books  for  use  in  the  public 
schools.  The  State  Agricultural  Society  has  also  an  extensive  park  for  the 
exhibition  of  stock,  and  one  of  the  finest  race  tracks  in  the  world.  The  State  fairs 
are  annually  held  in  September.  The  Masons  and  Odd  Fellows  have  each  imposing 
temples,  in  which  their  lodge  rooms  are  located.  The  United  States  Government 
has  erected  a  Post  Office  Building,  for  which  an  appropriation  of  $100,000 
was  made.  The  County  Court  House  (formerly  used  for  a  State  Capitol) 
cost  $200,000  ;  and  a  brick  and  iron  Had  of  Records  has  recently  been 
completed  at  a  cost  of  $50,000.  The  County  Hospital  built  on  the  pavilion 
plan,  can  accommodate  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  patients,  and  cost 
$75,000.  The  State  Library  contains  some  sixty  thousand  volumes;  the  Free 
Public  Library,  of  twelve  thousand  volumes,  with  the  two  story  building  in  which 
it  is  contained,  is  the  property  of  the  City,  and  is  maintained  by  a  City  tax. 
The  Order  of  Odd-Fellows  maintain  a  library  of  about  eight  thousand  volumes. 
The  Crocker  Art  Gallery  is  also  the  property  of  the  City.  It  is  a  brick  and  iron 
building,  three  stories  high,  and  in  it  are  contained  some  of  the  finest  paintings 
and  statuary,  together  with  an  extensive  cabinet  of  minerals,  the  property  of  the 
State. 

Webster.  Leaving  Sacramento,  and  crossing  the  Sacramento  River  on 
a  bridge  600  feet  in  length,  the  train  passes  through  Webster,  which  is  a 
suburb  of  the  city.  Beyond  we  cross  a  belt  of  swampy  country  known  locally  as 
"  The  Tules."  The  track  is  elevated  above  the  danger  of  floods  by  means  of 
embankments  and  a  trestle  bridge. 

Davis.  This  place  is  the  junction  with  the  main  line  of  a  branch  passing 
through  the  west  side  of  the  Sacramento  Valley  to  Tehama,  the  country  round 
about  being  rich  and  fertile,  and  capable  of  producing  an  unlimited  amount  of 
fruit,  cereals  and  vegetables.     Distance  from  Ogden,  736  miles. 

Fremont,  Dixon,  Batavia  are  soon  passed,  when  we  arrive  at 


TO    THE    GOLDEN   GATE. 


165 


ELMIRA. 

Junction    Point 

to 

Vaca  and  Capay 

Valleys. 


At  this  point  the  tourist  will  do  well  to  take  the 
side  trip  through  the  great  Vaca  and  Capay  Valleys. 
These  valleys  supply  all  the  earliest  fruits  and 
vegetables.  The  soil  is  of  surprising  fertility, 
yielding  bountifully  of  every  crop  with  no  necessity 
for  irrigation.  The  climate  is  superb,  it  being  a 
continual  Indian  summer  the  entire  year.  The 
health  of  the  inhabitants,  their  industry,  wealth  and 
prosperity,  have  all  tended  to  make  this  place  the 
most  desirable  for  settlement.  Semi-tropical  and  citrus  fruits  grow  luxuriantly, 
and  are  of  unusual  size  and  lusciousness.  These  valleys  are  veritable  gardens  of 
Eden,  and  a  continuous  panorama  of  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  country. 
Cannon  and  Suisun  are  more  or  less  important  stations,  but  of  no  especial 
interest  to  the  tourist.  Having  passed  Suisun  the  waters  of  Suisun  Bay  approach 
the  track,  and  at  high  tide  ripple  against  the  embankment.  For  twelve  miles 
this  bay  is  always  in  close  proximity. 

Army  Point.  Distance  from  Ogden,  797  miles.  This  is  the  station  for 
the  headquarters  of  the  United  States  army  in  California. 

Benicia.  Situated  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  Suscol  hills,  Benicia  extends 
down  to  the  bank  of  the  Sacramento  River.  This  is  the  head  of  navigation  for 
sea-going  ships  and  is  a  very  charmingly  situated  city.  Benicia  was  at  one  time 
the  capital  of  California,  but  is  now  a  quiet  residence  town,  with  a  number  of 
large  manufacturing  interests  to  maintain  its  commercial  importance.  (Population, 
2,400.  Distance  from  Ogden,  Soo  miles.    Elevation,  10  feet.) 

Crossing  the  Straits  of  Carquinez.  From  Benicia  to  Port  Costa 
the  journey  is  continued  on  the  Solano,  the  largest  ferry  boat  in  the  world.  This 
boat  can  transport  at  one  time  fifty-four  loaded  freight  cars  and  consequently  finds 
no  difficulty  in  bearing  our  entire  train  safely  across  the  straits,  a  distance  of  one 
mile,  with  an  expenditure  of  little  if  any  more  than  twenty  minutes  of  time.  To 
most,  this  experience  is  a  novel  one,  and  the  cars  are  quickly  emptied  by  their 
occupants,  and  the  tourists  gaze  delightedly  at  the  broad  expanse  of  waters  and 
inhale  gratefully  the  invigorating  saline  odors  wafted  from  the  neighboring  ocean. 
The  cars  are  run  directly  on  to  the  boat  and  when  Port  Costa  is  reached  the 
journey  by  rail  is  resumed. 

Port  Costa.  Here  the  sea-going  ships  can  be  seen  lying  close  to  the 
wharfs,  and  the  tourist  begins  to  appreciate  the  fact  that  his  long  journey  to  the 
Pacific  coast  is  nearly  completed.  At  this  point  the  Southern  Pacific's  line  to  Los 
Angeles  branches  to  the  southwest. 

Vallejo  Juuction.  The  town  of  Vallejo  lies  across  the  straits  a  distance 
of  two  miles.  At  this  junction  a  branch  line  runs  to  Napa  and  Calistoga,  also  to 
Santa  Rosa. 

Pinole.     Another  town  of  wharfs  and  warehouses. 

Sixteenth  Street,  Oakland.  This  is  the  small  station  for  the  large  city 
of  Oakland.  The  great  Bay  of  San  Francisco  lies  to  our  right  and  beyond  can  be 
seen  the  spires  of  San  Francisco. 

Oakland  Pier.  This  marvel  of  engineering  has  been  constructed  for  two 
miles  directly  out  into  the  bay.  At  its  terminus  is  an  immense  building  containing 
waiting  rooms  and  all  necessary  accommodations  for  the  convenience  of  the  great 
army  of  travelers  who  disembark  on  the  arrival  of  trains.  All  the  passenger  trains 
for  the  east,  north  or  south  are  made  up  at  this  depot,  and  here  all  incoming 
passengers  leave  their  trains  and  are  transported  on  magnificent  ferry  boats  to  San 
Francisco. 


166 


SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  SAN  DIEGO. 


SAN   FRANCISCO. 

The    Great  City 

by 

The    Golden     Gate. 

Population, 
400,000. 


The  first  view  of  San  Francisco  which  the  over- 
land tourist  obtains  from  the  bow  of  the  ferry  boat 
that  bears  him  from  Oakland  Pier  to  the  foot  of 
Market  street,  is  most  enchanting.  A  city  set  on  a 
hill,  beautiful  for  situation,  it  commands  attention 
and  demands  the  most  enthusiastic  admiration. 
Nor  does  "  familiarity  breed  contempt."  The  first 
pleasant  impression  is  confirmed  and  deepened  by 
every  day's  experience  within  the  gates  of  this  most 
hospitable  and  beautiful  city.  Fitz  Hugh  Ludlow, 
whose  early  death  was  a  great  loss  to  literature,  if 
one  may  judge  by  the  early  fruitage  of  a  tree  toe 
soon  cut  down  by  cruel  frost,  speaks  glowing  words,  and  true  ones  of  this  city  by 
the  sea.  He  says:  "  To  a  traveler  paying  his  first  visit,  it  has  the  interest  of  a  new 
planet.  It  ignores  the  meteorological  laws  which  govern  the  rest  of  the  world. 
There  is  no  snow.  There  are  no  summer  showers.  The  tailor  recognizes  no 
aphelion  or  perihelion  in  his  custom;  the  thin  woolen  suit  made  in  April,  is  com- 
fortably worn  until  April  again.  Save  that  in  so-called  winter  frequent  rain* 
falls  alternate  with  spotless  intervals  of  amber  weather,  and  that  soi-disant 
summer  is  an  entire  amber  mass,  its  unbroken  divine  days  concrete  in  it, 
there  is  no  inequality  on  which  to  forbid  the  bans  between  May  and  December.  In 
San  Francisco  there  is  no  work  for  the  scene-shifter  of  Nature.  The  wealth  of 
that  great  dramatist,  the  year,  resulting  in  the  same  manner  as  the  poverty  of 
dabblers  in  private  theatricals — a  single  flat  doing  service  for  the  entire  play. 
Thus,  save  for  the  purposes  of  notes  of  hand,  the  almanac  of  San  Francisco  might 
replace  its  mutable  months  and  seasons  with  one  great,  kindly,  constant,  sumptu- 
ous All  the  Year  'Round.  Out  of  this  benignant  sameness  what  glorious  fruits  are 
produced  !  Fruit  enough,  metaphorical  ;  for  the  scientific  man  or  artist  who 
cannot  make  hay  while  such  a  sun  shines,  from  April  to  November,  must  be  a 
slothful  laborer,  indeed,  But,  fruit  also  literal ;  for  what  joy  of  vegetation  is  lack- 
ing to  the  man  who,  every  month  in  the  year,  can  look  through  his  study  window 
on  a  green  lawn,  and  have  strawberries  and  cream  for  his  breakfast.  Who  can  sit 
down  to  this  royal  fruit,  and  at  the  same  time  to  apricots,  peaches,  nectarines, 
blackberries,  raspberries,  melons,  figs,  both  yellow  and  purple,  early  apples  and 
grapes  of  many  kinds." 

But  aside  from  the  claims  of  climate,  which  appealed  so  strongly  to  Ludlow, 
San  Francisco  has  artistic  and  architectural  claims  that  command  respect  and 
admiration,  to  say  nothing  of  her  vast  commercial  and  mercantile  interests. 

San  Francisco  has  suffered  greatly  from  fire  in  the  past,  but  has  always 
arisen  from  its  ashes  in  renewed  beauty.  A  condensed  history  of  these  great 
conflagrations  may  be  of  interest : 

167 


168  OVER    THE   RANGE 

December  24th,  1849.  First  great  fire.  More  than  $1,000,000  worth  of 
property  destroyed. 

May  4U1,  1850.  Second  great  fire.  Three  blocks  of  buildings  consumed. 
Loss,  $4,000,000. 

June  14th,  1850.     Third  great  fire.     Loss,  $5,000,000. 

September  17th,  1850.  Fourth  great  fire.  An  extensive  area  of  compara- 
tively inexpensive  buildings  destroyed.     Loss,  $500,000. 

December  14th,  1850.  Fire  on  Sacramento  and  Montgomery  streets.  Loss, 
$1,000,000.     This  is  not  generally  classed  among  the  great  fires. 

May  4th,  1851.  Fifth  great  fire.  Eighteen  blocks  entirely  burned,  and  parts 
of  six  others  destroyed.  The  length  of  the  burned  district  was  three-fourths  of  a 
mile,  and  its  width  half  a  mile.     Loss,  $10,000,000  to  $12,000,000. 

June  22d,  1851.  Sixth  great  fire.  Ten  blocks  and  parts  of  six  others  des. 
troyed.     Loss,  $3,000,000. 

When  the  Oakland  ferry  boat,  a  most  magnificent  steamer  by  the  way,  enters 
her  pier  at  the  foot  of  Market  street,  the  traveler  will  find  ample  means  of  convey- 
ance to  any  hotel.  If  of  an  economical  turn  of  mind  he  can  board  a  cable  car, 
after  running  the  gauntlet  of  vociferous  "cabbies,"  and  for  five  cents  be  carried 
smoothly  and  quickly  to  almost  any  part  of  the  city  ;  or,  handing  his  baggage 
checks  to  one  of  the  agents  of  the  United  Carriage  Company,  he  can  drive  to  his 
destination  in  considerable  more  "style,"  and  at  a  moderate  expense,  the  amount 
being  determined  by  the  distance  traveled — but  extortion  need  not  be  feared,  as 
cab  fares  are  regulated  by  a  city  ordinance.  Once  at  home  in  hotel  or  lodgings — 
and  San  Francisco  can  furnish  either  of  these  of  the  very  best  character — the 
traveler  can  map  out  excursions  in  the  city  and  its  environs  that  will  pleasantly 
occupy  his  time  for  a  fortnight,  or  which  can  be  crowded  into  the  space  of  three 
or  four  days. 

Everybody  has  heard  of  the  Cliff  House  and 
the  Seal  Rocks.  These  attractions  are  pretty  sure 
to  command  first  attention.  The  Cliff  House  may 
be  reached  by  three  routes.  These  are  tersely 
described  by  Mr.  Charles  Turrell,  in  his  valuable 
California  notes,  as  follows  :  "  One  of  these  routes 
is  the  old  road  that  begins  at  the  Mission  and  winds 
over  the  hills,  affording  many  attractive  views  of  the 
city  and  the  bay  beyond,  the  Contra  Costa  Mount- 
ains and  Mount  Diablo  towering  in  the  remote  east. 
This  road  descends  to  the  Ocean  beach,  passing  near  Merced  Lake — Laguna  de  la 
Merced — the  largest  lake  in  the  county.  From  the  Ocean  Side  House  to  the  Cliff 
House,  a  distance  of  some  two  and  a  half  miles,  the  road  follows  the  sandy  beach. 
As  this  road  is  quite  long,  and  the  latter  part  very  heavy,  but  few  follow  it.  An- 
other route  is  by  Point  Lobos  avenue,  a  broad,  well  macadamized  street,  com- 
mencing at  the  western  end  of  Geary  street  and  continuing  in  a  straight  line  to  the 
Ocean  beach.  This  was  for  many  years  the  fashionable  drive  for  San  Franciscans. 
However,  since  the  Golden  Gate  Park  has  been  opened,  and  its  serpentine  drives  to 
the  beach  completed,  the  Point  Lobos  road  has  fallen  into  disuse."  This  drive  is 
the  one  we  took,  and  we  found  it  a  most  charming  way.  The  Haight  street  cable 
car  for  Golden  Gate  Park  took  our  party  to  the  entrance  of  the  Park,  and  here  a 
carriage  was  engaged  for  the  drive  to  the  Cliff  House  and  return  ;  thus  economy 
was  subserved  and  nothing  of  pleasure  lost.  The  Park,  though  in  a  state  of  tran- 
sition  from   wild  land  to  a  cultivated   Paradise,  presented  many  most  charming 


CLIFF  HOUSE 

AND 

SEAL  ROCKS 

Novel  and 

Characteristic 

Attractions. 


TO     THE    GOLDEN  GATE. 


169 


views.  The  abundance  of  natural  flowers,  the  flora  new  to  our  unaccustomed 
eyes,  the  conservatory  abounding  in  tropical  flowers,  the  shaven  lawns,  and  the 
artistically  arranged  trees  and  shrubbery,  were  objects  of  great  interest.  From 
Inspiration  Point  we  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  the  Golden 
Gate.  The  most  characteristic  objects  of  interest  at  the  terminus  of  this  drive,  are 
the  Seal  Rocks  and  their  curious  occupants.  The  rocks  are  conical  in  shape,  three 
in  number,  and  vary  in  height  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet.  These  rocks  are  the 
haunts  of  seals,  and  it  is  said  that  there  is  never  a  moment  when  scores  of  these 
curious  marine  mammals  may  not  be  seen  basking  in  the  rays  of  the  sun  on  these 
rocks,  or  struggling  among  themselves  for  a  place  thereon.     These  seals  are  pro- 


VIEWS    FROM    THE    CLIFF    HOUSE. 


tected  by  law,  and  there  is,  therefore,  no  great  danger  of 
future  travelers  visiting  Seal  Rocks  only  to  be  disappointed. 
San  Francisco  Bay.  As  a  harbor  it 
ranks  among  the  few  great  seaports  of  the  world. 
A  land-locked  sheet  of  water,  some  fifty  miles  long 
and  of  varying  width.  It  has  the  advantage  of 
lying  at  the  central  edge  of  a  great  area  of  agricul- 
tural land.  The  shipments  through  this  port  are 
very  heavy,  giving  constant  employment  to  a  large 
fleet  of  steamers  and  sailing-vessels.  It  is  also  the 
terminal  point  of  the  great  transcontinental  routes. 
If  the  tourist  will  take  a  seat  on  the  dummy  of 
either  the  California  Street  or  Jackson  Street  cable  cars  and  ride  as  far  as  Mason 
Street,  the  trip  will  be  amply  rewarded.  Perhaps  the  best  time  to  view  this  mag- 
nificent panorama  would  be  in  the  forenoon.  To  the  left  we  have  the  Golden  Gate, 
the  wonderfully  beauteous  entrance  to  the  still  more  beautiful  bay  ;  to  the  right 
the  sheet  of  water  merges  into  the  distant  hills  bordering  the  Santa  Clara  Valley. 
Before  us  lie,  in  semi-circular  form,  Mt.  Tamalpais,  standing  on  the  northern  side 


SAN  FRANCISCO  BAY. 

A  Beautiful  Sheet 

of  Water  and 

Land  -  Locked   Harbor 

of 

Inestimable  Value. 

170 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  171 

of  the  Golden  Gate  ;  Saucelito,  San  Pablo  Bay,  the  debouchere  of  California's  two 
great  rivers — the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  ;  then  we  have  the  Contra  Costa 
Mountains  and,  just  beyond,  Mount  Diablo's  graceful  peak,  while  nestling  at  their 
base  we  distinctly  trace  the  towns  of  Berkeley,  Oakland,  Alameda,  Haywards, 
and  Oakland  Pier.  The  steamers  of  the  ferry  lines  may  be  viewed  ploughing  their 
rapid  way  to  and  from  San  Francisco.  Close  to  the  Pier,  Goat  Island  rises  three 
hundred  and  forty  feet  out  of  the  water.  It  is  the  most  southerly  island  in  the 
bay,  save  the  Mission  Rock,  now  surrounded  by  warehouses,  etc.  West  of  Goat 
Island  is  Alcatraz  Island,  situated  about  one  mile  due  east  of  the  Golden  Gate, 
whose  entrance  it  commands.  It  is  one-third  of  a  mile  long  and  one-tenth  of  a 
mile  wide,  irregular  in  shape  and  contains  about  twelve  acres,  composed  mainly  of 
solid  rock.  A  perfect  belt  of  batteries  surround  the  island,  mounting  several 
very  heavy  guns  on  all  sides  as  well  as  on  the  top.  On  the  highest  point  of  the 
island  stands  a  light-house,  whose  light  can  be  seen,  on  a  clear  night,  twelve  miles 
at  sea,  outside  of  the  Golden  Gate.  Next  in  succession  is  Angel  Island,  three 
miles  north  of  San  Francisco,  the  largest  and  most  valuable  island  in  the  bay.  It 
contains  six  hundred  acres  of  excellent  land,  watered  in  many  places  by  natural 
springs.  Three  fixed  batteries,  mounting  large,  heavy  guns,  are  here,  besides 
large  barracks,  accommodating  the  garrison.  On  the  bay  we  see  craft  of  every 
kind,  from  the  tiny  skiff  to  the  monster  six-masted  ocean  steamers.  Scows  and 
steamers  may  be  seen  in  every  direction;  the  propeller,  the  paddler  are  all  herein  busy 
activity.  Fringing  the  water  front  is  a  forest  of  masts,  the  black  hulls  from  whence 
they  spring  being  scarcely  visible  on  account  of  the  long  line  of  the  sea-wall  and 
warehouses  that  intercept  the  view.  In  every  direction,  lying  peacefully  at  anchor, 
are  vessels  just  arrived  or  about  to  depart.  Here,  too,  snugly  harbored,  are  the 
little  yachts  of  the  different  clubs — white-winged  birds  of  pleasure. 

There  are  several  "  squares"  in  San  Francisco,  the  most  noted  of  which  is 
Portsmouth  Square,  with  an  area  of  275  by  204  feet  2  inches.  Its  history  is 
important.  On  July  8th,  1846,  Captain  Montgomery,  of  the  United  States 
sloop-of-war  Portsmouth,  then  lying  in  the  bay,  at  the  command  of  Commodore 
Sloat,  raised  the  American  flag  on  the  plaza  of  what  was  then  called  "  Yerba 
Buena  " — now  San  Francisco.  A  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  from  the  Portsmouth 
announced  the  fact  that  the  United  States  had  taken  possession  of  Northern 
California.  This  square  was  then  named  Portsmouth  Square,  and  at  the  same  time 
Montgomery  street  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Captain. 

Telegraph  Hill  is  dear  to  the  hearts  of  old  Californians.  In  1849  a  signal 
station  was  established  on  this  elevation,  and  the  dwellers  at  the  "  Bay"  were 
notified  of  the  approach  of  vessels  from  sea  by  means  of  a  well  understood  system 
of  signals.  A  tract  of  275  feet  square  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  has  recently  been 
purchased  by  some  public  spirited  citizens  and  presented  to  the  city  for  a  perpetual 
park. 

Many  tourists  take  interest  in  the  cemeteries  of  a  city  ;  to  such  a  brief  mention 
of  those  in  San  Francisco  will  be  interesting.  Most  of  these  "cities  of  the  dead  "  are 
best  reached  via  the  Geary  Street  Cable  Railway.  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery,  near  the 
foot  of  a  solitary  hill,  called  Lone  Mountain,  presents  the  finest  examples  of 
mausoleum  architecture  in  California.  Landscape  gardening  contributes  greatly  to 
the  beauty  of  the  scene. 

The  four  principal  cemeteries  of  the  city  surround  Lone  Mountain.  They  are 
"  Laurel  Hill,"  "  Calvary,"  the  Roman  Catholic  burial  ground,  and  the  cemeteries 
of  the  Masons  and  the  Odd-Fellows. 


172 


OVER     THE    RANGE 


The  oldest  building  in  San  Francisco  and  the 
one  most  noted, considered  historically, is  the  Mission 
Church,  on  the  corner  of  Dolores  and  Seventeenth 
Streets.  Considerable  of  the  original  building  re- 
mains and  many  of  the  interior  decorations  have 
been,  to  a  certain  degree,  retained  in  their  pristine 
state — sufficient  to  recall  the  times  of  the  early 
fathers.  The  adobe  walls  are  three  feet  thick,  rest- 
ing on  a  low  foundation  of  rough  stone,  not  laid  in  mortar  ;  and  the  roof  is  covereo 
with  heavy  semi-cylindrical  tiles.  The  floor  is  of  earth,  except  near  the  altar,  and 
the  entire  structure  rude  in  character   and    still    used   for  purposes  of  worship. 


THE 

MISSION    DOLORES. 

Oldest  Building  in 

San  Francisco. 

Founded  Oct.  8,  1776. 


IN    SAN    FRANCISCO    BAY 


Adjoining  it  is  the  Mission  Cemetery,  not  used  for  purposes  or  interment  since 
1858.  Many  of  the  inscriptions  on  the  tombs  are  in  Spanish.  Clustering  around 
the  mission  are  a  few  adobe  buildings,  red  tiled  but  dilapidated,  yet  speak  to  the 
thoughtful  of  five  score  years  and  more.  It  is  best  reached  by  taking  the  Castro 
Street  cable  car  of  the  Market  Street  Railway. 

The  theatres  are  numerous  and  first  class,  but  English  theatres  are  the  same 
in  kind  the  world  over,  and  need  no  special  description.  Not  so,  however,  with 
the  Chinese  theatre.  This  is  sui  generis,  entirely  novel  and  of  remarkable  interest. 
There  are  two  of  these  theatres  in  San  Francisco,  and  the  histrionic  peculiarities  of 
the  Celestial  drama  can  here  be  seen  in  greater  perfection  than  in  any  other  city  in 
the  world,  with  the  exception  of  those  of  China.  There  is  no  danger  in  visiting 
these  theatres,  as  they  are  as  well  conducted,  in  their  peculiar  Chinese  way,  as  any 
other  place  of  amusement ;  but  if  there  is  a  party,  especially  if  it  contains  ladies, 
the  escort  of  a  guide  should  be  secured.  Through  his  influence  and  acquaintance 
seats  can  be  obtained  upon  the  stage,  and  a  fine  view  of  the  wonderful  perform- 


TO    THE    GOLDEN'    GATE.  173 

ance  obtained.  The  stage  has  no  scenery.  The  orchestra  occupies  the  back  of 
the  stage,  and  the  most  industrious  member  of  it  is  the  man  who  manipulates  the 
big  bronze  cymbals  and  the  gongs.  This  fellow  punctuates  the  dialogue  with 
vigorous  blows  on  his  loud  resounding  instruments,  giving  to  the  drama  the 
characteristic  of  operatic  recitative.  The  other  instruments  are  the  Chinese  violin 
and  fife.  The  result  is  a  queer  kind  of  barbaric  harmony,  but  to  the  English  ear 
there  is  absolutely  no  melody.  The  "property  "  man  sits  on  the  stage  in  full  view 
of  the  audience  and  supplies  the  actors  with  such  properties  as  they  may  need 
during  the  action  of  the  play.  The  actors  are  masters  of  their  art.  They  possess 
great  facial  mobility,  and  even  through  their  conventional  "  make  up  "one  can 
recognize  their  histrionic  ability.  No  women  are  allowed  to  act  in  the  Chinese 
dramas,  and  all  female  characters  are  played  by  men.  These  actors  are  exceedingly 
clever,  and  in  voice  and  action  imitate  the  weaker  sex  most  admirably.  A  good 
female  impersonator  receives  a  very  large  salary  from  the  management.  Whenever 
it  is  necessary  to  personate  a  death  upon  the  stage,  the  actor  lies  quietly  for  a 
moment,  and  then  calmly  rises  and  walks  off.  A  stick  with  a  tuft  of  horse  hair 
represents  a  horse,  and  a  gesture  of  the  leg  signifies  that  the  cavorting  animal  has 
been  mounted.  After  all,  these  conventionalities  are  not  much  more  crude  than 
those  of  the  Shakesperian  age.  The  dramas  are  historical,  and  some  of  them  are 
more  extended  even  than  a  Wagnerian  triology — requiring  from  three  to  four  weeks 
to  present  a  single  play. 

It  would  be  vain  for  the  writer  to  attempt  to  give  a  circumstantial  description 
of  the  attractions  of  San  Francisco.  It  would  require  a  volume,  and  the  pen  of  a 
Bayard  Taylor  to  do  the  city  justice.  As  a  convenience  for  strangers,  the  follow- 
ing list  of  places  of  amusement  and  points  of  general  interest  is  annexed  : 

New  Baldwin  Theatre — Baldwin  Hotel.     Market  and  Powell. 

The  Alcazar — O'Farrell  street,  between  Stockton  and  Powell. 

Bush  Street  Theatre— Bush  street,  above  Montgomery. 

Stockwell's  Theatre — Powell  street,  opposite  Baldwin  Hotel. 

Tivoli  Opera  House — Eddy  street,  near  Baldwin  Hotel.  Grand  operatic 
performance  every  evening.  Grand  orchestra  and  chorus.  Admission,  25  cents. 
Extra  to  reserve. 

Wigwam  Theatre — Geary  and  Stockton  streets.  Admission,  10  cents  and 
25  cents. 

Panorama  Building — Corner  Tenth  and  Market  streets.  Open  daily  (Sun- 
days included)  from  9  a.  m.  to  11  p.  m.     Admission,  50  and  25  cents. 

"Orpheum"  Opera  House — O'Farrell  street,  opposite  "Alcazar."  Ad- 
mission, 25  cents.     Extra  to  reserve. 

Morosco's  Grand  Opera  House — Mission  street  near  Third  street. 

Chinese  Theatre — Grand  Chinese  Theatre,  S14  Washington  street.  Per- 
formances every  evening  by  full  Chinese  Company.  Admission,  50  cents.  Private 
Boxes,  $3.00. 

Golden  Gate  Park — Contains  over  1,000  acres  ;  extends  from  Baker  street 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  3^  miles.  Reached  by  Market  Street  Cable  Railway  via 
Haight,  Hayes,  or  McAllister  streets,  from  ferries  ;  or,  Geary  Street  Cable  Road, 
from  corner  of  Kearney  and  Geary  streets  ;  and  via  Powell  or  California  Street 
Cable  Roads.  It  was  in  this  beautiful  Park  that  the  Mid- Winter  Fair  of  1894 
was  located. 


GLIMPSE    OF    CELESTIAL    LIFE    IN    SAN    FRANCISCO. 


174 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  175 

Cliff  House  and  Seal  Rocks — Point  Lobos,  6  miles  from  City  Hall.    A 
magnificent  drive  over  a  perfect  road  leading  through  Golden  Gate  Park  ;  or,  can 
be  reached  by  Market  Street  Cable  Railroad,  Haight  Street  Division,   connecting 
at  terminus  with  trains  of  Park  &  Ocean  Railroad  direct  to  Ocean  Beach,   near 
Cliff  House.     Distance  from  Oakland   Ferry,   about  8  miles  ;  time,  55  minutes  ; 
fare,  10  cents.     Also  reached  by  Powell  Street  Cable  Railroad  and  Ferries  and 
Cliff  House  Railroad. 

Sutro   Heights — The   private    garden    of  Adolph  Sutro,   made    beautiful 
beyond  description  by  the  gardener  and  artist,  is  just  back  of  the  Cliff  House,  but 
higher  up.     Open  daily  from  10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

Presidio  Reservation — Fronts  on  the   Golden   Gate  for  about  two  miles. 
It  has  several  beautiful  drives,  is  owned  by  the  Government,  and  its  barracks  have 
the  largest  military  force  on  the  Pacific  Coast.     Drive  out  California  Street  or  take 
California  Street,  Jackson  Street  or  Union  Street  cable  cars. 

Postoffice — Corner  of  Washington    and   Battery  Streets.     General  delivery 
is  open  from  7:30a.  m.  to  11:00  p.  m.  everyday,  Sundays  excepted  ;  Sundays, 
from  1  to  2  p.  m.     Branch  postoffice,  station  "  A,"  1309  Polk  street  ;  "  B,"  City 
Hall  ;   "C,"  Twentieth  and  Mission  streets  ;  "  D,"  Market   street  Wharf  ;  "  E," 
Third  and  Townsend  streets ;   "  F,"  Post  and  Devisadero  streets  ;  "G,"  17th  and 
Market  streets;  "  H,"    Laguna   and   Ivy   avenue;   "J,"   Stockton   and   Union; 
"K,"  30  New   Montgomery.     Branch  offices  open  from  8  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  daily 
except  Sunday.     Open  on  Sundays  from  1  p.  m.  to  2  p.  m. 

Markets    for   fruit,    flowers,    fish,    game   and   other   produce:      California 
Market,   California   Street,   below    Kearney ;    Centre    Market,    Sutter  and   Grant 
Avenues.     Visit  early  in  morning.     Semi-tropical  fruits  and   flowers  all  the  year 
round. 

San  Francisco  Stock  Exchange— Pine  street,  between  Montgomery  and 
Sansome. 

Merchants  Exchange— California  street,   between   Montgomery  and  San- 
some. 

United  States  Mint— Fifth  and   Mission  streets.     Visitors  admitted  from 
9  a.m.  to  12  noon,  except  Saturday  and  Sunday. 

California  State  Mining  Bureau— New  Pioneer  Building,  Fourth  street. 
This  institution  has  the  largest  and    most  valuable  collection  of  ores,  minerals, 
fossils,  and  Indian  relics,  in  the  United  States. 

Mission  Dolores— Founded  1776  ;  17th   and  Dolores  streets.     Reached  by 
Valencia  Street  Division  of  Market  Street  Cable  Railway. 

Alcatraz  Island  and  Angel  Island — Permission  to  visit  these  may  be 
secured  at  department  headquarters,  Phelan  Building,  Market  St.,  except  Sundays. 
Steamer  General  McDowell  visits  them  daily. 

Eastern  Railway   Lines— The   offices  of  all  agents  of  eastern  railroads, 
represented  in  San  Francisco,  are  on    Montgomery,  Market  and  New  Montgomery 
streets  ;  in  close  proximity  to  Palace,  Grand  and  Occidental  Hotels. 

Express  Offices— Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.,  corner  Mission  and  New  Montgomery 
streets,  opposite  Palace  Hotel. 

Street  Car  Fares— The  fare  on  all  street  car  lines,  both  horse  and  cable, 
is  5  cents. 

Hack  Fare — One  person,  not  more  than  one  mile......  $1  50 

Two  or  more  persons  "  "  ......     2  50 

Four  or  less,  by  the  hour — first  hour 3  00 

Each  subsequent  hour  ...........................    2  00 


176 


OAKLAND. 

Beautiful     Residence 
City. 

Population,  75,000. 

Distance  from 
San  Francisco,  8  Miles. 

Elevation,  13  Feet. 


TO     THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  177 

Cabs — One  person,  not  more  than  one  mile ...         50 

Two  or  more  persons,  by  hour — first  hour .. 1  50 

Each  subsequent  hour I  00 

Oakland.  It  is  to  be  supposed  that  the 
tourist  in  his  stay  in  San  Francisco  has  not  neglected 
to  visit  this  garden  city.  The  town  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  east  shore  of  the  bay,  the  land  slop- 
ing gradually  down  to  the  waters  from  the  Contra 
Costa  Mountains, which  rise  back  of  the  city  at  a  dis- 
tance of  a  few  miles.  The  foot  hills  are  crowned 
with  the  suburban  villas  of  wealthy  merchants  of 
Oakland  and  San  Francisco,  and  from  their  veran- 
dahs can  be  obtained  a  most  extensive  and  pleasing 
view  of  the  bay,  San  Francisco  and  the  Ocean 
beyond.  Oakland  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  resi- 
dence cities  in  the  world,  and  in  point  of  sylvan  beauty  has  few  if  any  rivals.  The 
houses  are  tastefully  built,  many  of  them  of  the  greatest  elegance,  surrounded  by 
extensive  and  well  kept  grounds,  embowered  in  trees  and  glowing  with  a  lavish 
wealth  of  roses.  It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  Oakland  is  not  also  a 
business  town.  On  the  contrary,  it  possesses  large  mercantile  and  manufacturing 
establishments.  Electric  lights  illuminate  the  wide  and  well  paved  streets  ;  cable 
and  electric  car  lines  are  numerous  and  none  of  the  modern  improvements  lacking. 
Schools  and  churches  abound.  Oakland  is  a  city  of  colleges,  and  numbers  among 
these  institutions  of  higher  education  the  following :  The  State  University 
School,  the  Oakland  Military  School,  the  Convent  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Sacred 
Heart,  the  Oakland  Female  Seminary,  the  Female  College  of  the  Pacific,  and  the 
University  of  California,  at  Berkley,  four  miles  distant.  Among  the  large  manu- 
facturing establishments  may  be  mentioned  the  extensive  machine  shops  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  Company,  the  Judson  Manufacturing  Company,  the  Pacific  Iron 
and  Nail  Company,  besides  cotton  mills,  jute  mills,  flour  mills,  and  innumerable 
other  institutions,  employing  a  large  amount  of  capital  and  thousands  of  men, 
women  and  children.  One  can  reach  San  Francisco  from  Oakland  every  fifteen 
minutes  by  train  and  ferry.  Oakland  is  a  most  charming  place,  and  is  the  home  of 
an  enterprising,  hospitable,  and  intelligent  class  of  people. 

Southward  Boillld.  Having  spent  a  most  delightful  season  in  San 
Francisco,  the  tourist's  face  is  turned  southward,  and  the  journey  to  Los  Angeles 
and  San  Diego  begins.  Taking  the  Oakland  ferry,  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
one  is  borne  pleasantly  over  the  waters  of  the  bay  and  lands  at  Oakland  pier, 
where  he  takes  the  Southern  Pacific  train  for  Los  Angeles. 

Doubling  on  our  Track.  From  Oakland  to  Port  Costa  we  follow  the 
same  line  as  that  upon  which  we  entered  San  Francisco,  therefore,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  make  mention  of  the  intervening  stations.  Passing  Port  Costa,  the  line 
has  the  Sacramento  River  on  its  left,  and  rolling  hills  on  its  right.  Beyond  the 
river  can  be  seen  the  town  of  Benicia  nestling  among  the  coves  of  the  Suscal  Hills. 
Martinez.  A  pleasant  village  among  the  hills.  Fruit  trees  and  vines 
abound,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  and  surrounding  country  are  mainly 
engaged  in  horticulture.  Martinez  is  the  county  seat  of  Contra  Costa  County, 
and  is  a  most  quiet  and  charming  place  of  residence.  Citrus  fruit,  grapes  of  all 
varieties,  and  deciduous  fruits  flourish  without  irrigation,  and  the  climate  is  so 
mild  that  semi-tropical  plants  grow  out  of  doors  without  any  special  protection. 
(Population,  1,500.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  35  miles.      Elevation  10  feet.) 


ON    WHEELS,    THROUGH    GOLDEN    GATE    PARK. 


178 


TO    THE    GOLDEN1    GATE.  179 

Avon,  Bay  Point  and  Cornwall  are  small  intermediate  stations. 
Coal  Mines.  About  six  miles  south  of  Cornwall  are  large  coal  mines,  the 
tramways  for  the  conveying  of  the  product  of  these  mines  pass  over  our  track,  and 
deliver  the  coal  at  Pittsburgh  Landing  on  the  river,  whence  it  is  carried  by  water  to 
destination.  From  Martinez  to  Antioch  the  road  passes  through  a  hill  country  on  our 
right,  with  the  river  to  the  left.  Many  deep  cuts  occur,  and  numerous  small  tribu- 
taries flow  down  the  gulches,  into  the  river.  Up  these  gulches  we  catch 
glimpses  of  neat  farm  houses,  surrounded  by  well  cultivated  fields  and  orchards. 
Mount  Diablo  rises  to  the  south,  and  reaches  an  elevation  of  3,896  feet. 
Among  the  foot  hills  of  this  mountain  are  the  mining  towns  of  Stewartville, 
Empire,  Nortonville  and  Somerville.  At  Cornwall  to  our  left  lies  Suisun  Bay, 
and  here  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento  Rivers  have  their  junction. 

Antioch.  A  shipping  point  for  coal.  The  town  itself  is  a  mile  north  on 
the  banks  of  the  San  Joaquin  River.  From  this  point  also  large  quantities  of  vege- 
tables, strawberries,  fruit,  etc.,  are  shipped  to  San  Francisco.  (Population,  700. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  55  miles.     Elevation,  46  feet.) 

Bentwood.  Wheat  fields  begin  to  appear  here,  dotted  with  live  oaks. 
The  town  is  small  and  supported  by  agricultural  industries,  It  is  situated  on  the 
Marsh  Grant  of  13,000  acres,  on  which  much  stock  is  fed. 

Byron.  The  most  attractive  thing  about 
this  station,  to  the  invalid  and  the  tourist,  is,  its 
near  proximity  to  the  Byron  Hot  Springs,  situated 
two  miles  to  the  south.  The  country  round  about 
is  famous  for  its  production  of  wheat,  alfalfa,  fruit 
and  grapes.  This  being  a  portion  of  the  great  wheat 
belt.  The  hot  springs  have  attracted  much  atten- 
tion, and  a  large  hotel  and  bath  houses  have 
been  erected.  The  springs  are  varied  in  their  characteristics,  being  both  hot 
and  cold,  and  possessing  in  turn  the  constituents  of  sulphur,  iron,  soda  and  mag- 
nesia. There  are  mud  baths,  and  in  fact  all  varieties  of  bathing.  The  temperature 
of  some  of  the  springs  is  as  high  as  1300  Fahrenheit. 

Bethany.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,   76  miles. 

Tracy.  The  junction  of  the  old  Western  Pacific  route  from  San  Francisco 
to  Sacramento  via  Livermore  Pass  with  our  line  to  the  south.  Tracy  is  surrounded 
by  broad  wheat  fields,  which  extend  to  the  northward  beyond  the  reach  of  vision. 
(Population,  400.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  71  miles.     Elevation,  64  feet.) 

Banta.  Small  station  three  miles  from  Tracy,  after  passing  which  we  cross 
the  San  Joaquin  River  on  a  very  long  draw  bridge.  (Population,  150.  Distance 
from  San  Francisco,  74  miles.     Elevation,  30  feet.) 

Lathrop.  Junction  of  the  old  Western  Pacific  and  the  Sunset  Route.  This 
is  a  regular  meal  station  and  here  the  railroad  company  have  erected  a  large  hotel, 
in  which  are  also  their  offices.  Lathrop  is  in  the  heart  of  the  great  San  Joaquin 
wheat  belt.  (Population,  600.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  83  miles.  Elevation, 
26  feet.) 

The  San  Joaquin  Valley.  After  crossing  the  San  Joaquin  River  and 
turning  to  the  right,  our  course  is  up  the  famous  San  Joaquin  Valley  —  the  great 
granary  of  California.  Here  are  five  million  acres  of  the  best  wheat  land  in  the 
world.  A  valley  two  hundred  miles  long  by  thirty  miles  broad,  which  when 
vivified  by  the  magic  touch  of  irrigation,  produces  not  only  wheat  but  also  almost 
every  thing  that  can  be  raised  in  tropical  or  temperate  zones  —  wheat,  corn,  oats, 
flax,   apples,   oranges,  lemons,   figs,  nuts,   olives  —  the  list    is  too  extended    for 


BYRON  HOT  SPRINGS. 

Bathing 

and 

Health  Resort. 


180  OVER     THE    RANGE 

recapitulation.  Properly  conserved  there  is  water  enough  to  irrigate  the  whole 
valley,  and  in  many  places  the  natural  supply  of  water  has  been  supplemented  by 
that  flowing  from  artesian  wells.  After  passing  Lathrop,  we  rattle  through  a 
number  of  small  stations,  all  of  them  with  large  shipping  warehouses,  speaking 
eloquently  of  the  generous  output  of  the  soil. 

Passing  through  Morano,  Ripon,  and  Salida,  small  stations,  we  reach 
Modesto.     County  seat  of  Stanislaus  County,  and  a  prosperous  and  pretty 
town,    surrounded    by   an    industrious    agricultural    people.     (Population,    2,500. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  114  miles.     Elevation,  91  feet.) 

Between  Modesto  and  Merced  are  the  unimportant  stations  of  Ceres,  Turlochs, 
Livingston,  and  Atwater. 

Merced.  A  well-built  town,  the  county  seat  of  Merced  County.  Possessed 
of  good  public  buildings,  fine  private  residences,  and  surrounded  by  an  exceedingly 
rich  agricultural  country,  and  destined  to  be  a  great  manufacturing  center,  Merced 
has  prospered  and  will  continue  to  prosper.  The  county  has  a  population  of 
75,000,  nearly  all  engaged  in  agricultural  pursuits.  (Population,  3,000.  Distance 
from  San  Francisco,  152  miles.     Elevation,  171  feet.) 

Atlllone.  Before  Athlone  is  reached  we  cross  the  Mariposa  River,  and 
after  it  is  passed  the  Conchilk  River.  Wheat  fields  are  on  every  hand.  Irrigating 
ditches  abound.  Vineyards  are  frequently  to  be  seen.  And  Athlone,  a  quiet  little 
village,  sits  in  the  midst  of  fertile  fields.  (Population,  50.  Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  162  miles.     Elevation,  210  feet.) 

This  station  is  situated  at  the  junction  with  the 
main  line  of  the  Yosemite  extension  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad,  which  extends  to  Raymond,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-one  miles  to  the  eastward.  From 
Berenda  a  good  view  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Moun- 
tains can  be  had.  Among  the  highest  peaks  in  view 
are  those  of  Mount  Lyell,  Mount  Tyndal,  Mount 
Goddard  and  Mount  Whitney.  These  mountains, 
which  exceed  14,000  feet  in  altitude,  impress  one 
deeply  with  their  vast  proportions,  more  especially 
because  we  are  so  near  the  sea  level,  being  at  an 
elevation  of  less  than  three  hundred  feet.  Berenda 
has  an  agricultural  and  grazing  country  directly 
tributary  to  it.  (Population,  85.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  178  miles.  Eleva- 
tion, 256  feet.) 

Madera.  This  is  a  leading  shipping  point  for  lumber,  which  is  delivered 
to  this  point  from  the  foot-hills  by  means  of  a  flume  fifty-three  miles  in  length.  The 
great  work  of  constructing  this  flume  was  completed  in  1876,  which  has  been  in 
service  ever  since.  The  amount  of  lumber  delivered  in  this  way  during  the  last  ten 
years  is  something  enormous,  as  may  readily  be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  one 
year's  delivery  amounted  to  over  twenty-two  million  feet.  (Population,  1,500. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  185  miles.     Elevation,  278  feet.) 

Fresno.  Between  Madera  and  Fresno  there  is  some  interesting  country. 
Just  after  leaving  Madera  we  cross  the  Fresno  River,  beyond  Sycamore  the 
San  Joaquin  River,  and  at  Borden,  Cottonwood  Creek.  The  sand  dunes  wil) 
attract  your  attention  beyond  Sycamore — queer  little  hills  of  sand  fifteen  to  *wenty- 
five  feet  in  diameter  and  three  to  six  feet  high.  Fresno  is  the  county-seat  of 
Fresno  County,  and  is  a  most  thriving  and  prosperous  city.  It  has  electric 
lights,  telephones    street  railroads,   water  works,   in  short,   all   the   modern  im- 


BERENDA. 

Junction  Point 
to  the 
World's  Famous 
Yosemite  Valley. 
Big   Trees,    etc. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


181 


provements.  Redwood  and  pine  is  the  material  mostly  in  use  for  building  pur- 
poses, and  the  town  possesses  many  elegant  public  and  private  edifices.  A 
great  variety  of  industries  are  tributary  to  the  town.  Fresno  County  has  about 
50,000  acres  planted  to  grapes,  and  shipped  last  year  over  eight  million  pounds  of 
raisins.  This  is  but  a  small  part  of  the  product  of  the  county.  The  shipments  of 
various  farm  products  reached  the  high  figure  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  million 
pounds  of  freight.     There  is  an  abundant  supply  of  water  for  irrigation,  being 


THE    PETRIFIED    FOREST. 


brought  from  the  mountains  by  means  of  canals  having  an  aggregate  length  of 
eleven  hundred  miles  and  costing  two  million  dollars.  The  capacity  of  these 
canals  for  irrigation  covers  a  space  of  over  seven  hundred  thousand  acres,  thus 
making  Fresno  County  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  regions  in  the  world.  Lom- 
bardy  or  the  Nile  Valley  are  not  richer  in  possibilities.  Many  colonies  have 
formed  settlements  in  the  vicinity  of  Fresno.  These  enterprises,  through  intelli- 
gent and  united  industry,  have  proved  very  successful.     With  a  salubrious  climate: 


182  OVER    THE   RANGE 

fine  scenery,  fertile  land  and  an  industrious  people,  Fresno  has  every  reason  to 
anticipate  a  continuance  of  her  phenomenal  success.  (Population,  12,000.  Dis- 
tance from  San  Francisco,  206  miles.     Elevation,  293  feet.) 

Selllia.  Surrounded  by  a  wheat  growing  country  and  supplied  with  good 
flouring  mills,  this  town  is  in  a  flourishing  condition.  A  great  deal  of  wheat  is 
shipped  from  this  station  —  twenty  million  pounds  last  year.  The  town  has  most 
all  the  modern  improvements.  (Population,  2,200.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
221  miles.     Elevation,  311  feet.) 

King'SDUl'g'.  This  enterprising  little  town  owes  its  prosperity  to  the  fact 
that  it  is  situated  in  the  famous  wheat  belt.  Here  are  to  be  seen  big  warehouses 
for  storing  wheat,  large  quantities  of  which  are  shipped  from  this  station  annually. 
The  cultivation  of  fruit  is  beginning  to  attract  attention  of  the  people.  Irriga- 
tion is  the  salvation  of  this  country,  and  the  water  is  secured,  not  only  through 
ditches,  but  also  by  means  of  windmills  from  wells  varying  in  depth  from  fifteen 
to  fifty  feet.  Soon  after  leaving  the  town,  we  cross  King's  River  on  a  trestle 
bridge,  the  approach  to  which  is  made  over  a  long,  high  embankment.  (Popula- 
tion, 450.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  227  miles.     Elevation,  300  feet.) 

King's  .River,  a  large,  clear  body  of  water,  rises  in  the  Sierras  to  the 
northeast,  and  flows  southwesterly  in  a  broad  and  tortuous  channel,  irrigating  a 
large  scope  of  territory.  King's  River  is  the  boundary  line  between  Fresno  and 
Tulare  Counties. 

Traver.  This  is  a  new  town,  showing  evidence  of  prosperity  and  thrift, 
possesses  a  flouring  mill,  machine  shops,  planing  mills  and  other  business  enter- 
prises of  commercial  importance.  (Population,  600.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
232  miles.     Elevation,  291  feet.) 

Goshen.  The  junction  of  the  Goshen  Division,  which  extends  a  distance 
of  sixty  miles  to  Alcalde.  (Population,  75.  Distance  from  San  Francisco.  240 
miles.     Elevation,  286  feet.) 

The  Goshen  Division.  There  are  a  number  of  small  towns  on  this 
branch,  as  follows:  Hanford,  Armona,  Grandeville,  Lemore,  Huron  and  Alcalde. 
The  land  through  which  the  road  passes  is  very  fertile,  and  prices  for  it  range 
from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  dollars  per  acre. 

Visalia.  This  town  is  the  county-seat  of  Tulare  County,  and  is  situated 
seven  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Goshen,  being  connected  with  that  station  by  means 
of  a  motor  road.  The  Kaweah  River  flows  through  Visalia  and  aids  in  irrigating 
this  most  fertile  region.  (Population  3,000.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  247 
miles.     Elevation,  290  feet.) 

Resources  of  Tulare  County.  The  resources  of  this  county  are 
mo^t  varied,  the  plains  and  the  mountains  meeting  here;  hence,  the  farming  and 
fruit-raising  of  the  one  are  supplemented  by  the  mining,  lumber  industries  and 
stock-raising  of  the  other.  There  are  about  two  million  and  a  half  acres  of  territory 
in  the  mountains,  about  eight  hundred  thousand  acres  among  the  foot-hills,  eleven 
hundred  thousand  acres  of  valley  and  two  hundred  thousand  acres  in  Tulare  Lake 
and  its  surrounding'  "  tule"  lands.  The  mountains  are  covered  with  timber,  and 
tnines  of  gold,  iron,  copper  and  zinc  are  worked.  The  foothills  produce  almost 
every  variety  of  deciduous  and  citrus  fruits,  together  with  grapes — both  wine  and 
raisin.  Lands  can  be  bought  here  at  prices  ranging  from  twenty-five  to  three 
hundred  dollars  an  acre. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE 


183 


TULARE. 

Commercial 

and 

Agricultural  Centre. 

Population, 

4,000. 

Distance  from  San 

Francisco,     251    miles. 

Elevation,  383  feet. 


Ten  miles  beyond  Goshen  we  come  to  Tulare. 
a  thriving  town  of  recent  growth,  with  railroad 
roundhouse,  shops  and  good  station  buildings. 
This  is  a  large  shipping  point,  not  only  via  the 
railroad,  but  by  means  of  wagons  to  interior 
points. 

Irrigation  in  the  Artesian  Belt.  The 
question  of  irrigation  in  California  has  been  one 
of  much  vexation  and  exceedingly  difficult  of  solu- 
tion. The  supply  of  water  has  been  so  very  limited 
I       Elevation,  383  feet.  l^at  m'hions  of  acres  of  land,  as  fertile  as  any  in 

._ ^____^_^^^_^^^_^  the  world  if  irrigated,  and  absolutely  worthless 
without  water,  have  lain  fallow  for  years.  Fortu- 
nately for  California,  it  has  been  discovered  that  this  lack  of  water  can  be  supplied 
in  many  instances  through  the  agency  of  artesian  wells.  In  certain  sections 
of  the  country  these  resources  have  been  developed,  and  the  result  has  been  the 
establishment  of  what  are  popularly  known  as  "artesian  belts."  One  of  these 
zones  extends  from  Caliente  to  Stockton,  the  greatest  development  being  in 
Merced,  Fresno,  Tulare  and  Kern  Counties,  where  over  seven  hundred  flowing 
wells  have  been  established.  These  wells  are  from  250  to  700  feet  in  depth, 
and  an  average  well  will  irrigate  about  150  acres  of  land.  The  capacity  of  each 
well  can  be  largely  increased  by  means  of  storage  reservoirs.  After  leaving 
Tulare  the  derricks  of  artesian  well-borers  can  be  seen  on  each  side  of  the 
railroad  in  great  numbers. 

Tipton  is  a  small  station  of  no  very  great  importance,  except  from  the 
fact  that  it  is  the  shipping  point  for  sheep,  which  are  raised  in  great  numbers  in 
the  surrounding  country.  Seven  miles  to  the  west  lies  Tulare  Lake,  which  is  quite 
a  large  body  of  water,  being  thirty  miles  long  by  twenty-five  miles  wide,  and 
abounding  in  fish  and  water  fowl.  Tipton  is  surrounded  by  a  good  agricultural 
country,  and  enjoys  its  full  measure  of  prosperity.  (Population  400.  Distance 
from  San  Francisco,  262  miles.      Elevation,  267  feet.) 

Beyond  Tipton  are  to'be  seen  great  numbers  of  windmills,  used  particular  for 
the  work  of  irrigation.  Immense  groves  of  eucalyptus,  or  blue  gum  trees  can  be 
seen  from  the  train.  Pixley,  Alila,  Delano,  Poso  and  Lerdo  are  small  stations  of 
minor  importance.     We  cross  the  Kern  River  between  Lerdo  and  Bakersfield. 

Bakersfield  is  the  county-seat  of  Kern  County,  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  two  forks  of  Kern  River.  The  town  has  the  usual  complement  of  public 
and  private  buildings.  It  is  surrounded  by  an  exceedingly  fertile  country.  Four- 
teen miles  southwest  is  Kern  Lake,  seven  miles  long  by  four  wide,  while  six  miles 
farther  is  Buena  Vista  Lake,  a  somewhat  larger  body  of  water.  Irrigation  has 
been  brought  to  great  perfection  in  this  county,  there  being  seven  hundred  miles  of 
irrigating  canals  within  its  limits,  the  largest  having  a  width  of  one  hundred  feet 
and  a  length  of  forty  miles.  Twenty-five  miles  southwest  of  Bakersfield  are  the 
Buena  Vista  Oil  Works.  Tim  oil  region,  eight  miles  long  by  three  wide,  only 
needs  development  to  become  an  exceedingly  valuable  property.  Bakersfield  has, 
as  may  be  seen  by  the  above,  a  most  productive  country  surrounding  it.  (Popula- 
tion, 2,500.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  314  miles.     Elevation,  415  feet.) 

Caliente.  This  station  is  at  the  entrance  to  the  famous  Tehachapi  Pass, 
and  is  located  in  the  embrasure  of  a  deep  and  narrow  canon,  up  which  the  train 
takes  its  difficult  way.  This  is  a  shipping  point  for  freight  from  interior  points 
delivered  to  the  road  by  wagons.     It  is  also  quite  a  stage  station,  stages  leaving 


184 


The  Famous  Loop, 

TEHACHAPI    PASS. 

Distance  from  San 
Francisco,    353    miles. 

Length  of  Loop, 
3,795    feet. 

Altitude  of  Tunnel, 
3,956   feet. 

Altitude  of  Crossing, 
3,034   feet. 

Altitude  Gained, 
78  feet. 


TO  THE  GOLDEN  GA  TE.  185 

Caliente  for  Basin,  Havilah,  Hot  Springs,  Weldon  and  Kernville.   (Population,  50. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  336  miles.     Elevation,  1,290  feet.) 

The  twenty-four  miles  of  journey  up  and  down 
the  Sierra  Nevadas,  at  the  point  where  the  railroad 
makes  the  passage  of  this  range  dividing  the  broad 
valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  the  desert  of  Mojave, 
is  a  most  remarkable  experience,  and  brings  before 
our  eyes  the  wonderful  triumph  of  railway  engineer- 
ing skill.  It  is  alleged  that  three  civil  engineers  of 
great  reputation  first  undertook  to  survey  a  passage 
through  these  peaks  and  crags,  and,  after  repeated 
attempts,  declared  the  route  impassible.  A  boy 
of  twenty  took  up  the  work  where  his  elders  had 
forsaken  it,  and  this  miraculous  railway  path  over 
and  through  the  mountains  is  the  result.  Con- 
cerning this  famous  pass,  Mr.  E.  McD.  Johnstone  writes  graphically  as  follows : 
"As  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Coast  Ranges  in  the  north  culminate  in  the  great 
peak  of  Shasta  (410  24'),  so  in  the  neighborhood  of  Tehachapi  Pass  (35°)  these  two 
great  chains  blend  their  distinguishing  features  of  fern  slope  and  icy  crag,  and 
are  lost  in  an  inextricable  mass  of  jumbled  up  peaks  of  every  conceivable  form  and 
variety.  Although  nature  has  reared  no  such  colossal  masterpiece  as  Shasta  in  the 
welding  of  her  great  rock  bands  in  the  South,  she  has  managed  to  throw  up  her 
earth-works  in  a  manner  so  impregnable  as  to  seemingly  defy  the  art  of  man  to 
penetrate.  The  physical  features  of  this  Tehachapi  country  (the  lowest  pass 
being  4,000  feet  altitude)  seemed  to,  and  did  for  a  time,  baffle  the  shrewdest 
engineers,  but,  finally,  the  track,  by  doubling  back  upon,  and  crossing  itself,  by 
climbing,  squirming  and  curving,  resulted  .in  a  success  and  gave  us  one  of  the 
most  famous  and  dextrous  pieces  of  railroad  engineering  in  the  world." 

Tehachapi  Summit.  The  station  at  the  summit  of  the  pass  is  at  an 
elevation  of  3,964  feet,  and  is  the  highest  point  on  this  extension  of  the  line. 
Sheep  feed  on  the  grass,  which  is  abundant  in  the  valleys  and  gulches  which  sur- 
round the  station. 

Descending-  to  the  Desert.  For  several  miles  the  train  rolls  along 
on  a  level  plateau  on  the  summit  of  this  range  before  the  descent  to  the  Mojave 
Desert  is  made.  A  small  salt  lake  is  passed,  where  abundance  of  the  chloride  of 
sodium,  that  important  article  of  commerce,  can  be  shoveled  up  from  the  bed  of 
the  lake,  it  being  entirely  exposed  during  the  summer  by  the  evaporation  of  its 
waters. 

Cameron  is  a  small  station  passed  about  midway  between  the  summit  and 
Mojave,  at  the  base  of  the  range 

Mojave  is  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  of  the  same  name,  and  the  water  used 
s  brought  in  pipes  from  Cameron,  a  distance  of  ten  miles.  This  place  is  the 
junction  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Railroad  with  the  Southern  Pacific.  (Popula- 
tion 300.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  382  miles.     Elevation,  2751  feet.) 

The  Mojave  Desert.  A  desert  isn't  as  a  general  rule  much  of  an  ob- 
ject of  interest  to  travelers,  especially  to  those  who  have  made  the  transcontinental 
journey  and  experienced  the  monotony  of  the  deserts  of  Utah  and  Nevada.  How- 
ever we  must  say  this,  that  we  found  many  things  to  interest  us  while  traversing  the 
famed  sand  wastes  of  Mojave.     In  the  first  place  there  were  the  giant  Cacti  or 


186  OVER    THE    RANGE 

Yucca  Palm,  a  sight  novel  to  our  eyes,  and  peculiar  in  and  of  itself.  This  cactus 
grows  to  the  size  of  a  tree,  reaching  an  average  height  of  twenty-five  feet,  and 
attaining  very  often  that  of  fifty  feet.  Its  diameter  is  often  that  of  two  feet,  and 
sometimes  even  greater ;  with  its  spreading  club-like  branches,  its  trailing  bark  and 
peculiar  form,  the  Yucca  Palm  is  indeed  an  interesting  feature  in  the  landscape. 
Another  attraction  is  the  peculiar  form  of  the  buttes,  which  rise  from  the  desert 
sands  on  every  side.  Varying  in  height  from  two  to  five  hundred  feet,  grooved 
and  channeled  by  the  elements,  they  give  variety  and  interest  to  the  landscape. 
One  must  not  neglect  to  mention  the  mirage  as  a  third  element  of  variety.  We  do 
not  remember  ever  to  have  seen  more  complete  or  deceptive  mirage  effects  than 
those  of  the  Mojave  Desert. 

Rosamond.  Lancaster,  Acton  are  desert  stations  of  small  interest.  The 
Solidad  Mountains  tower  to  our  right  as  Rosamond  is  passed,  and  we  later  on 
make  our  way  through  this  range  by  means  of  what  is  known  as  the  Solidad  Pass, 
reaching  an  altitude  of   3,211  feet. 

Newliall.  This  station  is  not  very  large,  but  boasts  a  large  hotel,  capable 
of  entertaining  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  From  here  may  be  plainly  seen  the 
San  Fernando  Mountains,  exceedingly  perpendicular,  and  rising  to  an  altitude  of 
three  thousand  feet.  These  mountains  could  not  be  passed  until  a  tunnel  six 
thousand  nine  hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet  long  had  been  made. 

In  this  vicinity  are  oil  refineries  producing  about  five  thousand  barrels  of  oil 
per  day.     The  oil  fields  are  but  a  short  distance  from  Newhall. 

San  Fernando  Tunnel.  From  Newhall  we  ascend  the  grade  through 
cuts  until  the  tunnel  is  reached.  The  grade  is  one  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  to  the 
mile,  and  as  we  approach  from  the  north  in  the  tunnel,  it  is  thirty-seven  feet  per 
mile,  the  grade  on  the  south  from  the  exit  is  one  hundred  and  six  feet,  while  the 
elevation  of  the  tunnel  is  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  sixty-nine  feet. 

San  Fernando.  The  valley  of  San  Fernando  bursts  on  our  vision  as  we 
emerge  from  the  tunnel,  a  land  of  orange  groves  and  olive  trees,  the  very  opposite 
in  character  from  the  arid  waste  we  have  just  left  behind  us.  The  town  of  San 
Fernando  is  quite  a  place,  and  growing  daily  in  population. 

Through  cultivated  fields,  past  suburban  residences  we  roll,  pausing  for  a 
moment  at  Burbank,  only  eleven  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  Beyond  this  place  we 
journey  through  villages  de  facto,  de  jure  or  in  futuro.  There  are  plenty  of  lot 
stakes,  and  the  suburbs  of  Los  Angeles  will  certainly  be  wide  spread,  if  they  ever 
cover  the  ground  now  laid  out. 

The  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  has  been  passed, 
the  heights  of  Tehachapi  have  been  scaled,  the  desert 
of  Mojave  has  been  crossed,  and  we  are  here  at  last! 
From  our  cheery  heights,  as  we  approach  the  town  we 
gaze  on  a  scene  of  entrancing  beauty.  Mountain-gird- 
led, garden-dotted  city,  lying  on  the  slope  of  the  San 
Gabriel  Mountains,  and  watered  by  streams  from 
the  heights  above,  one  hardly  knows  whether  to  call 
it  a  city  of  gardens  and  groves,  or  an  immense  grove 
and  garden  sprinkled  with  palaces  and  delightful 


LOS  ANGELES. 

The 

Metropolis  of  Southern 

California. 

A  City  of  Tropical 
Magnificence. 


homes.  Health  and  prosperity  seem  to  have  made  themselves  the  presiding  Deities 
of  the  place.  We  gratefully  decide  that  we  have  arrived  at  a  point  where  it  were 
well  to  let  the  train,  like  the  busy  world  it  typifies,  pass  on  and  away,  while  we  rest  in 
this  paradise— a  home  indeed  fit  for  the  angels— and  while  we  bask  in  its  sunshine, 
gaze  at  its  mountain  peaks,  catch  glimpses  of  the  ocean,  breathe  the  fragrance  of 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  187 

its  roses  and  geraniums,  or  listen  to  its  mocking  birds  and  nightingales,  we  unite 
many  a  time  and  oft  in  thanks  to  the  kindly  fate  which  led  our  steps  to  Southern 
California  and  the  City  of  the"  Angels.  There  is  no  city  whose  growth  can  be 
compared  to  Los  Angeles — in  fact,  no  city  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  can  boast 
of  such  rapid  improvements.  Thousands  have  come  to  Southern  California  simply 
to  pay  a  visit,  but  soon  become  charmed  with  its  wonderful  climate  and  beautiful 
surroundings,  so  much  so  that  they  conclude  to  remain  permanently  in  this  land  of 
sunshine  and  flowers.  A  great  deal  has  been  written  of  this  section,  but  the  half 
has  never  been  told.  With  the  greatest  climate  in  the  universe,  the  richest  and 
most  inexhaustible  soil,  the  vast  amount  of  valuable  land  in  and  around  Los 
Angeles,  it  is  no  wonder  that  her  present  condition  is  so  prosperous.  The  beauti- 
ful avenues  extending  away  to  the  foothills  on  the  east  and  to  the  ocean  on  the 
south,  the  orange  groves  within  her  corporate  "imits,  the  magnificent  public  and 
private  buildings  all  tend  to  make  the  Angel  City  a  place  of  wonder.  Main  street, 
the  principal  street  in  town,  is  the  dividing  line  for  east  and  west,  First  street 
the  division  for  north  and  south.  The  wholesale  houses  are  scattered  along  Los 
Angeles,  Commercial,  Aliso  and  Requena  streets,  while  the  large  retail  establish- 
ments are  to  be  found  on  Spring  street,  which  is  to  Los  Angeles  what  State 
street  and  Wabash  avenue  are  to  Chicago.  The  entire  city  south  of  First 
street  is  paved  with  concrete  pavement,  north  of  First  *>eing  laid  with  Belgian 
blocks.  There  are  many  beautiful  parks  within  the  city  Hmits,  and  the  ocean  can 
be  reached  in  a  trifle  over  an  hour's  drive. 

It  may  be  stated  that  the  much-abused  word  "climate"  ha?  doubtless  been  a 
powerful  factor  in  producing  grand  results.  Furthermore,  the  fact  that  hundreds 
of  those  who  were  deemed  hopeless  invalids  on  their  arrival  here  are  to-day  enter- 
prising, energetic  and  successful  capitalists,  merchants,  manufacturers,  formers  and 
orchardists,  attesting  the  effects  of  this  sun-kissed  land  and  health-renewing  climate 
on  the  human  system ;  and  so  long  as  there  are  any  sufferers  from  the  blizzards, 
cyclones  and  other  life-destroying  elements  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  just  so 
long  will  Southern  California,  and  Los  Angeles  in  particular,  continue  to  receive 
thousands  annually  of  the  best  citizens  of  the  republic,  until  it  becomes  the  most 
densely  populated  portion  of  the  United  States. 

Los  Angeles  is  reached  by  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  in  nineteen  hours 
from  San  Francisco  —  distance,  482  miles  —  or  by  steamer.  It  is  a  most  beautiful 
city,  of  60,000  people,  is  growing  rapidly,  and  is  a  commercial  point  of  much 
importance,  as  well  as  the  center  of  an  agricultural  paradise,  it  being  the  principal 
city  between  San  Francisco  and  Kansas  City  on  the  transcontinental  line 
formed  by  the  connection  at  Deming  or  El  Paso.  It  is  also  the  largest  city 
between  San  Francisco  and  San  Antonio,  Texas,  by  the  great  "Sunset  Route," 
now  open  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  city  has  many  elegant  buildings,  wide, 
clean  streets,  with  horse,  cable,  and  electric  railways.  A  day's  ride  over  the 
lovely  country  surrounding  Los  Angeles,  through  miles  of  long,  straight  avenues 
of  orange  trees  and  thousands  of  acres  of  grapes,  seeing  every  kind  of  semi- 
tropic  fruit  growing  side  by  side  with  the  more  hardy  fruits,  both  being  in  the 
greatest  profusion  and  of  the  finest  quality,  will  convince  the  traveler  from  almost 
any  part  of  the  earth  that  here  is  surely  the  paradise  of  America,  if  not  of  the  world. 

No  city  in  the  United  States  has  improved  so  rapidly  within  the  past  few  years 
as  Los  Angeles.  Since  1887  opened,  nearly  every  one  of  the  principal  business 
streets  have  been  paved  with  Belgian  blocks,  and  the  main  residence  thoroughfares 
with  concrete,  thus  making  a  drive  equal  to  any  avenue  in  the  Union  There  are  no 
improYements  which  have  been  of  more  benefit  to  Los  Angeles  than  that  of  pave- 


IN    THE    SEMI -TROPIC    ZONE.       LOS    ANGELES. 

188 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  189 

ment.  The  immense  amount  of  daily  traffic  necessitated  this  movement,  and 
there  is  scarcely  a  block  within  the  corporate  limits  which  is  not  in  proper 
condition.  Curbing  has  also  received  its  share  of  attention,  while  the  cement 
sidewalk  is  becoming  universal.  The  city  has  an  almost  perfect  sewerage 
system,  which  requires  an  outlay  of  nearly  $750,000.  Since  January  I,  1 887, 
the  Sixth  Street  Park,  bounded  by  Fifth,  Sixth,  Olive  and  Hill  streets,  has  been 
thrown  open  to  the  public,  and  is  in  keeping  with  the  many  fine  residences  that 
surround  it.  The  Second  Street  Park,  situated  near  the  terminus  of  the  cable 
line  of  railroad,  is  a  very  inviting  place,  and  receives  its  share  of  Eastern  visitors 
when  viewing  the  many  improvements  around  Los  Angeles. 

Los  Angeles  is  essentially  a  land  of  schools.  The  public,  high  and  normal 
schools  are  supported  by  State  taxation,  and  their  doors  are  open  to  all.  Besides, 
there  are  numerous  universities,  colleges  and  academies.  The  majority  of  children, 
after  obtaining  an  education  in  the  public  schools,  by  force  of  circumstances  are 
compelled  to  take  up  the  battle  of  life  for  themselves  ;  but  to  those  who  thirst  for 
deeper  draughts  at  the  fountains  of   knowledge,  the  higher  schools  await  them. 

The  University  of  Southern  California  is  under  the  auspices  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  and  was  established  by  Rev.  O.  S.  Frambes  in  1876.  In  1880 
it  was  incorporated  under  the  State  laws,  and  was  the  recipient  of  a  large  tract  of 
land  in  the  southwestern  corner. 

Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Barbara.  There  are  two  routes  by  which 
Santa  Barbara  may  be  reached  from  Los  Angeles.  One  by  water,  via  San  Pedro, 
and  the  other  by  rail,  via  Saugus.  A  pleasant  way  for  one  with  time  at  his  disposal 
is  by  water.  In  order  to  make  this  trip  the  tourist  takes  the  train  of  the  San  Pedro 
Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  at  Los  Angeles,  and  is  soon  rolling  rapidly 
along  to  the  southward  through  orange  groves  and  vineyards,  which  abound  along 
the  entire  course,  but  are  especially  noteworthy  in  the  suburbs  of  Los  Angeles. 

Florence.  This  pretty  town,  embowered  in  an  abundance  of  shrubs  and 
fruit  trees,  is  surrounded  by  well  cultivated  and  fertile  fields.  Here  the  line 
branches,  the  San  Diego  Division  extending  to  the  left.  (Population,  Soo.  Dis- 
tance from  Los  Angeles,  5  miles.     Elevation,  151  feet.) 

Comptoil.  This  is  the  largest  town  on  the  division  between  Los  Angeles 
and  San  Pedro.  It  is  in  the  heart  of  an  extremely  well  cultivated  and  productive 
fruit  belt.  Grapes,  citrus  fruits  and  berries  grow  in  great  abundance.  The 
yield  is  extraordinary  and  is  especially  true  as  to  small  fruits,  such  as  black- 
berries, strawberries,  raspberries,  etc.  (Population,  900.  Distance  from  Los 
Angeles,  10  miles.     Elevation,  76  feet.) 

Ten  miles  beyond  Compton  evidences  of  our  near  approach  to  the  grand  old 
ocean  begin  to  appear.  Salt  marshes  begin  to  make  their  appearance  and  the 
fertile  soil  gives  place  to  stretches  of  shifting  sands. 

Wilson's  College.  This  is  a  Protestant  institution  of  learning,  eighteen 
miles  distant  from  Los  Angeles,  situated  on  the  site  of  the  old  Headquarters  of  the 
United  States  Military  Department  for  Southern  California  and  Arizona,  which 
was  abandoned  about  twenty  years  ago  and  sold  to  private  parties.  About  a  mile 
beyond  the  college,  the  junction  for  Long  Beach  is  passed  and  San  Pedro  the  rail- 
road terminus  is  soon  reached. 

San  Pedro.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  harbors  between  San 
Francisco  and  San  Diego.  It  has  over  a  mile  of  docks,  with  between  eighteen 
and  twenty  feet  of  water  at  low  tide.  Ships  receive  and  unload  freight  to  and 
from  the  railroad  cars  direct,  though  from  some  ships  of  great  tonnage  the  freight 
is  taken  by  means  of  lighters.     The  government  has  improved  the  harbor  to  a  great 


190  OVER    THE    RANGE 

extent  and  the  results  have  been  fully  commensurate  with  the  expense  incurred. 
The  commerce  of  San  Pedro  is  quite  extensive,  sometimes  as  many  as  twenty 
ships  can  be  seen  riding  at  anchor,  or  tied  up  to  the  wharf  busily  engaged  in 
loading  or  unloading  freight.  Great  quantities  of  lumber  are  shipped  to  San 
Pedro  from  points  on  the  coast  as  far  as  two  hundred  miles  north  of  San  Francisco 
and  all  nations  are  represented  during  the  year  by  ships  in  this  harbor  hailing  from 
every  part  of  the  world.  Coal  comes  here  from  the  upper  coast  and  from  England 
and  in  the  case  of  English  vessels  a  cargo  of  grain  is  taken  back.  The  history  of 
San  Pedro  dates  back  to  the  earliest  settlement  of  California,  but  as  a  port  of  any 
importance  its  growth  began  less  than  ten  years  ago.  Before  that  time  it  was  merely 
an  open  roadstead  and  lighters  carried  all  freight  to  and  from  Willmington. 

Point  Fermin.  This  point  is  marked  by  a  lighthouse  of  the  first  class 
and  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  headlands  on  the  western  coast.  It  lies  to  the 
west  of  San  Pedro  and  is  reached  by  stage  road  around  the  beach,  a  distance  of  six 
miles,  or  by  boat  directly  across  the  cove. 

Santa  Catalina  Island.  This  mountainous  island  looms  up  to  the 
southwest  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles  to  sea.  The  island  has  become  a  favorite 
resort  for  excursionists  and  sportsmen.  The  trip  to  Catalina  Island  and  return  from 
San  Pedro  can  be  made  for  $2.00  and  is  well  worth  the  visit. 

San  Clemeth  Island  is  still  further  to  seaward,  faintly  outlined  against 
the  sky  at  a  distance  of  fifty  miles.  On  this  island  great  flocks  of  sheep  and 
goats  sre  allowed  to  range  at  will. 

San  Pedro  to  Santa  Barbara.  The  tourist  takes  one  of  the  steam, 
ers  which  ply  regularly  between  San  Francisco  and  San  Diego  and,  after  a  most 
enjoyable  and  interesting  trip,  finds  himself  at  Santa  Barbara,  "  The  Peerless." 

In  the  short  space  of  two  years,  from  January, 
1887,  to  January,  1889,  a  number  of  events  crowded 
together  have  practically  changed  the  entire  aspect 
of  the  city.  At  the  beginning  of  the  period,  Santa 
Barbara  was  a  quiet  country  town  of  great  possi- 
bilities, it  is  true,  but  of  very  limited  actual  im- 
portance. It  was  shut  off  from  the  rest  of  the 
world,  and  quite  contented  that  it  should  be.  No 
changes  of  great  moment  had  taken  place  in 
the  town  for  years  and  there  was  but  little  prospect  that  any  were  very 
soon  to  be  realized.  The  marvelous  advance  which  was  being  achieved 
by  the  rest  of  the  southern  part  of  the  State  showed  but  little  signs  of  appearing 
here.  People  came  and  visited  and  went  away,  but  the  idea  of  Santa  Barbara  as  a 
good  place  for  business  undertakings  or  for  investment  rarely  entered  their  heads. 
Now  after  a  brief  space  of  time,  during  which  the  natural  forces  of  American 
enterprise  and  the  genuine  merit  of  its  situation  have  been  allowed  full  play,  the 
city  of  Santa  Barbara  finds  itself  a  different  being.  Many  of  the  old  conditions 
still  remain,  some  of  the  changes  are  far  from  complete;  but  those  who  see  beneath 
the  surface  appreciate  that  there  has  suddenly  come  into  being  a  new  Santa  Barbara 
with  a  gratifying  present  and  a  splendid  future.  The  great  event  in  its  history, 
so  important  that  it  overshadows  all  the  others,  was  the  arrival  of  the  railroad. 
Since  the  Southern  Pacific  first  pushed  its  way  into  this  part  of  the  State,  it  has 
been  merely  a  question  of  time  when  it  would  enter  this  quiet  valley.  On  the  19th 
of  August,  1887,  the  event  took  place,  and  the  first  train  of  passenger  cars  entered 
the  city,  bringing  hosts  of  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  State.     A  jubilee  celebra- 


SANTA  BARBARA, 
"the  peerless." 

An  Ideal  Home  under 
Sub-Tropical  Skies. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  191 

tion  hailed  the  advent  of  the  power  that  was  to  bring  progress  and  improvement  to 
Santa  Barbara.  The  company  immediately  set  about  building  a  suitable  passenger 
station,  and  before  the  year  was  ended  the  railway  connection  had  become  in  every 
sense  an  accomplished  fact.  After  making  its  way  into  the  city,  the  road  proceeded 
along  the  coast,  passed  Goleta,  and  by  the  end  of  the  year  trains  were  running  to 
Elwood,  twelve  miles  farther  north.  The  locality  where  the  road  enters  the  city, 
was  formerly  a  sandy  desert  and  is  now  alive  with  shops,  freight  buildings  and 
cottages.  Exact  statements  with  regard  to  passenger  and  freight  traffic  are  not 
obtainable  ;  but  the  confidence  which  this  corporation  has  in  its  Santa  Barbara 
connection  is  evinced  by  its  purchase  of  more  than  three-quarters  of  a  million  dol- 
lars worth  of  property  in  and  around  this  city.  That  the  advent  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Company  to  Santa  Barbara  has  given  a  new  impetus  to  trade  and  rapid  ad- 
vancement, none  will  deny. 

Santa  Barbara  county  extends  along  the  coast  of  California  seventy  miles,  and 
is  thirty-five  miles  in  width,  and  has  a  million  and  a  half  of  acres  of  land.  It  con- 
tains a  population  of  about  30,000  and  has  made  a  gain  of  seventy-three  per  cent, 
during  the  past  seven  or  eight  years.  The  city  is  beautifully  laid  out  with  newly  ma- 
cadamized streets,  It  has  electric  lights,  lines  of  street  cars,  telephone  facilities,  and 
everything  metropolitan.  It  is  justly  termed  "  The  Newport  of  the  Pacific,"  with 
a  climate  unequalled  for  the  prolongation  of  life,  beauty  and  health. 
"  Where  the  coast  line  trending  eastward, 

Bending  eastward,  inward,  southward 

Forms  a  bay  of  wondrous  beauty, 

In  a  quiet,  peaceful  valley 

Lies  a  peaceful,  quiet  hamlet — 

Santa  Barbara  the  peerless: 

Peerless  in  her  genial  climate, 

In  her  skies  so  clear  and  cloudless ; 

Peerless  in  her  sheen  of  sunshine, 

Peerless,  having  sea  and  mountains. 

Shadowy  canons,  mystic  islands. 

Hill  and  vaJley,  grove  and  meadow." 

Malarious  diseases  are  unknown.  In  fact,  there  are  no  endemic  or  epidemic 
diseases  whatever.  The  relative  humidity  of  the  air  averages  seventy  degrees. 
The  average  rainfall  for  the  past  few  years  was  seventeen  inches.  Roses — and 
such  roses! — bloom  in  the  open  gardens,  without  shelter,  the  whole  year  round, 
without  irrigation.  The  city  of  Santa  Barbara  and  its  suburbs  contains  about 
10,000  people.  In  the  course  of  the  winter  it  is  visited  by  thousands  of  tourists 
from  the  East,  which  causes  it  to  present  a  more  metropolitan  aspect  than  many 
cities  five  times  its  size.  During  the  summer  months  come  the  visitors  from  San 
Francisco  and  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  so  that  at  no  time  in  the  year  is 
Santa  Barbara  lonesome.  Horseback-riding,  surf-bathing,  driving  among  the 
canons  and  getting  the  views  from  the  foothills,  or  merely  dreaming  away  the 
hours  in  the  calm  enjoyment  of  the  delicate  atmosphere,  the  visitors  experience  no 
difficulty  in  passing  the  time.  Santa  Barbara  has  a  future  as  interesting  as  the 
past  has  been.  It  is  probably  not  destined  to  achieve  great  commercial  import- 
ance. It  does  not  expect  to  rival  San  Francisco,  nor  compete  with  Los  Angeles 
for  the  first  place  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State.  Through  its  harbor,  which  is 
one  of  the  most  perfect  on  the  coast,  it  will  receive  a  steadily  increasing  quantity 
and  variety  of  imports ;  and  as  the  port  of  a  rich  and  productive  region,  it  must 
transact  a  considerable  amount  of  business.  But  the  true  future  of  Santa  Barbara 
lies  in  the  manifold  advantages  which  it  possesses  over  other  places  on  this  favored 
coast,  as  a  place  for  homes  and  villas.     Not  only  in  the  town  itself  but  in  the  val- 


OLD    MISSION    CHURCH    AT    SANTA   BARBARA. 


192 


TO    THE     GOLDEN'   GATE.  193 

leys  and  among  the  foothills  are  many  perfect  sites,  where,  surrounded  by  a  few 
acres,  which  a  little  care  will  transform  into  a  garden,  the  happy  proprietor  spends 
his  days  in  peace  and  calm  contentment. 

The  Old  Mission.  A  visit  to  Santa  Barbara  is  not  complete  without  a 
meditative  stroll  through  the  old  mission,  the  history  of  which  is  pleasantly  given 
by  Mr.  E.  McD.  Johnstone  in  his  delightful  book  "By  Semi-Tropic  Seas"  as 
follows:  "  This  of  Santa  Barbara  is  the  best  preserved  of  all  the  old  missions, 
and  has  had,  perhaps,  the  most  notable  history  of  any.  Its  presidio,  or  military 
garrison,  was  founded  by  Father  Junipero  Serra,  on  April  29,  1782,  but  it  was  not 
until  the  4th  day  of  December,  17S6,  on  the  celebration  of  the  feast  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara, virgin  and  martyr,  that  the  cross  was  raised  and  the  mission  founded.  A  few 
days  after,  the  Rev.  Father  Lasuen  celebrated  mass  and  preached  from  a  hut  or 
booth  made  for  the  occasion.  The  territory  under  control  of  this  mission  included 
all  the  arable  lands  from  the  'Rincon'  west  to  Point  Conception,  and  from  the 
mountains,  on  the  north,  to  the  sea.  The  greatest  prosperity  of  the  mission  was 
reached  about  1812.  The  unjust  demands  continually  made  upon  it  by  the  Spanish 
government,  and  later  by  the  Mexican,  greatly  weakened  its  resources,  and,  finally, 
by  the  secularization  act  and  the  withdrawal  of  Mexican  protection,  the  destruction 
of  this  property,  as  far  as  its  primal  object  was  concerned,  was  complete.  The 
immediate  property  of  the  mission  was  leased  in  1845.  In  1S52  it  was  organized 
into  an  independent  Franciscan  convent  or  college.  In  1885  this  college,  the 
titular  of  which  was  the  Blessed  Virgin  of  the  Seven  Dolors  of  Santa  Barbara,  was 
annexed  to  the  Province  of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus  of  the  U.  S.  A." 

By  Bail  to  Los  Ang'eles.  As  a  pleasant  variety  the  tourist  can  make 
the  return  trip  from  Santa  Barbara  to  Los  Angeles  by  rail,  taking  the  Ventura 
branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company,  which  forms  a  junction  at  Saugus  with 
the  main  line  from  San  Francisco.  Leaving  Santa  Barbara  with  a  sigh  of  regret, 
for  here,  if  anywhere,  a  man  could  live  peaceful  days,  we  pass  through  groves  of 
verdure  and  are  soon  skirting  the  ocean  with  towering  cliffs  to  the  land- 
ward, which  in  places  have  been  blasted  away  leaving  space  for  the  railroad  to  pass. 
The  scenery  is  charming  and  the  mind  is  pleasantly  engaged  until  the  train  pauses 
at  a  handsome  station  building,  which  is  the  depot  for 

Ortega.  This  is  a  town  of  expectations  and  few  buildings.  The  situation 
is  a  charming  one  and  there  seems  to  be  every  reason  to  believe  that  ere  long  a 
town  worthy  of  the  beautiful  natural  surroundings  will  be  established.  (Distance 
from  San  Francisco,  521  miles.     Elevation,  77  feet.) 

Carpinteria.  This  is  a  picturesque  little  town  surrounded  and  encroached 
upon  by  orchards  and  vineyards.  Many  of  the  residents  are  of  Spanish  origin,  as 
Carpinteria  dates  back  to  the  early  settlement  of  Southern  California  and  was 
one  of  the  original  mission  towns.  (Population,  300.  Distance  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, 517  miles.     Elevation,  8  feet.) 

San  Buenaventura.  The  city  of  San  Buenaventura,  since  the  advent 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company,  has  made  progressive  strides.  It  is  a  beautiful, 
old,  ex-Spanish  town,  with  3,000  population,  and  is  the  county  seat  of  Ventura 
county.  It  is  beautifully  located  upon  the  seashore,  just  at  the  point  where  the 
Ventura  river  breaks  through  the  sand  into  the  sea.  There  are  not  many  costly  or 
elegant  residences,  but  rather  more  than  the  usual  proportion  of  neat,  cosy  homes. 
The  same  thing  is  true  of  the  business  blocks,  and  the  town  has  its  full  comple- 
ment of  stores  and  shops  of  all  kinds.  The  streets  have  solid  concrete  walks  and 
tile  sewerage  throughout  the  town.     It  is  well  lighted  with  gas,  and  has  very 


194  OVER    THE    RANGE 

efficient  water-works.  The  hotels  are  good  and  well  patronized.  There  are  the 
usual  number  of  churches,  schools  and  fraternal  organizations.  The  town  is  lively 
and  a  large  volume  of  business  has  always  been  transacted.  The  climate  is 
delightful  and  life  here  must  be  a  continual  delight. 

"  And  oh  !  the  balmy  air  'tis  bliss  to  breathe, 

As  through  the  mountain  gap  steals  the  fresh  breeze, 
Tempering  the  fervid  summer's  noonday  heats 
With  the  gentle  breath  of  mild  Pacific  seas." 

San  Buenaventura  has  until  within  a  comparatively  recent  "date,  been,  in  a 
measure  isolated  from  the  great  centers  of  trade,  not  only  of  California  but  of  the 
world  ;  but  now  that  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  has  been  built  through  its  con- 
fines, it  has  entered  upon  an  era  of  unexampled  prosperity.  The  road  enters  the 
southeastern  part  of  the  county  by  the  way  of  Newhall,  and  extends  to  the  coast  at 
San  Buenaventura,  tapping  a  tract  of  country  that  for  fertility  cannot  be  surpassed. 
Los  Angeles  is  but  a  few  hours' ride  distant ;  and  thevaried  products  of  this  section 
find  a  ready  market.  (Population,  3,000.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  500 
miles.     Elevation,  45  feet.) 

.Fertile  Valleys.  The  great  Santa  Clara  of  the  South  is  celebrated  for 
the  fertility  of  its  soil,  mildness  of  climate,  and  healthfulness  of  its  people.  It  was 
this  valley  and  its  tributaries  that  enabled  Ventura  county  at  the  Mechanics'  Fair 
at  San  Francisco,  in  1885,  to  carry  off  the  first  premium  for  the  most  extensive  and 
varied  exhibit  of  farm  products.  The  valley  extends  nearly  east  and  west  across 
the  county,  and  is  traversed  by  the  Santa  Clara  river,  fed  by  numerous  tributaries, 
as  the  Castaic,  Piru,  Sespe  and  Santa  Paula.  At  the  upper  or  east  end  is  the  San 
Francisco  ranch,  which  includes  the  wheat-growing  ranch  of  the  Newhall  Brothers, 
and  the  Camulos  with  its  orange  and  olive  orchards,  wine-cellars  and  old  vineyards, 
made  famous  by  Mrs.  Jackson,  who  wrote  apart  of  her  celebrated  book,  "  Ramona" 
at  this  place.  San  Francisco  ranch  contains  about  12,000  acres  ;  the  Sespe  ram  h 
8,000,  well  adapted  for  citrus  and  deciduous  fruits;  the  Saticoy  Rancho,  17,00a 
acres  ;  Bardsdale,  a  2,000-acre  colony  ;  thence  southerly,  the  Colonia  rancho  of 
45,000  acres,  level  as  a  floor.  Intervening  is  the  Rancho  Santa  Clara  del  Norte, 
of  13,000  acres.  Next  there  is  the  San  Miguel  rancho,  of  5,000  acres — an  immense 
corn,  bean  and  grain  field.  When  we  have  passed  through  this  rancho,  en  route 
for  Los  Angeles,  we  are  in  the  Ex-Mission,  the  grant  upon  which  is  located  the 
beautiful  and  thriving  palm  city,  San  Buenaventura.  This  rancho  includes  about 
48,000  acres,  mostly  hill  lands,  lying  north  of  Santa  Paula  and  Saticoy.  Among 
its  hills  are  some  beautiful  tracts,  well  wooded  and  watered.  In  this  great  valley. 
the  Santa  Clara  of  the  South,  a  large  population  can  be  sustained.  Its  wonderful 
resources,  climate  and  scenery  attract  the  attention  of  home-seekers. 

The  Ojai  valley  is  a  great  amphitheater,  whose  walls  are  mountains  rising  like 
citadels  in  all  directions.  Overlooking  the  whole  is  Mt.  Topo-topa,  rising  to  a 
height  of  from  five  to  six  thousand  feet,  and  coming  out  in  springtime  from  the 
snows  of  untold  winters  as  fresh  and  beautiful  as  ever.  The  drive  to  lower  Ojai  is 
exceedingly  inviting,  being  an  easy  grade  along  a  clear,  beautiful  stream  alive 
with  trout.  In  many  places  the  road  is  arched  with  sycamore,  oak  and  other 
trees,  festooned  with  hanging  mosses  and  vines,  and  made  vocal  by  the  songs  of 
birds.  In  the  valleys  the  air  is  soft  and  balmy  as  that  of  the  island  of  Atlantis 
of  fabled  story.  They  are  the  resort  of  invalids  and  pleasure-seekers,  who  receive 
the  best  attention  and  care  at  a  very  moderate  price. 

Montalvo    is  another   prospective    city,    with   great   beauty  of  situation. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  195 

really  a  suburb  of  San  Buenaventura,  but  no  great  business  interests  at  present. 
(Distance  from  San  Francisco,  495  miles.     Elevation,  89  feet.) 

Saticoy.  This  pretty  little  town  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fruit,  grain 
and  vegetable  growing  region.  (Population,  300.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
491  miles.     Elevation,  146  feet.) 

Santa  I*aula  is  one  of  the  leading  towns  in  Ventura  county  and  is  fifty 
miles  north  of  Los  Angeles.  It  has  a  growing  population  and  is  located  in  the 
center  of  the  beautiful  Southern  Santa  Clara  valley,  which  has  the  most  productive 
soil  in  the  world,  producing  anything  that  mother  earth  can  bring  forth.  Grain, 
corn,  beans  and  tropical  fruits  are  raised  in  abundance,  and  are  unsurpassed  in 
quantity  and  quality.  There  is  one  orange  orchard  near  the  town  consisting  of 
one  hundred  acres,  which  is  the  finest  we  ever  saw. 

For  climate  and  health,  Santa  Paula  and  its  surroundings  are  unexcelled.  The 
water  supply  is  abundant  from  cooling  springs  in  the  near  mountains.  The  fine 
gardens  of  vegetation  and  flowers  ripen  and  bloom  the  whole  year  round.  In  fact, 
it  is  a  land  overflowing  with  milk,  honey — and  oil. 

Santa. Paula  is  the  headquarters  of  the  oil  regions  of  California.  The  most 
extensive  Petroleum  Oil  operations  are  on  the  Rancho  Ex-Mission,  situated  along 
the  south  side  of  Sulphur  Mountain,  beginning  about  four  miles  northwest  of  the 
town  and  extending  in  a  westerly  direction  eight  miles,  these  wells  are  owned  and 
operated  by  a  company  which  is  incorporated  with  a  capital  stock  of  $1,000,000. 
This  company  has  been  most  successful  in  its  development,  having  a  daily  produc- 
tion of  about  1,000  barrels  from  the  many  wells  and  tunnels.  The  region  is  a  net- 
work of  pipe  lines  conveying  the  oil  to  Santa  Paula,  Ventura  and  Hueneme.  The 
largest  well  produces  about  300  barrels  daily.  The  next  most  extensive  oil  develop- 
ments in  this  region  are  located  at  the  Sespe,  owned  and  operated  by  the  Sespe 
Oil  Company,  with  its  office  at  Santa  Paula.  The  company  has  a  capital  stock  of 
$250,000.  The  production  of  the  region  is  about  275  barrels  daily,  which  is 
piped  to  Santa  Paula.  These  two  companies  keep  a  large  force  of  men  constantly 
engaged  in  drilling  new  wells,  and  thus  the  production  is  being  constantly 
augmented.  No  industry  in  the  Golden  State  promises  better  results  than 
its  oil  developments,  and  nothing  is  more  beneficial  to  Ventura  county,  and  to 
Santa  Paula  in  particular.  With  an  abundance  of  cheap  petroleum  for  fuel. 
no  section  offers  better  advantages  for  manufacturing  purposes.  (Population, 
1,200.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  4S3  miles.     Elevation.  286  feet.) 

CamilloS.  This  picturesque  hamlet  has  been  made  known  to  the  world  of 
book  readers  as  the  home  of  "  Ramona."  The  scenery  surrounding  it  is  of  the  most 
attractive  character.  The  San  Fernando  mountains  are  on  the  south,  the  foot-hills 
of  the  Sierra  de  San  Rafael  on  the  north,  the  Santa  Clara  river  flows  through 
the  sylvan  valley  that  lies  between.  On  its  margins  are  clumps  of  willows  and 
groves  of  wide-spreading  sycamores,  and  near  where  its  clear  waters  run  by  the  old 
homestead,  may  be  seen  the  "  artichoke  patch,"  and  the  "flat  stone  washboards, 
on  which  was  done  all  the  family  washing."  The  house,  as  described  by  Mrs. 
Jackson,  was  "one  of  the  best  specimens  to  be  found  in  California  of  the  repre- 
sentative house  of  the  half  barbaric,  half-elegant,  wholly  generous  and  free-handed 
life  led  there  by  Mexican  men  and  women  of  degree  in  the  early  part  of  this  cen- 
tury." The  foothill  pasture  lands,  the  sheep  corrals,  the  vineyards,  olive  groves 
and  orchards,  the  old  Chapel,  etc  ,  etc.,  are  all  to  be  seen  quite  as  really  as  they 
are  described  in  this  interesting  book.  Mrs.  Jackson's  descriptions  of  Southern 
California  scenery  are  exceedingly  fine,  and  it  is  not  a  matter  of  wonder  that  she 
chose  this  beautiful  spot  as  the  home  of  her  charming  Ramona.     Camulos  presents 


OVER    THE    RANGE 

opportunities  for  the  establishment  of  ideal  homes  in  the  heart  of  ideal  scenery. 
(Population,  150.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  463  miles.     Elevation,  286  feet.) 
SaugUS.     Junction    of   the   Ventura    Branch    with    the    main   line.     Our 
journey  from  here  to  Los  Angeles  has  already  been  described. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego.  The  trip  from  Los  Angeles  to 
San  Diego  abounds  in  interest  and  if  one  obeyed  one's  inclinations  and  made  a 
stop  at  all  the  attractive  stations  which  intervene  between  the  inland  city  and  the 
city  on  the  ocean  side  it  would  take  an  entire  vacation  to  accomplish  the  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty-nine  miles  of  the  journey.  Leaving  Los  Angeles  on  the  Southern 
California  Railway  at  a  comfortable  hour  in  the  morning,  we  are  soon  speeding 
through  the  suburbs  of  the  City  of  Angels.  It  is  difficult  for  us  to  tell  just  when  we 
have  passed  beyond  the  confines  of  the  city,  because  the  country  is  so  fully  occu- 
pied by  handsome  villa  residences  and  the  suburban  stations  are  of  such  frequent 
occurrence  that  one  is  puzzled  to  determine  where  the  town  ends  and  the  country 
begins.  Downey  Avenue,  Morgan,  Highland  Park,  Gravanzo,  Lincoln  Park, 
South  Pasadena,  Raymond,  Pasadena,  Olivewood,  Fair  Oaks  and  Lamanda  Park 
are  all  busy  stations  disposed  within  a  distance  of  thirteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 
It  is  therefore  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  traveler  is  confused  and  at  a  loss  to 
know  just  when  he  is  "out  of  town."  Beyond  Lamanda  Park  the  stretches  of 
open  country  between  stations  begin  to  widen  and  one  can  look  out  of  the  window 
at  least  twice  before  another  town  appears  in  view. 

Raymond.  As  this  station  is  approached  one  sees  on  the  right  an  aspiring 
hill  adorned  with  handsome  lawns,  ornamental  shrubbery,  trailing  vines  and  um- 
brageous trees.  The  summit  of  this  hill  is  crowned  by  a  massive  and  stately  edifice 
that  at  once  attracts  attention  and  excites  curiosity.  On  inquiry  we  learn  that  this 
is  the  Hotel  Raymond  and  that  here  are  entertained  the  hundreds  of  guests 
brought  hither  by  the  well  known  excursion  managers,  Messrs.  Raymond  and 
Whitcomb.  This,  however,  forms  but  a  small  part  of  the  patronage  of  the  Hotel 
Raymond,  for  from  its  excellent  management,  beautiful  situation  and  healthful 
location  the  hotel  has  become  exceedingly  popular.  Of  course  there  is  a  town-site 
here  and,  what  is  not  always  the  case  in  this  country  of  town-sites,  there  is  a  town 
as  well,  with  the  prospects  of  a  city. 

Soutll  Pasadena  is  a  flourishing  suburb  of  Pasadena  and  will  soon  be  so 
merged  into  the  parent  town  that  they  will  be  practically  one  and  the  same  city. 

One  of  the  loveliest  towns  in  the  world  lies 
before  us  as  we  enter  Pasadena.  From  a  sheep 
range  in  1873  to  the  paradise  of  fruits  and  flowers 
and  verdure  which  greets  our  eyes  to  day  is  a  magic 
transformation.  Yet  such,  in  a  word,  is  the  history 
of  Pasadena.  The  semi-tropical  luxuriance  of  floral 
and  arboreal  growth  which  delights  us  here  has 
sprung  into  existence  within  the  marvelously  short 
space  of  a  decade  and  a  half,  and,  nestling  here 
among  the  orange  groves  and  fruiting  vineyards,  is 
a  city  whose  beauty  of  architecture  is  a  glowing  testimonial  to  the  good  taste, 
wealth  and  liberality  of  its  residents.  I  know  of  no  pleasanter  or  more  interesting 
drives  than  those  which  may  be  taken  along  the  broad  tree-lined  avenues  of  Pasa- 
dena. Within  spacious  enclosures  on  each  hand  may  be  seen  elegant  villa  resi- 
dences or  splendid  mansions  surrounded  by  ornamental  grounds  of  the  greatest 
beauty.  Palm  trees,  magnolias,  century  plants,  fig  trees,  ancient  live  oaks,  sur- 
vivals of  the  days  when  this  was  only  grazing  ground  for  flocks  and  herds,  pepper 


PASADENA. 

An  Orchard  City. 
Beautiful  for  Situation. 

A  Delightful 

Health  and  Pleasure 

Resort. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


197 


trees,  blue  gums  and  an  infinite  variety  of  ornamental  shrubbery,  make  these 
drives  entirely  novel,  interesting  and  charming.  The  city  obtains  an  abundant 
supply  of  water  from  the  Arroyo  Seco  Canon  and  the  results  of  irrigation  confront 
one  in  the  wonderful  groves  of  citrus  and  deciduous  trees.  Pasadena  has  a  round 
dozen  of  churches,  representing  an  expenditure  of  nearly  half  a  million  dollars.  It 
has  business  blocks  of  metropolitan  proportions,  spacious  and  elegant  theatres, 


NEAR    SAN    GABRIEL    AND    PASADENA. 


four  banks,  a  score  of  hotels,  large  manufacturing  establishments,  canning  factories, 
horse  car  lines,  telephone  system,  electric  lights,—  in  short,  all  of  the  modern  con. 
veniences.  As  a  place  of  residence  we  know  of  no  more  charming  city  than 
Pasadena,  whose  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants  have  every  reason  to  congratulate 
themselves  that  their  lines  have  fallen  in  such  pleaeant  places.  The  wonderful  cli- 
mate of  Pasadena  is  one  of  its  chief  attractions.    Tourists  who  arrive  in  November 


198  OVER    THE    RANGE 

or  October  are  constantly  on  the  watch  for  winter.  Finally  a  rain  storm  comes, 
drenching  the  earth,  and  a  few  weeks  later  the  ground  the  length  and  breadth  of 
the  land  is  carpeted  with  flowers,  form  succeeding  form,  until  color  and  variety, 
tint  and  hue,  seem  to  have  run  riot  ;  by  this  token  you  may  know  that  the  winter 
has  come.  The  tops  of  the  Sierras  are  clothed  with  snow,  so  near  that  you  can 
see  the  snow  blown  high  in  air  by  the  mountain's  blizzard,  so  near  that  in  two 
hours'  ride  you  can  go  snow-balling  or  tobogganing,  yet  here  at  Pasadena  the 
ground  is  white  with  the  blossoms  of  the  orange,  there  is  a  carnival  of  flowers  in 
every  dooryard,  and  to  the  student  who  arranges  his  plants  according  to  their  alti- 
tudinal  horizons,  it  is  a  puzzle.  Here,  in  the  same  latitude  as  Wilmington,  N.  C, 
we  find  the  banana,  fig,  pomegranate,  guava,  alligator  pear,  cocoanut,  the  fan 
palm,  sago  palm,  cactus,  the  yucca,  century  plant,  cork  tree,  the  rubber  tree,  the 
olive,  orange,  lime,  lemon,  and  a  host  of  other  tropical  forms,  yet  it  can  not  be  a 
tropical  climate,  as  side  by  side  with  these  is  seen  every  pine  known  from  Norfolk 
Island  to  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  firs,  spruces  ;  and  as  for  fruits,  we  see  the 
apple,  pear,  peach,  apricot,  plum,  nectarine,  all  the  small  fruits,  everything  found 
in  the  gardens  of  New  York  State. 

The  seasons  are  difficult  to  understand.  The  summer  mean  temperature  at 
Pasadena  is  66.61  degrees  ;  that  of  Mentone  in  the  Riviera,  73  degrees  ;  of  Jack- 
sonville, Fla.,  81  degrees  ;  of  New  York,  about  73  degrees.  Thus  it  will  be  seen 
Pasadena  can  not  have  remarkably  warm  weather.  The  summer,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  one  or  two  days,  is  not  unpleasantly  warm,  and  it  is  always  pleasant 
and  comfortable  in  the  shade,  while  every  night  is  sufficiently  cool  to  require  a 
blanket.  Not  a  case  of  prostration  from  heat,  not  a  squall  or  wind  storm,  seldom 
a  thunder-clap  or  sign  of  lightning,  and  hardly  a  cloud  in  the  sky  ;  this  is  the 
record  of  the  summer  here.  Every  day  is  a  pleasant  one,  and  such  heat  as  is 
experienced  in  New  York  City  in  the  summer  is  never  felt. 

Three  hundred  and  forty  days  out  of  the  year  will  permit  of  continuous  out-of- 
door  life  in  the  open  sunlight,  and  at  least  half  of  the  others  may  be  enjoyed. 
This  is  the  great  secret.  The  country  is  the  land  of  the  open  air,  winter  and  sum- 
mer, and  the  conditions  of  altitude  and  nearness  to  large  cities  allowing  of  all  the 
luxuries  and  comforts,  add  to  its  attractions. 

Lamanda  Park.  We  wish  to  do  the  tourist  who  reads  this  book  a  good 
turn,  having  his  comfort  and  enjoyment  at  heart  ;  therefore  we  advise  him  to  stop 
at  Lamanda  Park  and  make  his  headquarters  for  a  day,  or  a  week,  or  a  fortnight, 
in  this  delightful  spot.  In  the  first  place  one  can  find  here  a  home-like  and  com- 
fortable hotel ;  in  the  second  place,  this  is  an  excellent  point  from  which  to  make 
radiating  trips  through  the  charming  San  Gabriel  Valley  or  among  the  foot-hills 
and  up  the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains.  Within  an  hour's  drive 
are  Sierra  Madre  Villa,  the  famous  Rose  Vineyards,  Baldwin's  ranch,  where,  be- 
sides miles  of  orange  avenues  are  to  be  found,  at  Santa  Anita,  the  stables  made 
famous  by  the  fast  horses  owned  by  the  "  bonanza  king."  Orange  orchards,  ave- 
nues of  English  walnut  trees,  lemon  groves,  vineyards,  veritable  forests  of  decidu- 
ous fruit  trees  and  a  tropic  luxuriance  of  splendid  floral  beauties  surround  this 
place,  which,  though  modest  in  size,  is  as  we  have  said,  a  charming  resting  spot 
and  a  most  convenient  point  from  which  to  radiate  in  all  directions  and  view  either 
the  grandeur  of  the  mountains  or  the  more  quiet  but  none  the  less  attractive  beau- 
ties of  the  valley. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  199 


SIERRA  MADRE  VILLA 

An  Ideal  Pleasure 

and 

Health  Resort. 

In  the  Heart  of  Orange 

Groves,  on  the 

Slope  of  the  Sierra 

Madre  Mountains. 


The  fame  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Villa  is  world- 
wide. On  its  shaded  verandas  congregate  daily  the 
most  cultivated  and  intelligent  people.  ,  It  is  not 
always  the  same  company  that  gathers  here,  but 
it  is  always  a  company  which  it  gives  pleasure  for 
one  to  meet.  The  class  of  guests  is  of  the  best, 
because  the  reputation  of  the  Villa  naturally  attracts 
that  class.  This  ideal  pleasure  and  health  resort  is 
located  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  Sierra  Madre 
Mountains,  fourteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  This  elevation  gives  it  complete  im- 
munity from  the  fogs  of  the  sea  and  valley,  and 
also  gives  a  view  of  the  most  wide-horizoned  beauty. 
Here  we  are  only  fourteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  far  enough  away  to  escape  the 
turmoil  of  the  city,  and  near  enough  to  enjoy  all  of  its  advantages.  Theatre  trains 
are  run  three  or  four  nights  each  week,  and  one  can  go  to  Los  Angeles  by  train 
at  almost  any  hour  in  the  day.  The  Southern  California  Rai'road  passes  within  a 
mile  and  a  half  of  the  villa,  Lamanda  Park  being  the  station.  The  views  from 
the  Villa  overlooking  the  beautiful  San  Gabriel  Valley,  are  a  glorious  panorama  of 
rugged  mountain  ranges,  extensive  orange  groves — in  one  of  which  the  Villa 
stands — vineyards,  and  the  distant  ocean  with  its  shadowy  islands.  Here  is, 
indeed,  an  ideal  home,  with  good  food  skillfully  prepared,  pure  air  and  sparkling 
mountain  water.  With  all  these  essentials  for  health,  comfort  and  luxury,  the 
tourist  can  not  fail  to  enjoy  his  sojourn  here.  The  fame  of  the  Villa  for  its  beautiful 
and  healthful  location,  and  superior  accommodations,  with  all  modern  improve- 
ments for  over  one  hundred  guests,  has  become  international.  There  are  fine 
suites  of  sunny  rooms,  broad  verandas,  inclosed  with  glass  to  keep  out  chilly  air 
if  desired,  a  beautiful  lawn,  flowers,  etc.,  and  the  most  genial  climate  under  the 
sun.  Good  roads  and  a  beautiful  drive  from  Los  Angeles  to  the  Villa.  Eight  trains 
daily  leave  Los  Angeles  from  First  street  depot,  all  stopping  at  Lamanda  Park, 
where  the  stage  from  the  Villa  meets  all  trains. 

The  San  Gabriel  Valley.  The  remarkable  growth  of  the  San  Gabriel 
Valley  of  Southern  California  may  be  traced  to  a  single  imperishable  feature  —  its 
climate.  Towns  and  cities  have  appeared  like  magic;  not  the  mushroom  growth 
one  expects  and  finds  where  a  mining  excitement  has  been  the  magnet,  but  towns 
which  in  completeness,  architectural  beauty,  taste  and  culture  of  the  people,  wih 
equal  many  in  the  East  dating  back  fifty  years  or  more.  Ten  years  ago  the  San 
Gabriel  Valley  was,  comparatively  speaking,  unoccupied.  Several  small  towns,  as 
Duarte,  San  Gabriel,  Puente,  were  the  chief  centres,  and  the  entire  land  was  cut 
up  into  large  holdings  or  ranches.  To-day  we  find  towns  by  the  dozen  larger  than 
these  pioneers,  three  lines  of  transcontinental  railway,  and  one  city,  Pasadena, 
with  a  summer  or  permanent  population  of  fifteen  thousand  persons,  and  a  winter 
one  ranging  from  twenty  thousand  to  forty  thousand.  The  San  Gabriel  Valley  is 
about  ten  miles  wide  and  thirty  miles  long.  Upon  the  north  are  the  California 
Maritime  Alps  —  the  Sierra  Madre  range  —  rising  directly  from  the  plains  in  a 
series  of  parallel  ridges,  in  peaks  from  four  thousand  to  fourteen  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea.  To  the  west,  spurs  of  the  main  range,  the  Sierra  Santa  Monica,  the 
San  Rafael  and  the  Verdugo  Mountains  form  a  protective  boundary,  while  to  the 
south  the  Puente  Hills  rise,  beyond  which,  faintly  visible,  twenty-five  miles  away,  is 
the  Pacific.  The  Valley  is  therefore  completely  environed  on  all  sides,  having  abso- 
lute protection  from  prevailing  winds  from  the  north,  in  this  respect  again  resem- 


200  OVER    THE    RANGE 

bling  the  Riviera  of  Europe.  The  presence  of  these  mountains  and  canons  rising 
so  abruptly  from  the  valley  gives  to  the  locality  a  scenic  charm  difficult  to  describe, 
and  for  its  peculiar  charm  the  view  of  the  Sierra  Madre  range  at  Pasadena  is  un- 
equaled  in  this  country. 

Monrovia.  This  handsome  little  city  has  been  christened  by  its  admirers 
"The  Gem  of  the  Foot-hills,"  and,  in  fact,  there  is  quite  as  much  truth  as  poetry 
in  the  title.  It  has  a  most  attractive  site,  commanding  a  comprehensive  view  of 
the  San  Gabriel  Valley  to  the  front,  while  the  background  is  filled  in  with  the  mass- 
ive range  of  the  Sierra  Madre  mountains.  The  town  has  two  lines  of  street  railway 
and  a  motor  line  to  Los  Angeles.  It  possesses  an  elegant  and  costly  hotel,  fur- 
nished with  all  the  modern  improvements,  handsome  school-houses,  first-class 
business  blocks,  fine  private  residences,  and  no  saloons. 

Duarte.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  settlements  of  the  Valley  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  country  of  great  productiveness.  Farming  is  a  considerable  in- 
dustry and  great  quantities  of  corn  and  alfaifa,  in  addition  to  fruit,  are  raised. 

Azusa  is  near  the  upper  end  of  the  San  Gabriel  Valley  and  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  great  ranch  from  which  it  takes  its  name.  The  stations  now  foilow  in  quick 
succession  until  San  Bernardino  is  reached.  In  fact  the  train  never  makes  more 
than  four  miles  advance  without  either  stopping  at  a  station  or  passing  through 
one.  To  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  frequent  occurrence  of  these  towns  we 
append  a  list,  with  the  distance  of  each  from  Los  Angeles :  Glendora,  27  ;  San 
Dimas,  31  :  Lordsburg,  34;  North  Pomona,  35  ;  Claremont,  36;  North  Ontario, 
41  ;  North  Cocamonga,  45  ;  Etiwanda,  47  ;  Rialto,  57,  and  San  Bernardino,  60. 
One  of  the  most  marvelous  things  connected  with  this  journey  of  sixty  miles  from 
Los  Angeles  to  San  Bernardino,  aside  from  the  marvels  of  nature,  is  that  for  an 
average  of  every  three  miles  .of  the  journey  there  is  a  station  and  that  at  many  of 
these  stations  there  are  considerable  towns  and  at  several  of  them  thriving  cities. 

At  San  Bernardino  we  stop  for  dinner  and 
change  cars,  taking  the  Southern  California  Rail- 
road for  San  Diego*.  The  station  is  a  large  and 
spacious  building,  admirably  fitted  for  the  purposes 
to  which  it  is  dedicated.  The  city  of  San  Bernar- 
dino lies  in  a  most  beautiful  and  fertile  valley.  The 
county  embraces  23,476  square  miles,  and  contains 
not  only  some  of  the  finest  farming  land,  citrus  and 
deciduous  fruits  of  countless  varieties,  but  also  rich 
mines,  and  many  mineral  springs  and  health  resorts. 


SAN  BERNARDINO, 

Manufacturing 
and  Mercantile  Centre. 

A  Beautiful  Residence 
City. 


The  scenery  is  magnificent  and  varied,  the  mountains  abound  in  timber,  and  game 
is  plentiful.  The  climate  is  superb  and  invigorating.  The  city  of  San  Bernardino 
is  situated  in  the  centre  of  a  valley  one  mile  square  and  has  a  population  of  10,000, 
and  is  rapidly  increasing  in  size  and  wealth.  Among  other  notable  buildings  are 
the  finest  brick  grammar  school  in  Southern  California,  a  court-house  which  cost 
$40,000;  the  Stewart  Hotel,  costing  $125,000;  an  opera  house,  an  excellent 
hospital,  and  churches  of  all  denominations.  There  is  an  abundance  of  artesian 
water.  Three  lines  of  railroads  cross  the  county— the  Southern  Pacific,  through 
Los  Angeles  and  Colton,  to  Yuma  and  Arizona,  and  the  Southern  California  from 
San  Diego,  through  San  Bernardino  to  Barstow,  where  it  connects  with  the 
Atlantic  &  Pacific  ;  and  the  Southern  California  Railroad,  which  runs  on  a 
straight  line  between  the  two  cities.  There  is  also  the  Valley  Railroad,  from  the 
city  to  Gladysta,  Lugonia,  Redlands  and  Mentone,  to  the  west  line  of  High  View. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  201 

A  motor  road  also  runs  continuously  between  this  city  and  Colton,  a  distance  of 
three  miles,  and  the  San  Bernardino  &  Redlands  Motor  Road  to  Redlands  and 
Lugonia,  via  Victoria  and  Old  San  Bernardino  orange  groves.  Also  the  San  Ber- 
nardino &  Arrowhead  Narrow  Gauge  to  Arrowhead  Hot  Springs.  Street  cars  are 
running  to  all  parts  of  the  city.  Building  material  is  abundant  and  cheap.  Among 
the  varied  products  that  attain  perfection  here  we  may  mention  oranges,  raisins, 
wines,  fruits  and  flowers  of  all  kinds,  alfalfa,  corn  and  barley,  while  gold,  silver 
and  borax  are  found  in  large  quantities  in  the  near  mountain  ranges. 

A  Fertile  Valley.  The  county  of  San  Bernardino  is  the  largest  in  Cali- 
fornia, and  includes  within  its  limits  the  valley  of  the  same  name.  It  contains 
much  land  which  is  now  lying  fallow,  but  which  will  in  time  be  irrigated  and 
made  very  productive.  In  its  southwest  corner  are  several  large  valleys  well  irri- 
gated and  of  unusual  fertility.  Within  them  are  long  stretches  of  almost  level 
plains,  from  which  the  gently  undulating  mesas  gradually  rise  until  they  reach  the 
foothills.  The  lower  level  lands  are  sufficiently  moist  to  grow  alfalfa,  corn  and 
vegetables,  without  irrigation;  and  the  soil  is  mainly  a  black  sandy  loam.  The 
higher  lands  become  more  sandy,  while  the  foothills  contain  the  gravel  washings 
from  the  mountains.  These  higher  lands  grow  vines  and  deciduous  fruits  with  the 
natural  moisture;  oranges  and  lemons  alone  require  artificial  irrigation.  The 
higher  lands  are  better  for  deciduous  fruits,  the  mesas  or  table-lands  for  citrus 
fruits,  the  lower  lands  for  vegetables  and  general  farming.  There  are  some  im- 
mense vineyards  in  the  country,  and  a  vast  quantity  of  excellent  wine  is  made. 
After  a  barley  crop  is  harvested,  it  is  succeeded  on  the  damp  or  irrigated  lands  by 
a  crop  of  corn.  Alfalfa  yields  well  and  is  cut  from  three  to  seven  times  in  the 
season.  About  two  tons  are  taken  off  each  acre  at  a  cutting.  The  heavy  black 
loam  of  the  mountain  sides  grows  exceptionally  fine  potatoes.  Vegetables  and 
edible  roots  of  all  kinds  attain  an  enormous  growth  in  the  valley.  Besides  the 
semi-tropical  fruits,  all  those  of  more  northern  latitudes  can  be  raised.  These  val- 
leys surpass  any  others  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State  in  the  matter  of  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  water  for  irrigating  purposes.  The  Chino  Ranch  and  Ontario  lands 
are  in  this  county. 

Colton.  This  live  town  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Southern  California  and 
the  Southern  Pacific  railroads,  and  an  unusually  handsome  station  and  large  hotel 
are  to  be  seen  here.  The  town  is  only  four  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  and  the 
time  is  not  far  distant  when  they  will  be  one  city.  The  citizens  of  Colton  are  en- 
terprising and  liberal,  and  as  a  result  the  town  is  making  rapid  and  large  improve 
ment.  Canning  factories  are  established  here,  and  the  shipments  of  prepared  fruit 
and  fruit  in  its  natural  state  are  something  extraordinary.  The  surrounding  coun- 
try is  of  unsurpassed  fertility,  and  a  drive  of  half  a  day  through  the  never-ending 
groves  of  orange  trees  and  in  the  midst  of  most  entrancing  scenery  will  convince 
one  that  Colton  has  every  requisite  for  becoming  a  large  and  flourishing  city.  It 
is  surely  a  most  delightful  place  of  residence. 

Fast  Riverside  is  the  station  for  Riverside,  reached  by  a  branch  line. 

South  Riverside,  on  the  Southern  California  Railway,  15  miles  southwest 
of  Riverside,  is  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its  situation  and  the  symmetry  of  its 
design.  The  projectors  of  this  delightful  town  had  original  ideas  and  the  town- 
site  is  exactly  circular  in  form.  Fruit  raising  is  one  of  the  leading  industries, 
while  manufacturing  is  receiving  a  great  deal  of  attention  and  has  already  been 
firmly  established  here. 


VIEW    IN     SAN    ANTONIO    CAMpN,       ONTARIO,    CAL. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GA  TE.  203 


RIVERSIDE. 

The  Orange  Grove  City 

of 

Southern  California. 


Washington  has  been  wittily  denominated  "  the 
city  of  magnificent  distances,"  but  here  in  Southern 
California  we  have  found  a  city  equally  as  deserv- 
ing of  that  characterization.  Riverside  manages  to 
cover  twenty-five  thousand  acres,  and  this  great 
extent  of  territory  has  upon  it  between  three  and 
four  thousand  inhabitants.  But  did  ever  anyone 
behold  a  more  beautiful  sight  than  this  orchard  city,  reclining  in  the  midst 
of  orange  groves,  its  magnificent  avenues  lined  with  ornamental  trees,  among 
which  the  oriental  palm  is  most  conspicuous,  its  artistic  villa  residences  surrounded 
with  grounds  in  which  the  care  of  the  landscape  gardener,  can  be  seen,  its 
fine  business  blocks  of  brick  and  stone,  its  handsome  hotels  and  its  surrounding 
vineyards  making  it  a  perfect  bower  of  beauty. 

Resuming  our  journey  on  the  main  line  from  East  Riverside,  we  pass  through 
Box  Springs,  Alessandro  and  Perris,  which  latter  place  is  situated  on  the  San  Jacinto 
River,  which  empties  in  Lake  Elsinore,  some  twelve  miles  farther  on.  The  country 
has  become  more  rugged,  for  we  are  now  skirting  the  San  Jacinto  hills.  We  pass 
through  deep  cuts  and  around  projecting  spurs,  and  finally  enter  a  very  pretty 
canon,  emerging  from  which  we  pause  at  Elsinore  on  the  margin  of 

Lake  Elsinore.  This  is  a  lovely  little  sheet  of  water,  cradled  in  the 
highlands,  with  a  bold  mountain  range  to  the  west.  The  lake  is  four  miles  long 
and  about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  forms  a  charming  feature  in  the  landscape. 

Wildomar.  At  the  foot  of  Elsinore  Lake  is  Wildomar.  This  town  has  a 
very  picturesque  situation,  and  considerable  expense  has  been  incurred  in  planting 
trees,  grading  the  streets,  and  bringing  water  in  pipes  from  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains. It  has  schools,  churches,  good  business  houses,  and  a  population  of  about 
two  hundred. 

Murietta.  This  is  a  regular  meal  station,  and  on  that  account  is  of  inter- 
est to  the  traveler.  It  is  situated  on  the  Margurita  ranch,  which  comprises 
208,000  acres  of  land,  especially  and  solely  adapted  for  grazing.  San  Margurita 
Creek  flows  through  the  town,  and  the  railroad  follows  this  stream  for  thirty  seven 
miles,  and  then,  over  the  brow  of  a  rolling  mesa  to  our  right,  the  great  Pacific 
Ocean  bursts  on  our  view. 

Ocean  Side.  This  thriving  town  of  a  thousand  inhabitants  has  a  com- 
manding situation  on  a  mesa  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  From 
this  point  of  view  the  coast  line  can  be  followed  in  either  direction  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.  Here  there  is  one  of  the  finest  hotels  (The  South  Pacific)  on  the  coast, 
and  here  great  improvements  have  been  inaugurated  by  the  enterprising  citizens. 
The  accommodations  for  sea  bathing  are  most  complete,  and  Ocean  Side-is  sure  to 
become  an  exceedingly  popular  pleasure  resort.  Between  Ocean  Side  and  San 
Diego,  a  distance  of  forty-seven  miles,  there  are  just  a  "baker's  dozen  "  of  sta- 
tions. At  some  of  them  one  can  see  hotels  of  the  most  imposing  size  and  beautiful 
architecture,  a  house  or  two,  and  thousands  of  lot  stakes,  but  no  great  showing  of 
business  or  population.  The  stations  occur  in  the  following  order  :  Carlsbad, 
Leucadia,  Encinitas,  Del  Mar,  Cardero,  Sorrento  Alpine  Selwyn,  La  Jolla, 
Roses  Siding,  Morena  and  Old  Town. 


204 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  205 


SAN    DIEGO. 

The  Naples  of 

the   New   World. 

The  Great  Bay  City  of 

Southern  California. 


The  magnificent  natural  advantages  of  San 
Diego  cannot  fail  to  make  this  the  great  city  of 
Southern  California.  It  lies  upon  a  slope  facing 
San  Diego  Bay.  This  slope  extends  back  perhaps 
an  average  mile,  where  it  reaches  an  altitude  of  200 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  from  which 
point  the  country  extends  back  in  a  broad,  rolling 
mesa.  With  such  a  slope,  and  with  such  an  ascend- 
ing altitude,  opportunities  are  offered  for  the  most 
wide-sweeping  and  magnificent  views.  At  the  foot 
of  the  city  lies  the  land-locked  bay,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world,  glistening 
like  a  sheet  of  silver  in  the  genial  rays  of  an  unclouded  sun.  Between  the  bay 
and  the  ocean  is  the  Coronado  peninsula,  on  the  expanded  part  of  which  is  the 
town  of  Coronado,  with  the  largest  hotel  in  the  world.  Beyond  Coronado  is  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  whose  long,  rolling  swells  break  upon  a  level  and  far-extending 
beach,  their  combining  crests  breaking  into  snow-white  foam  as  they  fall  with 
majestic  regularity  upon  the  shining  sands.  The  distant  background  is  formed  by 
the  mountains,  with  the  Jamul,  old  San  Miguel  and  El  Cajon  standing  well 
forward,  the  advance  guard  of  an  army  of  giants.  To  the  right  is  the  receding 
mesa;  to  the  left  the  table  lands  and  mountains  of  Old  Mexico.  The  landscape  in 
garb  of  varying  green,  the  bay  and  ocean  with  their  ever-changing  shades  from 
shining  silver  to  deep,  dark  blue,  form  a  picture  of  such  entrancing  beauty  that 
neither  pen  nor  pencil  can  adequately  depict.  With  such  natural  attractions,  to 
which  should  be  added  the  attractions  of  climate,  it  is  not  a  matter  of  wonder  that 
the  population  of  San  Diego  has  increased  rapidly  since  overland  transportation 
facilities  have  been  provided.  The  city's  population  in  November,  1885,  was  but 
the  population  of  a  healthy  village,  say  about  four  thousand;  a  year  later  saw  it 
advance  to  a  city  of  between  ten  and  twelve  thousand;  and  by  November,  1887, 
the  population  had  doubled  again,  and  reached  a  total  of  twenty-five  thousand 
souls.  The  increase  since  has  been  steady,  and  the  common  but  conservative 
estimate  of  the  population  to-day  is  thirty  thousand.  The  character  of  the  popula- 
tion is  truly  American.  Because  to  the  Eastern  mind  San  Diego  is  "away  in  the 
West,"  the  impression  prevails  with  some  that  its  population  is  of  that  western 
character  to  be  found  in  romance  of  the  light  order.  A  greater  mistake  could  not 
be  imagined.  San  Diego  is  as  typical  an  American  city  as  any  to  be  found  in  the 
land  of  Americans.  If  the  influence  of  any  one  city  may  be  said  to  prevail  here, 
it  is  the  influence  of  the  City  of  Boston;  and  there  is  reason  for  it.  The  Sante  Fe 
Railroad,  whose  western  terminus  is  at  this  harbor,  is  an  institution  maintained  by 
Boston  men  and  Boston  capital.  This  has  naturally  created  in  Boston  a  financial, 
ind  finally  a  social,  interest  in  San  Diego,  which  has  resulted  in  the  transplant- 
ing of  many  Boston  men  and  women  from  the  metropolis  of  New  England  to  the 
new  city  by  the  sunset  sea.  They  have  found  here  a  genial,  social  climate.  In  a 
city  covering  as  much  ground  as  does  San  Diego,  the  matter  of  transportation  is  of 
first  importance.  Thus  has  been  looked  after  by  the  enterprising  citizens.  Horse 
cars,  steam  motors,  electric  motors  and  cable  systems  supply  the  needs  of  the  in- 
habitants. The  San  Diego  Street  Car  Company  has  in  operation  twelve  and  one-half 
miles  of  horse-car  lines.  The  Coronado  Railroad  Company  has  in  operation  twenty- 
eight  miles  of  suburban  steam  motor  lines.  The  Electric  Rapid  Transit  Company 
controls  about  six  miles  of  road,  and  is  rapidly  extending  its  lines,  which,  under  the 
Henry  Electric  System,  are  being  operated  with  great  success.    The  National  City 


206 


OVER    THE   RANGE 


SAN   DIEGO   BAY. 

A  Thing  of  Beauty 

and  a 

Great  Commercial 

Factor. 


C.  P. 


&  Otay  Railway  Company  have  twenty-nine  miles  of  steam  motor  lines  and  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  of  horse-car  line  under  operation.  These  lines  centre  in  the  city, 
and  afford  frequent  and  rapid  communication  to  all  parts  and  to  the  suburban 
towns  and  valleys. 

The  bay  of  San  Diego  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  the  world;  it  is  also  a  great  factor  in  the 
success  of  the  city.  There  are  larger  harbors  than 
this,  but  for  the  uses  to  which  harbors  are  devoted, 
there  are  none  better  anywhere  than  that  of  San 
Diego,  and  it  is  large  enough  to  afford  a  safe  refuge 
for  the  entire  merchant  fleet  of  the  United  States. 
The  bay  is  thirteen  miles  long,  and  the  total  area 
of  water  is  twenty-two  square  miles.  Commodore 
Patterson,  Superintendent  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  wrote  in  1878: 
"I  have  crossed  this  bar  at  all  hours,  both  day  and  night,  with  steamers  of 
from  1,000  to  3,000  tons  burden,  during  all  seasons  of  the  year,  for  several  years, 
without  detention.  It  is  the  only  land-locked  harbor  south  of  San  Francisco  and 
north  of  San  Quintin,  Lower  California,  and  from  a  national  point  of  view  its 
importance  is  so  great  that  its  preservation  demands  National  protection,  and  justi- 
fies National  expenditure." 

It  may  be  added  right  here,  however,  that  the  Government  has  never  acted 
upon  Commodore  Patterson's  worthy  suggestion.  Not  one  dollar  of  Government 
money  has  been  spent  in  either  the  improvement  or  preservation  of  San  Diego  harbor. 
It  stands  to-day  as  nature  made  it.  The  depth  across  the  bar  is  23  feet  at  mean 
low  water,  with  a  rise  of  from  2>H  feet  to  SVz  feet  at  high  water;  and  a  regular 
trader  at  this  port,  the  ship  "Jeremiah  Thompson,"  drawing  26^  feet  of  water, 
comes  into  the  harbor  and  reaches  the  wharves  without  danger  or  difficulty,  bring- 
ing an  average  cargo  of  1,500,000  feet  of  lumber. 

The  history  of  this  wonderful  city  reads  like  a  romance.  Previous  to  Novem- 
ber, 1885,  San  Diego  existed  chiefly  as  a  town-site,  and,  measured  by  the  corpora- 
tion limits,  it  contained  an  amplitude  of  area.  It  was  in  1833  that  the  Pueblo  of 
San  Diego  was  organized;  but  it  was  not  until  eleven  years  later,  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  year  1844,  that  the  people  followed  the  usual  customs  of  those  times,  and 
petitioned  the  Government  of  Mexico  (this  whole  country  was  then  under  Mexican 
rule)  for  a  tract  of  land.  A  few  acres  more  or  less  was  of  no  particular  account  to 
the  Mexican  Government  at  that  time,  and  a  grant  of  seventy-five  square  miles  was 
made,  "to  be  used,  controlled  and  disposed  of  by  the  legally  authorized  represent- 
atives of  the  city."  These  seventy-five  square  miles  or,  to  be  exact  and  use  the 
figures  of  the  surveyor  who  traced  the  lines  subsequently  for  the  Government,  and 
who  reported  that  the  entire  Pueblo  consisted  of  48,556.69  acres,  do  now,  minus 
1,233.8  acres  reserved  by  the  Government  for  military  purposes,  constitute  the  area 
of  the  corporation  of  San  Diego.  The  question  of  title  never  arises  here.  That 
original  grant  has  been  confirmed,  and  upon  it  rests  all  instruments  of  sale. 

The  shores  of  the  bay  are  dotted  with  suburban  towns,  which  share  the 
benefits  of  San  Diego  harbor.  They  are  separated  from  the  City  of  San  Diego  by 
distinct  bounds,  but  it  is  only  a  matter  of  time  when  they  will  become  integral 
parts  of  the  parent  city.  These  towns  are  known  as  National  City,  Roseville  and 
Coronado. 

National  City  is  located  four  miles  down  the  bay,  reckoning  the  distance 
from  the  center  of  the  business  community  of  each  city.  The  two  cities  are,  how- 
ever,  already  practically  merged   into   one,   as  they  are   one   in  interest  and  in 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


207 


sentiment.  National  City  has  a  population  of  3,000.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Santa  Fe  system  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  of  the  National  City  &  Otay  Railway 
Company.  A  capacious  wharf  furnishes  facilities  for  deep-sea  vessels  to  unload, 
and  here,  too,  ship  and  rail  are  brought  together.  An  olive-oil  mill  having  been 
established,  National  City  is  the  olive  market  for  Los  Angeles,  San  Bernardino  and 
San  Diego  counties.  It  is  furnished  with  water  from  the  recently  completed 
Sweetwater  reservoir,  which  has  a  capacity  of  six  billion  gallons,  and  insures  a 
supply  sufficient  for  a  city  of  twenty-five  thousand  inhabitants. 

Coronaclo.  On  Coronado  Beach,  just  across  the  bay  from  San  Diego,  is  a 
city  which  has  already  become  famous  throughout  the  country.  In  two  years'  time 
this  wild  waste  of  land  has  been  transformed  into  a  city  with  a  population  of  two 
thousand.  It  has  one  hotel  which  cost  one  million  dollars,  and  others  which  cost 
large  sums;  it  has  elegant  and  substantial  residences;  it  has  an  iron  foundry  in 


YOUNG    AMERICA'S    FRIEND. 


operation,  and  half  a  dozen  factories  of  various  kinds;  it  has  ship-ways  with  a 
capacity  for  dry-docking  the  largest  coast  steamers  on  an  hour's  notice;  it  has 
complete  water,  gas  and  sewer  systems,  and,  as  a  whole,  has  been  converted 
into  a  veritable  garden,  the  streets  being  uniformly  lined  with  tropical  trees,  shrubs 
and  flowers.  The  surf-bathing  of  Coronado  Beach  is  the  best  on  the  entire  coast, 
and  probably  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  beach  slopes  gently,  and  the  sand  is 
hard  and  free  from  stones  and  ragged  shells,  and  there  is  no  undertow.  The 
temperature  of  the  air  and  of  the  sea  is  about  equal  both  in  winter  and  summer; 
consequently  there  are  extraordinary  inducements  for  surf-bathing  all  the  year 
round. 

Roseville  and  !New  Koseville  are  located  not  far  from  the  entrance 
to  the  harbor.  A  fine  wharf  has  been  built  there,  regular  ferries  established,  and 
the  works  of  the  San  Diego  Nail  Factory  are  now  being  erected.     They  will  have 


208 


THE    CLIMATE. 

Summer  the  Year 
Round. 


The  Home  of  Health 
and  Pleasure. 


TO     THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  20!) 

a  capacity  of  500  kegs  of  nails  a  day,  and  will  be  one  of  the  important  industries  of 
the  San  Diego  region. 

The  Sweetwater  Dam.  This  dam  is  one  of  the  engineering  wonders 
of  this  region,  and  an  excursion  to  it  is  a  most  enjoyable  experience.  It  is  situ- 
ated about  six  miles  back  of  National  City,  and  is  reached  by  the  National  City  & 
Otay  Railroad.  The  dam,  together  with  sixty-five  miles  of  wrought  iron  pipe  laid 
from  the  reservoir  to  National  City,  and  to  various  points  in  that  section  for 
irrigation  purposes,  cost  a  total  of  $Soo,ooo.  The  dimensions  of  the  dam  are  as 
follows  :  46  feet  in  thickness  at  the  base,  12  feet  in  thickness  at  the  top,  75  feet 
in  length  at  the  base,  396  feet  in  length  at  the  top.  The  reservoir  is  three  miles 
long,  three  fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  and  covers  700  acres.  When  full  it  will  hold 
six  billion  gallons  of  water,  a  quantity  sufficient  to  irrigate  30,000  acres  of  land  and 
supply  a  city  of  50,000  people  for  one  year,  or  irrigate  50,000  acres  of  land  one 
year. 

The  climate  of  this  region  is  a  perpetual  source 

of  wonder  to  visitors.     It   is   stating    the   simple, 

unquestionable   fact   to  say   that   it    has   no   equal 

among  the  health  resorts  of  the  world.     From  the 

compiled  records  of  the  U.   S.  Signal  station  here 

we   extract   the  following  :      From   1876  to   1885, 

both  years  inclusive,  covering  a  period  of  ten  years, 

and  embracing  a  period  of  3,653  days,  there  were 

3,533  days  on  which  the  mercury  did  not  rise  above 

8o°;  and  only  120  days  in  ten  years  in  which  the 

thermometer    marked    a    higher    temperature   than 

8o°.     During  these  ten  years  there  were  never  more  than  two  days  in  any  one 

month  in  which  the  mercury  rose  as  high  as  850,  except  June,  1877,  four  days, 

September,  1878,  five  days;   Tune,  1879,  two  days;  September,  1879,  four  days. 

Returning'  to  LOS  Angeles.  The  lovers  of  fine  scenery,  yachting, 
ocean  bathing,  salt  sea  fishing,  outings  among  the  hills,  and  those  who  delight  in 
a  summer  which  circles  the  entire  year,  will  most  reluctantly  tear  themselves  away 
from  the  charms  of  San  Diego.  But  one  can't  travel  and  stand  still  at  the  same 
time;  so  we  take  a  night  train  northward  on  the  same  line  we  came  in  on,  and 
sleep  sweetly  in  one  of  Pullman's  Palaces  until  we  reach  Colton.  Here,  after  a 
good  breakfast,  we  take  the  Southern  Pacific  road  for  Los  Angeles,  thus  passing 
through  new  scenes  from  this  point  on  to  our  destination.  The  first  station  reached 
after  leaving  Colton  is 

CucaniOIlga.  This  town  is  situated  in  the  region  made  familiar  to  the 
public  by  the  Cucamonga  wine,  the  grapes  here  being  noted  for  their  fine  quality. 
Slover  Mountain  is  near  Cucamonga,  and  is  remarkable  for  containing  quarries  of 
onyx,  lime,  marble  and  cement.  The  "  Mountain"  is  in  reality  only  a  moderate 
sized  conical  hill,  but  its  rich  deposits  make  it  more  valuable  than  a  whole  range  of 
its  big  brothers.  The  marble  is  of  the  best  quality,  and  can  be  quarried  in  great 
blocks,  fifty  feet  long,  if  desired,  and  with  a  width  of  from  five  to  six  feet.  The 
onyx  is  white,  and  is  mined  in  large  quantities  for  ornamental  uses.  Along  the 
southern  foot  of  Slover  mountain  flows  the  river  Santa  Ana. 

Ontario  is  located  on  the  main  lines  of  the  Southern  Pacific  and  the  Sama 
Fe  Railways,  the  main  depot  being  on  the  Southern  Pacific,  38  miles  from  Los 
Angeles  and  20  from  Colton,  while  the  Santa  Fe  runs  two  miles  north,  the  station 
being  North  Ontario.     From  the  Southern  Pacific  depot,  a  branch  line  extends  to 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


21] 


Chino.  The  Southern  Pacific  and  San- 
ta  Fe  run  also  three  trains  daily  each 
way,  thus  affording  first-class  railway 
facilities  ;  Ontario  comprises  some  12,- 
000  acres,  located  on  the  mesa  which 
slopes  south  gradually  from  the  Sierra 
Madre  Mountains  to  the  Santa  Ana 
River.  It  is  in  the  west  part  of  what  is 
commonly  known  as  the  San  Bernardino 
Valley,  and  occupies  the  highest  point 
passed  by  rail  or  carriage  road  between 
Los  Angeles  and  San  Bernardino.  The 
lands  reach  from  the  mountains  around 
the  San  Antonio  canon  to  the  Chino 
Ranch,  a  distance  of  about  nine  miles, 
and  the  Colony  ranges  in  width  from 
one  to  three  miles.  The  altitude  is  a 
little  less  than  1,000  feet  at  the  ranch 
line,  and  the  grade  is  about  100  feet 
to  the  mile,  increasing  a  little  nearer 
the  mountains,  the  mouth  of  the  canon 
being  about  2,200  feet  above  sea 
level. 

The  scenery  around  Ontario  is  of 
the  most  striking  and  attractive  char- 
acter. To  the  northwest  rise  the 
Sierra  Madre  Mountains,  while  to  the 
east  towers  the  San  Bernardino  Range, 
and  to  the  west  slumbers  the  dreamy 
Pacific  Ocean.  As  special  landmarks 
in  this  striking  scene  are  the  four 
highest  peaks  of  Southern  California, 
namely:  Mount  San  Bernardino  and 
Old  Grayback  to  the  east,  San  Jacinto 
to  the  southeast,  and  Mt.  San  Antonic 
(Old  Baldy)  adjoining  the  Ontario 
tract  on  the  north.  Ontario  occupies 
the  elevated  plateau  between  the  San 
Bernardino  Mountains  and  the  ocean. 
The  mountains  being  closely  adjacent, 
and  the  sea  being  forty  miles  distant. 
The  settler  can  choose  his  altitude 
from  900   to   2,500   feet,   and    by   so 


SAN    ANTONIO    FALLS.  ONTARIO,   CAL 


212  OVER    THE    RANGE 

doing  find  exactly  the  climate  that  is  suited  to  his  personal  tastes.  On 
the  higher  slopes  of  Ontario  we  can  see  orange  groves  bearing  fruit  and 
flowers  in  delightful  profusion,  suggesting  the  breezes  of  "  Araby  the  Blest,,: 
while  half  a  dozen  miles  distant  on  the  mountain  peaks  gleams  the  arctic 
snows.  Nowhere  in  the  world  are  summer  and  winter  brought  into  closer  juxtapo- 
sition. Tne  zones  of  perpetual  summer  and  never-ending  winter  are  separated 
only  by  the  San  Antonio  Canon.  Nor  is  it  scenery  alone  which  recommends  the 
"Model  Colony  "  of  Ontario.  Here  are  the  best  fruit  lands  in  this  country  of 
fruit  producing  acres.  Here  the  orange  and  the  lime  grow  most  perfectly  and 
most  abundantly;  here  deciduous  fruits  flourish,  and  here,  in  a  word,  is  the  fruit 
growers'  paradise.  It  is  alleged  that  orange  groves  at  less  than  four  years  of  age 
have  produced,  and  frequently  do  produce,  from  $300  to  $500  worth  of  fruit  per 
acre.  So  great  is  the  fertility,  indeed,  that  three  year  old  trees  have  been  known 
to  produce  a  full  box  of  oranges  each.  But  oranges  are  not  the  sole  products  of 
this  wonderful  soil.  There  are  grown  in  great  profusion  the  olive,  peach, 
apricot,  guava,  prune,  pear,  apple,  persimmon,  plum,  raisin  and  grape,  and  when 
one  has  mentioned  these,  he  has  only  begun  the  list.  For  residence  there  can  be 
no  pleasanter  place  than  Ontario,  and  for  horticulture  and  arboriculture  surely  no 
place  can  claim  precedence. 

One  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  the  San  Bernardino 
Valley  is  Pomona,  in  the  eastern  part  of  Los 
Angeles  county,  thirty  miles  from  the  city  of  Los 
Angeles  and  thirty  miles  from  the  Pacific  Ocean 
northward  and  fifty  miles  eastward.  The  Sierra 
Madre  range  of  mountains — average  elevation  of 
9,000  feet  above  the  sea,  with  snow-capped  peaks — 
are  distant  six  miles  north,  and  Mt.  San  Bernardino 
(height  11,000  feet)  and  Mt.  San  Jacinto  (about 
the  same  height)  forty  and  fifty  miles  eastward, 
The  lower  range,  called  the  San  Jose  Hills,  midway 
between  the  Sierra  Madre  Range  and  the  ocean,  terminates  at  the  city,  and  the 
great  valley  widens  at  this  point  to  twenty-five  and  thirty  miles. 

Thus  these  high  mountain  ranges  protect  this  valley  equally  from  harsh  sea 
winds  and  the  unpleasant  dry  winds  and  sandstorms  of  the  desert.  The  altitude 
of  the  city  is  860  feet  above  the  sea,  the  valley  rising  gradually  to  2, coo  feet  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountains.  The  immediate  locality  bears  a  similar  relation  to  the 
mountains  and  the  ocean  as  the  celebrated  health  resorts  of  Mentone  and  Nice. 

A  ride  through  the  streets  of  the  city,  or  along  the  many  roads  traversing  the 
country  in  every  direction,  will  disclose  many  fine  residences;  also  cosy,  comforta- 
ble homes.  Houses,  which  are  neither  large  nor  costly,  show  the  refinement  of 
true  comfort  and  adaptation  to  the  wants  of  the  owners.  The  mild,  open  winters, 
and  consequent  freedom  from  cold,  do  not  require  as  expensive  houses  as  in  east- 
ern and  northern  climates;  therefore  the  house  is  open,  cheery  and  home-like  in  its 
appointments,  many  with  broad  verandas  for  the  open-air  life  of  the  occupants 
during  most  of  the  days  of  the  year;  and  yet  the  individuality  of  the  owner  is  as 
plainly  seen  in  the  architecture  and  plan  of  the  modest  home  as  the  more  preten- 
tious building  of  the  city  or  in  older  communities;  for  these  quiet  homes  are  sur- 
rounded by  groves  of  trees,  many  of  them  evergreen — rows  of  vines  extending 
almost  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach — with  roses  and  flowers  from  the  roadside  to  and 
surrounding   the  house,  the  whole  deepJy  impressing  the  visitor  with  the  air  of 


POMONA. 

Health     and    Pleasure 
Resort. 

A  Fruit  Growing  Para- 
dise. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  213 

home-like  comfort  and  cheerfulness  everywhere  prevailing.  The  town  is  amply 
supplied  with  water,  this  precious  fluid  being  obtained  from  three  sources,  namely, 
San  Antonio  Canon,  numerous  cienegas  which  encircle  the  valley,  and  which  are 
fed  by  subterranean  streams  from  the  high  mountains  and  artesian  wells.  There 
are  in  this  valley  some  of  the  finest  flowing  wells  upon  the  continent,  some  of  which 
have  given  an  undiminished  flow  for  nearly  ten  years.  There  are  now  flowing  in 
the  Pomona  Valley  sixty-seven  wells,  fifty- two  of  which  are  owned  by  the  Pom- 
ona Land  and  Water  Company,  who  are  extending  their  works  at  different  points 
and  increasing  the  number.  These  waters  are  alike  free  from  alkaline,  saline  or 
mineral  taint,  and  deliciously  cool  and  invigorating.  The  right  to  use  water  for 
irrigation  is  sold  with  the  land,  so  that  there  need  be  no  fear  of  a  lack  of  this  neces- 
sity upon  the  part  of  those  who  settle  here. 

As  Pomona  is  directly  suggestive  of  the  subject  of  fruit,  and  as  fruit  culture 
is  the  great  industry  of  Southern  California,  this  is  an  appropriate  place  to  introduce 
a  few  statistics  on  the  subject.  We  condense  the  following  facts  from  reliable 
documents: 

The  cost  of  raw  land  may  safely  be  placed  at  $150  per  acre,  which  is  about  an 
average,  according  to  location.  In  the  following  estimates  for  a  vineyard,  the 
Zinfandel  and  Berger  grapes  have  been  taken,  varieties  which  have  been  tested 
here,  and  which  have  proven  highly  satisfactory: 

Ten  acres  of  land.  @  $150  per  acre $1,500 

Two  plowings,  leveling,  etc.,  @  $5  per  acre 50 

Cost  of  cutting  for  10  acres. 50 

Planting,  @  $5  per  acre .-         50 

Care  for  two  years,  @  $15  per  acre 300 

Total  cost  till  brought  to  bearing $1,950 

Crop  third  year,  5  tons  to  acre,  @  $20  per  ton    $1,000 

Crop  fourth  year,  7  tons  to  acre,  @.  $20  per  ton 1,400 

Crop  fifth  year,  10  tons  per  acre,  @  $20  per  ton 2,000 

Total  for  three  years - -.  $4,400 

Deduct  cost  of  care  for  third  year,  fourth  and  fifth  years,  @ 

$15  per  acre $    450 

Cost  of  'and,  vineyard,  etc i,950 

Interest  2   -ears,  @  10  per  cent 390 

$2,790 

Net  profit,  five  years "... $1,610 

This  estimate  supposes  that  all  the  work  is  hired.  If  a  man  is  not  afraid  to 
take  hold  and  do  most  of  the  work  himself,  which  he  can  easily  do,  the  expense 
account  would  be  materially  smaller. 

Prunes  promise  to  be  a  most  profitable  fruit,  and  have  proven  themselves  at 
home  in  this  valley. 

Cost  of  ten  acres  of  land,  as  given  above $1,500 

Plowing,  etc 50 

Cost  of  prune  trees  for  ten  acres 180 

Planting 50 

Care  for  3  years   @  $15  per  acre  per  year 450 

Cost  of  10-acre  prune  orchard  to  time  of  bearing $2,230 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  215 

The  tourth  year  the  account  stands  about  thus: 

Crop,  ioo  lbs.  per  tree  and  10S  trees  per  acre,  ioS.ooo  lbs., 

@  2  cts.  per  lb $2,160 

Fifth  year,  150  lbs.  per  tree,  162,000  lbs.,  @  2  cts 3,240 


Deduct  cost  of  orchard . $2,230 

Interest  on  $2,230  for  3  years,  @.  10  per  cent „- 669 


5,400 


$2,899 

Net  profits  for  five  years - $2  ,501 

Other  deciduous  trees  will  show  about  the  same  result.  As  has  been  stated, 
the  expense  account  can  be  largely  decreased  if  a  man  is  willing  to  take  hold  and 
work.  One  norse  will  do  all  the  cultivating  ;  thirty  dollars  will  buy  all  the  im- 
plemeii  s  nee:ed,  and  there  need  be  no  expense  for  hired  help  until  the  grapes  or 
fruit  are  to  be  gathered,  and  enough  potatoes  and  other  vegetables  can  be  raised 
on  the  land  to  furnish  a  living  for  the  first  few  years. 

Beyond  Pomona  are  a  number  of  small  stations  possessing  all  the  requisites  of 
climate,  soil  and  scenery  to  become  thriving  towns;  which,  doubtless,  will  be  the 
outcome  in  a  few  years.  At  present,  however,  they  possess  only  a  statistical  value 
to  the  tourist.  These  stations  occur  in  the  following  order:  Spadro,  Lemon, 
Puenta,  Monte  and  Savanna. 

Sail  Gabriel.  This  is  the  site  of  the  famous  Mission  of  Sau  Gabriel,  or,  to 
give  it  the  full  honors  of  its  stately  Spanish  title,  "El  Mission  de  San  Gabriel 
Arcangel."  The  Mission  was  .founded  September  8,  1771,  and  was  moved  from 
the  original  site  to  its  present  position  in  1775.  The  mission  church  is  plainly  to 
be  seen  from  the  car  windows  to  our  right,  just  after  the  station  has  been  passed, 
and  is  a  most  interesting  relic  of  what  in  the  new  world  may  be  called  antiquity, 
having  been  erected,  in  1804,  of  material  imported  from  the  mother  country,  Spain. 
Beyond  San  Gabriel  are  the  suburban  stations  to  Los  Angeles,  of  Alhambra, 
Shorb  and  Aurant.  The  handsome  suburban  villas  which  dot  the  landscape  on 
each  hand  rapidly  increase  in  number  as  the  city  is  approached,  and  soon  we  are 
rolling  along  between  continuous  rows  of  houses,  and  finally  come  to  a  stop  at  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad's  depot,  in  Los  Angeles. 

The  trip  from  Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Monica, 
one  of  the  famous  bathing  resorts  of  the  Pacific 
coast,  is  not  only  justified  by  what  one  finds  at  the 
end  of  his  journey,  but  also  by  the  pleasures 
enjoyed  en  route.  The  Southern  Pacific  Company 
runs  four  trains  to  the  beach  each  day — a  distance 
of  sixteen  miles  ;  and  on  Sunday  the  exodus 
to  this  famed  seaside  resort  is  something  ex- 
traordinary. For  three  or  four  miles  after  leav- 
ing the  station,  we  pass  through  suburbs  of 
Los  Angeles.  Handsome  villa  residences,  sur- 
rounded by  beautiful  and  most  attractive  grounds, 
are  to  be  seen  on  every  side.  At  last,  reaching  the  open  country,  we  pass  through 
a  constant  succession  of  vineyards  and  fruit  orchards,  until  the  near  presence  of  the 
ocean  is  made  known  by  refreshing  saline  breezes  and  the  occurrence  of  sand  dunes 
and  salt  marshes.  The  train  stops  at  a  handsome  depot,  beyond  which  extends  a 
large,  well-kept  and  beautilul  park.       It  is  difficult  for  one  accustomed  to  the 


SANTA  MONICA. 

The 

Long   Branch 

of 

the  Pacific. 

A  charming  Sea  Shore 

Watering  Place. 


216 


OVER     THE    RANGE 


varying  seasons  of  the  lands  across  the  mountains  to  comprehend  the  fact  that  this 
beautiful  park,  with  its  luxuriance  of  sub-tropical  vegetation,  its  affluence  of 
delicate  and  vari-tinted  flowers,  is  never  less  verdant,  less  brilliant  or  less  attrac- 
tive than  it  is  now.  It  is  not  easy  to  grasp  the  fact  that  all  the  year  round,  equally 
as  comfortably  on  the  first  of  January  as  on  the  first  of  June,  one  can  sport  among 


the  combing  billows  that  come  rolling  in  across  the  blue,  serene  Pacific.  The 
attractions  of  Santa  Monica  are  manifold,—  beach-driving,  surf-bathing,  fishing, 
boating,  yachting,  are  the  sea-ward  delights;  while  on  the  shore  are  all  the  charms 
which  nature  has  so  opulently  spread  for  the  pleasure  of  those  who  visit  this 
favored  spot,  together  with  all  the  ingenious  devices  invented  by  man  for  amuse- 
ment and  relaxation.  Of  course,  it  goes  without  saying  that  there  is  a  magnificent 
beach  hotel,  whose  broad  verandas  face  the  sea,  and  whose  appointments  an  com- 


TO    THE    GOLDEN  GATE.  217 

plete  in  all  respects  ;  also,  of  course,  there  are  bath-houses  of  ample  accommoda- 
tions. 

There  are  many  points  of  scenic  interest  within  easy  reach  of  Santa  Monica. 
One  of  the  most  charming  is  that  to  Santa  Monica  canon,  to  which  the  Southern 
Pacific  Company  has  extended  its  line,  and  Manville  Glen,  a  spot  made  cool  and 
inviting  by  ancient  forest  trees  and  a  rippling  brook,  all  embraced  by  rugged 
mountain  surroundings.  This  is  a  favorite  camping  ground,  where  pleasure  and 
health  seekers  pitch  their  tents  and  spend  months  in  the  calm  enjoyment  of  this 
sylvan  retreat.  Santa  Monica  is  a  great  health  resort,  and  experience  has  proved 
its  excellence  in  this  regard.  It  possesses,  the  year  round,  one  of  the  most  en- 
joyable and  healthy  climates  in  the  world,  being  from  ten  to  fifteen  degrees  cooler 
than  Los  Angeles  and  the  interior  country  in  summer,  and  warmer  in  winter. 
There  is  a  magnificent  driving  beach  stretching  away  for  fifteen  miles,  good  sea 
fishing,  an  abundance  of  water  fowl  in  the  neighboring  lagoons,  and  game  in  the 
mountains  a  few  miles  distant.  The  climate  of  Santa  Monica  and  vicinity  is 
worthy  of  somewhat  extended  notice.  In  a  general  way  we  can  sum  up  the  cli- 
matic conditions  of  the  Southern  California  coast  as  follows  :  So  far  as  the 
amount  of  rainfall  is  concerned  throughout  Southern  California,  the  rainy  season 
simply  signifies  that  during  that  period,  exclu-ively,  not  exceeding  18  inches  may 
fall.  The  average  annual  rainfall  at  San  Diego  is  only  10  43  inches.  Following 
up  the  coast  to  San  Francisco,  it  increases  at  the  rate  of  about  2  inches  for  every 
100  miles.  Santa  Monica  receives  about  13  inches,  Santa  Barbara  15  inches, 
Monterey  17  inches,  and  San  Francisco  21  inches.  The  Coast  Range  of  moun 
tains,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  from  2,000  to  4,000  feet,  robs  the  ocean  rain- 
freighted  clouds  of  all  their  precious  burden  before  reaching  the  interior  plains 
and  valleys.  At  Fort  Yuma,  on  the  Colorado  River  and  De  ert,  the  mean  annual 
ra  nfall  is  only  2.54  inches  ;  among  the  little  valleys  extending  from  San  Diego  to 
the  San  Jacinto  Mountains,  from  7  to  9  inches  ;  in  the  valley  of  San  Bernardino, 
and  at  Colton,  Riverside  and  Cocamongo,  10  incl  es  ;  advancing  toward  the  coast, 
Spadra  and  El  Monte  receive  about  11  inches ;  and  Los  Angeles,  situated  20  miles 
from  the  ocean,  about  14  inches.  Crossing  the  San  Bernardino  Mountains  to  the 
Mojave  Plains,  the  yearly  rainfall  is  only  from  3  to  4  inches,  and  from  thence  up 
the  San  Joaquin  Valley  as  far  as  Goshen,  in  latitude  36  degrees,  it  ranges  from  3 
to  6  inches  ;  from  thence,  northward,  it  increases  to  15.10  at  Stockton  and  18  23 
at  Sacramento.  Taking  it  all  in  all,  Santa  Monica  is  a  place  of  great  interest. 
We  have  said  nothing  about  the  town  so  far,  but  must  not  neglect  to  state  that 
there  is  a  town,  and  a  very  pretty  one  at  that.  It  is  situated  on  the  level  mesa, 
which  stretches  back  landward  from  the  brink  of  the  natural  sea  wall,  from  whose 
foot  extends  the  level  beach  outward  to  the  ocean  rim.  The  residences  are  taste- 
ful, many  of  them  elegant,  the  business  blocks  substantial,  and  every  element  of 
comfort  and  convenience  for  the  health  or  pleasure  seeker  can  be  found  here. 

Port  Los  Angeles.  Twenty  miles  west  of  the  city  of  Los  Angeles  is 
where  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  have  built  their  Mammoth  Wharf,  the  longest 
ocean  pier  in  the  world.  The  total  length  of  the  structure  is  4  620  feet.  The 
coal  bunkers  are  fitted  with  every  convenience  for  rapid  handling  of  coal  cargoes 
from  ship  to  bunker  and  then  to  car,  and  are  8  6  feet  long,  36  feet  wide,  and  36 
feet  high,  with  a  capacity  for  8,000  tons  of  coal.  Depot  buildings  and  freight 
sheds  are  384  feet  in  length,  containing  ample  waiting  room  accommodations  and 
an  excellent  restaurant.  The  fishing  from  the  wharf  is  the  best  on  the  coast. 
Bait  and  tackle  can  be  had  on  the  wharf.  The  large  steamers  of  the  P.  C.  S.  S. 
Co.  stop  at  Port  Los  Angeles  north   and  south  bound  for  passengers   and  freight, 


SIS 


OVER     THE    RANGE 


while  deep  sea  and  coasting  vessels  are  coming  and  going  at  all  times.  Fare,  50 
cents  ;  round  trip,  75  cents  ;  round  trip  Saturday  and  Sunday,  good  to  return 
until  Monday,  50  cents. 

Lonji"  Beach.  We  have  already  described  the  greater  portion  of  the  trip 
from  Los  Angeles  to  Long  Beach  in  that  portion  ot  this  book  devoted  to  the  jour- 
ney from  Los  Angeles  to  San  Pedro.  We  follow  the  same  line  in  our  excursion 
to  the  Beach  as  far  as  the  Junction,  at  which  point  our  train  takes  the  line  to  the 
left,  and  rolling  along  through  a  level  country,  encroached  upon  here  and  there  by 
the  salt  marshes  of  the  ocean,  but  passing  many  fertile  and  attractive  spots,  soon 
reaches  Long  Beach,  the  goal  of  our  journey.  This  popular  resort  is  only  twenty- 
five  miles  distant  from  Los  Angeles,  and  can  be  reached  in  an  hour's  ride  from  the 
city.  Surf-bathing  may  be  enjoyed  here  the  year  round,  and  the  accommodations 
are  complete  in  every  respect.  The  beach  itself  is  one  of  the  greatest  attractions 
of  the  place.  The  sands  are  left  hard  and  compact  by  the  retiring  tide,  and  the 
drive  along  the  margin  of  the  ocean  is  undoubtedly  the  finest  to  be  found  any- 
where on  the  California  coast.  Long  Beach  has  a  wharf  which  extends  a  distance 
of  750  feet  in  the  ocean,  reaching  water  deep  enough  to  float  vessels  of  the  heaviest 
tonnage  by  its  side.  Long  Beach  has  already  become  a  resort  of  great  popularity, 
and  the  excellence  of  its  beach,  its  attractive  scenery  and  fine  hotel  combine  to 
render  this  popularity  greater  every  day. 


CALIFORNIA'S    MAMMOTH    GRAPE    VINE. 


SAUNTERINGS  AROUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


FTER  enjoying  the  delights  of  Southern  California,  the  tourist  can 
return  to  San  Francisco  from  Los  Angeles  over  the  same  route  by 
which  the  southward  journey  was  made,  or  he  can  take  steamer  at 
Santa  Barbara,  San  Pedro  or  Port  Los  Angeles,  and  have  the 
pleasuie  of  a  delightful  coast  voyage.  Having  once  more  estab- 
lished headquarters  in  the  metropolis,  he  will  be  ready  to  make  excursions  to  the 
points  of  interest  adjacent  to  the  city. 

San  Francisco  to  Monterey.  It  was  a  bright,  genial  California 
day,  when  we  took  the  cars  of  the  Coast  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Kail- 
road,  at  the  station  opposite  the  immense  brick  building  at  the  corner  of  Fourth 
and  Townsend  streets,  in  which  are  the  general  offices  of  this  great  railroad  com- 
pany. We  were  bound  for  Monterey,  famous  for  its  bathing  and  its  Rosamond's 
Bower — the  world-renowned  Hotel  del  Monte.  Our  course  is  southward  through 
the  city  for  a  distance  of  four  miles.  Two  miles  from  the  station  are  the  machine 
shops  of  the  railroad  company.  Valencia  street  station  is  reached  in  another  mile; 
here  the  cable  line  through  the  center  of  the  city  to  Oakland  Pier  crosses  the 
track.  Beyond  this  station  the  suburbs  of  the  city  are  entered.  On  the  right, 
occupying  an  elevated  position,  is  the  Industrial  School  building.  Bernal  is 
passed,  and  numbers  of  market-gardens,  with  an  intricate  and  interesting  system  of 
terraces  and  irrigating  ditches,  pipes  and  flumes.  Holy  Cross  Cemetery  is  seen  to 
our  left,  then  Coloma,  Ocean  View  and  Baden  come  next,  and  then  we  approach 
quite  near  the  shore  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  reaching  this  point  by  means  of  a 
sharply  descending  grade. 

San  Bruno.  Here  are  the  rifle  ranges  of  the  shooting  club-;,  situated  on 
the  shore  of  the  bay;  and  here  also  is  a  large  hotel,  a  popular  resort  for  the  sports- 
men who  congregate  at  this  place.  (Population,  50.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
14  miles.     Elevation,  15  feet.) 

Millbrae.  This  is  the  station  for  the  country-seat  of  Mr.  D.  O.  Mills, 
president  of  the  Bank  of  California,  and  his  palatial  residence  can  be  seen  about 
half  a  mile  distant  to  the  right,  characterized  by  two  lofty  towers.  Just  beyond 
the  station  is  the  Millbrae  Dairy,  with  a  multitude  of  buildings  showing  the 
great  extent  of  this  enterprise.  Handsome  residences  cam  be  seen  on  the  right,  the 
left  side  being  next  the  bay,  and  given  over  to  meadow  lands  and  cultivated  fields, 
diversified  by  occasional  groves.  (Population,  300.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
17  miles.     Elevation,  S  feet.) 

Fair  Oaks.  This  station  is  the  site  of  most  attractive  groves  of  live  oaks, 
from  which  it  takes  its  name.     (Distance  from  San  Francisco,  31  miles.) 

San  Mateo.  Surrounding  San  Mateo  are  a  number  of  the  most  elegant 
country-seats  in  California.  Wealth  has  concentrated  its  forces  here,  and  every- 
thing that  money  can  do,  when  employed  unstintedly  and  intelligently,  has  been 
done  to  beautify  the  scene.  The  art  of  the  landscape  gardener  has  here  been 
exercised  to  its  fullest  extent,  and  the  grounds  which  surround  these  palaces  of 
San  Franciscan  millionaires  are  bewildering  visions  of  arboreal  and  floral  beauty. 
As  we  advance  after  leaving  the  station,  the  race  track  is  passed  on  the  right,  also 
the  Young  Ladies  Seminary.     The  bay  is  on  the  left.     Groves  of  oak,  eucalyptus 

219 


OLD    MISSION    CHURCH  — MONTEREY. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


.'1 


PASO  RUBLES 


trees  and  endless  orchards  stretch  away  to  the  right  as  far  as  vision  can  reach. 
Four  miles  beyond  San  Mateo  is  Belmont,  the  station  for  the  country-seat  of  the 
late  banker  king,  John  Ralston,  which  is  one  of  the  most  noted  country  residences 
near  San  Francisco,  and  during  the  life  of  its  owner  it  was  the  scene  of  a  most 
generous  and  lavish  hospitality.       The  statistics  of    San   Mateo  are  as  follows: 

(Population,  1,500. 
Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  21  miles. 
Elevation  22  feet.) 

Redwood. 
This  town  is  the 
county-seat  of  San 
Mateo  county,  and 
derives  its  name  from 
the  proximity  of 
extensive  redwood 
forests  to  the  west- 
ward. Great  quan- 
tities of  redwood 
lumber,  firewood  and 
bark  are  shipped  from 
this  station.  Arte- 
sian wells  furnish 
water  for  the  town, 
which  is  well  built 
and  supplied  with  all 
of  the  modern  con- 
veniences. The  trib- 
utary industries,  in 
addition  to  lumber- 
ing, are  fruit  raising 
and  agriculture. 
(Population,  1,600. 
Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  28  miles. 
Elevation,  9  feet.) 

Menlo  Park  is 
noted  as  the  residence 
of  a  large  number  of 
San  Francisco's  most 
wealthy  business  men 
and  gentlemen  of 
leisure.  It  is  a  bower 
of  beauty  in  the 
heart  of  umbrageous 
groves,  made  still 
more  lovely  and  attractive  by  flowers  of  every  hue  and  a  generous  abundance  of 
ornamental  shrubs  and  trailing  vines.  It  goes  without  saying  that  all  that  the  genius 
of  the  architect  can  devise  has  been  done  to  make  the  country  residences  equal 
in  beauty  with  their  surroundings.  (Population,  400.  Distance  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, 32  miles.     Elevation,  64  feet.) 


222  OVER     THE    RANGE 

Lelaml  Stanford,  Jr.,  University.  The  site  of  this  university, 
which  has  an  endowment  of  $20,000,000,  and  is  a  monument  of  parental  affection, 
is  Palo  Alto,  near  Mayfield,  two  miles  beyond  Menlo  Park.  There  are  4,291  acres 
of  land  in  the  grounds  belonging  to  the  university  estate. 

Alviso.  This  station  is  at  the  head  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  from  this 
point  great  quantities  of  fruit,  especially  of  the  smaller  varieties,  are  shipped  by 
boat  to  San  Francisco.  (Population,  no.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  38  miles. 
Elevation,  8  feet.) 

Santa  Clara  was  foundea  by  the  Jesuits  in  1774,  and  has  for  its  site  a 
most  beautiful  region,  being  near  the  centre  of  the  fertile  Santa  Clara  Valley. 
The  climate  is  noted  for  its  healthfulness  and  equability.  This  valley  is  one  of  the 
best  wheat  regions  in  the  state,  and  is  also  noted  for  the  abundance  and  fine 
quality  of  its  fruit.  Santa  Clara  and  San  Jose  are  twin  cities,  being  only  three 
miles  apart. 

From  San  Jose,  the  Alameda,  a  broad  and  famous  avenue  lined  with  ancient 
willows,  leads  to  the  old  town  of  Santa  Clara,  four  miles  distant.  The  Mission  of 
Santa  Clara  was  founded  by  Father  Pena,  in  1777,  and  the  old  adobe  walls  are 
still  crumbling  away.  Twelve  miles  by  rail  takes  us  to  the  famous  New  Almedan 
quicksilver  mines,  which  furnish  half  the  quicksilver  the  world  produces,  and  gives 
employment  to  several  hundred  miners.  The  mountains  are  picturesque,  easily 
reached,  abound  in  trout  and  game,  and  contain  many  health  and  pleasure  resorts, 
besides  presenting  every  attraction  to  camping  parties.  (Population,  3,000.  Dis- 
tance from  San  Francisco,  44  miles.     Elevation,  75  feet.) 

The  metropolis  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  is 
San  Jose,  the  county  seat  of  Santa  Clara  county, 
and  the  Garden  City  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  It  is  a 
progressive  and  rapidly  growing  city,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  25,000.  It  is  fifty  miles  distant  from  San 
Francisco,  with  which  it  has  rapid  and  convenient 
communication  by  three  lines  of  railroad,  operated 
by  the  Southern  Pacific  Company,  giving  trains 
either  way  at  all  times  of  day,  tickets  being  inter- 
changeable on  all  the  routes.  It  is  also  convenient 
to  the  most  charming  seaside  resorts  in  the  world, 
Santa  Cruz  and  Monterey,  and  two  special  excursion  trains  are  run  to  these  places 
weekly.  The  beautiful  surroundings  and  delightful  climate  of  the  valley  already 
briefly  alluded  to,  its  many  elegant  and  costly  homes,  its  shaded  streets  and 
avenues  literally  embowered  in  trees  of  perpetual  verdure,  and  the  many  social 
and  other  advantages  which  wealth  and  culture  have  bestowed,  make  San  Jose  the 
place  for  an  ideal  home. 

There  are  twenty  three  churches  in  San  Jose,  and  its  educational  facilities  are 
unsurpassed.  The  five  public  schools  are  not  excelled  in  the  state,  and  a  high 
school  with  an  advanced  curriculum  crowns  the  system.  There  are  here,  besides, 
some  of  the  best  known  educational  institutions  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  The 
University  of  the  Pacific  is  a  Methodist  institution  of  high  rank;  the  State 
Normal  School  and  the  College  of  Notre  Dame  are  centrally  located,  and  at  Santa 
Clara,  three  miles  distant,  is  the  Santa  Clara  College,  an  institution  located  on  the 
site  of  the  old  Santa  Clara  Mission  At  Palo  Alto,  few  miles  to  the  northwest, 
are  the  buildings  of  the  Leland  Stanford,  Jr.,  University,  one  of  the  grandest 
educational   institutions    of  the   world,  having    an   endowment  of  $20,000,000. 


SAN  JOSE. 

Metropolis    of    Santa 
Clara  Valley. 

The  Garden  City  of  the 
Pacific  Coast. 


TO     THE    GOLDEN1    GATE. 


223 


There  are  also,  in  and  about  San  Jose,  several  other  minor  educational  institutions. 
Besides  the  vast  and  only  partial  developed  resources  of  the  Santa  Clara  and  three 
small  but  fertile  tributary  valleys,  San  Jose  has  many  industries  as  a  basis  for  her 


A,       - '  y\     1     -  _  jr 


prosperity.  Recent  experiment  has  shown  that  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  is  one  ol 
the  most  favorable  regions  in  the  world  for  the  propagation  of  the  silk  worm,  and 
the  infant  silk  industry  is  already  represented  by  a  manufactory  of  dress  silks. 
There  are  four  large  fruit  canneries,  three  glove  factories,  two  flouring  mills,  a 
large  woolen  mill,  and  a  great  number  of  other  industries.  Four  miles  away  are 
the  great  Lick  paper  mills.  (Population,  25,000.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
50  miles.     Elevation,  86  feet.) 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  225 

The  Lick  Observatory.  Throughout  this  region  are  many  points  and 
features  of  interest.  First  in  importance  is  the  great  Lick  Observatory,  whose 
dome  glistens  in  the  sunlight  on  the  top  of  Mount  Hamilton,  twenty-six  miles 
away,  and  at  an  altitude  of  4  443  feet.  Here  is  now  in  place  one  of  the  most  pow- 
erful telescopes  in  the  world.  For  this  observatory  the  late  James  Lick  bequeathed 
$700,000,  and  the  property  now  belongs  to  the  University  of  California.  Daily 
stages  run  to  the  summit  over  a  magnificent  winding  road,  which  cost  Santa  Clara 
county  %  100,000.  From  the  summit,  on  a  clear  day,  the  view  is  one  of  indescrib- 
able beauty  and  grandeur.  The  great  dome  of  the  observatory  can  be  plainly  seen 
to  the  left,  from  the  windows  of  the  train,  after  San  Jose  has  been  left  behind. 
Two  delightful  side  trips  from  San  Jose  are  those  to  Los  Gatos  and  Santa  Cruz. 

LOS  Gatos.  Nine  miles  from  San  Jose,  on  the  direct  narrow  gauge  line  to 
Santa  Cruz,  lies  Los  Gatos,  a  thriving  town  of  2,000  inhabitants,  which  nestles 
amid  picturesque  surroundings,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains. 
It  is  within  the  Santa  Clara  Valley,  partaking  of  all  the  material  and  climatic 
blessings  of  that  lovely  region;  but  it  also  lies  within  the  thermal,  or  warm,  belt, 
and  so  enjoys  an  added  advantage  and  attraction.  This  thermal  belt  is  an  interest- 
ing phenomenon,  and  is  observed  in  all  the  foot  hills  of  the  bay  region.  It  is  due 
to  the  fact  that  when  the  cooler  airs  of  night  flow  into  the  broad  valley  below, 
sometimes  lowering  the  temperature  until  frost  is  formed,  the  warm  air  rises  and 
rests  at  a  higher  altitude,  preserving  in  a  wide  strip  of  country  along  the  mountain 
sides  a  higher  temperature  at  night  and  a  more  equable  climate  than  is  found  in 
the  valley  below.  About  Los  Gatos,  the  strip  of  country  so  affected  is  six  miles  in 
width.  The  change  is  quickly  noted  in  a  drive  from  San  Jose  to  Los  Gatos  in  the 
cool  of  the  evening.  This  condition  gives  to  Los  Gatos  a  truly  Arcadian  air  that 
is  a  perpetual  delight  to  the  visitor  or  resident.  It  is  this  which  makes  the  success- 
ful cultivation  of  the  orange,  lemon  and  other  citrus  fruits  possible  here.  The  soil 
here  is  as  rich  and  fertile  as  in  any  portion  of  the  valley,  and  this  with  the  perfect 
climate,  pure  and  balmy  airs,  and  the  ever-present  beauty  and  abundance  which 
has  followed  the  efforts  of  labor  and  capital,  make  of  this  particular  region  a  veri- 
table Eden. 

The  country  about  Los  Gatos  is  noted  for  its  fruit,  and  the  whole  slope  is 
covered  with  profitable  vineyards  and  orchards,  wherein  plums,  peaches,  prunes, 
apricots,  pears,  apples,  olives,  figs,  cherries,  oranges,  lemons  and  other  fruits 
attain  a  rare  perfection.  English  walnuts  are  extensively  raised,  and  the  largest 
almond  orchard  in  the  world  is  located  here.  Owing  to  its  proximity  to  San 
Francisco,  and  its  unequaled  attractions  as  a  place  of  residence,  Los  Gatos  has 
become  the  suburban  residence  place  of  a  number  of  San  Francisco  men  of  wealth, 
and  a  special  suburban  train  is  run  to  the  town.  (Population,  2,000.  Distance  from 
San  Francisco,  55  miles.     Elevation,  400  feet.) 

One  of  the  loveliest  cities  of  California  is  that 
of  Santa  Cruz.  Occupying  a  charming  site  on  the 
seashore  at  the  north  end  of  the  crescent-shaped  bay 
of  Monterey,  it  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  San  Lorenzo 
river,  and  recedes  from  a  beautiful  beach,  extending 
to  a  broad  plateau  and  two  terraces  rising  above  it, 
surrounded  by  protecting  hills. 

Santa  Cruz  is  the  most  popular  and  fashionable 
seaside  resort  in  the  state,  and  is  termed  the  New- 
port of    the    Pacific   Coast.      During   the   summer 
season  people    flock   to   this   beautiful   city   by    the    thousands,    especially    from 


SANTA  CRUZ. 

The  Newport  of  the 
Pacific  Coast. 


Health   and  Pleasure 
Resort. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  227 

the  cities;  and  during  the  "season,"  the  population  is  increased  to  ten  or 
twelve  thousand.  Its  bathing  is  its  pride  and  its  glory,  and  with  its  lovely  beach 
of  clean,  white  sand,  its  fine  bath  houses,  and  its  safe  and  delightful  waters,  its 
attractions  in  this  line  are  unequaled.  While  the  crowds  are  greatest  during  the 
vacation  season,  between  May  and  September,  the  bathing  is  delightful  the  whole 
year  round.  Excursion  trains  are  run  to  this  place  from  San  Francisco  every 
Saturday  and  Sunday. 

The  place  itself  has  all  the  features  of  a  modern  progressive  city,  among  which 
may  be  mentioned  electric  lights,  gas,  fine  water  system,  fire  department,  street 
cars,  free  library,  telephones,  three  daily  and  two  weekly  papers,  two  banks,  hand- 
some public  buildings,  fine  schools  and  numerous  churches.  It  has  magnificent 
streets,  many  being  paved  with  bituminous  rock,  and  its  sidewalks  are  exceptionally 
good.     Its  great  number  of  cosy  and  attractive  homes  are  among  its  chief  features. 

The  climate  of  Santa  Cruz  and  surrounding  country  is  unsurpassed  by  that  of 
any  other  part  of  the  state.  It  is  remarkably  equable,  the  average  temperature  for 
winter  being  52  degrees,  and  for  summer  62  degrees.  The  difference  between  the 
extremes  of  the  year  is  always  small.  Epidemics  are  unknown,  and  health  and 
vigor  is  imparted  to  invalids,  as  well  as  to  the  strong.  Rare  roses,  and  ether 
blooms  which  in  the  East  are  hot-house  plants,  are  culled  from  gardens  every  week 
in  the  year. 

In  the  mountains  and  valleys  about  Santa  Cruz,  there  is  an  almost  endless 
array  of  attractions.  The  mountains  are  exceedingly  picturesque,  abound  in  trout 
and  game,  offer  great  attractions  to  the  camper,  are  full  of  beautiful  canons  and 
nooks,  and  the  views  to  be  obtained  are  of  surpassing  beauty  and  grandeur.  Ben 
Lomond  is  the  highest  peak,  and  is  reached  by  four  delightful  routes.  Five  miles 
from  Santa  Cruz  is  a  famous  group  of  redwoods,  known  as  the  "  Big  Trees."  The 
largest  is  300  feet  in  height  and  60  feet  in  circumference  There  are  several 
valleys  of  great  beauty  and  fertility,  the  most  noted  being  the  Pajaro  Valley.  In 
the  valleys  and  on  the  mountain  slopes  fruits  of  all  kinds  are  extensively  grown, 
with  as  great  success  as  anywhere  in  the  state,  and  general  farming  is  easy  and 
profitable.  The  dairying  interests  are  extensive,  and  the  forests  are  still  large  and 
dense.  The  county  is  the  second  in  the  state  in  manufactures.  This  is  a  region  of 
flowers  and  perpetual  summer,  with  every  attraction  for  residence,  and  offering 
great  inducements  for  investments.  (Population,  7,000.  Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  80  miles.     Elevation,  15  feet.) 

Castroville.  Resuming  our  journey  at  San  Jose  for  Monterey,  we  pass 
through  an  interesting  and  fertile  country  until  Castroville  is  reached.  From  this 
point  a  branch  extends  down  to  Monterey,  the  main  line  running  to  Templeton. 
Around  Castroville  is  one  of  the  greatest  wheat  growing  regions  of  California. 
The  ordinary  yield  is  from  40  to  50  bushels  to  the  acre,  though  as  high  as  102 
bushels  have  been  grown  here — the  largest  yield  on  record.  (Population,  600. 
Distance  from  San  Francisco,  no  miles.     Elevation,   17  feet.) 

From  Castroville  we  follow  the  curving  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey;  at 
times  within  a  short  distance  of  the  shore,  and  at  others  somewhat  farther  inland. 
Sand  dunes  and  salt  marshes  testify  to  the  nearness  of  the  ocean. 

Del  Moilte.  In  the  heart  of  a  lovely  grove  the  train  stops  at  a  tasteful 
rustic  pavilion,  which  is  the  station.  Broad,  graveled  roads  sweep  up  to  the 
station  in  graceful  curves,  and  here  stand  waiting  richly  appointed  four-horse 
carriages,  in  which  guests  for  the  famous  Hotel  del  Monte  are  conveyed  to  their 
destination.  Glimpses  of  the  hotel  to  the  left  can  be  caught  through  the  interstices 
of  the  trees;   while  vines  and  shrubs  and  flowers  grow  everywhere  in   studied  and 


HOTEL  DEL  MONTE. 

A  Palace  of  Delight. 

The  Queen  of  American 
Watering  Places. 


TO     TI$E    GOLDEN    GATE.  229 

artistic  confusion.  The  drive  to  the  hotel  along  the  broad,  tree  lined  avenues, 
shaded  by  immemorial  and  stately  live  oaks,  through  which  vistas  of  sylvan  beauty 
can  be  seen,  gives  one  a  foretaste  of  the  charms  of  this  one  of  the  most  charming 
places  in   the  world. 

The  hotel  is  first  seen  through  a  vista  of  trees. 
and,  in  its  beautiful  embcwerment  of  foliage  and 
flowers,  resembles  some  rich  private  home  in  the 
midst  of  a  broad  park.  This  impression  is  height- 
ened when  the  broader  extent  of  avenues,  lawns 
and  flower-bordered  walks  come  into  view.  The 
gardener's  art  has  turned  many  acres  into  a  choice 
conservatory,  where  the  richest  flowers  blossom  in 
profusion.  Here  and  there  are  swings,  croquet 
grounds,  an  archery,  lawn-tennis  courts,  and  bins 
of  fine  beach  sand — the  latter  being  intended  for  the  use  and  amusement 
of  the  children,  who  can  not  await  the  bathing  hour  for  the  daily  visit  to 
the  beach.  The  use  of  all  these,  as  well  as  of  the  ladies'  billiard  saloon,  is  free  to 
guests.  In  all  directions  there  are  seats  for  loungers.  Through  a  vista  formed 
by  the  umbrageous  oaks  and  pines,  the  huge,  bulbous  forms  of  a  varied  family  of 
cacti  are  seen.  In  another  place  is  a  bewildering  maze.  Everywhere  flowers  and 
rare  plants  abound,  and  every  avenue  and  pathway  is  bordered  by  intricate  floral 
devices.  In  any  direction  the  eye  may  turn  are  fresh  visions  of  beauty.  In  the 
fall  of  18S3  a  great  improvement  was  consummated  in  the  introduction  of  an 
abundant  supply  of  pure,  soft  water  from  the  Carmel  river.  Extensive  water 
works  were  constructed  at  an  expense  of  over  half  a  million  dollars.  The  supply  not 
only  meets  every  requirement  of  the  hotel,  but  also  feeds  the  great  fountain  in  the 
lake.  The  Del  Monte  Bathing  Pavilion  is  situated  on  the  beach,  about  eight 
minutes'  walk  from  the  hotel,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  complete  establish- 
ments of  the  kind  in  the  world.  It  is  seventy  feet  wide  by  one  hundred  and  seventy 
long.  There  are  four  tanks  of  about  thirty-six  feet  wide  by  fifty  feet  long.  The 
water  int'iese  tanks  ranges  in  temperature  from  cold  up  to  warm,  and  the  bather 
can  take  his  choice  The  heating  is  done  by  steam,  and  the  water  is  daily  changed. 
The  pavilion  contains  two  hundred  and  ten  dressing-rooms,  one-half  of  which 
is  set  apart  for  the  use  of  ladies.  Each  of  the  latter  is  fitted  up  with  a  fresh  water 
shower  bath,  while  on  the  gentlemen's  side  fourteen  shower  baths  serve  for  ail. 
The  pavilion  and  everything  connected  with  it  is  kept  scrupulously  clean,  and 
always  presents  a  pleasing  appearance.  When  filled  with  bathers  and  spectators, 
it  presents  a  spectacle  which,  in  point  of  animation  and  interest,  would  be  hard 
to  surpass.  Outside  of  this  pavilion  is  a  beautiful  sandy  beach,  on  which  surf- 
bathing  may  be  indulged.  An  adjunct  of  the  Hotel  del  Monte  is  its  iS  mile 
drive,  over  a  splendidly-kept  macadamized  road,  by  way  of  Monterey,  Pacific 
Grove,  Cypress  Grove,  Carmel  Bay,  and  the  old  Mission  Church.  The  reader  will 
remember  the  sensation  which  was  created  several  years  ago  by  the  burning  of  the 
Hotel  del  Monte.  From  its  ruins  there  has  arisen  a  new  Del  Monte — larger,  more 
beautiful  and  complete  than  the  old  one.  The  new  Del  Monte  is  in  its  main  front 
and  general  style  of  architecture  an  exact  copy  of  the  old  Del  Monte,  which  was 
universally  pronounced,  by  thousands  of  famous  visitors  from  all  countries,  to  have 
been  the  most  graceful  and  elegant  building  of  its  class  in  the  world.  The  new 
building,  by  increasing  and  extending  its  annexes,  has  nearly  double  the  accommoda- 
tions of  the  old  one.  These  annexes  are  connected  together  by  two  arcades  of 
glass  and  iron,  three  stories  in  height,  which  virtually  makes  the  two  annexes  one. 


INSID 


E    AND    OUTSIDE    HEADERS- DEL    MONTE. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


231 


Befng  tully  incrosed,  and  yet  light  as  day,  the  guest  experiences  no  inconvenience 
of  any  kind  in  walking  through  them;  on  the  contrary,  the  two  arcades  make 
delightful  little  promenading  places.  T  he  dining-room  is  162  by  66  feet,  nearly 
double  the  size  of  the  old  one,  and  will  comfortably  seat  500  people  at  once.  The 
park  grounds  surrounding  the  Del  Monte  have  no  equal  on  this  coast,  and  it 
is  a  mere  question  of  time  when  they  will  have  no  superior  anywhere.  Nature 
endowed  them  with  prodigal  liberality,  and  the  owners  are  supplementing  nature's 
efforts  with  an  equally  prodigal  expenditure  of  art.  Croquet  plats,  an  archery 
ground,  swings,  lawn  tennis  grounds,  choice  flowers,  shrubs,  trees,  beautiful 
walks,  and,  in  short,  everything  which  an  experienced  landscape  gardener's  artistic 
eye  can  suggest,  is  being  done  for  the  improvement  of  this  favored  spot. 

Monterey.  This  quaint  and  romantic  old  town,  the  capital  of  California 
when  the  territory  was  acquired  by  the  United  States,  and  the  place  where 
Fremont  first  raised  the  stars  and  stripes  and  took  formal  possession  of  the 
country,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  to  visit  in  California.  Monterey  is 
situated  on  the  lovely  bay  of  the  same  name,  125  miles  from  San  Francisco  by  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  and  can  be  reached  in  3^  hours  by  taking  the  fast 
Monterey  train,  leaving  the  city  at  2:30  P.  M.  This  is  the  fastest  train  on  the 
Pacific  Coast,  and  one  of  the  most  elegant  in  equipment  in  the  world.  There  is 
probably  no  place  upon  the  Pacific  Coast  so  replete  with  natural  charms  as 
Monterey.  Its  exquisite  beauty  and  variety  of  scenery  is  diversified  with  ocean, 
bay,  lake  and  streamlet;  mountain,  hill  and  valley;  and  groves  of  oak,  cypress, 
spruce,  pine  and  other  trees.  The  mountain  views  are  very  beautiful,  particularly 
the  Gabilan  and  Santa  Cruz  spurs.  The  Bay  of  Monterey  is  a  magnificent  sheet  of 
water,  and  is  twenty-eight  miles  from  point  to  point.  It  is  delightfully  adapted  to 
boating  and  yachting;  and  many  kinds  of  fish  may  be  taken  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year.  For  bathing  purposes  the  beach  is  all  that  could  be  desired — one  long,  bold 
sweep  of  wide,  gently  sloping,  clean,  white  sands  —  the  very  perfection  of  a 
bathing  beach;  and  so  safe  that  children  may  play  and  bathe  upon  it  with  entire 
security.  There  are  also  great  varieties  of  sea-mosses,  shells,  pebbles  and  agates, 
scattered  here  and  there  along  the  rim  of  the  bay,  fringed,  as  it  is  at  all  times,  with 
the  creamy  ripple  of  the  surf.  (Population,  2,300.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
125  miles.     Elevation,  5  feet.) 

Pacific  Grove,  a  short  distance  from  Monterey,  is  to  the  Pacific  Coast 
what  Nantucket,  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Ocean  Grove,  are  to  the  Atlantic  sea-side 
resorts,  except  that  the  Pacific  Grove  retreat  has  as  equable  a  temperature  as 
Monterey  itself,  and  is  kept  open  all  the  year  round.  It  is  delightfully  situated  o* 
the  beautiful  Bay  of  Monterey,  less  than  two  miles  from  the  old  town,  and  in 
loveliness  of  location  cannot  be  excelled,  its  graceful  pines  extending  to  the  water's 
edge. 


YOSEMITE    VALLEY. 


TO  THE  YOSEMITE. 


O  one  who  visits  San  Francisco  can  afford  to  return  home  without 
seeing  nature's  great  temple  of  wonders — the  Yosemite.  The  way 
thither  has  been  greatly  smoothed  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad, 
and  each  succeeding  year  sees  improvements  in  this  direction. 
What  was  formerly  an  undertaking  of  considerable  magnitude  and 
difficulty,  has  now  become  an  easy  journey,  and  one  fraught  with  pleasure  in  the 
taking  It  is  only  a  vacation  jaunt,  requiring  four  days  to  make  the  round  trip. 
The  valley  is  259  miles  from  San  Francisco,  178  miles  to  Berende,  on  the 
route  already  described  in  the  trip  to  Los  Angeles,  thence  21  miles  by  rail  to  Ray- 
mond, and  60  miles  by  stage  to  the  valley.  It  is  now  all  rail  to  the  foot-hills  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  where  the  traveler  is  transferred  to  the  most 
approved  pattern  of  stages  (or  carriages,  really),  and  is  delightfully  whirled  up 
into  the  Land  of  Wonders  over  an  excellent  road,  through  giant  timber,  across  ice- 
cold  rivulets,  and  past  cataracts  which  send  their  spray  into  the  sunlight,  embel 
Hshed  with  the  colors  of  the  rainbow.  Mr.  Ben.  C.  Truman,  the  veteran  traveler 
and  writer  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  speaks  as  follows  concerning  this  wonderland: 
"  Some  few  years  ago  we  visited  the  Yosemite  in  company  with  a  gentleman  who 
had  traveled  largely,  and  who  had  written  much  of  the  scenic  attractions  of  Europe, 
Asia  and  America,  and  who  exclaimed,  as  we  reached  '  Inspiration  Point ':  'My 
God!  self-convicted  as  a  spendthrift  in  words,  the  only  terms  applicable  to  this 
spot  I  have  wasted  on  minor  scenes.'  And  it  was,  unfortunately,  true,  that 
language  failed  to  give  adequate  utterance  to  the  emotion  of  my  friend  upon  that 
occasion,  and  his  hitherto  facile  pen  failed  to  perform  its  functions  with  its 
characteristic  felicity  and  brilliancy.  This  has  been  the  case  with  many,  however, 
if  not  with  all  others;  and,  thus,  the  pre-eminent  grandeur  and  magnificence  of 
the  Yosemite  remains,  after  all,  untold.  Indeed,  its  charms  must  really  be  seen 
and  felt;  for  it  is  an  absolute  fact,  that  neither  pencil  nor  brush,  nor  photographic 
process,  can  give  them  faithful  protraiture." 

The  Yosemite  Valley  is  about  150  miles,  in  an 
almost  easterly  direction,  from  San  Francisco,  and 
nearly  midway  of  the  state,  between  the  northern 
and  southern  boundaries;  it  was  for  many  years  the 
rendezvous,  or  permanent  abiding  place,  of  hostile 
Indians,  who  had  a  legend  for  every  point  of  in- 
terest, whether  of  water  or  rock.  The  place  was 
first  seen  in  1850  by  a  number  of  white  men,  who 
had  formed  themselves  into  a  military  company  to 
punish  or  compel  peace  with  bands  of  murderous  Indians;  it  was  taken 
possession  of  in  March,  1851,  by  an  expedition  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Boling,  which  invaded  the  aboriginal  stronghold,  killed  several  of  its  defenders, 
and  either  stampeded  or  compelled  peace  with  the  rest.  The  valley  is  some 
15  miles  long,  by  about  one-third  of  that  distance  in  width,  and  is  undoubtedly 
the  most  wonderful  combination  of  chasm  and  dome,  cliff  and  canon,  mountain 
and   valley,    river   and    waterfall,    cataract    and    streamlet,    winter   and    summer, 

233 


YOSEMITE. 

A  Valley 

of   Wonders. 

The 

Climax 

of  Grandeur 

and 

Beauty. 

FALLS   OF    THE  YGSEMITE. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


235 


and  sunshine  and  shadow,  to  be  seen  in  the  world — especially  within  a  radiu9 
of  eight  or  ten  miles.  Among  the  most  noted  and  majestic  elevations,  which 
rise  right  up  vertically,  many  of  these  seeming  like  hewn  rock,  are:  El 
Capitan,  3,300  feet  above  the  floor  of  the  valley;  Cathedral  Rock,  2,660  feet 
above  the  valley;  Three  Brothers,  3,830  feet;  The  Sentinel,  3,043  feet,  with 
cascades  of  3,000  feet  fall,  Washington  Column,  1,875  feet;  Dome  and  Royal 
Arches,  3,568  feet,  down  which  descends  a  cataract  of  1,000  feet;  The  Half  Dome, 
4,737  feet;  Cloud's  Rest,  6,150  feet;  Glacier  Point,  3,200;  Sentinel  Dome,  4,150; 
Eagle  Point,  4,200,  and  many  others  of  greater  or  less  altitudes.  The  most  noted 
waterfalls  are  the  Yosemite,  which  first  displays  an  unbroken  descent  1,500  feet, 
then  600  feet  of  partly  hidden  cataracts,  and  a  final  leap  of  400  feet — 2,526  in  all; 
Bridal  Veil,  900  feet;  Vernal  Falls,  400,  and  Nevada  Falls,  600  feet.  There  are 
many  other  points  of  interest,  conspicuous  among  which  are  the  Merced  River, 
Mirror  Lake,  and  romantic  drives  and  climbs  without  number.  There  are  a 
number  of  good  hotels  in  the  valley,  and  tourists  are  driven  right  up  to  their  doors. 
The  best  time  for  visiting  the  falls  is  from  the  first  of  April  until  the  end  of  July; 
but  it  is  accessible  until  the  snows  of  November  close  up  its  means  of  ingress  and 
egress  for  several  months. 

The  Big  Trees.  Thirty-five  miles  from  Raymond  is  the  Wawona 
Hotel  (formerly  Clark's)  one  of  the  most  exquisite  spots  in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
There  is  an  abundance  of  game  near  by,  such  as  bear,  deer  (in  great  plenty), 
mountain  quail,  grouse  and  smaller  game,  while  the  adjacent  streams  abound  in 
trout.  It  is  from  this  hotel  that  tourists  make  their  pilgrimage  to  the  Mariposa 
Big  Tree  Grove,  which  is  six  miles,  and  is  made  in  a  carriage,  and  for  which  there 
is  no  extra  charge  for  those  holding  through  tickets  to  ard  from  the  Yosemite 
Valley.  In  this  mighty  grove  there  may  be  seen  a  large  number  of  trees  more 
than  300  feet  in  height,  and  varying  from  50  to  93  feet  in  circumference,  according 
to  Professor  Whitney's  official  measurement. 

The  Calaveras  Grove,  which  was  the  first  one  discovered  (by  a  hunter 
named  A.  T.  Dowd,  in  1S52),  has  a  magnificent  lot  of  mammoth  trees,  also  piercing 
the  clouds  at  heights  exceeding  300  feet,  and  measuring  80,  90  and  100  feet  around 
at  the  ground.  Most  of  these  have  marble  slabs  containing  the  names  of  distin- 
guished soldiers,  navigators,  statesmen,  poets,  travelers  and  authors.  The 
Calaveras  Grove  is  131  miles  from  San  Francisco  by  rail,  and  44  by  stage — 175 
miles  in  all.  The  Mammoth  Grove  Hotel  has  lately  been  enlarged,  and  can  now 
accommodate  one  hundred  guests.  There  is  a  post-office,  express  and  telegraph 
office  at  the  hotel.  It  faces  the  grove,  having  the  greater  number  of  trees  to  the 
left,  looking  from  the  veranda,  and  the  Two  Sentinels  immediately  in  the  front, 
about  two  hundred  yards  to  the  eastward.  The  valley  in  which  the  hotel  is 
situated  contains  of  the  Sequoia  trees,  ninety-three,  not  including  those  of  from  one 
to  ten  years'  growth. 


The  sequoia  is  a  represen 
tative  of  a  family  of  trees,  re- 
lated to  the  cypresses,  which 
has  survived  from  a  time 
more  ancient  than  almost 
my  other  family  of  trees.  Its  nearest 
relative  is  in  Japan.  The  name  was 
given  by  the  botanist,  Asa  Gray,  in 
honor  of  Sequoyah,  the  Cherokee 
chieftain.  Besides  the  S.  gigantea, 
there  is  still  another  species,  the  S. 
senipeivirens,  which  exists  in  forests 
along  the  seaward  side  of  the  Coast 
Range  from  San  Francisco  bay  north- 
ward for  over  ioo  miles.  It  is  these 
forests  which  furnish  the  celebrated 
redwood  lumber ;  and  an  illustrated 
article  by  Ernest  Ingersoll,  in  Har- 
per's Magazine  for  1882,  gives  an 
admirable  account  of  the  lumbering 
operations  by  which  these  mighty  trees 
are  utilized,  and  of  the  interesting 
scenes  in  and  about  the  region  in  which 
they  grow.  Many  specimens  of  the 
redwood  rival  their  big  cousins  near 
Yosemite  in  size,  and  the  whole  forest 
will  average  250  feet  in  height,  where 
full  grown. 


BIG    TREES    OF    CALAVERAS. 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  THE  GREAT 
NORTHWEST. 


LONG  reach  of  most  interesting  country  lies  between  San  Francisco 
and  Portland,  Oregon.  Seven  hundred  and  seventy  two  miles 
intervene  between  the  two  great  cities,  and  it  is  our  purpose  to 
take  the  reader  with  us  on  this  journey.  There  are  two  routes  by 
rail ;  and,  of  course,  the  ocean  highway  is  open  to  all  who  wish  to 
go  by  steamer.  The  rail  routes  are  east  of  the  Sacramento  River  to  Tehama,  and 
west  of  the  river  to  the  same  point,  125  miles  from  San  Francisco,  where  the  two 
lines  form  a  junction.  The  route  generally  taken  by  tourists  is  that  east  of  the 
river  ;  and  this  is  the  route  chosen  for  our  journey.  From  San  Francisco  we 
return  on  the  Overland  route  (by  which  we  entered  the  city)  as  far  as  Roseville 
Junction,  eighteen  miles  beyond  Sacramento.  Here  we  turn  northward,  leaving 
the  main  line  behind  us,  and  are  fairly  embarked  on  our  journey  to  the  Great 
Northwest. 

Lincoln  is  a  small  manufacturing  town,  where  great  quantities  of  pottery 
and  sewer  pipe  are  made.  (Population  600.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  119 
miles.     Elevation,  167  feet.) 

Passing  through  Sheridan,  a  village  surrounded  by  grazing  lands,  we 
come  to 

Wheatland.  Fitly  named,  it  being  in  the  centre  of  a  fine  wheat  region. 
The  town  is  well  built,  and  has  the  usual  complement  of  good  business  houses, 
churches,  schools,  etc.  (Population  600.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  130  miles. 
Elevation,  90  feet.) 

The  Yllha  River.  Leaving  Wheatland  we  are  soon  crossing  the  bottom 
lands  of  what  the  latest  maps  call  the  Bear  River,  but  which  "old  timers  "  know  as 
the  Yuba;  a  name  which,  it  seems  to  us,  should  by  all  means  be  retained.  The 
Yuba  is  here  a  vagrant  stream,  inclined  to  "  spread  itself  "  entirely  too  much  foi 
the  convenience  and  comfort  of  the  farmers;  hence,  it  has  been  confined  within 
great  dykes,  which  extend  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  up  and  down  the  river.  The 
road  crosses  the  bottoms  on  trestle  work. 

This  thriving  place  is  the  leading  town  of 
Northern  California,  the  depot  for  the  product  of 
Yuba  and  Sutter  Counties,  and  is  situated  at  the 
head  of  navigation  on  Feather  River  and  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Yuba.  It  has  a  population  of 
6,000.  It  is  known  throughout  California  as  being 
the  neatest  built  city  in  the  State.  Splendid  busi- 
ness blocks;  fine  residences;  magnificent  gardens, 
where  flowers  bloom  the  year  round;  best  of  schools 
and  academies;  eight  churches;  large  manufactur- 
ing interests;  flour  mills;  finest  woolen  mill  in  the 
State;  fruit  cannery;  iron  foundry,  etc.  The  city  is 
lighted  by  gas  and  electricity.  The  water  supply  is  considered  the  best  in  the 
State.     The  trade  of   Marysville  to-day  is  greater  than  any  town  north  of  Sacra- 

237 


MARYSVILLE. 

Flourishing 

Commercial  City. 

County  Seat  of  Yuba 

County. 

Population,  6,000. 

Distance  from 

SanFrancisco,143  Miles 

Elevation,  66  Feet. 


AitTTigl**!^ 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


239 


mento.  It  is  the  trade  centre  for  a  large  country  outside  of  Yuba  County.  It 
enjoys  the  trade  of  all  Yuba  and  Sutter,  and  part  of  Butte,  Colusa,  Sierra,  Placer 
and  Nevada  Counties.  Two  lines  of  railroad  enter  the  town,  and  a  third  is  now 
being  pushed  forward.  Ten  trains  a  day  enter  and  depart.  Steamers  and 
barges  ply  on  the  river,  carrying  freight  to  and  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  one  of 
the  terminal  points  on  the  railroad.  In  climate,  Marysville  can  not  be  be  excelled. 
No  extremes  of  heat  and  cold;  but  a  pleasant,  equable  temperature,  equal  to,  if  not 
the  superior  of,  the  climate  of  Italy.  Epidemic  diseases  of  any  kind  never  obtain 
a  footing  here;  Marysville  has  been  singularly  free  from  such  afflictions.  With 
the  fast  increasing  tide  of  immigration  which  is  now  turning  to  California,  and  with 
the  new  and  varied  industries  which  are  now  springing  up  here,  as  the  producing 
power  of  the  lands  are  becoming  known,  Marysville  will,  in  a  short  space  of  time, 
no  doubt,  be  one  of  the  leading  towns  of  California.  Frosts  are  very  rare,  and 
when  they  do  occur,  very  little  damage  to  vegetation  results,  owing  to  the  great 


SIR    JOSEPH    HOOKER    OAK,    CHICO   VECINO. 
29  Feet  in  Circumference. 

dryness  of  the  atmosphere.    The  same  characteristics  also  make  life  very  enjoyable, 
and  render  this  section  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  State. 

Oroville  is  situated  on  the  Feather  River,  28  miles  from  Marysville.  It  is 
the  northern  terminus  of  the  Northern  California  Railroad,  which  runs  from 
Marysville,  28  miles  to  the  south.  The  town  is  well  built,  the  business  buildings 
being  of  brick,  and  the  residences  are  almost  universally  neat  and  handsome, 
surrounded  with  lawns  set  with  a  wealth  of  flowers,  palms  and  blooming  orange 
trees.  The  church  and  school  facilities  are  all  that  could  be  desired.  One  daily 
and  two  weekly  papers  are  published.  There  is  abundant  water-power  awaiting 
the  establishment  of  manufactories,  and  a  flouring  mill  and  a  large  sash  and  door 
factory  are  now  in  operation.  But  the  glory  of  Oroville  is  mainly  in  the  region 
about  it.  The  western  part  of  Butte  County,  near  the  Sacramento  River,  is 
level,  the  eastern  part  includes  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains, 
while  the  central  portion  consists  of  low  foothills,  gradually  increasing  in  altitude, 


240  OVER    THE    RANGE 

as  the  mountains  are  neared.  This  strip  of  sloping  foothills,  twenty  miles  in 
width,  consists  of  a  rich,  gravelly  soil,  remarkably  productive.  The  climate  of  this 
region,  which  is  known  as  the  "Thermal  Belt,"  is  of  peculiar  salubrity,  being 
milder  both  in  winter  and  summer  than  in  the  lower  portion  of  the  valley,  and 
resembling  that  of  the  most  favored  countries  about  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  The 
summer's  heat  is  here  tempered  to  an  even  mildness,  and  in  the  winter  the  forma 
tion  of  thin  ice  in  the  open  air  is  of  rare  occurrence.  Snow  is  a  natural  curiosity, 
and  outdoor  work  is  uninterrupted  the  year  round.  The  average  rainfall  is  about 
22  inches.  Experiment  has  shown  that  the  conditions  of  climate  and  soii  make 
this  region  the  natural  home  of  the  orange,  olive,  lemon,  fig  and  other  semi-tropical 
fruits,  while  all  the  known  deciduous  fruits,  including  the  hardy  apple,  flourish  and 
yield  in  unsurpassed  abundance.  When,  at  the  Northern  California  Citrus  Fair, 
held  in  January,  1886,  Butte  County  was  awarded  the  first  premium,  the  people  of 
the  county  awoke  to  the  fact  that  they  lived  in  a  fine  orange-producing  region, 
and  since  then  great  numbers  of  orange  orchards  have  been  planted.  Each 
December  since  then  a  great  citrus  fair  has  been  held  at  Oroville,  and  so 
marked  has  been  their  success,  and  so  wonderful  their  revelations  and  their 
magnificence,  that  Oroville  is  rapidly  becoming  as  noted  as  Riverside.  While 
citrus  fruits  made  up  the  most  important  features  of  these  fairs,  all  the  products  of 
the  county  were  also  represented,  and  the  Butte  County  Citrus  Fairs  are  un- 
doubtedly the  greatest  show  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth  ever  gathered  together  under 
one  roof,  including  the  fruits  of  nearly  all  climes,  and  all  produced  in  one  county. 
The  country  about  Oroville  is  undoubtedly  the  greatest  fruit-producing  region  in 
the  State,  offering  great  inducements  to  settlers,  while  it  is  equally  wealthy  in  a 
great  variety  of  other  resources. 

Returning  to  Marysville  we  resume  our  northward  flight,  the  Sacramento 
Valley  being  on  our  left,  while  the  Valley  of  the  Rio  de  Los  Plumas,  or,  as  it  is  now 
popularly  called,  the  Feather  River  Valley,  is  on  our  right.  Following  this  course 
we  pass  through  Live  Oak,  Gridley,  Biggs,  Nelson,  Dunham,  and  arrive  at 

The  largest  town  in  Butte  County,  Chico, 
situated  on  Chico  Creek,  five  miles  from  the  Sacra- 
mento River,  and  on  the  line  of  the  California  & 
Oregon  Railroad.  Chico  is  the  centre  of  the  finest 
agricultural  portion  of  the  county  —  perhaps  the 
finest  in  the  State.  The  famous  "  Rancho  Chico 
property  of  Gen.  John  Bidwell  adjoins  the  town  en 
the  north,  the  rich  and  varied  fruits  of  which  have 
attracted  such  marked  attention  at  all  fairs  and 
expositions  throughout  the  United  States.  Chico 
Creek  is  a  clear  and  beautiful  mountain  stream,  flow- 


CHICO 

An  Ideal  Residence 
City. 

Population,    6,000. 

Distance 

from  San  Francisco, 

186  miles. 

Elevation,  193  feet. 


ing  sufficient  water  all  the  year  to  supply  power  for  Gen.  BidwelPs  large  flour  mill, 
until  its  capacity  was  so  enlarged  as  to  require  the  supplemental  aid  of  steam. 
Steamers  run  on  the  Sacramento  River  to  Chico  Landing  and  points  above,  carry- 
ing immense  quantities  of  grain  to  the  bay  on  barges.  Chico  is  a  beautiful  city, 
and  its  population  is  principally  American,  agriculture  and  its  adjunct  employ- 
ments being  the  chief  elements  of  its  life.  But  it  has  also  tributary  to  it  a  fine 
mining  region,  up  Butte  Creek,  and  an  immense  lumber  region  to  the  east  and 
north.  In  this  latter  there  are  five  or  six  large  mills  at  work.  A  V-flume  comes 
to  the  city  from  the  mountains,  in  which  the  lumber  is  floated  from  the  mills  to  the 
town,  so  rapidly  that  a  few  years- ago  a  beam  of  timber  was  sawn  in  the  mill,  thirty 
miles  away,  flumed  to  Chico,  drawn  through  the  town  to  the  water-works  building, 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE. 


241 


fitted  for  its  purpose  and  wrought  into  the  building,  all  within  the  working  hours 
of  a  single  day.  Chico  has  a  regular  town  government,  with  police  officers  and  an 
excellent  fire  department,  which  owns  two  steam  fire  engines.  It  has  gas  and 
water-works,  and  is  supplied  with  electric  light.  There  are  two  banks  in  flourish- 
ing condition.  Seven  churches,  representing  as  many  denominations,  adorn  the 
city,  and  two  large  and  elegant  public  school  buildings  and  two  private  academies 
are  filled  with  children.  The  streets  are  wide,  well  kept  and  shaded.  Very  many 
private  residences  are  large  and  handsome,  and  the  homes  of  the  people  all  indi- 
cate intelligence  and  comfort. 

Chico  VecillO.     This  is  an  attractive  suburb  of  Chico,  included  within  the 

boundaries  of  the  well  known  Rancho  Chico. 
There  are  one  thousand  acres  in  the  town  site, 
the  plat  of  which  has  been  laid  off  in  five-acre 
tracts.  Here  there  will  soon  be  one  of  those 
delightful  fruit-raising  colonies  for  which  Cali- 
fornia is  becoming  famous.  From  Chico  to 
Tehama  we  roll  along  through  a  fine  fruit  and 
agricultural  country,  passing  the  stations  of 
Vina,  Nord,  Anita,  Cana,  Soto  and  Sesma. 

Tehama  is  the  junction  of  ihe  Willows 
Branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  with 
the  main  line.  It  is  situated  in  a  good  wheat- 
growing  country  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Sac- 
ramento River,  and  here  irrigation  is  not  found 
necessary  for  the  production  of  crops.  Stock- 
raising  and  lumbering  are  large  tributary  in- 
dustries. (Population,  700.  Distance  from  Sa-.i 
Francisco,  213  miles.    Elevation,  222  feet.) 

Seven  miles  beyond  Tehama  we  pass 
through  Rawson,  and  five  miles  farther  on  reach 
Red  Bluff,  the  county-seat  of  Tehama 
County  which  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  towns 
of  the  State.  It  is  a  growing  town  in  one  of 
the  richest  sections,  and  it  has  an  elevated  and 
sightly  location.  Its  streets  are  wide  and  well 
graded,  lighted  by  electricity;  and  there  is  no 
place  in  the  United  States  better  drained.  The 
Sacramento  River  here  is  a  clear,  rapid  stream, 
lined  with  beautiful  trees  and  vines.  On  all  the 
three  other  sides  there  are  ravines  or  valleys 
through  which  streams  run,  which  give  the 
perfection  of  drainage.  Its  public  and  business  buildings  are  fine  archi- 
tectural structures;  and  its  private  residences  are  nowhere  excelled  for  taste,, 
elegance,  and  the  beauty  and  the  wealth  of  their  floral  surroundings.  The  streets 
are  lined  with  popular,  elm,  white  maple,  locust,  acacia  and  pepper  trees,  which 
will  soon  make  a  veritable  forest  city.  There  are  also  many  fine  residences. 
Tehama  County  is  the  great  grain-growing  county  of  the  State;  8,000,000 
bushels  of  wheat  and  2,500,000  bushels  of  barley  have  been  harvested  in  one  season 
from  its  fertile  lands  Tehama  has  about  400,000  sheep,  which  produce  2,500,000 
pounds  of  wool  annually.  The  numbers  of  cattle,  horses,  mules  and  swine  are  large. 
In  this  county  the  celebrated  Vina  Ranch  is  located,  embracing  56,000  acres,  a 


ON    THE    RIO    CHICO. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


2*3 


princely  property,  which,  through  the  unexampled  generosity  of  Senator  and  Mrs. 
Stanford,  has  become  the  heritage  of  the  children  and  of  the  coming  generations  of 
the  Pacific  Coast.  (Population,  3,500.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  225  miles. 
Elevation,  307  feet.) 

The  grade  is  now  steadily  upward  as  we  press  onward  in  our  journey.     From 
Red  Bluff  to  Sissons,  a  distance  of   113  miles,  we  make  an  ascent  of  3,245  feet. 


rWIN     FALLS. 


Through  a  broken  country,  and  crossing  a  number  of  rapidly  flowing  creeks,  we 
pass  through  Hopker  and  Cottonwood  (small  stations)  and  arrive  at 

Anderson.  Which  is  a  beautiful  and  very  lively  town  of  1,500  inhabitants. 
on  the  line  of  the  California  &  Oregon  Railroad.  It  lies  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  Sacramento  River,  8  miles  south  of  Redding,  and  222  miles  north  of  Sacra- 
mento. The  town  is  attractively  laid  out,  with  wide,  well  shaded  streets, 
lined  with  cosy  and  beautiful  homes.  The  leading  hotel  in  the  place  is  a  fine 
one,  costing  $20,000.     There  are  fine  schools  ;  the  usual  churches  ;  a  fine  roller 


244  OVER    THE    RANGE 

flouring  mill;  good,  substantial  brick  business  buildings;  water  works,  furnishing 
an  abundant  supply  of  pure  water  from  the  mountains;  and  a  live  weekly  paper, 
besides  many  other  evidences  of  enterprise  and  progress.  The  semi-tropical 
climate  of  the  Sacramento  Valley  generally  prevails  in  the  region  about  Anderson, 
which  is  noted  for  its  healthfulness.  The  summers  are  rather  warm,  though  dry, 
and  the  mercury  rarely  reaches  105  degrees,  85  degrees  being  about  the  average. 
The  winter,  or  rainy  season,  is  delightful,  and  resembles  April  or  May  in  the 
Eastern  States.  (Population,  750.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  249  miles. 
Elevation,  432  feet.) 

Redding'.  No  town  of  Northern  California  has  a  more  promising  future, 
and  exhibits  at  the  present  time  more  enterprise,  activity  and  rapidity  of  growth 
than  Redding,  in  the  southwestern  part  of  Shasta  County,  of  which  it  is  the 
county-seat.  It  is  at  the  upper  end  of  the  great  Sacramento  Valley.  169  miles 
north  of  Sacramento,  and  is  built  on  a  plateau  on  the  bank  of  the  Sacramento 
River,  here  a  clear  mountain  stream  which  sweeps  around  the  town  to  the  east  and 
south.  No  town  in  the  State  has  a  more  charming  and  picturesque  location.  The 
brief  history  of  Redding  is  one  of  rapid  progress,  and  never  has  it  been  more 
marked  than  now.  Its  population  has  increased  from  500  in  1883  to  over  2,oco  at 
the  present  time,  and  with  the  rapid  development  of  the  county,  which  will  follow 
the  recent  completion  of  the  first  railroad  through  this  region,  and  the  vast  territory 
that  must  remain  tributary  to  Redding,  extending  in  some  directions  a  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  a  rapid  and  continued  growth  is  assured.  The  city  has  water  and 
gas  works,  a  great  variety  of  manufactories,  many  important  buildings,  a  fine 
court  house  and  jail,  two  newspapers,  good  schools  and  several  churches.  The 
river  here  affords  fine  water  power  and  the  lumber  interests  of  the  country  trib- 
utary to  Redding  are  immense.  The  future  of  this  lively  place  depends  largely 
on  the  development  of  the  country  about  it ;  and  with  the  great  variety  of  soil, 
climate  and  products,  the  thousands  of  acres  of  cheap,  unoccupied  lands  that  only 
await  intelligent  cultivation  to  yield  great  profits,  and  with  the  other  almost  inex- 
haustible resources  which  the  country  possesses,  there  can  be  no  question  on  this 
point.  During  the  past  few  years  the  country  has  made  rapid  strides,  many  set- 
tlers have  invested,  building  has  amounted  almost  to  a  boom,  new  industries 
started,  and  thousands  of  acres  of  orchards  and  vineyards  have  been  planted. 
No  part  of  California  offers  such  inducements  to  the  farmer,  the  laboring  man,  the 
capitalist,  or  the  home-seeker,  as  Shasta  County.  There  is  a  delightful  semi- 
tropical  climate  in  the  valleys  and  plateaus  of  the  scuth,  and  a  gradual  change  is 
noted  as  higher  altitudes  are  reached,  that  of  the  mountains  resembling  the  New 
England  States.  The  climate  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  county  is  indicated 
by  the  fact  that  orange  trees  flourish  and  bear  abundantly.  The  county  is  noted 
for  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  clear,  sparkling  streams,  which  burst  from  the 
mountains  through  wild,  picturesque  canons,  and  flow  onward  through  small  fertile 
valleys  of  great  beauty.  In  these  mountain  streams  the  finest  trout-fishing  in  the 
State  is  found.  (Population,  2,500.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  260  miles. 
Elevation,  551  feet.) 

Wild  Scenery.  After  leaving  Redding  our  course  is  directly  toward 
the  Shasta  Range  of  mountains,  and  the  scenery  grows  in  grandeur  as  we  advance. 
Within  a  distance  of  80  miles  we  cross  the  Sacramento  River  eighteen  times,  and 
pass  through  just  an  even  dozen  of  tunnels.  Grander  and  grander  grows  the  scene 
as  we  advance.  The  roll  of  stations  as  given  in  the  railroad  time  tables  gives  no 
idea  of  the  beauty  which  surrounds  these  villages,  but  as  a  matter  of  record  we 
will  name  them  as  follows:    Middle  Creek,  Copley,    Kennet,  Morley,    Elmore, 


SHASTA. 

The  Monarch    of  the 

Range. 

Altitude:  14,440  feet 

above  the  Sea. 

Local  Elevation: 

10,885   feet. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  245 

Smithson,  Delta,  Slatons,  Gibson,  Chromite,  Sims,  Castle  Crag,  Lower  Soda 
Springs,  Chestnut,  Dunsmuir,  Upper  Soda  Springs,  Cantara,  Mott,  McCioud  and 
Sisson.  The  Soda  Springs  mentioned  above  are  of  interest  to  the  tourist  and 
health  seeker,  being  medicinal  in  their  qualities,  and  having  good  hotel  accommo- 
dations. The  Lower  Spring  is  two  miles  below  Dunsmuir,  and  the  Upper  Spring 
one  mile  above.  Beyond  Upper  Soda  Springs  we  pass  through  a  tremendous 
gorge,  whose  beetling  crags  tower  above  our  heads,  and  before  McCioud  is  reached 
we  circle  the  Big  Bend  of  the  Sacramento  River,  traveling  over  five  miles  to  gain 
an  advance  of  half  a  mile;  but  it  must  be  considered  that  we  have  also  gained  an 
additional  elevation,  nearly  six  hundred  feet.  At  Castle  Crag  is  the  famous 
"  Tavern  of  Cast'e  Crag  "  a  resort  of  growing  prominence,  from  which  excursions 
to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Shasta  are  easily  made. 

As  we  near  Sisson,  Mount  Shasta,  of  which  we 
have  obtained  brief  glimpses  through  the  pines, 
bursts  into  full  view  in  all  its  sublime  magnificence. 
This  noted  snow  capped  peak,  towers  to  the  height 
of  14,440  feet.  It  is  an  extinct  volcano,  and  its 
snows  and  glaciers  feed  hundreds  of  streams  which 
thread  the  wild  region  in  every  direction.  Sisson  is 
a  regular  meal  station,  situated  in  Strawberry  Val- 
ley, one  of  the  most  beautiful  vales  of  California. 
It  is  a  new  but  rapidly  growing  town,  with  stores, 
hotels,  a  weekly  paper,  a  fine  depot,  and  a  round- 
house and  repair  shops.  Here  is  obtained  the  finest 
view  of  Shasta,  and  it  is  the  only  convenient  point  from  which  the  ascent  can  be 
made.  But  few  parties  succeed  in  reaching  the  summit,  and  the  attempt  is  only 
.made  in  midsummer  and  then  with  trusty  guides.  The  feat  is  exciting,  but  the 
view  is  grand  beyond  description.  The  region  about  Sisson  is  a  paradise  for  the 
sportsman  and  the  lover  of  nature.  Grizzly,  black  and  cinnamon  bears  abound  ; 
elk,  deer  and  mountain  sheep  are  plenty,  as  well  as  a  great  variety  of  smaller  game. 
The  mountain  streams  teem  with  trout,  and  often  the  sport  loses  its  zest  through 
the  very  abundance  of  the  beauties.  The  McCioud  and  the  Pitt  Rivers  are  the 
most  noted  streams,  though  others  are  equally  attractive.  The  McCioud  runs 
through  the  most  uninhabited  and  unexplored  region  on  the  coast.  No  region  in 
the  State  is  so  delightful  for  camping,  and  hundreds  of  parties  go  there  every 
year.  At  Sisson,  camping  and  hunting  parties  can  be  provided  with  complete  out- 
fits at  moderate  cost.  As  has  been  said,  Sisson  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Shasta,  and  is  noted  for  its  magnificent  scenic  attractions.  From  Redding  north- 
ward the  California  &  Oregon  road  is  the  scenic  route  of  California  ;  and  at  Sisson, 
at  the  base  of  Mount  Shasta,  80  miles  north  of  Redding,  the  acme  of  interest  is 
reached.  While  there  are  many  places  in  California  replete  with  beauty  and 
grandeur,  there  are  none  which,  for  infinite  variety  of  scenery,  wildness  and 
abundance  of  everything  to  delight  the  sportsman,  artist  and  tourist,  can  compare 
with  the  region  about  Sisson.  (Population,  250.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
338  miles.     Elevation,  3,555  feet.) 

Mllir's  Peak.  After  leaving  Sisson  we  circle  the  base  of  Muir's  Peak, 
locally  known  as  "  Black  Butte,"  which  rises  to  a  perpendicular  height  of  3,00c 
feet  above  our  heads.     It  is  black,  bare  and  desolate, — an  extinct  volcano,  with 


jngHf  , 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  247 

half  a  dozen  craters  in  plain  view.  We  are  now  among  the  mountains,  and  pass 
in  succession  the  stations  of  Igerna,  Edgewood,  Gazelle,  Grenada,  Montague, 
Snowden,  Ager,  Hornbrook.  Zuleka  and  Coles. 

The  State  Line.  Two  miles  beyond  Coies  station  we  cross  the  State 
line,  and,  entering  Oregon,  begin  the  ascent  of  the  Siskiyou  Mountains.  This 
ascent  is  a  wonder  of  railway  engineering.  The  statistical  facts  concerning  this 
achievement  may  be  condensed  as  follows: 

Elevation  at  State  Line 2,859  feet 

Coles  Springs    3.775 

Tunnel  No.   13 3,108 

"  Tunnel  No.    15 3  710 

Tunnel  No.  16. 2,977 

Length  of  Tunnel  No.  13 4,160 

The  mathematician  has  the  advantage  here.  He  can  tell  exactly  the  fr<*ts  concern 
ing  this  great  work;  but  the  descriptive  writer  strives  in  vain  to  convey  to  the 
reader  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  scene.  The  southern  slope  of  the  range 
is  denuded  of  trees,  while  the  northern  side  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of 
pine. 

Siskiyou  Station.  This  is  the  summit  of  the  range,  and  the  highest 
point  on  the  entire  line,  being  4,135  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  mountain 
view  from  this  coign  of  vantage  is  indescribably  magnificent.  To  the  east  is  the 
Cascade  Range,  extending  to  the  north  for  full  four  hundred  miles;  to  the  northeast 
is  Mount  Pitt,  while  still  farther  on  are  Mounts  Scott,  Threlson  and  Diamond 
Peak, — monarchs  of  the  Cascades.  To  the  west  are  the  peaks  of  the  Siskiyou  and 
Coast  Ranges;  to  the  south  are  the  Two  Sisters,  Mount  Lassen,  and  above  all 
imperial  Shasta  rears  his  head.  Lakes,  rivers  and  valleys  lie  spread  out  before  us 
like  a  map;  and,  in  a  word,  for  variety,  grandeur,  beauty  and  extent,  this  view  has 
no  equal  on  the  continent. 

Asllland.  At  the  foot  of  the  Siskiyou  Range,  on  the  eastern  slope,  is 
situated  this  beautiful  little  town,  in  a  delightful  valley.  The  town  was  established 
in  1850;  and  in  1887,  on  December  17,  Mr.  Charles  Crocker,  of  San  Francisco, 
drove  the  last  spike  which  completed  the  railroad  connection  between  California 
and  Oregon.  The  town  of  Ashland  has  entered  upon  a  season  of  great  prosperity, 
being  the  seat  of  the  State  Normal  School,  and  having  the  White  Sulphur  Springs 
within  near  proximity.  It  is  a  large  shipping  point  for  wheat,  and  also  for  fruit. 
(Population,  2,000.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  431  miles.  Elevation,  1,891 
feet.) 

Rolling  along  through  the  valley  we  pass  Phcenix  and  Medford,  prosperous 
towns  of  moderate  size. 

Jacksonville  is  the  county-seat  of  Jackson  County,  and  is  connected  with 
Medford.  four  miles  distant,  by  stage.  (Population,  1,200.  Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  450  miles.     Elevation,  1,399  ^eet- ) 

Rogue  River  Valley.  We  are  now  in  the  Rogue  River  Valley,  and  are 
following  the  stream  in  its  downward  course.  The  valley  averages  about  three 
miles  in  width,  with  high  hills  on  each  side,  covered  with  a  strong  growth  of 
grass  and  in  places  heavily  timbered.  The  products  of  this  valley  are  berries,  nuts 
and  fruit.  Fishing  and  hunting  can  be  found  here  of  the  best  quality.  The 
stations  which  follow  Medford,  are:  Gold  Hill,  Grant's  Pass,  Merlin,  Aeta. 
Almaden,  Glendale,  Riddles,  Myrtle  Creek,  Oak  Grove,  Dillard  and  Greens. 


TO     THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  249 


SCENIC 

ATTRACTIONS. 

A  Panorama    of 

the 

Grand  and  Beautiful 

in  Nature. 


For  a  stretch  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  from  Grant's  Pass,  the  country  presents  a 
wonderful  panorama  of  grand  and  beautiful  scenery. 
Mountains  are  all  around  us.  To  the  right  the 
Cascade  Range,  to  the  left  the  Coast  Range. 
Gorges  before  us!  —  canons  behind  us!  Little 
valleys  of  entrancing  loveliness  are  crossed;  spark- 
ling streams  abound,  forests  of  oaks  and  pines,  of 
hemlocks  and  madrones  are  threaded;  in  a  word, 
the  variety  is  infinite,  the  beauty  indescribable. 
Roseburg-  is  the  county-seat  of  Douglas  County.  Through  the  town  flow 
the  Umpqua  River  and  Deer  Creek,  which  furnish  water-power  and  a  plentiful 
supply  of  pure  water  for  domestic  purposes.  Agriculture,  horticulture  and 
pastoral  industries  are  tributary.  (Population,  1,500.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
574  miles.     Elevation,  487  feet.) 

Tile  Valley  of  the  Unipqua.  This  valley,  situated  between  the 
Coast  Range  of  mountains  and  the  Calapooias,  is  exceedingly  fertile,  being 
especially  adapted  to  agriculture  and  the  growing  of  fruit.  The  valley  ranks  third 
in  size  among  those  of  Oregon,  those  of  the  Willamette  and  Umatilla  being  greater 
in  area.  A  historical  interest  attaches  itself  to  the  Umpqua  Valley,  for  in  its  qui  t 
confines  lie  the  remains  of  the  brave  soldier  and  public-spirited  citizen.  General 
Joseph  Lane.  His  grave  is  in  a  little  churchyard,  a  mile  from  Roseburg.  After 
leaving  Roseburg,  the  stations  occur  in  the  following  order:  Wilbur,  Oakland, 
Rice  Hill,  Youcalla,  Drains  and  Comstocks. 

Divide  is  on  the  water-shed  between  the  waters  of  the  Umpqua  and 
Williamette  Rivers.  Latham,  Cottage  Grove,  Walkers,  Creswell,  Goshen  and 
Springfield  are  the  succeeding  stations. 

Ellg'eiie  is  the  county-seat  of  Lane  County,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Willamette  River,  and  is  a  thriving,  prosperous  town.  Here  has  been 
established  the  University  of  Oregon,  which  is  one  of  the  leading  educational 
institutions  of  the  State.  The  Willamette  is  navigable  from  Portland  to  this  point 
for  steamers  of  light  draught;  but  freight  traffic  is  now  carried  mainly  by  the  rail- 
road. This  is  a  fine  agricultural  and  fruit  country,  and  shipments  of  these 
products  from  Eugene  are  large.  (Population,  4,200.  Distance  from  San 
Francisco,  649  miles.     Elevation,  455  feet.) 

Beyond  Eugene  are  Irving,  Junction  City,  Harrisburg,  Muddy,  Halsey, 
Shedds,  Tangent  and  Albany  Junction. 

Albany,  the  county-seat  of  Linn  County,  is  an  enterprising,  growing  town. 
For  a  country  which  eastern  people  consider  so  "  new,"  this  town  has  great 
"antiquity,"  having  been  established  in  1848.  Here  is  located  the  Albany 
College  and  other  schools  of  excellent  quality.  The  town  has  good  business  and 
private  buildings,  water  works, — in  fact  all  of  the  modern  improvements.  (Popu- 
lation. 5,000.  -  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  692  miles.     Elevation,  240  feet.) 

Millers,  Jefferson,  Marion  and  Turner  are  the  stations  passed  after  leaving 
Albany  before  Salem  is  reached. 

Salem  is  the  State  capital  and  the  county-seat  of  Marion  County.  It  is 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Willamette  River,  which  furnishes  unlimited  water- 
power.  Here  are  located  the  State  institutions,  including  the  Insane  Asylum,  the 
School  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Blind,  the  Penitentiary  and  the  Indian  Train- 
ing School.  Steamers  ply  regularly  between  Portland  and  Salem,  and  the  amount 
of  lumber   shipped   annually  exceeds  three   million  feet.     The  Capitol   Building 


250  OVER    THE    RANGE 

occupies  an  entire  block,  and  may  be  seen  from  the  car  windows,  to  our  left,  after 
leaving  the  depot.  It  need  not  be  said  that  Salem  is  a  well-built,  prosperous  city, 
for  the  fact  that  it  is  the  State  capital  makes  such  a  statement  superfluous. 
(Population,  6,000.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  720  miles.  Elevation,  190 
feet.) 

After  we  have  left  Salem  we  pass  the  State  Fair  grounds,  two  miles  from  the 
city,  and  four  miles  farther  on  Chemawa  is  reached,  which  is  the  immediate  site  of 
the  Indian  Training  School.  Beyond  are  the  stations  of  Brooks,  Woodburn, 
Hubbard,  Aurora,  Barlow,  Canby,  New  Era  and  Canema. 

Oregon  City  is  the  county-seat  of  Clackamas  County,  and  is  noted  for  its 
magnificent  water-power,  being  located  at  the  great  falls  of  the  Willamette  River. 
Here  were  constructed  the  canal  and  lock  system  which  make  the  Willamette 
navigable  beyond  the  falls.  This  system  cost  half  a  million  dollars.  Oregon  City 
is  a  thriving  town  boasting  all  the  modern  improvements,  and  doing  a  large  busi- 
ness. (Population,  3.200.  Distance  from  San  Francisco,  575  miles.  Elevation, 
95  feet.) 

Beyond  Oregon  City  we  pass  through  the  following  stations:  Clackamas, 
Milwaukee,  Wellsburg,  Machine  Shops  and  East  Portland.  These  are  really 
suburbs  of  Portland,  as  the  distance  between  Oregon  City  and  Portland  is  only  15 
miles. 

This  metropolitan  city,  with  its  population  of 
eighty-two  thousand  souls,  sits  on  the  west  bank  of 
the' Willamette  River,  twelve  miles  from  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Columbia,  and  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
miles,  by  river,  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  first 
settlers  came  here  in  1843,  and  in  1851  the  settle- 
ment was  incorporated  as  a  city.  It  is  now  the 
metropolis  of  the  Pacific  Northwest,  and  the  third 
richest  city  in  the  world,  in  proportion  of  the  wealth 
to  per  capita  of  population.  On  the  east  side  of 
the  Willamette,  directly  opposite  Portland,  is  the  city  of  East  Portland,  and  on  the 
same  side,  to  the  northward,  around  the  bend  of  the  river,  the  city  of  Albina, 
both  of  which  contain  a  population  of  about  ten  thousand  souls,  and  are  con- 
nected  with  Portland  by  two  bridges.  Numerous  ferry  boats  also  ply  on  the  river 
between  Portland  and  her  trans-Willamette  suburbs.  Thus,  there  are  clustered 
here  under  three  corporate  names,  a  community  of  sixty  thousand  people,  whose 
business  intermingles,  and  who  are  actively  engaged  in  its  diversified  industries. 

The  favorable  position  which  Portland  occupies  for  an  important  commercial 
city,  can  be  best  understood  by  gaining  a  knowledge  of  its  location,  relative  to  a 
large  area  of  very  rich  country.  The  Willamette  Valley,  at  the  foot  of  which 
Portland  is  situated,  contains  four  million  acres  of  land,  and  its  products  are 
abundant  to  furnish  sustenance  for  over  a  million  people.  Most  of  this  territory 
is  now  under  cultivation.  Wheat  has  been  the  chief  crop  raised,  but  other  cereals, 
root  crops  and  fruits  are  now  occupying  the  attention  of  the  farmers,  and  on 
the  slopes  of  the  mountains  that  border  the  valley,  stock-raising  and  dairying 
are  found  to  be  profitable  industries.  The  finest  flavored  fruits  in  the  world  are 
raised  here — apples,  pears,  prunes,  peaches,  plums,  small  fruits,  melons,  etc.  In 
fact,  all  the  products  of  the  temperate  zone  can  be  successfully  grown  in  the 
Willamette  Vailey.  The  surplus  product  of  this  fertile  valley,  of  course,  flows 
through  Portland,  to  which  port  it  is  transported  by  boats  which  ply  on  the 
Willamette,  and  railroads  which  penetrate  the  country  on  each  side  of  the  river. 


PORTLAND. 

The  Metropolis  of  the 
Pacific  Northwest. 

A  City  of  Magnificent 

Achievements  and 

High  Hopes. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


251 


The  Columbia  River,  before  piercing  the  Cascade  Mountains,  flows  through  and 
drains  a  tract  of  country  more  than  four  times  as  large  as  the  State  of  New  York, 
and  with  a  soil  of  wonderful  productiveness.  The  improvement  of  that  vast  region 
is  scarcely  begun,  yet  the  product  has  already  grown  beyond  the  facilities  for 
moving  it,  though  they  are  great,  and  beyond  all  expectations.  But  the  trans- 
portation facilities  are  increas- 
ing rapidly,  and  that  trouble 
will  not  last.  Anything  that 
can  be  grown  on  fertile  soil 
in  a  mild  climate  is  produced 
in  this  basin  in  abundance,  and 
from  Idaho,  Washington  Ter- 
ritory and  Oregon,  a  constant 
stream  flows  to  Portland. 

The  mines  of  Oregon,  in- 
cluding those   of    gold,  silver, 
iron,  copper,  etc.,  and  the  vast 
mineral    output    of     Montana,    r 
Idaho    and    Washington    con-   § 
tribute  an  important  amount  to    -n 
the  business  of  this  commercial   o 
metropolis.     The   timber    pro- 
duct is  by  no  means  inconsider-   J; 
able,  large  quantities  of  lumber 
being     annually     turned     out.    > 
The    most     extensive    salmon    * 
fishing   in   the  world,  and   the 
general  piscatorial   indusry    of 
the   Columbia  and  Willamette 
Rivers,  have  their  main  springs 
of  capital  in  Portland.    Situated 
as  she  is,  at  the  gateway  to  the 
regions     mentioned,     the      re- 
sources of  which  are  practically 
illimitable     and     easily    trans- 
ported on  the  rivers  that  drain 
them,  being  accessible  to  ocean 
craft,  and  having  a  demand  for 
trade  from  across  the  sea,  being 
at   a   point    of   interchange   of 
foreign    and    domestic    traffic, 
having  a  situation  favorable  for 
utilizing  these  various  agencies 

for    promoting    growth,    Port-        ^ &■&!«  _..  __   _^ — A 

land    certainly  possesses   advantages   of    location    equaled   by    few   cities    in   the 
world. 

There  are  five  lines  of  railroad  centering  in  Portland.  The  Northern  Pacific 
runs  north  to  Tacoma,  thence  east  to  St.  Paul.  It  also  connects,  at  Wallula 
Junction,  with  the  O.  R.  &  N.,  making  a  shorter  route  from  Portland  to  the  East. 
The  Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation  Company  has  a  line  passing  up  the  Columbia 
River  to  Wallula  Junction,  and  branching  out  into  various  feeders,  built  and  in 


CAPE    HORN,    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


LOWER    CAPE    HORN.    COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE.  253 

process  of  construction,  ramifying  the  south-central  portion  of  the  great  Inland 
Empire.  The  connection  of  the  O.  R.  &  N.  with  the  Union  Pacific  gives  a  direct 
trans  continental  line  between  Portland  and  Omaha.  The  Southern  Pacific  Com- 
pany has  leased  the  Oregon  &  California  Railway,  which  has  been  completed,  and 
this,  besides  affording  a  rail  route  between  Portland  and  San  Francisco,  gives  a 
through  line,  under  one  management,  from  Portland,  via  New  Orleans,  to  New 
York.  This  road  runs  southward  through  the  Willamette  Valley.  Another  line 
of  the  Oregon  &  California  starts  from  Portland,  and,  running  up  the  west  side  of 
the  river,  forms  a  valuable  feeder,  penetrating  the  heart  of  the  garden  of  Oregon. 
This  line  connects,  at  Corvallis,  with  the  Oregon  Pacific,  extending  westward  to 
Yaquina  Bay,  and  will  soon  reach  a  rich  but  as  yet  undeveloped  region  in  Eastern 
Oregon.  Then  the  Yamhill  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  affords 
another  outlet  for  the  valley  through  Portland.  Thus,  this  city  is  made  a  terminus 
for  three  trans-continental  railway  systems  and  has  all  the  advantages  of  five  local 
roads,  besides  the  water  transportation  on  the  Willamette  and  Columbia  Rivers 
and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  Canadian  Pacific  is  also  competing  for  Portland  busi- 
ness, running  a  steamer  between  here  and  Vancouver,  B.  C  ,  to  connect  with  its 
China  line  of  steamers,  and  bidding  eagerly  for  freight  and  passenger  business  be- 
tween Portland  and  the  Eastern  States.  The  Northern  Pacific  Terminal  Company 
has  erected  shops  in  Albina,  at  a  cost  of  over  $500,000,  with  a  capacity  for  the 
employment  of  a  thousand  men.  The  company  owns  nearly  eight  thousand  feet 
of  water  front.  Besides  the  shops,  there  are  large  grain  warehouses,  coal  bunkers, 
and  a  dry  dock,  owned  by  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation  Company. 

On  the  Portland  side  of  the  river,  about  thirty  acres  of  land  have  been  pur- 
chased for  a  site  for  union  passenger  and  freight  buildings,  and  for  a  freight  yard. 
The  completion  of  the  bridge  over  the  Willamette,  which  the  Oregon  Railway  & 
Navigation  Company  has  constructed,  enables  the  improvements  contemplated  for 
the  Portland  yard  and  buildings  to  be  carried  out.  This  bridge  is  a  steel  structure, 
consisting  of  a  draw  span  of  three  hundred  and  forty  feet  and  a  fixed  span  of 
three  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  It  is  a  through  bridge,  with  carriage  way  and 
foot-walks  above  the  railroad  tracks,  and  connects  Third  Street,  Portland,  and 
Holladay  Avenue,  East  Portland. 

Modern  Improvements.  The  streets  of  Portland  are  lighted  by  in- 
candescent and  arc  electric  lights.  The  city  owns  its  water-works  system.  In 
order  to  purchase  the  water-works  plant  from  the  private  corporation  which  owned 
it,  the  city  issued  five  per  cent,  bonds  to  the  amount  of  $500,000,  which  were 
readily  sold  at  an  average  price  of  $1.08,  showing  the  confidence  in  the  city's 
financial  condition.  The  city  has  thirty-two  miles  of  water  mains,  and  the 
pumping  capacity  of  the  works  is  fifteen  million  gallons  per  day.  The  supply  is 
obtained  from  the  Willamette  River,  about  five  miles  up  the  stream.  The  average 
daily  consumption  is  five  million  gallons. 

The  Portland  Paid  Fire  Department  is  an  efficient  organization,  operating 
under  the  City  Board  of  Fire  Commissioners.  A  fireman's  mutual  relief  asso- 
ciation is  in  operation  in  connection  with  the  Fire  Department. 


254 


OVER    THE    RANGE 


Manufacturing'.  The  manufacturing  advantages  of  Portland  and  vicinity 
are  not  utilized  to  an  extent  at  all  commensurate  with  their  importance.  There  is 
abundant  raw  material  in  Oregon,  cheap  and  reliable  water  power,  and  generally 
favorable  conditions  for  the  growth  of  varied  manufacturing  enter- 
prises. The  comparatively  recent  discovery  of  the  resources  of  the 
region  must  account  for  the  small  amount  of  manufacturing  that  is 
done  where  circumstances  are  so  favorable.  People  from  the  East, 
accustomed  to  the  closer  and  fuller  development  of  their  resources, 
and  alive  to  the  advantages  of  manufacturing  as  near  the  source  of 
supply  as  possible,  are  surprised  at  the  neglected  opportunities 
which  they  observe  on  the  Pacific  Slope,  and  particularly  in  and 
I  about  the  commercial  centre  of  a  region  incalculably  rich  in  the 
elements  that  promote  manufacturing  prosperity. 
Still,  that  branch  of  industry  is  well  established,  and 
is  constantly  increasing  in  volume  and  importance. 
(Population,  82,ooo.  Distance  from  San  Francisco, 
72  miles.) 

Picturesque  Surroundings.    Aside 

from    the   advantages    of    its    relative    location, 
Portland  has  a  very  admirable  site  for  a  beauti- 
ful city.     From  the  docks  at  the  river's  side,  the 
land  gradually  ascends  to  the  west  and  south- 
west,   finally  breaking  in  elevated  and  pic- 
turesque   hills,    upon    which    the    residence 
portion    of  the  city    is  already  encroaching. 
These  hills  form  an  important  feature 
the  topography  of  the  city.     The 
lower  and  more  level  part  of  the 
town    is    occupied    by    business 
houses  and  manufactories.      The 
heights   are  visible   from   almost 
any  point.     They  are 
ascended     by     means 
gg  of   roadways    winding 

along  the  hillsides, 
affording  mag- 
nificent   views 


■ORESTS    ON    THE    COLUMBIA. 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


255 


as  the  prospect  unfolds.  From  the  summit  of  Robinson's  Hill,  on  a  cleai 
day,  the  sight  is  most  grand  and  inspiring.  Within  a  radius  of  hundred  a 
miles,  which  the  eye  sweeps  from  this  elevated  outlook,  north,  east  and  southeast, 
five  perpetually  snow-clad  mountain  peaks  are  visible.  The  most  prominent  of 
these  is  Mount  Hood,  which  rests  upon  the  long,  bluish  bank  of  the  Cascade 
Mountains,   and  rears  its  lofty  summit   to  the  sky.      Its  covering  of  snow  and 


ROOSTER    ROCK,    COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

glaciers  sparkles  in  the  sunlight,  and  when  suffused  with  the  soft  glow  of  the 
setting  sun,  reflects  the  most  delicate  tints  of  purple,  crimson  and  gold,  giving  it  a 
majestic  splendor  inspiring  to  the  beholder.  To  the  south  is  Mount  Jefferson,  and 
to  the  north  Mounts  Adams,  St.  Helens  and  Rainier,  the  latter  the  loftiest  peak  of 
the  Cascade  Mountain  Range,  all  of  them  capped  with  snow  and  ice,  and  relieving 
a  landscape  of  charming  beauty.  Breaking  through  the  ridge  of  the  Cascades,  the 
great  "  River  of  the  West,"  the  Columbia,  pours  its  mighty  tide  toward  the  sea. 
The  Willamette  threads  the  broad  valley  to  the  south  like  a  ribbon,  its  course  being 
visible  for  many  miles  and  finally  being  lost  among  the  farms  and  villages  that  dot  its 
banks. 

Tacoma's  commanding  position  among  the 
cities  of  Washington  Territory  has  been  earned 
step  by  step  by  a  struggle  in  which  the  odds  wee 
against  her.  The  general  apprehension,  justified 
probably  by  the  history  of  many  cities  and  towns, 
that  in  the  West  all  one  need  to  do  is  to  stake  off  a 
few  lots,  build  a  cabin  or  two,  select  a  name,  and  a 
city  will  grow  up  much  after  the  fashion  of  vege- 
tables in  a  garden,  is  in  nowise  true  01  Tacoma. 
When  Tacorna  was  established,  other  towns  on  Puget  Sound  had  existed  for  many 


TACOMA. 

A  City  whose 

Fame  has  become 

International. 

1 The  City  of  Destiny. 


Jp^~- 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  257 

years,  and  naturally  they  did  not  extend  any  encouragement  to  a  new  town.  Instead 
of  receiving  from  the  beginning,  as  in  the  case  of  many  cities  of  the  West,  the 
exclusive  support  and  encouragement  of  an  extensive  business  district,  Tacoma 
found  the  older  towns  already  in  possession,  and  ready  to  contest  every  step  tsken 
by  the  new  claimant  for  public  favor  and  support.  Figuratively  speaking,  Tacoiaa's 
first  breath  of  life  was  a  battle-cry,  and  although  the  cry  was  not  at  first  very  liAid, 
it  was  firm,  full  of  confidence  and  pluck.  The  town  did  not  remain  long  ii  its 
swaddling  clothes.  Its  voice  gained  in  strength.  At  first  Puget  Sound  only  hear  i  it. 
Then  it  reached  the  ears  of  everybody  in  Washington  Territory,  and  they  were 
pleased  with  it.  The  Pacific  Northwest  then  realized  that  there  was  a  new  voice  in 
the  business  world  and  stopped  to  listen,  and  soon  the  entire  Pacific  Coast  was 
talking  about  it.  Then  the  great  and  populous  East  heard  Tacoma's  voice,  and 
when  it  said  "Come,"  thousands  responded.  Then  England  came  thousands  of 
miles  by  sea,  in  great  ships,  to  learn  more  about  Tacoma,  a  city  whose  fame  had 
crossed  the  Atlantic.  China  and  Japan  sent  tea-ships  at  this  infant's  demand,  and 
even  far-off  Australia  heard  it,  and  was  so  pleased  that  the  ocean  pathway  between 
Tacoma  and  that  continent  is  marked  by  an  ever-increasing  fleet  of  ships  going  and 
coming.  Tacoma  helps  to  feed  the  world;  helps  to  build  the  world's  houses;  and 
yet  its  voice  is  stronger  than  ever  and  is  being  used  more  than  ever.  The 
thousands  of  people  who  listened  and  responded  to  Tacoma's  invitation  were  not 
disappointed.  And  Tacoma  grew  and  flourished  until  its  present  commanding 
position  was  reached. 

From  a  town  of  only  a  few  hundred  people,  Tacoma  now  has  a  population 
estimated  at  36  000.  Its  property  has  increased  to  twenty  times  its  value  twelve 
years  ago.  Its  business  relations  extend  to  all  parts  of  the  civilized  world,  a  fact 
which  is  true  of  no  other  city  in  Washington  Territory.  In  railroads,  shipping, 
manufactories,  and  business  generally,  Tacoma's  prosperity  has  been  very  great; 
so  great,  indeed,  that  whereas  it  a  few  years  ago  was  only  a  small  and  relatively 
unimportant  village,  it  is  now  a  city,  possessing  all  the  characteristics  and  con- 
veniences of  a  city. 

Tacoma  was  originally  planned  on  a  large  scale,  and  the  expectations  of  th« 
founders  of  the  city,  however  Sanguine  they  may  have  been,  have  doubtless  been 
more  than  realized  at  this  time.  Probably  no  one  expected  Tacoma  to  grow  so 
rapidly,  to  earn  so  speedily  such  extraordinary  trade  relations  with  the  markets  of 
the  world.  The  streets  are  wide  and  laid  off  with  special  relation  to  convenience 
and  beauty.  Pacific  and  Tacoma  Avenues  are  without  superiors  for  beauty  and 
length  in  the  Northwest.  These  and  other  public  highways  are  well  graded,  and 
sidewalks  are  constructed  of  a  substantial  character. 

The  location  of  the  Methodist  University  in  Tacoma  has  given  the  city  a 
notable  addition  to  its  already  large  number  of  educational  institutions.  The  Tacoma 
people  subscribed  a  bonus  of  $75,000  to  this  great  institution.  The  Annie  Wrighl 
Seminary,  the  Washington  College,  and  the  numerous  public  schools,  speak  more 
than  words  can  tell  of  the  public  spirit  manifested  by  Tacoma  people,  of  their  ability 
to  meet  every  demand  of  a  liberal  and  progressive  population  and  of  the  existence 
of  a  breadth  of  public  sentiment  which  proves  the  stable  character  of  the  city's  pro. 
gress.  Of  the  many  church  buildings,  some  possess  architectural  beauties  equal  to 
those  to  be  seen  anywhere.  Private  residences  of  handsome  architecture  may  be 
seen  in  all  parts  of  the  city.  The  hotels  number  twenty,  and  yet  they  are  not 
sufficient  to  accommodate  the  multitude  of  people  who  daily  arrive  in  this  flourish- 
ing city. 


PACIFIC    AVENUE,    TACOMA.      1877- 


PACIFIC    AVENUE,    TACOMA.      1£ 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  259 

The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company  has  erected  a  magnificent  brick 
building  for  the  offices  of  the  company. 

These  features  of  Tacoma  are  worthy  of  special  attention  as  evidencing  the 
solid  character  of  the  city's  progress.  They  rebut  every  idea  that  Tacoma's 
growth  and  the  expansion  of  her  industries  are  "  mushroomy  "  in  character.  The 
city  itself  is  the  best  commentary  on  the  character  of  its  resources.  (Population, 
36,000.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  917  miles.) 

The  Climate  of  Puget  Sound.  The  following  extract  from  a  recent 
compilation  so  accurately  sets  forth  the  characteristics  of  this  climate,  that  to 
employ  other  words  would  add  nothing  to  the  facts  contained  in  it: 

The  climate  of  the  Puget  Sound  country  is  wholly  unlike  anything  experienced 
on  the  Atlantic  Slope,  or  in  the  Mississippi  Valley;  or,  indeed,  anywhere  on  the 
American  continent  except  in  the  Pacific  Northwest.  The  summers  are  cool  and 
the  winters  singularly  mild.  A  temperature  of  80°  in  midsummer  is  very  rare,  and 
not  often  in  winter  does  the  mercury  go  much  below  the  freezing  point.  The 
following  is  the  meteorological  table  for  1885,  which  is  about  an  average  year, 
compiled  from  observations  taken  daily  at  7  a.  m.,  2  p.  m.  and  9  p.  m.  A  minute's 
study  of  it  will  show  how  remarkably  free  from  trying  extremes  the  climate  is. 

METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE   FOR    1885. 

Monthly 

Lowest.  Highest.  Mean.  Rainfall 

in  inches. 

January 30°  620  37-9°           4.20 

February 31  59  44.5             4.16 

March 32  68  48.0            1.01 

April 35  75  50.8             0.47 

May 43  80  60.5             2.89 

June 47  76  57.0             0.49 

July.-. 51  86  66.4            0.26 

August 52  84  64.5             

September 46  74  58.8             2.44 

October 39  64  514            2.47 

November 34  60  45.5             8.22 

December 28  60  41.4            6.14 

Total  rainfall  in  1885 32.74 

As  suggested,  if  the  above  extract  is  carefully  studied  it  will  tell  more  than 
many  words  of  explanation. 

Trade  with  South  America  and  Mexico.  The  condition  upon 
which  trade  relations  will  be  established  with  South  American  and  Mexican  Pacific 
Coast  points  are  of  such  a  promising  character  that  it  will  not  be  long  until  a  most 
valuable  commerce  will  be  carried  on.  The  peculiar  conditions  which  justify  the 
hope  of  establishing  very  extensive  relations  with  that  country  are  found  in  the 
products  of  the  countries.  The  purposes  of  this  article  will  not  admit  of  a  minute 
examination  of  these  conditions,  but  any  one  who  will  examine  the  subject  will 
find  that  the  products  of  Washington  Territory  supply  what  the  South  American 
countries  referred  to  do  not  have,  and  those  countries  produce  that  which  will  find 
a  ready  market  in  the  Northwest.  »  Hard  woods,  tropical  fruits,  valuable  ores  and 
minerals  on  the  one  hand,  with  soft  woods,  iron,  grain,  fish  and  many  other  of  the 
resources  of  the  Northwest — these,  any  one  can  easily  see,  furnish  all  the  con- 
ditions upon  which  most  extensive  commercial  relations  may  be  established.      The 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE.  261 

relations  will  be  those  of  exchange  of  products.  Such  conditions  are  especially 
promising,  as  they  will  afford  cargoes  both  going  and  coming. 

Tacoma's  commercial  relations  with  the  Pacific  Coast  are  now  so  well  known 
that  it  is  almost  unnecessary  to  make  reference  to  them  at  all,  except  to  make  this 
array  of  evidence  complete.  Reference  to  the  record  of  Tacoma's  shipping,  as  set 
forth  already  in  this  article,  will  show  how  extensive  are  Tacoma's  relations  with 
San  Francisco  and  other  coast  points. 

The  thoughtful  man  will  reason  that  if  Tacoma  enjoys  such  extraordinary 
advantages  now,  what  will  the  future  bring?  He  will  then  understand  the  peculiar 
significance  of  the  poetical  phrase,  "  The  City  of  Destiny." 

A  Magnificent  Harbor.  The  general  measure  of  Tacoma's  apprecia- 
tion of  this  most  remarkable  body  of  water  would  be  expressed  in  miles  rather  than 
particular  instances.  To  say  that  there  are  saw  mills  at  particular  points,  coal 
bunkers  at  others,  wheat  warehouses  near  by,  magnificent  docks  elsewhere,  various 
harbor  improvements  and  railroads,  would  certainly  be  very  suggestive  of  what 
Tacoma  has  accomplished  in  a  few  years.  But  to  say  that  these  improvements 
extend  along  the  water  front  for  a  distance  of  about  six  miles,  gives  a  larger  idea 
of  their  extent. 

These  features  of  Tacoma's  enterprise  and  prosperity  have  a  special  meaning. 
They  are  not  constructed  simply  as  a  matter  of  ornament.  Business  men  do  not  do 
things  that  way.  Business  methods  are  not  fancy  in  their  character.  These 
improvements  indicate  that  demands  exist  and  are  being  supplied.  And  Tacoma  is 
doing  the  supplying. 

Terminal  and  Shipping-  Facilities.  The  fact  that  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  has  made  Tacoma  its  terminal  point,  is  of  itself  enough  to  satisfy 
anyone,  without  further  explanation,  that  the  terminal  and  shipping  facilities  would 
be  commensurate  with  the  importance  of  a  great  trans-continental  railroad  com- 
pany's interests. 

The  immense  docks  at  which  railroad  and  ocean  traffic  unite,  are  so  large  and 
involve  so  many  distinct  features,  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  impart  to  anyone  not 
familiar  with  such  improvements  an  adequate  idea  of  their  extent  and  importance. 

It  is  not  an  uncommon  sight  to  see  lying  along  these  immense  docks,  only 
a  few  feet  away  from  the  railroad  tracks,  an  ocean  sailing-vessel,  several  ocean 
steamships,  Alaska  steamers,  besides  a  host  of  smaller  craft.  This  will  suggest  the 
character  and  extent  of  these  docks.  The  Northern  Pacific  Company  has  immense 
warehouses  erected  on  these  docks,  and  all  the  conveniences  incident  to  the  prompt, 
careful  and  expeditious  handling  of  freights.  It  is  often  a  difficult  matter  for  local 
craft  to  secure  dock  accommodations,  so  crowded  with  steamers  and  sailing-vessels 
do  the  docks  become. 

The  conveniences  are  such  that  the  handling  of  immense  cargoes  is  accom- 
plished with  an  ease  and  dispatch  scarcely  conceivable.  The  ships  laden  with  tea 
are  drawn  up  within  a  few  feet  of  the  great  warehouses,  alongside  of  which  are  the 
railroad  switches.  The  San  Francisco  steamers  also  discharge  their  freight  into 
these  warehouses.  Extensive  additions  have  been  made  to  these  docks  to  accom- 
modate the  ever-increasing  demand  for  room,  and  more  extensions  are  in 
contemplation. 

Trade  with  the  Middle  West.  The  trade  with  the  Middle  West  and 
in  the  Far  East  is  made  up  of  tea  and  lumber  and  shingles.  In  lumber  and  shingles 
most  promising  trade  relations  have  been  established  with  the  sections  referred 
to,  and  the  trade  in  these  products  is  constantly  increasing  in  volume.  The 
excellence  and  durability  of    the  cedar  shingles  manufactured  in  Tacoma  and 


IffiKHi 

III   t 1 

i 

1 

?.  J 

ft 

■0 

V  '■ 

n 

■  |v; 

Shi 


TO    THE   GOLDEN  GATE.  263 

vicinity  make  them  superior  to  any  manufactured  elsewhere,  and  large  quantities 
are  now  being  shipped  East.  The  qualities  of  Puget  Sound  lumber  has  made 
it  famous  all  over  the  world.  Tacoma  being  the  terminal  point  of  that  great  trans- 
continental artery  of  commerce  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  naturally  enjoys  the 
results  of  such  special  advantages.  It  does  not  require  elaborate  reasoning  to 
convince  any  man  that  the  same  conditions  which  gave  rise  to  such  trade  will 
increase  its  volume  rapidly  the  longer  the  relations  exist. 

Tea  Trade  with  the  Orient.  It  was  only  a  few  months  after  the 
completion  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company's  Cascade  branch  that  the 
first  tea  ship  arrived  in  Tacoma  from  Yokahama.  This  shows  how  quickly  Oriental 
and  American  merchants  realized  the  advantages  attending  the  shipping  of  tea  to 
Tacoma.  The  great  gain  in  time  and  reduction  in  expense  were  the  considerations 
which  have  brought  to  Tacoma  such  an  important  branch  of  San  Francisco  trade. 
Is  there  need  to  expand  on  the  significance  of  these  relations?  Is  there  need  to 
repeat  the  fact  that  trade  brings  trade  ?  Tea  and  lumber  will  not  always  be  the 
only  articles  of  commerce  between  the  Orient  and  Tacoma.  This  is  only  the 
beginning,  and  it  does  not  require  much  imagination  to  picture  in  the  near  future 
a  constant  stream  of  vessels,  both  steam  and  sail,  between  Tacoma  and  the  vari- 
ous commercial  cities  along  the  western  Pacific  Coast.  Tacoma  has  first  secured 
these  trade  relations.     Such  relations  are  very  tenacious. 

Seattle  is  the  county-seat  of  King  County,  and 
is  known  far  and  near  as  the  "  Queen  City  of  Puget 
Sound." 

It  has  a  present  population  of  40,000  against 
3,500  in  1880.  The  city  contains  national  and  pri- 
vate banks  ;  daily  and  weekly  journals  ;  mortgage, 
loan  and  trust  companies  ;  twenty  churches  ;  public 
school  buildings,  two  of  which  cost  $30,000  and 
$42,000  each  ;  a  territorial  university  ;  two  private 
colleges  and  a  girl's  academy  ;  besides  numerous 
private  schools,  three  hospitals  and  an  orphan's 
home.  The  wholesale  and  retail  stores  are  too  many  to  enumerate,  some  of  the 
former  doing  a  business  annually  of  $500,000  to  $1,000,000  each.  The  city  is 
admirably  supplied  with  pure  water,  both  by  numerous  private  companies  on  a 
small  scale  and  by  the  mammoth  works  of  the  Spring  Hill  Water  Company, 
located  at  Lake  Washington.  This  company  has  completed  a  great  reservoir  on 
Central  Hill.  315  feet  above  tide  level.  Connected  with  it  in  the  city  are  hydrants, 
from  which  five  extinguishing  streams  are  thrown  far  above  the  highest  buildings 
in  the  business  part  of  the  city.  This  city  has  a  splendid  system  of  gas-works, 
also  two  electric  light  companies.  Both  arc  and  incandescent  lights  illuminate 
the  streets.  Two  lines  of  street  railway  are  in  operation  and  steadily  extending 
outward,  and  several  other  lines  are  projected.  It  contains  more  than  forty 
benevolent  societies  and  fraternal  lodges;  also  four  well- drilled  and  equipped 
militia  companies.  During  the  past  few  years  there  have  been  added  to  its 
municipal  improvements  twenty- five  miles  of  graded  streets  and  sixty  miles  of 
sidewalk.  Some  of  the  recent  steps  in  the  progress  of  Seattle  as  a  metropolis  are 
here  given  :  On  October  1,  1887,  the  free  postal  delivery  system  went  into  effect  in 
the  city.  A  few  weeks  later  Seattle  was  made  the  terminus  and  centre  of  distribu- 
tion for  all  the  mails  for  the  entire  Puget  Sound  country  ;  in  consequence  it  har 


SEATTLE. 

A  Town    of   Marvelous 
Growth. 

"The  Queen  City 

of 

Puget    Sound." 


264  OVER    THE    RANGE 

become  the  central  headquarters  and  home  port  for  destination  and  departure  of 
the  steamboat  system  of  the  Sound.  Within  its  maritime  jurisdiction  are  now 
plying  more  than  eighty  steamers.  On  December  I,  1887,  the  United  States 
District  Land  Office  was  removed  to  Seattle,  making  this  city  the  principal  seat  of 
the  public  land  business  in  Western  Washington. 

The  city  of  Seattle  contains  ten  saw  mills,  whose  plants  cost  $4,000,000,  which 
employ  over  seven  hundred  men;  and  also  has  tributary  to  it,  within  a  radius  of 
thirty  five  miles,  the  mammoth  lumbering  establishments  of  Port  Blakely,  Port 
Madison,  Port  Discovery,  Port  Gamble,  Port  Ludlow,  Utsalady  and  Seabeck,  said 
to  be  the  largest  saw  mills  in  the  world,  some  of  them  having  a  capacity  of  350,000 
feet  per  diem,  and  employing  scores  of  seagoing  ships.  There  are  three  or  four 
brick  yards  and  tile  factories,  four  breweries,  numerous  bakeries,  candy  factories,  a 
cracker  factory,  several  sash,  door  and  blind  factories,  shingle  factory,  soap  works, 
furniture  factory,  soda  works,  bottling  establishments,  carpet  weavers,  match 
factory,  harness  and  saddlery,  blank  books  and  bindery,  book  printing,  several 
boiler  works,  foundries,  iron  and  brass  works,  etc. ;  numerous  boot  and  shoe  shops 
and  tailoring  establishments,  factories  of  shirts  and  underwear,  cigars,  millinery 
goods,  chair  stock,  barrels,  plaster  decorations,  etc.;  four  marble  and  stone  cutting 
works,  patent  medicines,  dressmakers,  hair  work,  cairiage  makers,  wagon  shops, 
fish  packers,  coffee  and  spice  mill,  cabinetmakers,  boat  builders;  and  numerous 
dentists,  jewelers,  watchmakers,  florists,  nurserymen,  fancy  poultry  breeders  and 
stockmen,  furriers,  gun  and  locksmiths,  hatters,  meat  packers,  photographers, 
picture  framers  and  painters,  metallic  roof  works,  scroll  saw  works,  shipyards,  tin 
shops,  taxidermists,  chemists,  undertakers,  etc. 

The  export  trade  of  Seattle  and  Puget  Sound  is  very  large  and  is  rapidly 
increasing.  An  idea  of  it  can  be  formed  from  a  single  fact.  During  the  fiscal  year 
ending  June  30,  1887,  the  United  States  Custom  House  at  Port  Townsend  noted 
the  departure  from  the  Sound  of  641  cargoes  of  coal  and  lumber,  besides  several  of 
wheat,  which,  at  $10,000  each  (a  low  estimate),  would  be  worth  $6,500,000.  A 
large  bulk  of  this  export  wealth  went  to  foreign  ports  all  over  the  world,  to  be  paid 
for  in  coin.  As  Seattle  is  the  chief  metropolis  of  the  entire  Puget  Sound  region, 
it  is  not  far  out  of  the  way  to  credit  the  most  of  this  business  as  her  commerce 
since  it  is  largely  contributory  to  her  growth.  During  the  fiscal  year  ending  June 
30,  1885,  the  number  of  vessels  entered  in  the  Puget  Sound  district  was  1,065, 
with  a  tonnage  of  478,000,  and  the  clearances  were  1,065,  with  a  tonnage  of 
452,234.  Of  the  entrances,  271  cargoes,  151,301  tons  were  in  cargo,  and  794 
cargoes,  326,839  tons  were  in  ballast.  Of  the  departures,  those  proportions 
were  just  reversed,  showing  the  balance  of  trade.  The  total  value  of  her  foreign 
and  coastwise  exports  for  18S5  was  $7,000,000.  Besides  the  ordinary  shipments 
of  coal,  lumber,  hops,  oats,  wheat,  potatoes,  furs,  lime,  canned  and  barreled 
salmon,  the  daily  routine  export  trade  to  the  neighboring  British  ports  of  Victoria 
and  British  Columbia  forms  an  enormous  item. 

Advantages  Of  Seattle.  The  special  advantages  of  Seattle  are  too 
numerous  to  mention  in  full.  A  few  may  be  specified,  as:  First — A  splendid 
harbor,  scarcely  equaled  in  the  world  for  the  varied  purposes  and  convenience  of 
commerce.  Second— Its  central  position  relative  to  the  commerce  of  the  world,  as 
the  great  seaport  on  the   Pacific  Ocean  of  North    America,   and  directly  facing 


TO    THE    GOLDEN   GATE. 


265 


the  teeming  population  of  Asia  and  the  great  and  rich  island?  of  the  South 
Seas.  It  is  already  the  chief  port  of  supply  for  the  growing  trade  of  Alaska— 
a  great  region,  more  extensive  than  the  thirteen  original  States  of  the  Union, 
with  an  ocean  coast  line  of  thousands  of  miles,  that  is  beginning  now  to  loom 
up  as  a  great  coming  source  of  supply  of  the  precious  metals,  as  well  as  of 
furs,  fish,  whale  oil,  yellow  cedar  and  ice.     Third— It  has  an  excellent  and  most 


productive  soil  for  fruits,  flowers,  and  garden  produce,  of  such  a  nature  as  not  to 
be  very  dusty  in  summer  nor  muddy  in  winter.  Fourth— Its  exceptional  health- 
fulness.  The  death  rate  in  Seattle  is  only  7  in  1000,  per  annum,  which  is  less  than 
one-third  that  of  the  northern  cities  of  the  Union.  Fifth— Its  mild,  even  and  delicious 
climate,  free  from  all  dangers  from  the  clouds  above,  from  vapors  or  miasma 
around,  or  the  fires  beneath.  Sixth— Its  surroundings  on  all  sides,  except  the 
magnificent  harbor  front,  by  grand  lakes  and  deep,  navigable  rivers,  which  have 
caused  it  to  be  officially  designated  as  the  location  of  a  great  naval  station  and 
construction  yard.     Seventh— The  one-third  mile  canal   now  completed  between 


266  OVER    THE    RANGE 

Lakes  Union  and  Washington,  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  furnishes  a  great  water- 
power  of  incalculable  value  for  manufacturing  and  motive  power. 

Seattle  has  two  lines  of  local  railroad  completed  and  in  operation,  the  Colum- 
bia &  Puget  Sound,  with  two  branches,  one  twenty  miles  long,  running  to  New- 
castle, the  other  forty  miles  long,  running  to  the  Black  Diamond  and  Franklin 
collieries;  and  the  Puget  Sound  Shore  Line,  extending  through  a  link  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  and  placing  the  city  in  connection  with  the  Northern 
Pacific,  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation  Company,  the  Union  Pacific,  the 
Oregon  &  California,  the  Southern  Pacific,  and  the  general  railroad  system  of  the 
United  States. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  has  been  pushed  through  the  Canadian  Dominion  by 
British  capital,  to  a  Pacific  terminus,  something  over  a  hundred  miles  north  of 
Seattle,  and  the  Seattle  &  West  Coast  Railroad,  which  furnishes  the  connecting 
link,  and  makes  Seattle  the  American  terminus  of  this  great  system,  is  now  under 
contract  for  the  entire  distance,  and  is  being  rapidly  pushed  to  completion  this 
year.  This  line,  as  regards  the  carrying  trade,  is  as  much  an  element  in  the  trans- 
portation problem  of  the  Northwest  as  any  of  the  American  roads.  The  Seattle, 
Bellingham  Bay  &  British  Columbia  Railroad  Company,  a  local  company  of  Seattle 
capitalists,  has  obtained  from  Congress  a  charter  for  a  through  line,  and  are 
actively  pushing  the  preliminary  work  for  a  second  line  to  connect  Seattle  by  rail, 
direct  with  the  Canadian  system,  at  the  international  boundary  line  on  the  49th 
parallel. 

Beauty  of  the  City.  The  city  presents  a  beautiful  and  striking 
appearance  from  whatever  side  it  is  approached.  It  rises  from  the  water  front 
to  the  crest  of  a  hill  in  a  gradual  slope.  The  site  is  most  beautiful.  The 
city  extends  about  four  miles  along  the  water  front.  The  whole  water  front  is 
lined  with  mills,  manufacturing  establishments  of  various  kinds,  commission  and 
storage,  and  warehouses. 

Steamers  are  constantly  arriving  and  departing;  regular  lines  run  to  Tacom? 
and  Olympia,  to  Port  Townsend  and  Victoria,  to  Whatcom  and  other  points  on 
Bellingham  Bay,  and  to  the  Skagit  River;  there  are  regular  steamers  to  Alaska, 
San  Francisco,  San  Diego,  and  other  points  in  California.  Ships  from  China, 
Japan,  Australia,  crowd  its  docks.  In  addition  to  the  great  and  varied  industries 
on  the  water  front,  there  are  business  blocks,  higher  up,  that  would  do  credit  to  any 
Eastern  city.  The  residence  portion  of  Seattle  is  unsurpassed  for  beauty.  There 
are  hundreds  of  homes  costing  from  $3,000  to  $50,000,  surrounded  by  charming 
grounds,  and  so  located  and  constructed  as  to  command  magnificent  views  of  the 
Sound,  the  Olympic  and  Cascade  Ranges  of  mountains,  always  covered  with  snow, 
and  the  mighty  peaks  of  Mounts  Rainier  and  Baker.  To  the  north  of  the  city  and 
close  up  to  it  lies  the  beautiful  Lake  Union,  a  body  of  fresh  water  covering  a 
section  or  two  of  land,  and  of  immense  depth.  The  heights  about  this  lake  are 
being  covered  with  pleasant  homes,  and  in  the  near  future  it  will  be  a  most  delight- 
ful resort.  To  the  east  of  the  city,  four  miles  from  the  bay,  but  now  hardly  a  mile 
from  the  city  limits,  lies  Lake  Washington,  twenty-five  miles  in  length  by  from 
two  to  four  in  width.  It  is  clear,  fresh,  sparkling  water,  so  deep  that  it  can  not  or 
has  not  yet  been  sounded.  The  lake  is  hemmed  in  by  hills  covered  with  giant 
forest  trees.  The  water  supply  of  Seattle  is  drawn  from  this  lake.  It  is  connected 
with  Lake  Union  by  a  small  stream,  which  is  being  enlarged  into  a  ship  canal,  so 
that  within  a  year  or  two  the  largest  steamers  and  ships  will  go  directly  from  the 
salt  water  of  the  Sound  into  the  clear,  fresh  water  of  Lake  Washington.  It  will 
make  one  of  the  finest  ship-building  points  and  dry-dock  stations  in  the  world,  and 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


267 


will  certainly  be  utilized  for  such  purposes,  either  by  the  National  Government  or 
private  enterprise.  There  is  certainly  not  within  the  National  domain  such  an 
eligible  location  for  a  great  navy  yard.  Special  attention  is  being  paid  to  the 
establishment  of  manufacturing  industries  in  Seattle,  and  almost  every  week 
some  new  enterprise  is  materialized.  Henry  Villard,  in  his  visit  to  the  city  in 
1878,  designated  it  "  The  Queen  City."  Situated  as  it  is,  in  the  heart  of  Western 
Washington,  with  railways  running  out  in  many  directions,  with  a  harbor  equal 
to  any  in  the  world,  the  city  well  deserves  the  title.     The  city  is  the  nucleus  of 


MT.     RAINIER,     W.    T. 


territorial  commerce;  all  the  prosperity  of  the  country  is  reflected  in  the  genera) 
progress  of  the  city.  The  history  of  the  city  is  the  history  of  the  whole  Northwest. 
It  is  the  supply  depot  and  shipping  port  for  a  quarter  of  a  million  people;  it  is  the 
wholesale  and  retail  market  for  a  vast  territory.  Its  commerce  within  the  last  two 
years  has  assumed  enormous  proportions.  It  is  the  coal  and  lumber  shipping 
depot  for  the  whole  Pacific  Coast.  It  is  the  heart  of  navigation  of  Puget  Sound. 
Nearly  two  hundred  steamers  radiate  from  the  wharves  to  different  local  points. 
(Population,  40,000.     Distance  from  San  Francisco,  940  miles.) 


268 


OVER  THE  RANGE 


COMPLETE  INDEX  TO  STATIONS  ON  THE  DENVER  &  RIO 
GRANDE  RAILROAD,  RIO  GRANDE  WESTERN  RAILWAY, 
RIO  GRANDE  SOUTHERN  RAILROAD,  AND  FLORENCE 
&  CRIPPLE  CREEK  RAILROAD. 


STATIONS 


Acheron 

Acequia 

Adelaide  

Adobe  

Alabaster 

Alamosa 

Alcalde 

Alleutown 

Alinont 

Alta 

Alta  Vista 

Amargo 

Americus 

American  Fork 

Arequa  

Aulmas  City... 
Anth.  Coal  Mine 

Antonito 

Apache 

Apishapa 

Arboles 

Anaconda 

Aspen  

Azotea 

Baldy 

Barnes 

Barranca '.... 

Battle  Creek 

Bear  Creek 

Beaver 

Belleview 

Bessemer 

Big  Horn 

Bingham  June. 

Bingham 

Bird's  Eye  .. 
Blackbuin  .., 

Blanca 

Boaz , 

Bocea 

Bonita , 

Borst 

Brayton 

Bridge  3 

Bridgeport  . 

Brown's 

Brown's  Canon. 
Buena  Vista .. 

Burnhani 

Buxton 

Buttes 

Caliente 

Calumet 

Carbon 

Caroondale . .. 

Carlile 

Canon  City 

Carracas 

Cascade 

Castle  Gate  . . . 
Castle  Kock . . . 
Castle  Creek. . 

Cebolla 

Cedar  Creek  . . 
Cerro  Summit 

Cbama 

Cbamita 

Cherrydale  ... 

Chester 

Chicosa  June. 

Chipeta 

Cisco 

Cimarron 

Clear  Creek 

Cleora 


Slate 

or 

Territory 

a 
o 

"3 

e. 
o 

c 
0 

03 
> 

s 

2  ¥ 

1  a 

is  a- 
30 

Q 

463 
17 
169 
148 
160 
250 
359 
320 
300 
742 
183 
365 
240 
702 
189 

322 
279 
164 
189 
402 
190 
408 
353 
238 
195 
344 
698 
458 
143 
220 
121 
298 
723 
740 
282 
173 
2ii7 
186 
444 
272 

58 
507 
146 
399 
402 
224 
242 
2 
254 

94 
335 
233 
448 
379 
1  10 
161 
394 
477 
622 

33 
374 
309 
343 
336 
643 
365 
:» 1  s 
250 
199 
269 
490 
331 
670 
214 

Ctali 
Colo 

493) 
5530 
7012 

Colo 

Colo,  . , . 

N.  M  ,.. 
Colo. 

Utah 

1200 ' 

5778 
7546 
5709 
7144 
8042 

Colo.... 

9710 
7009 
8183 
4567 
9595 
6554 
8947 
7888 
5946 
6158 
6013 
9462 
7874 
7723 
7619 
6232 
6949 
4497 

N.  M  .... 
Colo 

150 

Utah  ... 

1800 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

400 

N.  M 

11000 

Colo 

Colo 

N.  M 
Utah 

25 

Colo.  . . 

4999 

Colo.   . 

Colo 

4803 
9022 
4366 
4375 
10187 
7379 
9(163 
6282 
6709 

N.  M 
Utah  .... 
Utah  .... 
Colo 

500 
900 

Colo 

6811 

Colo.  ... 

5048 
4755 

Colo.  .  .. 

Colo.  ... 

7322 
7967 
5241 
8794 
5368 
7324 
8871 
6424 
6181 
4950 
5343 
6173 
7785 
6257 
6219 
6037 
7354 
6755 
7968 
7863 
5641 

ItiOO 

Colo, 

N.  M 

25 

200 

Colo 

5000 

Utah 

Colo 

Colo 

300 

Colo 

Colo 

\.  M  .... 
N.  M 
Colo.  .. 

300 

Colo 

Colo 
Colo 

"  "25" 

9412 

6616 

4417 
6906 
6228 
7014 

Utah 

Utah  .... 

200 

50 

STATIONS 


Coal  .Mine 

Coal  Creek 

Coke  Ovens 

Colorado  City  . 
Colorado  Sp'gs 

Colorow 

Colona 

Conchlta  June. 

Corkscrew  

Coxo 

Cotopaxi 

Cottonwood  . . . 

Crane  Park 

Creede 

Crescent 

Cresco 

Crested  Butte 

( Irevasse 

Cripple  Creek  . 

Croo  ton 

Crystal  Creek  . 
Crystal  Lake  . . 
Cuchara .)  unc . 

Cumbres 

Currecanti 

Dallas 

Dallas  Divide  . 
Davenport 

Deep  Creek 

Deer  Run 

Delta 

Del  Norte 

Denver 

Derby 

Desert 

Dillon  

Dolores 

Dotsero  

Doyle 

Douglas 

Domiuguez    . 

Draper 

Dulce 

Duncan 

Dundee 

Duraugo 

EaglejPark 

Eagle 

Echo 

Eden 

Edgerton 

Eiler 

Eidredge 

Elko 

El  M010 

Embudo 

Emma 

Engleville 

Escalante 

Espanola 

Excelsior 

Fairy  Glen 

Falrview 

Fall  Creek 

Farnham 

Farmington  ... 

Florence 

Fort  Lewis 

Fort  Logan 

Fort  Crawford 

Florida 

Fountain 

Frank  lyn 

Fremont  Pass. 
Frisco  


State 

or 

Territory 


Utah.... 

Colo 

Colo  .... 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Utah.... 

Colo 

Colo 

Utah.... 
N.  M.... 
Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo.  ... 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Utah.... 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Utah.... 
N.  M.... 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

N.  M.... 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

N.  M... 
Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Utah.... 
Utah.... 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Ctali.... 

Colo 

Colo 


300(1 
15000 


SI  I 


3000 


1200 
'5060 


400 
900 

151)000 


300 
500 


8000 
'  '35b' 


250 
25 
100 


35 


1200 
'  800 


150 


653 
1 55 
208 
78 
75 
364 
365 
181 
464 
331 
193 
479 
281 
321 
52  1 
334 
318 
446 
192 
267 
329 

268 
169 
329 
322 
376 
391 
241 
llll 
404 
374 
281 

437 
544 
8859  I  313 
6957  310 


5360 
5953 
6110 
5992 
5352 
6109 
6391 

'  9753 
6385 
4602 

10112 

9016 
4896 
9193 
SS7S 
4526 
9396 
8168 
6831 
9329 
5942 
100(5 
7075 
6926 


8179 


4980 
788(1 
5198 


6154 
8(1(12 
6323 
4801 
43Q4 
6779 
4880 
4712 
6520 
9227 
65«8 
6085 
4880 
6417 
9858 
6541 

5879 
5821 
6610 
6493 
4  8  15 
5590 
4928 


5534 
4236 
5199 


5438 
6182 
6717 
5568 
4291 
11328 
9086 


319 
271 

35 
392 
776 
372 
382 
117 
150 
294 
335 
181 
112 

66 
275 
36S 
264 
206 
351 
3SS 
213 
386 
370 
457 
179 
348 
407 
599 
750 
1 52 
528 

10 
361 
4*6 

88 
728 
290 
310 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 


269 


INDEX  TO   STATIONS— Continued. 


STATIONS 

State 

or 

Territory 

a 

0 

03 

0 

a 
0 

3 

&  > 
.  a 

5*" 

STATIONS 

State 

or 

Territory 

a 
_o 

si 

"3 

a 
0 

a 
0 
*2 

c3 

HI 

3 

^  u 

Fruila 

Glenwood  Spgs. 
Germania 

Colo  .... 

100 

200 

100 

3000 

4523 
7936 
9510 
5758 
429b 
6518 

436 
226 
235 
367 
728 

38 
489 
124 
188 
435 
146  ; 
259 
581 
236 

47 
544 
119 
290 
342 
383 
646 
232 
247 
265 
400 
226 
428 
461 
523 
245 
386 
388 
296 
456 
764 
365 
255 
205 
157 

62 
424 
416 
306 
724 
385 
409 
754 
279 
233 

80 
420 
302 
296 
632 

Marsh  

Maysviile 

Meadows 

Mear's  June  ... 

Menefee 

Colo.... 

6347 

8320 
4812 
8431 

171 

Colo.... 

100 

228 
130 

Colo.  . 

25 

227 
359 

503 

124 

Goodnight 

4728 
7639 
4594 
5804 
8945 
4874 
9673 
6920 
4069 
4581 
7680 
6325 

Minturn 

Midway 

Military  June  . 
Military  Park  . 

Mill  Fork 

Milwood 

Mitchell 

Montolores 

Moffat 

Colo 

300 

7823 
7852 
5329 
5310 
5808 

308 

Colo 

Colo 

4000 ' 

239 

Grand  Junction 

8 

9 

150 

Utah 

658 

493 

9922 

287 

Colo 

Utah  ... 
Colo 

25 
150 

448 

Colo 

Colo 

N.  M. ... 
Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

30 

300 
135 
3000 
1200 
350 
300 

5500 
10028 

264 

Monarch 

Monero 

Monte  Vista.. 
Monument 

237 

Colo  , 

1500 

7262     362 
5811     357 

7665 
6974 

8754 
7695 
6588 
8141 
5560 
8205 
5353 
4286 
8189 

"8212 
9637 
7721 
5830 
5276 
7238 
S258 
9227 

253 

Hale 

56 

Halfway 

Hayes 

;>KS 

Mounds 

Mule  Shoe 

Nathrop 

284 

9158 

202 

Haskell's  Spur . 

Colo 

50 

234 

7271 

376 

Heibler's  Spur.. 

Needleton 

New  Castle 

No  Agua 

Oak  Creek 

481 

Colo 

N.  M 

1000 

379 

Hesperus 

Colo 

6645 

306 

156 

High  Bridge 

Hillside  Spur... 

Colo  ... 

10277 

Utah   ... 

32000 

771 

Ojo 

Ophir 

199 

Colo 

300 

423 

6559 
4391 
6409 
9024 
6714 
5677 
6596 
6437 

"8309 

'  6341 
4686 
4263 
9970 
9401 
5849 

7434 

10614 

7052 

Otto   

226 

Colo 

Colo  , , , 
Colo 

'  2500' " 

317 

389 

Hot  Springs 

Howard 

Ouray  Junction 
Overland  Park. 
Palmer  Lake  . . 
Palmilla 

354 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

200 

"  30" 

20 

Colo 

Colo 

N.  M.... 

Colo 

"  150" 

6 
52 

290 

293 

Parkdale 

Parlin 

4->5 

Colo 

50 

5400 

410 

Utah  ..  . 
Colo 

519 

Colo 
Colo 

35 
100 

5737 
7952 
7616 

5322 
6248 
7108 
6188 

171 

Colo 

278 

Utah  .... 

50 

^61 

Petersburg 

Colo 
Colo 

100 

8 

180 

Piedmont  .  , , . 
Pike  View  , ,     . 
Pine  Creek .... 
Pine  Ridge 

382 

Keystone  Spur  . 

Colo 

71 

<>54 

Colo 
Utah 

800 

532 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Utah.... 

20 
75 

25 

'20b' ' 

5038 
8410 

"7177 

10316 

4890 

7480 

106 

6177    418 

Placer  

Placerville . 

Plateau 

Pleasant  Val  J  <• 

212 

Lake  City 

Lake  Hughes  ... 

Colo  . 

1500 

8686 
7470 
7609 

352 
385 
265 
748 
160 
43 
757 
289 
191 
277 

404 
29 

Colo  , 

300 

636 

•>39 

Pole  Canon 

Poncha  Juno  . . 

Utah 
Colo 

Colo 

120 

674 

Larkspur 

N.  M 
Colo  . 

25 

600 

15 

6669 

8468 
7084 

10200 

221 

535 

Poncha  Pass. . . 

Colo 

Utah.... 
Utah.... 

Colo 
Colo 

'  200 ' 

5000 

:;.->ooo 

9059 
5547 
4517 
4669 
6228 
8615 

231 

611 

689 

9762    280 
4544     68b 
5691      21 

120 

Utah  .... 
Colo 

3000 

Quarry   

Red  Cliff 

Red  Narrows. . 

79 

Lehigh  June 

Colo 

Dtah 

Colo 

300 

299 

(Jtab 

286 
394 
412 
527 
10 
130 
339 
321 

5543    663 

Leopard  Creek  . 
Lime  Kiln  Spur. 
Little  Grand.... 

Littleton 

Lizard  Head 

Lobato 

5236     157 

Colo 
Colo 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo.    ... 

Colo 

Colo..     . 

200 

1  111 

3000 

500 

'  '600 ' 

5500    393 

Utah  .... 
Colo 
Colo  .  .. 

V  M  .... 
Colo  . 

' 1200 ' 

1604 

5372 

10250 

8303 

9637 

Riverside 

Rico 

Ridgway 

Roan 

Rockdale 

Ruck  wood 

Roswell  

Roubideau  

Round  Hill  .... 

8372 

s;.;; 

Tni  12 

4512 

10861 

249 
444 

378 
433 
294 

Lost  Canon  ...   . 
Lower  Crossing. 
Malta 

Utah  .... 

Coin 

Colo  .     ... 

Colo 

25 
50 

1800 
31  I'll 

181 

4630     570 
9580     272 
6318  '     80 
7(108  1  500  1 

10856  1  242  1 

140 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo.     .. 
Colo 

Colo 

' 1660 ' 

7367 
6095 

"  81187 
HISS 

168 
73 

379 

Mancos 

Marshall  "ass. . 

235 
183 

270 


OVER   THE  RANGE 


INDEX   TO   STATIONS.— Continued. 


STATIONS 


House  Junction 

Kc»-k  Creek 

Sagers 

Salida    

Salt  1 'reck  

Salt  Lake  City.. 

Sam's  Spur 

San  Carlos 

Sandy  

San  Barnardo. . . 
Sa  Clara  Mine  . . 

San  Miguel 

Sapinero 

Sargent 

Schofield 

Sedalia 

Serviletta 

Shale 

Snerwood 

Shawano 

Shirley 

Shoshone  

Silver  Lake 

Silverton 

Soda  Springs  ... 
Soldier  Summit. 

Solitude 

South  Fork 

So.  Fork  RGS.. 
Spanish  Fork.. 

Sphinx 

Spikebuck 

Spring  Creek  .. 

Springville 

Stewart  June. 

Sublette 

Sunnyside 

Swallows 

Swissvale 

Tennessee  Pass 
Texas  Creek  . . . 

Telluride 

Thistle 

The  Hook  

Thompson 


State 

or 

Territory 

a 

0 

OS 

0 

d 
0 

el 

W 

2* 

*".  3 

«Q 

O 

178 
303 
302 
217 
140 
735 
395 
128 
725 
425 
187 
422 
316 
259 
625 
25 
323 
452 
328 
246 
230 
357 
181 
495 
176 
642 
507 
297 
414 
679 
551 
176 
616 
683 
317 
305 
591 
135 
209 
2  S3 

isi; 
123 
679 
:,11 
515 

Colo 

6149 
S304 

Colo  ... 

Utah  .... 

Colo 

3000 

7050 
5469 
4228 

'  4900 

Utah  .... 

Colo 

Colo  . . . 

50000 

Utah  .... 

Colo  .... 

500 

6473 

Colo 

Colo 
Utah  .... 

Colo 

N.  M 

ioo 

50 

1500 

200 

7255 
8477 

5835 
7727 
4608 
6901 

Colo  .... 

8669 
6119 
6395 

9224 
6850 
7465 
4383 
8188 

Colo 

Colo 

Colo 
Colo 

2500 

Utah 
Utah 
Colo  .... 

Utah  .... 
Utah  . . . 

2500 

4721 

Colo  .... 

Utah 

Utah  .... 

Colo 

2500 

4565 

8006 
9276 
5270 
4868 

N.  M 
Utah 
Colo 

50 

Colo 

Colo 

Utah  .... 
Colo 

25 

50 

1800 

100 

10433 
6217 
8756 
5043 

Utah  .... 

5145 

Tioga 

Tollgate 

Toltec 

Toltec  Gorge . 

Toluca 

Tres  Piedras.. 
Trimble  Spr'gs 

Trinchera 

Trinidad 

Trout  Lakes... 

Tuna 

Twin  Lakes 

Unaweep 

Utah  Line 

Vallejo 

Vallie 

VanceJunction 

Vegas 

Verde 

Veta  Pass 

Victor 

Villa  Grove.... 

Volcano 

Wagon  W  Gap. 

Wahatoya 

Walsenburg. . . 

Wasatch 

Wason 

Wellsville 

West  Cliff 

West  Denver  .. 
Westwater  . 

Wheeler 

Whitehouse  ... 
Whitewater.  . . 
Winkfleld'sS.. 
Widen  eld....  . 

Wigwam 

Wilbur 

Willow  Creek.. 

AVolhurst 

Wolcott 

Wood's  Cross'g 
Woody  Creek. . 


State 

or 

Territory 


Colo... 
Colo... 
N.  M.. 
Colo... 
Colo... 
N.  M.. 
Colo... 
Colo.. . 
Colo... 
Colo . . . 
Col,,... 
Colo... 
Colo... 


Colo... 
Colo.., 
Colo... 
Colo... 
Colo... 
Colo... 
Colo... 
Colo... 
M.  M. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Utah'. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Utah . 
Colo.. 
Utah. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Colo.. 
Colo . . 
N.  M. 
Colo.. 

Colo.  . 

Utah. 
Colo.. 


75 
8000 


2(1110 
425 


25 


1000 
25 


7.-, 


25 

100 
25 


6203 


9165 

5672 

963 

80SS 

6575 

S104 

5994 


6131 

9024 
4636 
4758 
6202 
653(1 
8116 
4768 
5102 
9393 
9734 
7972 
8487 

8449 
6504 
61S9 


8603 

6894 
7864 
5201 


9781 
4486 
4  665 


5720 
5231 
8614 

7712 


6976 
4255 
7270 


o  u 


180 
166 
309 
21 
31 
313 
459 
220 
210 
427 
174 
261 
418 
467 
409 
199 
415 
127 
134 
206 
186 
247 
297 
311 
183 
176 
734 
ai7 
210 
194 
1 
473 
302 
499 
413 
443 
84 
99 
177 
348 
14 
325 
740 
399 


MOUNTAIN    PEAKS  AND    PASSES   OF   COLORADO. 
With  their  elevations  above  sea  level. 


ALTITUDE  OF   MOUNTAIN   PEAKS   OF   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 
RAMPART  RANGE. 


Height. 
14,147.. 


Name. 
l'ike's  Peak. 


County.  Nearest  Point. 

El  Paso Manitou. 


FRONT    RANGE. 
From  Lula  Pass  to  Canon  Citv  in  the  transverse  valley  of  the  Arkansas.    This  range  divides 
Grand  County  from  Boulder 'County,   passes  through  Gilpin  County,  Clear  Creek  County  and 
Park  County,'  ami  ends  in  Fremont  County. 

County.  Nearest  Point. 

Boulder Boulder. 

Boulder Sunset. 

Boulder Sunset. 

Gilpin Central  City. 

Gilpin Central  City. 

(iilpiu Central  City. 


Height.  Name. 

14,271 Long's  Peak 

13.173 Audubon 

13,520 Arapahoe  ... 

13.283 James  Peak 

13.133 Pern's  Peak 

12  873 Mount  Flora 


1 1  33c  Torrey's  Peak Clear  Creek Georgetown. 

1 4411        .  Gray's  Peak  Clear  Creek Georgetown. 

14'321   ....  Evans  Peak Clear  Creek Georgetown. 

14,340 M t.  Rosalie Clear  Creek Georgetown. 

12,446 Bison  Peak Park .' Fairplay. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE  271 


MEDICINE  BOW  RANGE. 

Is  due  northern  continuation  of  the  North  Range. 

?/i"oo'-  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

13,832 Haynes  Peak Larimer 

13,167 Clark's  Peak Larimer 

BLUE  RIVER  RANGE. 
Sometimes  called  Eagle  River  Mountains,  runs  ^parallel  with  the   Park   Range  throuirh 
Summit  County.    It  ends  in  the  western  part  of  Park  County. 

£«!<?#•         J^am/-U        „  County.  Nearest  Point. 

13,398 Mount  Powell Summit Dillon 

12,382 Red  Peak Summit Dillon' 

'  12,890  ...  Miles  Peak Summit Dillon 

13,200 Whale  Peak Park Breckenrid"e 

13.565 Mount  Guyot Summit Breckenridge' 

J3-800 Mount  Hamilton Summit Breckenridge'. 

13,835 Silver  Heel Park Como. 

PARK  RANGE. 

Begins  in  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state,  marking  the  boundary  lines  of  Routt  County 
and  Larimer  County,  and  ends  in  the  transverse  range  of  the  Arkansas  Mountains,  passing 
through  Eagle  County,  Summit  County,  Lake  County,  Park  County  and  Chaffee  County. 

ffy&Jh        jyamte-r7    ,    ,  County.  Nearest  Point. 

12,126 Mount  Zirkel Larimer 

14,269 Quandary Summit .' Breckenridge 

14,297 Lincoln Park Alma  g 

13.796..     .Arkansas Park..  "   Alma' 

13.961 Buckskin Park ......'.'.'.['.'.'. Alma 

14,185 Bross Park "  Alma' 

13,650 Evans(No.2) Park Alma 

14,008 Sherman Park Alma' 

13,750 Sheridan  (No.2) Park Fairnlav 

13,909 Horseshoe Park Fa  r   lav 

13,738 Ptarmigan Park Fair    av 

13,328  ....  Buffalo  Peak Park Fair  lav 

14,132 Goat's  Peak Park ..........'.'.'.'.'.  Fairplay! 

SAGUACHE  RANGE. 

Begins  in  Eagle  County  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Park  Range,  the  Arkansas  River  flowing 
between  them  in  the  southern  region.  It  traverses  Lake  and  Chaffee  Counties  and  ends  in  the 
Cochetopa  Hills,  the  central  part  of  the  Continental  Divide. 

¥£$£         ™am?-  r  ti     xj  ,    r.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

14.176 Mount  of  the  Holv  Cross Eagle Red  Cliff 

13,073 H omestake Eagle .'...'. Red  Cliff' 

H'ifi Mount  Massive Lake Leadville. 

14,436 Elbert Lake Leadville 

14.302 La  Plata  Peak Chaffee ".  Buena  Vista. 

lf,375 Harvard*? Chaffee Buena  Vista. 

14'JkZ Yale ...~*< Chaffee Buena  Vista. 

14,199 Prmcton.**. Chaffee Salida 

14.245 Antero Chaffee "! Sal'da 

14,239 Shavano Chaffee  "  Mavsv'ille 

14,055 Ouray Chaffee  ::::.'.'.'.'.';.'.'.';:.:.'.'.':.';;.'.'.'.':.'  MarshallPass. 

ELK  MOUNTAINS,  OR  ASPEN  GROUP. 
This  range  is  a  great  semicircle  of  mountains  in  Pitkin  County,  with  Aspen  iu  the  centre  and 
with  spurs  running  into  the  adjoining  county  of  Gunnison.  *^u 

mSw"         hSStak  °S^V-  Nearest  Point. 

l-s.SJ.i hopnsl'eak Pitkin Carhondale 

13.997 CapitolPeak Pitkin....         Asnen 

13,978 Snow  Mass Pitkin .'.'.'.'."".' As  en 

14,008 Maroon  Peak Pitkin  As   en 

13.8S5 Pyramid  I'eak     Pitfein  .... AsDen 

14.115 CastlePeak Pitkin........::... ASDen 

1J.327 White  Back  Gunnison "'  Crested  Rnttp 

13.113 Teocauipeak Gunnison ::::::::::::::::::  SSSb^S: 

ld.95h Gruzlj Pltkm IsDen 

13.350 Italian  Peak Gunnison .......".".'  Crested  Butte 

13,357 White  Rock Pitkin ""............  Aspen 

WEST  ELK  MOUNTAINS. 

fVlO*'          West"Flk  Peak                                       g^"*'  Nearest  ?°™1- 

io,H)4 west.fc.lk  I'eak Gunnison Gunnison. 

SANGRE  DE  CRISTO  RANGE. 
fbe;Vn11,i!fS,a,t«mUOrt!1Pr>npoinftwitl1Jhe  Al?ansas  Hills,  which  run  east  and  west,  and  with 
the  ContineiitaM hvi.le         r"n  southeast  to  the  northwest,  and  which  form  a  part  of 

N.  B.—  There  are  many  unnamed  peaks  above  13,000  feet  in  this  range. 
33ft....  jfeeak gSSt p^^ 


12.863 RitoAlto Custer.. Villi    ;ime 

13,600 Silesia Custer  it    V,  ,    ,,  ' 

13.447 Horn  Peak Custer \I   ff.t       g 

14.233....    Crestone Custer Mofftt 

14,041 Humboldt Custer Sler  Cliff 

14,48':  Sierra  Mm:  i  CrctilU  J     rl  in  I 

14-176 OldBaldy Costilla \\.\\\".\\\\"\\\V:::.\:W^' 

W,615 Grayback Costilla Blanco. 


272  OVER   THE  RANGE. 

CULEHA  RANGE. 

Is  a  continuation  or  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range. 
Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,079 Culeha  Peak Las  Animas Trinidad. 

13, fill Trinchera Lus  Animas Trinidad. 

13,718 Spanish  Peak Las  Animas Trinidad. 

THE  SAN  JUAN  MOUNTAINS. 

This  range  is  the  southern  part  of  the  Continental  Divide.  It  has  many  lateral  ranges,  like 
buttresses,  and  its  general  course  is  from  southeast  to  northwest,  where  it  joins  with  the 
Uncompahgre  Range  and  the  Cochetopa  Hills.  It  is  very'  little  known,  and  contains  many  high 
unnamed  mountains.  It  is  spread  over  Saguache  County,  Hinsdale  County  v southern  part), 
Archuleta  County,  Rio  Grande  County  and  Conejos  County. 
Htight.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,032 Stewart's  Peak  Saguache Lake  City. 

14,100 San  Luis  Peak Saguache Lake  City. 

13,131 Mesa  Peak Saguache Lake  City. 

12.840 Bristol  Head Hinsdale — 

14.092 Ked  Cloud Hinsdale  Lake  City. 

14,149 Handles  Peak Hinsdale Lake  City. 

13,400 Pole  Creek  Peak Hinsdale   Lake  City. 

12,506 SanJuauPeak Hinsdale 

13.154 Macomb's  Peak Mineral Wagon  Wheel  Gap. 

12,673 Bellevue  Peak Rio  Grande Del  Norte. 

13.081 DelNortePeak  Rio  Grande Del  Norte. 

13.347 Conejos   Rio  Grande Pagosa  Springs. 

12,824 Banded  Peak Archuleta Pagosa  Springs. 

14,065 Simpson's  Peak Rio  Grande DelNorte. 

NEEDLE  MOUNTAINS. 

A  series  of  short  ranges  on  the  west  side  of  the  Grand   Divide,  buttressing  the  San  Juan 
Mountains.    It  contains  many  high  isolated  peaks  named  and  unnamed. 
Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

12,305 Sheridan  Peak  (No.  1) La  Plata Durango. 

14,054 ,-Eolus La  Plata Durango. 

14,051 Needle  Peak La  Plata Durango. 

13.755 Mount  Oso La  Plata Durango. 

1 3,928 Pigeon's  Peak La  Plata Durango. 

14,055 Kio  Grande  Pyramid SanJuan Needleton. 

13,542 Mount  Kendall SanJuan Silverton. 

13,356 Mount  Cauby SanJuan Silverton. 

13.550 King  Solomon SanJuan Silverton. 

13.501 Sultan San  Juan Silverton. 

13,357 The  Hunchback SanJuan Durango. 

OURAY  MOUNTAINS. 

A  prolongation  of  the  San  Miguel  Mountains  to  the  north,  uniting  with  the  Uncompahgre 
Chain,  which  runs  from  west  to  east. 

Height.          Name.                                            County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,340 Mount  Sneffels Ouray Ouray. 

SAN  MIGUEL  MOUNTAINS. 

Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,075 Unnamed San  Miguel Telluride. 

14,160 Lizard  Head  San  Miguel Trout  Lake. 

14,309 Mount  Wilson Dolores Ophir. 

13502 Dolores  Peak Dolores Ophir 

12,703 Mount  Dolores Dolores Rico. 

13,890 Unnamed Dolores Rico. 

12,703 Mount  Freeman Dolores Rico. 

12,516 Mount  Elliott Dolores Rico. 

12,542 Anchor Dolores Rico. 

12,635 Lone  Cone San  Miguel Telluride. 

LA  PLATA  MOUNTAINS. 

Are  a  prolongation  south  of  the  San  Miguel  Range. 
Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

13,376 Hesperus Montezuma Dolores. 

13,456 Babcock La  Plata Durango. 

UNCOMPAHGRE  MOUNTAINS. 

This  range  is  short  and  runs  from  west  to  east.     It  contains  some  very  high  mountains, 
usually  at  right  angles  to  the  chain. 
Height.  Name.  County.  Nearest  Point. 

14,419 Uncompahgre Hinsdale Ouray. 

14,069 The  Wetterhorn Hinsdale Ouray. 


TO   THE  GOLDEN  GATE 


273 


MOUNTAIN   PASSES. 


Feet. 

Alpine  Pass 13,550 

Argentine  Pass 13,100 

Cochetopa  Pass 10,032 

Hayden  Pass 10.780 

Trout  Creek  Pass 9,346 

Berthoud  Pass 11,349 

Marshall  Pass 10.856 

Veta  Pass 9,39;* 


Feet. 

Poncha  Pass 8,945 

Tennessee  Pass 10,433 

Tarryall  Pass 12,176 

Breckenridge  Pass 9,490 

Cottonwood  Pass 13,500 

Fremont  Pass 11,540 

Mosquito  Pass 1 3,7i  10 

UtePass 11,200 


ELEVATION  OF  LAKES. 


Feet. 

Twin  Lakes 9,357 

Grand  Lake 8,153 

Green  Lakes 10,000 

Chicago  Lakes 11,500 

Evergreen  Lakee 10,500 


Feet. 

Seven  Lakes 1 1 ,806 

Palmer  Lake 7,238 

Cottonwood  Lake 7,700 

TroutLake 9,800 


ALTITUDES  OF  TOWNS  AND  CITIES. 

EVISED   SINCE    FIRST   EDITION   FROM    ENGINEER'S    MEASUREMENTS. 


Feet. 

Alamosa 7.546 

Animas  City 6.554 

Animas  Forks 11,200 

Antonito 7,888 

Aspen 7,875 

Buena  Vista  7,970 

Canon  City 5,344 

Castle  Rock 6,220 

Colorado  Springs 5,992 

Crested  Butte 8,875 

Creede 9,016 

Conejos 7,880 

Cottonwood  Springs 8.950 

Cuchara 5,943 

Cumbres 10,015 

Delta 4,983 

Del  Norte 7,880 

Denver 5,i96 

Durango 6,520 

El  Moro 5.879 

Garland 7,936 

Granite 8,945 

Grand  Junction 4,594 

Gunnison 7.680 

Glen  wood  Springs  5,758 

Howardsville 9,700 

Irwin 10.500 

Kokomo 10,614 

Lake  City 8,686 


Feet. 

La  Veta 7,024 

Leadville 10  200 

Los  Pinos 9,637 

Montrose  5  811 

Malta 9,580 

Mancos 7,008 

Manitou 6,318 

Ojo  Caliente 7,324 

Ouray. 7,721 

Ogden,  Utah  4,286 

Pagosa  Springs 7,108 

Pinos,  Chama  .Summit 9,902 

Poncha  Springs 7,480 

Palmer  Lake 7,238 

Pueblo 4,669 

RedCliff 8,615 

Ridgway 7,002 

Roiiinson 10  86 1 

Rosita 8,500 

Ruby  Camp 10,500 

Saguache 7,723 

Salt  Lake  City 4,228 

Silver  Cliff 7,816 

Silverton 9,224 

Salida 7,050 

Telluride 8.756 

Trimble  Springs 6,575 

Westcliffe 7,864 

Wagon  Wheel  Gap. 8,449 


PRONUNCIATION  OF  PROPER  NAMES. 


Acequia A-sa-kia 

Crested  Butte  Crested  Bute 

Costillia Costea 

Canon  Can-yon 

Cumbres Cum-breez 

Cuchara Cu-cha-ra 

Canejos Co-na-hos 

Chihuahua Che-wa-wa 

Huerfano Wa-far-no 

La  Junta La  Hun-ta 

La  Jara La  Hara 

La  Veta La  Va-ta 

M  anitou M  an-i- too 

Monero Mo-na-ro 

Navaj  o Na-va-ho 


Ojo  Caliente O-ho  Cal-1-en-te 

Ojo    o-ho 

Pueble  de  Taos  Pueblo-de-Tows 

Pinon Pin- von 

Saguache  Si-watch 

Sierra  Mojeda Sierra  Mo-ya-da 

Santa  Fe. San-ta  Fay 

San  Juan San  Wan 

San  Miguel San-me-gll 

Sapiuero Sapi-na-ro 

Tierra  Amarilla Tier  Ama-rea 

Trlnchera Trln-chara 

Vallejo Vall-a-hc 

Wahatoya Wa-ha-toy-jx 


274 


OVER    THE    RANGE 


COMPLETE  INDEX  TO  STATIONS  ON  THE  SOUTHERN 
PACIFIC    RAILROAD. 


Acampo 

Acton 

Aden 

Adonde... 

Afton 

Ager 

Agnews 

Alameda 

A I  am  it  os 

Albany 

Alcalde 

Alder  Greek 

Alexis 

A  III  am  lira 

Allla 

Allendale 

Alma 

Almaden 

Almond 

Alpine ... 

Alta 

Altamont 

Alvarado 

Alviso 

Amaranth  

Am.  Rvr  Bridg. 

Amity 

Anaheim 

Anderson 

Anita 

Annadel 

Antelope 

Antioch 

Applegate 

Aptos 

Araby 

Arbuckle 

Arcade 

Arena 

Argenta 

Armona 

Army  Point 

Ashland 

Athena 

Atlilone 

Atwater 

Auburn 

Aurora 

Aurant .... 

Avon 

Aztec  

Baden 

Bakersfield  — 

Bale 

Balfour 

Banning 

Banta 

Bardins  

Barlaws 

Barrett 

Barro 

Batavia 

Battle  Mount'n. 

Bay  Point 

Bealville 

Beaumont 

Beaverton 

Bello 

Belmont 

Benicia 

Ben  Lomond... 

Bennett 

Benson 

Beowawe 

Berenda 

Bernal 

Berryman 

Bethany 

Biggs  

Big  Trees 

Bishops 

Bituraa 

Blacks 

Bl'k  Butte  Suit. 


Terr'ty 


Cal... 

Cal... 

N.M. 

Ariz. 

N.M. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal . . . 

Cal... 

Or... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Ariz . 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Nev.. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or..  . 

Cal... 

Cal.  . 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Ariz.. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Utah. 

Cal... 

Cal.  . 

Cal... 

Or.... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Nev.. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Ariz.. 

Nev.. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Nev.. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 


120 
150 


100 

60 

7750 


3000 


700 
35 


170 

1500 

60 


50 

40 

600 

110 


225 

2000 

750 


urn 

700 


100 
'3  JO 


2000 


50 

20 

1700 

200 


200 
150 


30 
522 


300 
250 


202 
3200 


2000 
62 

85 

5606 
103 

1000 
250 


100 


w 


59 

2670 

4391 

212 

4207 

2349 

25 

20 

191 

210 

850 


280 


560 
348 

82 
282 
3607 
740 

15 


133 

432 
160 


162 

46 

2014 

102 

144 

139 

55 

144 

4547 

233 

11 

1898 


210 
153 

1 360 


12 

495 

39 

415 

287 

4239 

2317 

30 

48 


39 
245 

67 
4511 

10 
1793 
2560 


204 
31 
10 


3578 

4695 

256 

186 

10 

40 

98 

270 

5423 

12 

52 


-  o 
»*  a 


107.21 
427.1 
1237.9 
760.9 
1250 
387 

41 

11.13 

58 
692 
301.34 
109 
558.2 
490 
273.51 

71.22 

58 

63 
505.3 
417.3 
159 

55.97 

24 

38 
105.17 

93 
890 
508.9 
249 
195 

67.91 
104 

51.54 
136 
112 
736.6 
114.47 

98 
140.09 
486 
257.43 

34.86 
431 
164.57 
161.64 
144.28 
126 
745 
485 

39.15 
806  3 

12 
314.04 

68.53 
801 
569 

74.82 
115 
747 

16 

66.35 

65.15 
474 

42.24 
341.6 
562.8 


62.32 

25 

33.25 

77 

134 

1025.4 

507 

177.59 

4 

11.86 

76.71 
163 

74 
602 
502.7 

96.74 
345 


Blue  Canon 

Blue  Creek 

Boca 

Bolsa 

Bonneville 

Boyce's 

Borden 

Bosque , 

Boulder  Creek 

Bovine 

Bowie 

Bracks 

Bradley 

Brandon 

Brentwood. ... 

Brighton 

Brigham 

Brooks 

Brookside 

Browns 

Bryant . 

Buckeye 

Buckliorn 

Burbank 

Burnetts 

Burson 

Butler 

Byron 

Cabazon 

Cachise 

Cactus 

Cadanassa 

Callente 

Calistoga 

Campbell 

Cambray 

Cameron 

Camllos 

Cana 

Canby 

Canemat , 

Cannon , 

Cantara 

Capay 

C.  H.  Mills  .... 

Carbondale 

Carlin 

Carlton 

Carmenita 

Carnadero  

Carplnteria 

Casa  Grande.. 

Cascade 

Cashmere 

Castaic 

Castle 

Castle  Crag 

Castroville 

Cemetery 

Cedar  

Centerville 

Central  Point. 

Ceres  

Cerritos 

Charleston. 

Chemawa 

Chestnut 

Chlttendens... 

Chico 

Cholone , 

Chromlte 

Chualar , 

Cicero 

Cienega 

Cisco 

Citronia 

Clackamas 

Clarks 

Clawson 

Clements 

Cluro 

Clyde 

Coalinga 

Copper  Gap... 


a 

0 

State 

0 

or 

M 

Terr'ty 

3 

> 

Oh 

» 

Cal 

110 

4695 

Utah . . . 

4272 

Cal 

400 

5531 

Cal 

177 
4260 

Utah... 

Cal 

Cal 

388 

273 

1080 
470 

Cal 

300 

4277 

Ariz..  . 

100 

3759 

Cal 

Cal 

539 

Cal 

200 

80 

Cal 

500 

54 

Utah... 

1800 

4239 

Or 

35 

Cal 

Cal 

3929 

Cal 

Cal 

593 

Cal 

250 

558 

Cal 

189 

Cal 

30 

Cal... 

Cal 

100 

34 

Cal 

100 

1779 

4222 
395 

Cal..  .. 

Cal 

Cal 

50 

1290 

Cal 

850 

363 

Cal 

95 

N.  M... 

4224 

Cal 

3787 

Cal 

150 

733 

Cal 

200 

172 

Or 

100 

Or.... 

Cal 

92 

Cal 

Cal 

200 

Cal 

2676 
221 

Cal 

75 

Nev 

394 

4897 

Or 

125 

Cal 

74 
168 

Cal 

Cal 

300 

8 

Ariz  ... 

400 

1396 

Cal.  ... 

28 

6538 

Cal... 

Cal.  ... 

1004 

Cal 

37 

Cal 

1943 

Cal 

600 

17 

Cal 

92 
5974 

Cal 

300 

Or 

50 

Cal 

200 

93 

Cal...  . 

36 

Cal 

40 

Or 

Cal 

Cal... 

Cal 

6000 

193 

Cal... 

232 

Cal 

1561 
103 

Cal 

75 

Cal... 

90 
119 

Cal 

100 

Cal 

25 

5934 

Cal... 

Or 

150 

5263 
2250 

Cal 

4785 
153 

Cal 

Cal . . . 

665 
1759 

50 

as 


168 
792 
218 

89 
823 
108.29 
187.81 
859.5 

81 
699 
1089 
117.29 
196 
130 

62.70 
134.03 
816 
728 
546.6 
325 
129 
301 
468.5 
471.4 
123.70 
126.36 
212.95 

67.83 
574.9 
1054.5 
712.8 

97  47 
336.3 

72  79 

51 
1224.5 
3  0.9 
463.1 
198 
749 
756 

56.35 
330 

9337 
149 
133.22 
535 
875 
501.1 

83 
517.3 
913.7 
190 
108.77 
4543 

97.59 
317 
111) 

11 
620 

32 
450 
118.65 
498.5 

98.20 
724 
322 

91 
186 
152 
309 
129 
121.45 
490 
182 

64.34 
762 
264 
426 
115.30 
516 
119.20 
296.34 
133 


TO    THE    GOLDEN'    GATE. 


275 


INDEX   TO  STATIONS— Continued. 


STATIONS. 


Coburns 

Coin 

Coles 

Colestln 

Colfax 

Coif  red 

Colma 

Colorado 

Colusa  Junct... 

Colton 

Cometa 

Corapton 

Comstocks 

Coopers 

Copley  

Cordelia 

Corinne 

Cornelius 

Corning... 

Cornwall 

Corrallis 

Cosgrave 

Cotbrin 

Cottage  Grove.. 

Cottonwood 

Coyote 

Cranor 

Creston 

Creswell 

Crocketts 

Cross  Creek 

crowleys 

Cucamonga 

Cummings  

Curtis 

IKUilton 

Dathol 

Davis 

Decoto 

Deeth 

Delano 

Delavan 

Delhi 

Delta  

Del  Monte 

Deming 

Derry 

Desert 

Dillard 

Diamond 

Dilleys 

Dinuua 

Divide 

Dixon 

Domingues 

Dos  PaTmas 

Downey 

Dragoon  Sum'it 

Drains 

Drummond 

Drylyn 

Dugan 

Duunigan 

Dunsmuir 

Durham  

Dutch    Flat.... 

Dry  Camp 

East  Oakland.. 
East  Portland. 
E.  San  Gabriel. 

Eden  Vale 

Edgewood 

El  Casco 

El  Dorado 

ElkGrove 

Elkhorn 

Elko 

Ellis 

Elmira 

El  Modena 

Elmore 

El  Paso 

El  Verano 

El  wood 

Ely 

Emerald 


State 

or 
Terr'ty 


Cal.... 
Nev... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.  .. 
Ariz  .. 
Cal.... 
Cat.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cai.... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Utah . . 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Nev... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.  .. 
Cal.,.. 
Cal..  . 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Nev... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
N.  M.. 

Or 

Nev... 

Or 

Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Or  .... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.  .. 
Cal... 
Ariz.. 

Or 

Cal ... . 
Cal.... 
Cal  ... 
Cal.  .. 
Cal.  .. 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cai.... 
Cal.... 
Nev... 
Cal.... 
Cal.  .. 
Cal... 
Cal.... 
Texas. 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 


5 
2500 


800 
25 


25 
100 
500 
200 
350 

75 
1800 


300 
450 

20(1 


100 
100 


200 


500 
150 
100 
500 


20 


150 

40 

150 


1350 


1000 

4614 

300 


109 
350 

2(1(1 
500 


5300 

8011(1 


300 
301 


752 


350 

200 

15 


200 


W 


259 
4506 
2905 
3730 
2422 


171 


84 
965 
153 

76 


23 

600 

15 

4231 


277 
30 


4237 


421 
251 


12 

278 


952 


42 

408 

495 

53 

68 

5340 

313 

95 

121 

1138 

8 

4334 


4018 


66 

61 

253 

111 


396 


69 

2285 

161 

3595 


12 

53 

409 

180 

2955 
1874 


53 


5065 

76 

79 

242 

805 

3713 

"  93 


158 
462 
404 
411 
144 
778.2 

9 
730.5 
130.13 
539.7 
117.20 
493.7 
618 
113 
270 

45.89 
809 
857 
179.53 

49.89 
929 
393 
124 
6211 
212 

63 
698 

41.97 
635 

30 
234.79 
899 
524.5 
141 

91.03 
189.17 
287.94 

76.56 

27.42 
594 
281.84 
139.28 
133.19 
298 
124 
1198.5 
903 
287 
564 
146 
861 
236  25 
622 

68. 50 
496 
642.4 
494.9 
1044.5 
611 

62.11 
707.9 
132 
104.26 
324 
180 
157 
602.2 

9.30 
772 
492 

57 
355 
554.2 
143 
123.84 
107 
558 

69.59 

60.32 
518.8 
2 -(5 
1286.7 

54.81 
541.3 

81.19 
108.35 


STATIONS. 


Emigrant  Gap.. 

Esperanza 

Essex 

Estrella 

Eugene „ 

Ewings 

Exeter 

Fair  Grounds.. 

Fair  Oaks 

Farmiugton 

Felton 

Felton(old).... 

Fenelon 

Fernando ...... 

Filbert 

Fillmore 

Finnell 

Florence  

Florin 

Florison 

Flowing  Well.. 

Folsom 

Fortuna 

Forest  Grove.. 

Forest  Lake 

Fowler 

Flosden  

Fresno 

Frinks 

Froman 

Frultvale 

Fruto 

Fry 

Fulton  Wells... 

Gage 

Gait 

Gartney 

Gaston 

Gazelle 

Geneora 

Germantown... 

Gervais 

Gibson 

Gill  Bend 

uiliCity 

Gillespie 

Gilroy 

Girvan .... 

Girard 

Glamis 

Glenburn 

Glen  Ellen 

Gloster 

Glendale 

Glenwood 

Golconda 

Gold  Hill 

Gold  Run 

Goleta 

Goltra 

Goodyears 

Goshen 

Goshen 

Gonzales 

Granite  Point.. 

Grants  Pass 

Green-wood 

Greens 

Gregory 

Grenada 

Greystone 

Gridley 

Guadaloupe 

Guinda 

Hafed 

Haggin 

Halconera 

Halls 

Halleck 

Halsey 

Hanford 

Harrington 

Harrisburg 

Hartley 

Hay  wards 

Heaton 


State 

or 

Terr'ty 


Cal... 

Cal... 

Nev.. 

Ariz. 

Or... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal.. 

Nev.. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or.... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal..., 

Cal... 

Or.... 

Cal... 

Cal. ... 

Or.... 

Cal..., 

N.  M. 

Cal... 

Utah. 

Or.... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or.... 

Cal... 

Ariz. 

Ariz. 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Cai... 

Cal... 

Or... 

Cal... 

Nev.. 

Or  ... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or... 

Cal... 

Cal... 

Or.... 

Cal... 

Nev  . 

Or 

Cal... 

Or 

Or.... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Nev. . 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Nev.. 
Or  ... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or  ... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Ariz.. 


20 


2200 
24 


350 
200 


100 

200 

45 

75 

'200 
100 


'iob'6 


800 


150 


8000 


250 


100 

25 

700 


75 


100 
200 
300 


50 


2000 
200 


30 


100 
125 
100 


335 

65 

250 

400 


75 
30 
150 


1000 


1000 


75 

42 

350 

800 


500 


1500 


5221 


4936 

1521 

455 

120 


115 

275 

275 

6154 

1066 


475 

258 

151 

42 

5353 

5 


52 

308 


293 
260 


33 


124 

4488 

49 


2760 

99 

170 


1387 
737 
171 


193 


3301 


965 

890 

4392 


3222 
19 


11 
286 


127 
3918 


3462 


267 
97 


52 


5229 


242 
137 


139 

74 
1186 


00  CS 


174 

90.77 
232 
869 
649 
123 
258.55 
722 

31 

11.2 

74 

76 
635 
461 

80 
473.7 
184.88 
486.2 
129.98 
223 
671 
112 
226.45 
859 
110.50 
2  1 6.23 

35  39 
206.65 
653.3 
693 

10.72 
167.97 
695 
499.3 
1179- 
112.6 
681 
865 
363 
118.53 
157.81 
734 
306 
850.1 
744.7 
107.3 

80 
255 
355.3 
696.7 
306.99 

60.11 
388.3 
510 

66 
431 
459 
155 
537.1 
697 

39.01 
240.64 
643 
135 
333 
476 
162.94 
570 
409 
371 

61 
160 

56 
106.37 
256 

97 
159.37 

25 
581 
675 
253.84 
109.30 
667 

69.27 

21.08 
887.2 


276 


OVER  THE  RANGE 


INDEX  TO  STATIONS— Continued. 


STATIONS 


Henline 

Herbert 

Herndon 

Highland 

HiHtiirt 

Hillsboro 

Hillsdale 

Holborn 

Holden 

Holllster 

Homestead 

Honby 

Hooker 

Hopevale 

Hornbrook 

Hot  Springs.. 

Hubbard 

Humboldt 

Huron 

Igerna 

Independence.. 

Indio 

lone 

Iron  Point 

Irving 

Irvlnvllle 

Irvington 

Ivy 

Jaynes 

Jefferson 

Junction 

Junction  City.. 

Kaweah 

Keene  

Kelton 

Kennet 

Keyes  

Kimberlena... 

Kingsburg 

Kings  City 

Klrkwood 

Knights  Lndg.. 

Kolmar 

Kuraud 

L,ake 

Lake  View 

Lanark 

Lancaster 

Lander 

Lang 

La  Patera 

Latham 

Lathrop 

Latrobe 

Laurel 

Laurel  Creek... 

Lawrence 

Lawton 

Lebanon 

Le  Francs 

Leland 

Lemon 

Lerdo 

Ligurta 

Lemoore 

Lillis 

Lincoln 

Lisbon 

Live  Oak 

Livermore 

Livingston 

Lockford 

Lodi 

Logandale 

Lomo 

Loomis 

Long  Beach... 

Lorenzo 

Lordsburg 

Loray 

Los  Angeles 

Commerlal  st 
San  Pedro  st 
Washingtn  st 

Los  Gatos 

Los  Gulicos.... 


State 

or 

Terr'ty 


Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal.  . 

Or 

Cal.  ... 

Nev 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Nev 

Or 

Nev.... 
Cal..... 

Cal 

Or 

Cal 

Cal 

Nev... 

Or 

Or 

Cal 

Cal 

Ariz 

Or 

Cal 

Or 

Cal 

Cal 

Utah... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Utah.  . 

Cal 

Utah... 

Cal 

N.  M... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal..  .. 
al.... 

Or 

Cal.  ... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal...  . 

Cal 

Nev 

Or 

Cal 

Or 

Cal 

Cal 

Ariz.  .. 

Cal 

Cal... 

Cal 

N.  M... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal.  ... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal.  ... 
N.  M  .. 

Nev 

Cal 


Cal. 

Cal. 


100 


800 
2300 


100 
42 

250 
32 

150 


800 

'io'o'6 

""50 


500 


250 
250 
350 


450 
200 


350 


75 


50 
600 
150 
100 


300 


500 


40 


400 
"600 


200 
250 
50 
300 
700 


400 
750 
125 
300 


2000 
100 


H 


211 
922 

280 
12 


147 

5978 

82 

284 


1200 


116 
2154 
4072 


4236 

367 

3730 


20 

287 
4375 


75 
2241 
"163 


2705 

4222 

669 

97 


300 

332 

226 

45 


4215 
6245 
4165 

2351) 

2225 

1681 

4 


26 


910 

19 

64 

4043 


414 


220 
214 
167 
4278 
80 
485 
136 


55 

108 

72 

400 

41 

35 

4245 

5595 

293 

278 

258 

222 

400 


Sai 


263.44 

196.2 

196.8 

12 

59.21 


55 
629 
102.7 

94 

93 
446.3 
235 
534 
395 
298 
740 
374 
280.74 
347 
908 
611.7 
139.80 
442 
t  ;.v, 
699 

33.75 
493.4 
971.8 
791 
108 
662 
254.25 
349.9 
741 
277 
121.98 
296.97 
226.7 
163 
174.35 

95.13 
789 
156.77 
763 
198 
1259.7 
406.5 
141 
439.3 
538.6 
625 

82.82 
127 

64 

24 

44 
239 
701 

56 
496 
507.4 
301.67 
754.3 
261.84 
267.29 
119 
1149.6 
153 

47.88 
137.49 
111.31 
104.29 
145.30 
149 
115 
506.8 

18.43 
1138.9 
657 
482.2 
403  3 
484 
185.6 

55 

66.61 


STATIONS 


Los  Medanos... 
Los  Nietos... 
Lovelocks... 
Lwr  SodaSprgs 

Lucin 

Luzena 

Lynnly 

Lyman 

Lynnwood 

Machine  Shops 

Macy , 

Madera , 

Madison 

Madrone , 

Mail  Dock 

Haitland 

Malaga 

Malton 

Mammoth  T'nk 

Manlove 

Maple 

Marcus 

Maricopa 

Marion 

Martins 

Matlin 

Martinez   

Marysville.... 

Maxwell 

Mayfield 

Mayhew 

McAvoy 

McCloud 

McConnells  ... 

McCoy's 

McMinnville.. 

McPherson 

Meilford 

Melitta 

Melrose 

Menlo  Park... 

Merazo 

Merced 

Merlin 

Merritts 

Mescal 

Mesquite 

Middle  Creek. 

Midway 

Millers 

MillCity 

Millbrae 

Milpitas 

Mills 

Millsholm 

Milton 

Milwaukee  ... 

Minneola 

Mi'Unrn 

Miraflores  .... 

Mirage 

Modesto 

Moh'wk  Sum'it 

Mojave , 

Moleen 

Monson  

Montague  

Montalvo 

Monte 

Montecito.... 

Montello 

Monterey.... 
Montezuma... 
Monument.... 

Moors 

Morley 

Morocojo 

Morrano 

Mott 

Mound  City.. 
Mountain  View 

Mt.  View 

Mt.  Eden... 

Mowrys 

Muddy 

.Mullen 


State 

or 
Terr'ty 


Cal... 
Cal... 
Nev.. 
Cal... 
Utah. 
Ariz. 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or.  .. 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Ariz. 
Or... 
Cal... 
Utah. 
Cal.  . 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or.... 
Or... 
Cal... 
Or.... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or.... 
Cal... 
Ariz.. 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal.... 
Or..  . 
Nev.. 
Cal... 
Cal..., 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or  ... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Nev.. 
Cal... 
Ariz. 
Cal... 
Nev.. 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Nev.. 
Cal... 
Ariz  . 
Utah. 
Nev.. 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal . . . 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or.... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or  ... 
Cal... 


500 
100 


700 
200 


96 
300 


1500 

6000 

450 

900 


100 
100 
1800 
100 
500 


100 
400 


3000 


150 
35 

20 
100 
100 
500 


200 
125 


2500 
"lBO 


200 
102 


2300 
50 


200 
'400 
350 


W 


38 
156 
397 

2085 
4496 


94 

278 


342 
11 


258 
257 


319 

173 

1173 


14 

4597 
10 
66 
94 

28 


16 

3349 

49 


262 
1399 


171 


56 

4034 

294 

526 

356 


4226 

8 

23 


381 


242 

138 

4247 

91 

541 
2751 
4981 


2542 

89 

286 

15 

4991 

5 

1330 

4226 

6167 

722 

13 

50 

3156 

1055 

73 


65 


oe  A 
is  u 

_ 52 
500.4 
341 
320 
688 
1080.4 
265.45 
154.24 
492.1 
769 
119.46 
185.03 

87.67 

69 

34.13 
488.1 
211.32 
170.01 
683.1 

98 

69.94 
513.8 
892.2 
706 
113 
720 

35.64 
143 
134.04 

35 

99 

45.5 
335 
120.30 


517.6 
446 

70.41 

11.54 

32 

45.51 
151.73 
485 

81.61 
1016.8 
694.1 
263 

63.93 
698 
386 

17 

41.72 
102 
160.57 
121.7 
766 
215.65 
168 
510.9 
313 
114.34 
787 
381.7 
546 
240.75 
377 
495.3 
495.3 
525 
667 
125 
878.1 
756 
623 
282 
112 

99.84 
333 
543.1 

39 


20 
32 
670 
84.12 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


277 


INDEX  TO  STATIONS— Continued. 


STATIONS 

State 

or 

Terr'ty 

a 

2. 

3 

o. 

o 

Oh 

a 
o 

> 

5 

o 

-  V 

o  -2 

-  CJ 

*i  c 

8.2 

s«i 

42 

198.69 

552 

227 

491 
46.47 
38.31 

590 

108 

173 

61 

29 
139 
752 
452.3 
121 

STATIONS 

State 

or 
Terr'ty 

a 
o 

1 

o 
Ph 

3 
O 

> 

o 

3 

-a 

Cal 

95 
299 

5164 

150 

20 

79 

5295 

Railroad  Pass.. 

Ariz... 

Cal 

Cal 
Cal 
Cal 

Ariz.  .. 
Cal 

Or 

Cal 

"Too 

3500 

2500 

50 

1500 

15 

4394 
287 
938 
307 
551 

1865 
9 

1073.6 

Cal 

220 

Myrtle  Creek.. 

Or  . 
Cal 

50 

Raymond 

Red  Bluff 

Redding 

Red  Rock  

Redwood.. 

198.59 
225 

Nadeau 

Cal 

Cal.... 
Cal 

"6000 
150 

260 
945.8 

Napa  Junction. 

28 
231.05 

Cal  .. 

Reedville 

Cal 

Cal 

Cat 
Cal 

1500 
600 

124 

25 
2280 

1265 
956 

72 

4497 

487 

276 

2058 

300 

72 

249 

3728 

2315 

136 

Nev 

Or,. 
Cal 

Or.  .:.. 

4302 
1500 

""30 

244 

(S.P.C.  Ry).. 

Rice  Hill 

Richfield 

Riddles 

574 
182.80 

N.  E.  Mills 

546 

Or 

Cal 

Cal      ,. 
Cal 

300 
125 
350 

Rillito 

Rincon 

961.3 

Cal 

77 

Cal 
Cal 
N.  M 
Cal 

200 
800 

104.56 

Rogers 

Rosamond 

Roscoe  Spurs... 

Rose  Creek 

112 

Cal.... 
Or 

96 

882 
533 

30.2a 

142.94 
193 

86.62 

32.11 

31.05 
872 
499 
125.70 

19 

51.11 
7.70 
591 

58.49 
7 
1035.1 
833 
715.2 
730 
1097.2 
521 
513.8 
353 
757 
166.4 
521.3 
566 
463 
834.3 

99 
525 
329 
1007.1 
993 
759 
914 
216 
578 
118 
734 

97 

66 
106.70 
640 
439 
931.9 
721.5 

24.02 
4h6.3 
297.92 
468 
149 

41.80 

12.77 
515 
109  29 

32.17 
275.95 
722 
293.70 
217 
780 
216 
501.5 
1134.5 

1282.2 

395.5 

Or 

467 

Niles 

Cal 
Cal... 
Cal 
Cal 

Cal 

Or 

Cal 
Cal 
Cal 

150 

30 

200 

5500 
200 
200 

1000 

88 

96 

153 

58 

(      14 

\      12 

92 

155 
17 

114 
12 

160 

293 

4102 

4286 

355 

4721 

981 

127 

4181 

95 

259 

77 

5134 

Or 

1500 

487 
4320 

574 

403 

101 

346.4 

North  Vallejo ) 
N.  Val'jo  Wlif  \ 
North  Yamhill. 

Ruckles  

4588 

772 
557 

111.37 
19 

Rutherford.  .. 

Rye  Patch 

Sacramento 

Sacramento  — 

Cal.  ... 

Nev 

Cal 

Cal  , , 
Or.  ,., 
Cal.., 
Cal. 
Cal 

100 

65 

32000 

32000 

6000 

50 

3000 

183 

4257 

30 

30 

190 

72 

44 

263 

4177 

21 

60.38 
363 

Oak  Knoll 

Cal 

89.76 

Cal.,,, 

Or., 

Cal 

Cal 

Ariz.  .. 

Utah... 

Cal 

55000 

400 

25 

75 

65 

15000 

13967 
720 

107.58 

118 

636.7 

Ogden 

Ogilby 

San  Carlos 

Sanger  June.   . 

San  Andros 

San  Ardo 

San  Buenaven - 

Nev... 
Cal 

271 
26 

Utah... 

22(1.85 

Olga 

94 

Cal 

Cal 

Nev 

Or 
Cal 
Cal 

1800 

679 

55 

1400 
500 

3262 

Cal 

153 
452 

45 

15 

14 

409 

36 

80 
91 
86 
48 
396 

22 

616 

30 

1074 

3609 

134 

3 

75 

72 

15 

9 

18 

9 
92 

286 

40 

146 

nsy 

296 

11 

4223 

12 

311 

106 

Cal 

182 

Oregon  City.... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

3000 
50 

40(10110 
1000 

500.2 

San  Bruno 

San  Francisco.. 

San  Gabriel 

San    Joaquin 

San  Jose 

San  Jose 

San  Jose 

San  Leandro 

San  Lucas 

Salsbury 

San  Miguel 

San  Paolo 

Sanswain 

San  Simon 

Santa  Barbara. 

Santa  Clara 

Santa  Clara 

Santa  Cruz   (S. 

P.C.  Ry.) 

Santa     Cruz 

Beach  

Santa     Cruz 

Beach  (N.D.). 

Santa  Monica  .. 

Santa  Paula 

Sargents 

14 

Cal 

491.4 

726 

23 

4840 

'  '3536 
3010 

Cal 

Nev 

Cal..  .. 

50 
252 

90 

Cal 
Cal 
Cal 

Cal 

Cal.... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal.  ... 

25000 

25000 

25000 

1600 

200 

950 
400 
250 
500 

46 
47.74 

50 

15.73 

Paper  Mill..  .  . 

Parkers  

Paso  Robles 

Peko 

Or 

172 

Or 

Cal 

35 
600 

723 

5204 

626 

299 

100 

6184 

1616 

285 

10 

106 
21 

207 

Cal 

Utah.  , , 
Cal 

400 
100 

17.59 

507.1 

531.2 

1104.7 

Cal .     , 

Nev 

Or..  ... 

75 

40 

300 

Cal 

Cal.... 
Cal.     , 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

5000 
7500 
3000 
3000 

7000 

515.8 

527.6 

Phoenix 

44 

47 

Pilot  Knob.  ... 

Cal 

Cal 
Cal 

250 

80 

Piru 

Cal.... 
Nev... 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 

50 

2000 
600 

262 
4507 

353 

10 

857 

81 

Piute 

Cal 

121 

Placerville  , 

Cal 

120 

Cal 
Cal 
Cal  .... 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

2000 

7000 

900 

95 

5IKI  4 

Pomona. 

Cal 
Cal  

4200 

75  01 
483.7 

Port  Costa 

Cal 
Cal 
Or  , 
Cal.  . 

125 

250 

50000 

12 

417 

4905 

5590 

323 

1    4301 

87 
490  8 

449.8 

Sauterne 

Savanna 

Seacliff 

10707 

Proberta 

Promontory 

Cal 

Utah... 

Cal 

131 

Cal 
Cal 

150 

493  9 
509.7 

Utah... 

748 

Cal 

500 

Selby 

Cal 

300 
2200 

28.51 

221.78 

278 


OVER    THE    RANGE 


INDEX   TO   STATIONS— Continued. 


STATIONS 


Seminary  Park 

Sentinel 

Separ 

Sepulvecla 

Sesma 

Sespe 

Seven  Palms.... 

Shady  Run 

Shedds 

Shell  Mound... 

Shellville 

Sheridan 

Shingle  Springs 

Shoshone 

Short 

Si!sl>y 

Sims 

Siskiyou 

Sisson 

Siatonia 

Smithson 

Snowdon 

Soto 

Soda  Springs... 

Sobrante 

Sobre  Vista 

Soledad 

Soquel 

South  Side 

South  Vallejo... 
South  Los  Uuil- 

icos 

Spadra 

Spences 

Springfield..  . 

Stanwix 

Stege 

Steinman 

Steins  Pass... 

St.  Helena 

St.  Joseph 

Stockton 

Stockyards.  . 
Stone  House.. 
Strauss.. 
Strongs  Canon.. 

Studebaker 

Suisun 

Summit 

Sunol .. 

Surrey 

Surbon 

Suver's 

Sweet  Water ... 

Swingle 

Tacna  

Tagus  

Talbot 

Taison 

Tancred 

Tamarack 

Tangent 

Talent 

Tartron 

Taurusa 

Teal 

Tecoma 

Tehachapi 

Tehama  

Tehama 

Tejunga 

Templeton 

Tennent 

Terrace 

Texas  Hill 

Thenard 

The  Palms 

Thermal 

Thlsbe 

Thompson.. 

Tipton 

Toano 

Tokay., 

Toltec 

Tormey 

Tor  tut:a 


State 

or 
Terr'ty 


Oal 

Ariz... 
N.  M.. 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Or 

Cal.... 

Cai 

Cal 

Cal  .... 
Nev  .. 

Cal 

Cal 

Cal 

Or 

Cal.... 

Cal 

Cal.... 
Cal.  . . 

Cal 

Cal .... 
Cal.  .. 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal ... . 
Cal.... 


Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or.... 
Ariz.. 
Cal... 

Or 

N.  M. 
Cal... 
Or.... 


Or 

Cal 

Nev  .. 
N.  M.. 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Utah . . 

Or 

Ariz.  . 
Cal.... 
Ariz... 
Cal... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal .... 

Or 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 


Cal 

Nev... 

Cal.... 

Cal.  .. 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Utah.. 

Ariz... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Cal. 

Nev... 

Cal... 

Cal.... 

Nev... 

Cal.... 

Ariz.  . 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 


250 
150 


53 

'250 


200 
500 


250 
'200 


2500 
206'00 


1000 

50 

200 


60 

30)1 
500 
329 


500 


a 


11 

688 
4503 
461 
227 
450 
584 
4160 

"l'O 


116 


100 


300 
123 


4634 
459 
112 
1387 
'4130 
3555 

"975 

2675 

186 

6749 

23 


182 

53 

2350 

14 


705 
79 


565 

23 

3035 

4351 

254 


23 
17 

4422 
4083 
6312 

102 

11 

7017 

264 


1296 


325 
292 
314 


6200 


10 

4812 

3964 

222 

222 


■f. 


773 
327 
4548 
353 
31 
140 


4170 


267 
5975 

267 

1507 

12 

183 


12.25 
820.5 
1157.6 
473.6 
212 
476.6 
590.9 
164 
680 
7.96 

50.31 
127 
138 
487 
488.6 
169 
311 
414 
338 
302 
292 
382 
200 
192 

20.82 

5721 
143 
115 
431.9 

31.01 

64.51 
511.5 
125 

646 
815  9 

13.92 
421 
1119.4 

64.36 
880 

91.7 
875 
455 
1272.2 
203 
497.2 

49.5 
195 

36.60 
104.1 
786 
916 
902.1 

80.64 
770.8 
246.55 
183.48 
111.89 
101.6 
186 
685 
437 
113.25 
247.55 

44.19 
674 
36 1 . 
187.34 
213 
4H6.5 
222 

72 
709 
793.2 
503 
594.6 
618.8 
283 

42  06 
261  52 
650 
256.75 
922  8 

27 
677 


STATIONS 


Towles 

Tracy 

Traver 

Tremont 

TresPinos 

Trigo 

Tropico 

Truckee 

Tucson . 

Tulare 

Tulasco 

Tule 

Tunis 

Tunnel 

Turlock 

Turner 

Tustin 

Two  Miles  Sta. 

Tyler 

Udell 

Ullin 

Upper    Soda 

Springs 

Vacaville  

Vail 

Vallejo  June... 
Valley  Spring.. 

Vanarman 

Vandeu 

Vega 

Verdi 

Vervain 

Vina 

Violet 

Vinvale 

Vernalis 

Vincent 

Vista 

Volcano  Spr'gs. 

Wade 

Wadsworth 

Walkers 

Wallace 

Walters 

Walthall. 

Wanda 

Wapato 

Warfield 

Warm  Springs 

Warren 

Watsonville ... 

Waverly 

Webster 

Wells 

Wells  

West  Berkeley. 
West  Fork.. 
West  Glenciale. 
West  Oakland.. 
West  San  Lean 

dro , 

West   San  Lor 

enzo 

Westley 

Wheatland 

Whites 

White  Plains... 
White  Rock  .... 
White  Water.. 

Wliitneys 

Whittier 

Wild  wood 

Wilbur 

Willcox 

Williams 

Willows 

Willsburg 

Wilmington 

Wilmox 

Wilna 

Winnemucca.. 

Wi  listed 

Winthrop 

Winters 

Wolf  Creek.... 
Wood  bridge... 


Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 


Cal... 
Cal... 
Ariz.  , 
Cal..., 
Nev.., 
Nev. .. 
N.  M. 
Cal... 
Cal..., 
Or.... 
Cal . . . 
Nev.. 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Nev.. 


State 

or 

Terr'ty 


Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Ariz... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Ariz.  . 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Nev... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Cal.... 

Nev... 

Cal 

Cal.... 

Nev... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Cal.... 
Nev... 

Or 

Cal.... 

Or 

Cal.... 
Cal.... 


Cal... 


Cal... 
Cal... 

Cal... 
Or.... 
Nev.. 
Cal . . . 
Cal . . . 
Cal... 
Cal  .. 
Cal... 
Or.... 


Ariz.. 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or.... 
Cal... 
Ariz.. 
N.  M. 
Nev  . 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Cal... 
Or.... 
Cal... 


200 
600 


1500 

10000 

4000 

30 


250 
400 
500 


661 


150 


3000 


243 

20 

67u 


500 


100 
500 
450 
1600 
250 
950 


2000 


600 

15 

250 


W 


3704 
64 

292 
61 

514 


428 
5819 
2390 

282 
5484 
4313 
4422 
1401 

107 

"117 

4156 
244 


5000 
2360 

""l2 


78 


4895 
165 
213 


104 


3211 

4103 

225 

567 

4085 


195 

65 
294 


46 


23 

216 

26 

5628 

' ' "  J4 


20 

10 

""90 

'3894 


1126 
139 
239 


4164 

84 

136 


2664 
4557 
4333 
5723 
201 


TO    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 


279 


INDEX   TO   STATIONS-Continued. 


STATIONS 

State 

or 
Terr'ty 

3 

i5 
a 

a 
o 

Oh 

a 
o 

eg 

> 

w 

as 

o2 
£  S 

U  t- 

-  j- 

74.85 
741 
465 
348 

STATIONS 

State 

or 
Terr'ty 

c 
o 

a 

3 

P. 
O 

0H 

a 
o 

> 
s 

3 

_  o 
a  u 
o  2 

si 

g  • 

Wolfskill 

Cal  .... 

Youstville 

Yuba 

Cal 
Cal 
Cal.... 

Ariz 

Cal 

500 
600 

'"i2o'6 

107 

71 

5500 

140 

55  05 

Or 

300 
100 

"4008 

141 

Woodville 

178 
730  9 

Or 

57  91 

Cal 

Cal.,,, 
Cal.... 
Or,.  , 

4500 

150 

300 

40 

63 

990 

79 

85.95 
62 

90.86 
606 

Cal 
Cal ,     , 
N.  M... 

95 

4187 

70 

399 

Yolo 

Zuni 

1209.5 

COMPLETE    INDEX    TO    STATIONS    ON  THE    "NORTHERN 
DIVISION"   OF  THE  SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  COMPANY. 

CALIFORNIA. 


Stations. 

a 

o 

•tg 

a 

p. 
o 

a 
o 

5 

o 
W 

_  5 
a. 2 
o  « 

h  a 

**  eg 

.  Ui 

3a 

eg 
30 

Stations. 

a 
_o 

a 
p. 
o 
P4 

a 

0 

3 

> 

H 

© 
_  0 

02 
0  0 

**eg 
.  u 

5a 

eg 

200 
300 

250 

100 
600 
100 
100 
225 

2200 
350 

2000 
150 
150 
150 

900 
500 
200 

191 

348 

102 

39 

48 

31 

186 

177 

539 

168 

7 

232 

103 

259 

171 

23 

251 

180 

48 

193 

127 

267 

147 

284 

332 

64 

320 

342 

14 

28 

64 

8 

58 

63 

112 

12 

115 

25 

4 

M 

196 

183 

110 

152 

129 

158 

9 

113 

63 

57 

31 

80 

135 

61 

55 

94 

163 

44 

116 

69 

113 

35 

32 

17 

2500 

500 

500 
100 

800 

1800 
2600 

150 
50 

350000 

25000 

100 

950 

700 

3000 

7500 

100 

300 

350 

■'"566 

200 

2500 

5 

740 

13 

73 

95 

17 

293 

23 

723 

299 

9 

44 

153 

452 

15 

21 

12 

86 

396 

22 

616 

72 

18 

135 

182 

53 

79 

327 

773 

514 

23 

125 

119 

112 

39 

42 

19 

7 

99 

216 

66 

28 

118 

106 

182 

14 

26 

50 

172 

Gilroy 

21 

207 

47 

121 

87 

143 

115 

125 

72 

222 

101 

101 

INDEX 


OF    TOWNS    AND    POINTS    OF    INTEREST. 


PAGE. 

Acequia 17 

/Vita 66 

Alta    Branch 66 

Alamosa 99 

Alcazar,   The,   S.  F 173 

Alcatraz  and  Angel  Islands 175 

Alhambra 215 

Alviso 222 

Albany 249 

American    Fork 65 

Amargo 118 

American  River   Bridge 163 

Antelope  Springs 105 

Antonito 107 

Antioch 179 

Animas   Canon 122 

Anderson 243 

Anthracite 44 

Army  Point 165 

Arkansas    Valley 34 

Aspen 54 

Aspen  Branch 52 

Ashland 247 

Athlone 180 

Auburn 161 

Avalanche  Creek 52 

Aztec 122 

Azusn 200 

Barranca 108 

Baldwin    Theatre,  S.  F 173 

Banks,  S.  F 175 

Banta 179 

Bakersfield ._  183 

Bathing  Pool,  The 52 

Bathing,  Accommodations    for.  50 

Battle  Mountain 15T 

Benicia 165 

Bent  wood 179 

Bethany 179 

Berenda 180 

Bear  Creek  Falls 136 

Beowawe 151 

Bin«  ham 66 

Bingham  Junction 66 

Bingham  Branch 66 

Bijou  Theatre,  S.  F 173 

Big  Tree,  The 235 

Black  Canon  of  the  Gunnison..  86 

Bloomfield 122 

Book  Cliffs,  The 58 

Broadmoor . 23 

Brown's  Canon 41 

Brigham 146 

Browns 153 


PAGE. 

Bush  Street  Theatre,  S.  F 173 

Buena  Vista 41 

Burnham 16 

Byron 179 

Byron  Hot  Springs 179 

By  Rail  to  Los  Angeles 193 

Castle   Gate 59 

California  State  Mining  Bureau,  175 

Cameron 185 

Caliente 183 

Carpentiria 193 

Camulos 195 

Calumet  Branch 41 

Canon  of  the  Grand  River 48 

Carbondale 52 

Carlin  ...     150 

Carquinez,  Crossing  Straits   of  165 

Carson   Lake 154 

Cascade 160 

Cape   Horn 161 

Castle  Rock 17 

Castroville 227 

Calaveras  Grove,  The 235 

Carlisle  Springs 31 

Canon  City 34 

Cedar  Divide 90 

Cedar  Pass 149 

ChippetaFall 86 

Chama 11S 

Chinese  Theatre,  S.  F 173 

Chico 240 

Chica  Vecino 241 

Cheyenne  Mountain 23 

Cimarron 88 

Cimarron  Canon 88 

Cliff  Dwellings 126 

Cliff  House 16S 

Claremont 200 

Climate,  The 209 

Cairo 151 

Climate  of  Puget  Sound,  The__  259 
Climb'g  Sierra  Navada  R'ge  155-159 

Clark's  Magnetic  Spring 31 

Coal   Basin 54 

Corinne 146 

Colfax 161 

Colorado  Springs 21 

Colorado  City 23 

Coal  Creek.  _. 34 

Coal  Creek  Branch 33 

Colorado  Desert,  The 57 

Coal  Branch 60 

Comanche  Canon 109 

CoafMines 179 


280 


INDEX. 


281 


PAGE. 

Compton 189 

Colton ---  201 

Coronado 207 

Cucamonga. 209 

Cottonwood  Springs   ._ 41 

Crane's  Park 46 

Creede 105 

Creede  Branch 99 

Crested  Butte  . 82 

Crested  Butte  Branch 82 

Crystal 54 

Cnpple  Creek 33 

Currecanti  Needle 88 

Cuchara  Junction 95 

Cumbres. 118 

Davis. 164 

Dallas .--  139 

Denver 13-15 

Delta 92 

Del  Norte 101 

Descending  to  the  Desert 185 

Desert 154 

Del  Monte -_.  227 

Dillon 144 

Divide 249 

Dolores 130 

Dolores  Canon 130 

Doubling  on  our  track 177 

Donner  Lake 159 

Douglass  . 17 

Downward  to  Dillon 144 

Durango 120 

Duarte 200 

Dutch  Flat 160 

Eastern  Railway  Lines,  S.  F_   .  175 

East  Riverside 201 

Eagle  River  Canon 47 

El  Moro 93 

Elmira 16^ 

Elk  Park 124 

Elk  Mountain  Railway 52 

Elko 150 

Embudo in 

Emigrant  Gap 160 

Espanola m 

Espanola  to  Santa  Fe 112 

Eugene 249 

Express  Office,  S.  F 17s 

Extension  of  D.  &  R.  G.  R.  R._  52 

Farmington 122 

Fair  Oaks. 219 

Fertile  Valleys 194 

Fertile  Vallev,  A.. 201 

Florence  &  Cripple  Creek  R.  R  32 

Florence 32,  189 

Fort  Dushane 59 

Fort  Logan 17 

Fountain 29 

Fruita 56 

Fresno 180 

Fremont  Pass 142 

Garland 97 


PAGE. 

Garfield  Memorial 11S 

Geological  Features 145 

Glenwood  Springs 49 

Glen  Park 19 

Golden  Gate  Park,  S.  F 168-173 

Goose  Creek,  The 84 

Goshen  Division,  The 182 

Gosben 182 

Golconda 151 

Grape  Creek    Canon 36 

Grand  Junction 56 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado. .      59 

Grand  Valley 56 

Great  Salt  Lake 70 

Granite 43 

Gravelly  Ford 151 

Green  River 58 

Gunnison 82 

Hack  Fare,  S.  F. 175 

Harbor,  A  Magnificent 261 

Helper 59 

Historic  Ground 160 

Hot  Spring 34,  78,   154 

Hotel  del  Monte,  The 229 

Humboldt 153 

Humboldt  Lake 154 

Tgnacio 120 

Independence  Lake 159 

Irrigation  in  the  Artesian  Belt-   183 

Jacksonville 247 

Jordan  River .     66 

Junction 163 

King's  River 182 

Kingsburg 182 

Kelton    147 

Kyune .    60 

Lake  City 86 

Lake  City  Branch 84 

Lake  Fork  Canon 84 

La  Veta 95 

La  Jara 106 

Lathrop 179 

Lamanda  Park 198 

Lake  Elsinore 203 

Lake  Region,  The 154 

Lake  Tahoe 157 

Lehi 66 

Leland  Stanford  Jr.,  University  222 

Leadville 44 

Lick  Observatory,  The 225 

Lincoln 237 

Littleton 17 

Lizard  Head  Pass 130 

Lower  Crossing 59 

Los  Pinos  Valley 114 

Los  Angeles 186 

Los  Angeles  to  Santa    Barbara.   189 

Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego 196 

Lordsburg 200 

Los  Angeles,  Returning  to 209 

Lost  Canon 130 

Long  Beach 218 


282 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Los  Gatos 225 

Marshall   Pass 80 

Marshall  Pass  Station 80 

Manassa 107 

Martinez 177 

Madera 180 

Markets,  S.  F r 175 

Magnificent  Scenery 122 

Marvsville 237 

Manufacturing 254 

Mancoe 128 

Manitou 23"27 

Mears  Junction 78 

Merchants   Exchange,  S.  F 175 

Merced 180 

Menlo  Park 221 

Mission  Dolores,  The,  S.  F 172 

Milbrae 219 

Minturn 47 

Mirage 153 

Monarch   Branch 76 

Montrose 92 

Monte  Vista 100 

Modesto 180 

Mojave   Desert,  The ,. 185 

Mojave 185 

Montalvo 194 

Monrovia ... 200 

Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross 46,  142 

Moors 149 

Monterey 231 

Modern   Improvements 253 

Monument 19,  147 

Monument  Park 19 

Murietta 203 

Mud  Lake 154 

Muir's  Peak 245 

National  Citv 206 

Newhall  .__. 186 

Nevada  Desert,  The 153 

Newcastle 56,  161 

Oakland  Pier 165 

Oakland 177 

Ocean  Side 203 

Ojo  Caliente 109 

Old  Mission,  The...    193 

Ontario 209 

Ophir  Loop 132 

"Orpheum"  Opera   House,  S.  F.  173 

Ortega 193 

Oreana 153 

Oroville 239 

Oregon  City 250 

Ouray 137 

Ouray  to  Montrose 139 

Overland  Park 16 

Palmer  Lake 17 

Parnassus  Springs 31 

Parkdale 39 

Palmilla 107 

Pagosa  Springs 11S 

Pacific  Slope,  The 120 


PAGE. 

Panorama  Building,  S.  F 173 

Pasadena 196 

Palisades  of  the  Humboldt 150 

Palisade 150 

Pacific  Grove 231 

Penny's  Hot  Springs 54 

Perry  Park 17 

Petersburg 16 

Phantom  Curve 114 

Pinole 165 

Picturesque  Surroundings 254 

Pike's  Peak 27 

Pleasant  Valley  Junction 60 

Placer 97 

Plains  Region,  The 163 

Poncha 76 

Poncha  Pass 78 

Poncha  Springs 76 

Port  Costa 165 

Port  Los  Angeles 217 

Post  Office,  S.  F 175 

Point  Fermin 190 

Pomona 212 

Portland 250 

Price 59 

Provo 64 

Presidio  Reservation,  S.  F 175 

Prospect 54 

Promontory 146 

Pueblo  of  San  Juan 1 1 1 

Pueblo  de  Taos 112 

Pueblo  of  Santa  Clara 112 

Pueblo 29 

Pyramid  Lake 154 

Raymond 196 

Red  Narrows 60 

Redwood 221 

Red  Cliff  Canon 47 

Red  Cliff 47 

Reno 15S 

Red  Bluff .   241 

Redding 244 

Rico 130 

Ridgwav 132,   i39 

Rifle. ..I 56 

Riverside 203 

Royal  Gorge 39 

Roseville  . 207 

Robinson's  Lake 54 

Rocklin 161 

Rogue  River  Valley - —   247 

Roseburg 249 

Rye  Patch 153 

Salida.. 40 

San  Luis  Valley  Branch 78 

Sapinerp 84 

Saltair 73 

Salt  Lake  City 66 

Salt  Lake  to  Ogden 74 

San  Luis  Park 97 

Santa  Cruz ill,  225 

Santa  Fe_. -- ---    "3 


INDEX. 


283 


PAGE. 

Sacramento 163 

San  Francisco 167 

San  Francisco  Bay 169 

San  Joaquin  Valley,  The ...   179 

San  Fernando  Tunnel 186 

San  Fernando 186 

San  Pedro 189 

Santa  Barbara 190 

San  Pedro  to  Santa  Barbara 190 

San  Clemeth  Island 190 

Santa  Catalina  Island 190 

San    Buenaventura 193 

Santa  Paula 195 

Saticoy   195 

Saugus 196 

San  Gabriel  Valley,  The 199 

San   Bernardino 200 

San   Diego 205 

San  Diego  Bay 206 

San  Gabriel 215 

Santa   Monica 215 

San  Pete  Valley  Branch,  The__     60 

San  Mateo 219 

San  Bruno 219 

San  Francisco  to  Monterey 219 

Santa  Clara .____.  222 

San  Jose 222 

Salem 249 

Scenic    Attraction 249 

Seal  Rocks 168 

Selma 182 

Seattle 263 

Seattle,  Advantages  of 264 

Seattle,  Beauty  of  the  City 266 

Sedalia 17 

Shasta 24s 

Silver  Cliff  Branch 36 

Sierra    Blanca 97 

Sierra  Madre  Villa 199 

Silverton 124 

Sierra  Nevada  Range,  The.  155,  159 

Siskiyou    Station 247 

Sixteenth    Street,  Oakland 165 

Soldier   Summit 60 

Southward  Bound 177 

South   Pasadena 196 

South  Riverside 201 

Source  of  the  Arkansas 142 

Soda    Springs 160,  227 

Spanish    Fork 62 

Spanish  Fork  Canon 61 

Springville 62 

Spanish    Peaks 93 

Straits  of  Carquinez 165 

Stock    Exchange,  S.  F 175 

Street  Car  Fares,  S.  F 175 

Stage  Ride,  a    Romantic 136 

State   Line,  The 247 

Sutro  Heights,  S.  F 175 

Summit 160 

Sweetwater  Dam,  The 209 

Tacoma 255 


PAGE. 

Tehachapi    Pass 185 

Tehachapi  Summit 185 

Telluride 132 

Tennessee  Pass 44 

Tehama 241 

Terminal    and    Shipping    Facil- 
ities    261 

Tea  Trade  with  the  Orient 263 

Thistle  Junction 60 

Tintic  Branch 62 

Tivoli  Opera  House,  S.  F 173 

Tipton 183 

Tomichi  Meadows 82 

Toltec  Gorge 116 

Towns  in  the  Desert 149 

Toano 149 

Trinidad ._     93 

Trinidad  Branch 93 

Trout      Fishing     in     the      Rio 

Grande 105 

Trout  Lake 132 

Tracy 179 

Traver 182 

Trimble  Hot  Springs 122 

Truckee 155 

Trade    with    S.    America     and 

Mexico 259 

Trade  with  the  Middle  West...  261 

Tulare 183 

Tulare  County,  Resources  of..   1S2 

Twelve  Mile  Canon 150 

Twin  Lakes 43 

Umpqua,  Valley  of  the 249 

United  States  Mint,  S.  F. 175 

Utah  Valley 61 

Utah  Lakel 65 

Vallejo  Junction 165 

Valley  of  the  Eagle 47 

Vance  Junction 132 

Valley  of  the  Humboldt 150 

Valley  Region,  The 151 

Veta  Pass 95 

Villa  Grove 78 

Waunita  Hot  Springs,  The 82 

Walsenburg 95 

Wagon  Wheel  Gap 101 

Wadsworth 154 

Walker's  Lake IS4 

West  Cliff 36 

Wellsville  Hot  Springs 39 

Webster 164 

Wells 149 

Webber  Lake 159 

Wheatland 237 

Wilson's  College 189 

Wildomar 203 

Winnemucca -   151 

Winnemucca  Lake 154 

Wild  Scenery 244 

Wolhurst 17 

Yosemite 233 

Yuba  River,  The 237 


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